Steward II
- 10,598
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- Dave
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- Addington
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Drawers can be cheap or certainly get up there in price, just all depends on your budget and need
Tacoma Overland Drawer 2.0 Kitchen project
- Thread starter PapaDave
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Expedition Master I
- 11,455
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- Michael
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- Lee
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Check out Boss Strong Box, I have there drawer system. It’s super strong, only weighs 115 lbs and cost is under $1,000.00
Expedition Master I
- 11,455
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Lee
- Member #
13728
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KM6YKV
- Service Branch
- Army & Marine Corps
Pathfinder I
Can you please message to confirm the overall length of the surface? With the gate closed.
Steward II
- 10,598
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- Dave
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- Addington
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Yesterday I got my wiring done on the drawer. I have 3 switches which control the lights and power for the sink. The main power switch is set up at the end of the drawer and it is illuminated all the time in the truck. That way at night I can see where the switch is as it turns on the interior drawer lights and ground lighting underneath. When the drawer is open to expose the sink and burner there are 2 more switches accessible. One by the sink controls the power for the sink pump, it doesn’t turn on the pump as that is actuated by the sink handle. The third switch is by the burners and that controls the light that specifically illuminates the cooking surface. I hate cooking by flashlight, I know 1st world problems. Those two switches illuminate blue when switched on so it’s easy to make sure I don’t leave the sink pump on. This sink/burner set came with a water container and pump which I tested the duration and it gives me 6:30 minutes of continual water, not bad.
I still need to add the rubberized drawer liners which will cover the wires inside the drawers.
I still need to add the rubberized drawer liners which will cover the wires inside the drawers.
Influencer I
Steward II
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- Addington
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Water is working now, better photo of the illuminated switch, and the drawer liners are in. They are a little bumpy as they hide the wires for the LED’s underneath, but soon there will be so much stuff in the drawer you won’t be able to tell.
Steward II
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Here is my drawer loaded up getting prepped for my trip this weekend to Bodie Ghost Town in the Sierras of California :)
Steward II
- 10,598
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- Dave
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Out on the trail it has worked great! It really shortens my set up and break down time significantly. Overkill? You betcha! Useful, 100% so. 
Ok, now I think you are just bragging......
Looks really good.
Looks really good.
Advocate III
Steward II
- 10,598
- First Name
- Dave
- Last Name
- Addington
- Member #
10123
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KN6BKH
Steward II
- 10,598
- First Name
- Dave
- Last Name
- Addington
- Member #
10123
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KN6BKH
So the Dometic 9722 sink/burner combo I purchased off eBay came as a bundled set that included hoses, sink, tap, faucet and pump. It’s a Comet submersible pump that I would say is pretty quiet. I can barely hear it when my drawer is extended and running the sink. It works great
Enthusiast III
Just saw one of these pics on IG had had to find the thread. I think of myself as pretty handy but this is impressive. It's obvious how much forethought and planning went into version 2.0. And the execution sure looks flawless to me.
I'd love to get my kitchen out of aluboxes. Total pain to load and unload now that my fridge is in place. But then I wouldn't be able to access the back couple feet of my long bed. And to top it off my bed is open under my mid height bedrack and rtt. Picture below for clarification. Im kinda thinking if I accept the additional weight of hdpe, I could construct the sides with that too and be almost waterproof. Since you've just been through this, any thoughts you don't mind sharing?
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Steward II
- 10,598
- First Name
- Dave
- Last Name
- Addington
- Member #
10123
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KN6BKH
T
1/4” HDPE is heavier than 3/16” ply, but like you said weather resistant. Water pooling on top would be my concern in the elements, especially where the panel slots into the extrusion. However you could design your kitchen where the top sections lie completely flat on top of the whole box so that water would simply run off the sides. My coffee table lift hinges place the top within the 4 sides of the top of the drawer like this photo shows. I used standard door weather stripping to make the seal, and it slipped right into the extrusion slot. My design is under a cover and would leak in your application.
If your tops came down on top you’d solve that issue. One thing to consider with extrusion vs wood is you have to construct hard points for hinges and such, it took awhile but I was able to tap the edge and add 1/2” square tube to overcome this. If the box is wood you just simply screw your hinge wherever you want it.
Because you don’t have a cover you can go higher in your design as well, which gives more options for space and utility. The 80/20 site, under the panel section, has these rubber strips that are meant to keep panels from rattling but they might serve to help keep water out as well as they slide in between the panel and the extrusion slot for a tight fit.
Hope that helps a little
Thats an interesting question. Btw thanks for your feedback, it was a ton of thought and work and I’m happy with how it came out.
1/4” HDPE is heavier than 3/16” ply, but like you said weather resistant. Water pooling on top would be my concern in the elements, especially where the panel slots into the extrusion. However you could design your kitchen where the top sections lie completely flat on top of the whole box so that water would simply run off the sides. My coffee table lift hinges place the top within the 4 sides of the top of the drawer like this photo shows. I used standard door weather stripping to make the seal, and it slipped right into the extrusion slot. My design is under a cover and would leak in your application.
If your tops came down on top you’d solve that issue. One thing to consider with extrusion vs wood is you have to construct hard points for hinges and such, it took awhile but I was able to tap the edge and add 1/2” square tube to overcome this. If the box is wood you just simply screw your hinge wherever you want it.
Because you don’t have a cover you can go higher in your design as well, which gives more options for space and utility. The 80/20 site, under the panel section, has these rubber strips that are meant to keep panels from rattling but they might serve to help keep water out as well as they slide in between the panel and the extrusion slot for a tight fit.
Hope that helps a little
Enthusiast III
Thanks so much for such a detailed response. And quick! I was thinking about the water run-off too, especially on the side that will be exposed because it wouldn't be under the rtt. I'm not too concerned about the extra weight of the hdpe, it's worth the trade for weather resistance. And my spring pack has been upgraded to carry 500lbs more than the stock pack. Still budget weight but have more wiggle room. I also am considering getting shortbed sides for the bedrack which would give me access to the front of the bed from the sides, if I shift the whole rack and rtt towards the tailgate. But don't love that idea either. Regardless, food for thought. Thanks again.
Off-Road Ranger I
Just saw the walk around on YouTube, beautiful work. Couple of questions? Where did you get the long slides you mounted it all to? And does it need a brace at the end when extended?
Steward II
- 10,598
- First Name
- Dave
- Last Name
- Addington
- Member #
10123
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KN6BKH
The sliders came from cabinetparts.com. They are 56” locking slides for my application. When extended it doesn’t need an additional leg as the sliders are rated for 500lbs. Thanks!
