What Did You Do With Your Rig Today?

Replaced the fan and fan clutch. Paid a little under $170 after tax/shipping and all through Amazon for OEM parts. The local shop quoted me for $600 on my last inspection when they told me I needed it done, said it would be about $200 for parts and taxes, $400 for labor. I asked why so much for labor and they told me they'd have to take the radiator out, and in order to do that they'd have to remove grill and bumper. I told them that wasn't necessary cause I had just replaced the radiator that same month without taking anything off but the hoses and fan shroud, they insisted that was the only way... A quick search on youtube to see if anyone had replaced the fan clutch without pulling the radiator and I found 3 different videos so off we went. Took me about an hour to complete just cause it was a pain to break the torque on the pulley bolts, couldn't get a socket in so had to do it with a wrench and the bottom bolt just didn't have much room to work with.
 
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JoelIII said:
Replaced the fan and fan clutch. Paid a little under $170 after tax/shipping and all through Amazon for OEM parts. The local shop quoted me for $600 on my last inspection when they told me I needed it done, said it would be about $200 for parts and taxes, $400 for labor. I asked why so much for labor and they told me they'd have to take the radiator out, and in order to do that they'd have to remove grill and bumper. I told them that wasn't necessary cause I had just replaced the radiator that same month without taking anything off but the hoses and fan shroud, they insisted that was the only way... A quick search on youtube to see if anyone had replaced the fan clutch without pulling the radiator and I found 3 different videos so off we went. Took me about an hour to complete just cause it was a pain to break the torque on the pulley bolts, couldn't get a socket in so had to do it with a wrench and the bottom bolt just didn't have much room to work with.
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Typical dealer. Either the manual is telling them they need to do that or theyre trying to pull one on you. They know the shortcuts too but if book says they need to do it Theyll charge you for it

Local dealer told me rhey wanted 1500 to do a rear main seal on a 4.0L XJ. Claimed they had to drop the transmission. Even the FSM doesnt require transmission removal. They lost a customer that day.
 
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Tackled Strawberry Pass Trail today. I was very happy with how the truck performed in general. The tires let me down twice while perched on rocks which caused the truck to slide way off line and smash down on rocks which scratched the driveshaft and rear diff on one occassion. If not for those 2 sliding incidents I'd be thrilled with how well they did. Grip everywhere else was outstanding for an AT and they got pretty abused in the chunky rocks. The poor Tyger side steps are still hanging on despite more than a couple belly slides across large boulders. :) It was a good day spent with buddies in their very lightly modded Range Rover and 4Runner.

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tjZ06 said:
Interesting to know, I haven't noticed it on my Silverado (not sure if 3/4 tons also have the issue) and it's been offroad a lot. I do have sort of a clunk I get now and again. I've had it at a great Chevy service department (JCWages you might remember "Richie Rich" who runs Abel Chevrolet's parts and service department, for everybody else he's an avid enthusiast who has won Optima's Ultimate Street Car challenge a few times, but is also an outdoorsman and snowmobiler and stuff, if you have a GM anywhere near Rio Vista, CA and need service I highly, HIGHLY, HIIIIIIIIIGHLY recommend Rich and Abel) and apparently it's semi-common and just the torsion bars shifting a bit in their pockets. The only real fix would be a coil-over conversion, which I'm not up for.

I might have to give that link a closer look though.

-TJ
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A couple years go, on my previous truck, I had the "Rattle" problem under the dash of my '06 Silverado 2500HD. Tried the grease fix, but it was only short-term. After a couple months, the rattle came back with a vengeance. It was driving me crazy. I considered trading the truck to be rid of the problem.
Later, the #4 glow-plug went out. I had to remove the telescoping(intermediate) steering shaft to be able to remove and replace the glow plug. I found the telescoping shaft was seized(would not move in & out when the body flexed). This put excessive pressure on the steering column bushing and caused extreme wear. The primary shaft would move up & down; and cause the rattle(slight knock). I replaced the telescoping shaft and installed a new steering column bushing. It was like day & night.
 
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Rebalanced my back wheels. Shop neglected to remove old stickon weights when tires were installed and also used 3 different types of wheel weights for my aluminum wheels. Rebalanced using my bubble balancer.

Also changed rear diff fluid since its about 250 miles overdue
 
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eagle_A40 said:
A couple years go, on my previous truck, I had the "Rattle" problem under the dash of my '06 Silverado 2500HD. Tried the grease fix, but it was only short-term. After a couple months, the rattle came back with a vengeance. It was driving me crazy. I considered trading the truck to be rid of the problem.
Later, the #4 glow-plug went out. I had to remove the telescoping(intermediate) steering shaft to be able to remove and replace the glow plug. I found the telescoping shaft was seized(would not move in & out when the body flexed). This put excessive pressure on the steering column bushing and caused extreme wear. The primary shaft would move up & down; and cause the rattle(slight knock). I replaced the telescoping shaft and installed a new steering column bushing. It was like day & night.
Click to expand...

Great info, thanks!

-TJ
 
Those look like the same.ones scepter uses on their light blue 5 gallon water cans.
 
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