Trailer park brake solved with pictures

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smritte

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Ontario California
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Scott
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SMR
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I decided to make this a separate post because of the trouble I had researching park brakes. I know people have successfully hooked them up but all I found after months of research was people asking about it, others trying things but never saying if it worked. Odds are the info is buried in someone’s build thread.

So here we go.

Handle. I chose an Orscheln Lever, Part number 02182700. The design is called "Over Center". I found it for $19.00 on e-bay. The price normally runs from $30-$60.

Cables. Control Cables inc. Parking Brake Cables | OEM replacement cables | Street Rod Parking Cables (562) 949-0455. These people rock. $100 shipped. Trying to piece this together from E-Trailer I was looking at almost $300. The cables would have been cut to fit and I would have had to figure out how to attach them to my backing plates.

They will ask you a ton of questions. I took a length of welding cable and draped it around to get my lengths. My backing plate tabs have a 9/16 hole. This seems to be standard. My dexter axle has a lever hanging down, 4” from the holder. They have all the parts no matter what configuration you have. I Ordered them Thursday night as they were closing and had them on Tuesday.

Now for the pictures


clevis end.jpg

Cable end with clevis. The housing has a couple of slots machined into it. Its held in place with an E-Clip. My tab was 1/8 inch thick. If they were 1/4 i would use the outer ring for the clip.

Equilizer.jpg
Equalizer and adjuster.

clevis in hadle.jpg
Looking down into the handle. You can see how the clevis fits perfectly over the draw bar.

Handle.jpg
Handle mounted in the unlock position. The top of the handle threads up or down. This is how you adjust how far the handle pulls the cable.

Backing plate.jpg
Mounting tab and lever on the backing plate.

under routing.jpg
Here is a poor view underneath. The cables are routed to when the axle moves, the cables won't bind or pull on the brake. You take the slack out of the cable at the equalizer then adjust the handle for the pull distance. After adjusting, I made sure the levers on the brakes went back completely.

The only things I had to make were the cable mount tab's under the body and in the handle. They were all 9/16 holes. They Had mounts at Control Cables but I didn't want to pay for nice stainless pieces.
 

Road

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I decided to make this a separate post because of the trouble I had researching park brakes. I know people have successfully hooked them up but all I found after months of research was people asking about it, others trying things but never saying if it worked. Odds are the info is buried in someone’s build thread.

So here we go.

Handle. I chose an Orscheln Lever, Part number 02182700. The design is called "Over Center". I found it for $19.00 on e-bay. The price normally runs from $30-$60.

Cables. Control Cables inc. Parking Brake Cables | OEM replacement cables | Street Rod Parking Cables (562) 949-0455. These people rock. $100 shipped. Trying to piece this together from E-Trailer I was looking at almost $300. The cables would have been cut to fit and I would have had to figure out how to attach them to my backing plates.

They will ask you a ton of questions. I took a length of welding cable and draped it around to get my lengths. My backing plate tabs have a 9/16 hole. This seems to be standard. My dexter axle has a lever hanging down, 4” from the holder. They have all the parts no matter what configuration you have. I Ordered them Thursday night as they were closing and had them on Tuesday.

Now for the pictures


View attachment 139103

Cable end with clevis. The housing has a couple of slots machined into it. Its held in place with an E-Clip. My tab was 1/8 inch thick. If they were 1/4 i would use the outer ring for the clip.

View attachment 139104
Equalizer and adjuster.

View attachment 139105
Looking down into the handle. You can see how the clevis fits perfectly over the draw bar.

View attachment 139106
Handle mounted in the unlock position. The top of the handle threads up or down. This is how you adjust how far the handle pulls the cable.

View attachment 139107
Mounting tab and lever on the backing plate.

View attachment 139108
Here is a poor view underneath. The cables are routed to when the axle moves, the cables won't bind or pull on the brake. You take the slack out of the cable at the equalizer then adjust the handle for the pull distance. After adjusting, I made sure the levers on the brakes went back completely.

The only things I had to make were the cable mount tab's under the body and in the handle. They were all 9/16 holes. They Had mounts at Control Cables but I didn't want to pay for nice stainless pieces.
.

This is awesome, @smritte, both in info detail and images. It should come in quite handy for folks making their own trailers or renovating an older one. Those are the same exact parking brake handles used on a lot of military trailers, including my XV-2.

.
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,827
Ontario California
First Name
Scott
Last Name
SMR
Member #

8846

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KO6BI
This is awesome, @smritte, both in info detail and images. It should come in quite handy for folks making their own trailers or renovating an older one. Those are the same exact parking brake handles used on a lot of military trailers, including my XV-2.
Thank you. This was one of the few items I've been stressing over on my build. The handle appears to be the same one the military used. The military trailers I've seen ran bare cable to the axle. I wanted something in a housing. I'll be adding this onto my M-100 later.
 

Road

Not into ranks, titles or points.
Launch Member

Advocate III

3,379
On the road in North America
First Name
Road
Last Name
Dude
Member #

6589

Thank you. This was one of the few items I've been stressing over on my build. The handle appears to be the same one the military used. The military trailers I've seen ran bare cable to the axle. I wanted something in a housing. I'll be adding this onto my M-100 later.
Yeah, I had an M416 with one brake handle and cable that split to the wheels (pics below). The Bantam T3-C I had either didn't have hand brakes or was removed when it was fixed up prior to my purchase. I no longer have either of those trailers.

My XV-2 has a separate hand brakes with a handle on each side under the front fender. This is great when needing to brake one side but not the other, like when wanting to pivot the trailer on one wheel.

I have other images of the brake handle placement if you want them for any reason.

180201_5083-800.jpg

180201_5075-800.jpg

.
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,827
Ontario California
First Name
Scott
Last Name
SMR
Member #

8846

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KO6BI
Nice. If someone sees this wanting to repair theirs, it's good to have the military configuration also. That trailer is in the same shape my M-100 was when I got it. No brake on mine. Didn't look like it ever had one.