Member II
This maybe a silly question but I’m new to working on my own vehicle. Looking for suggestions on what would be good mechanics tools and sets to start with.
Tools
- Thread starter Jeepmedic46
- Start date
Influencer II
Im a diesel mechanic and have been turning wrenches for over 10 years. I do own quite a few Matco brand tools that I've used for years. The down side being price and availability of a tool truck. On the other hand i also have a set of the multi colored harbor freight sockets the I've used for a few years along side a couple Pittsburg Pro ratchets and haven't had any issues either. I would not recommend any of the Pittsburg wrenches. The new Icon stuff seem to be good but I've never used them. Also Kobalt has descent starter sets with lifetime warranties
Traveler II
You have an excellent vehicle to learn on. There is generally plenty of room to work on an XJ, and most jobs are pretty straightforward.
Be aware that you are going to need both standard and metric sets. The engine block is an old design from when everything was standard thread, but the majority of the rest of the vehicle uses metric. It all comes down to how long ago a certain component was designed.
There are a few tools which are not going to come in a kit and which you should invest in for your particular vehicle. You should get a 36mm socket. This is the tool for the large axle nut on the front axle stub shafts. You will need this if you ever need to deal with the front bearings. It also happens to be just the right size to work as a driver for the front axle seals should you ever need to replace those. You can get that 36mm socket in either 1/2" or 3/4" drive. Make sure you have something that matches it and that will give you good leverage or allow you to add good leverage to it.
Also needed to replace those bearings is a twelve point 13mm 1/2" drive socket and a bit of leverage.
You should also get the tools required in order to change the crankshaft position sensor. And carry a spare CPS--it is not uncommon to need to replace this little illegitimate spawn of an unwed female dog. You need about 36" worth of 3/8" extensions, one of those extensions should be a wobble extension, plus a universal and a good quality six point 11mm 3/8" drive socket. I would suggest you buy a Snap-on socket for that one. If you round off the head on either of those two bolts you are going to be up the proverbial creek. Given how awkward their access is you want every possible advantage on your side.
Beyond those things your standard tool sets should take care of most needs, and what those things don't cover is probably best rented from the auto parts store as you are not likely to need it repeatedly.
However, besides the tools, do get yourself a can of Kroil and a tube of anti-seize. Use the Kroil the night before you tackle anything that isn't an oil leak, and then reassemble those bolts with anti-seize.
Some more thoughts:
You need a scan tool of some form. Most folks seem to opt for a dongle that will interface with their phone anymore. I am a dinosaur and still use a stand alone device. Pick what suits your needs, but do get something. You have OBDII, and it is very user friendly.
Youtube is also a great tool. I highly recommend BleepinJeep for an XJ. Matt is very good. He has videos for a bunch of jobs. There are others out there, but their profanity is more remarkable than their content.
I will also suggest you use your local Pick-Your-Part junkyard as a learning tool. Take a walk through the yard and see what your vehicle looks like when it is half disassembled. That will give you a better sense of what is behind the dash and so forth. It would also be a good place to practice removing the CPS. My local junkyard will let me take nuts, bolts and fuses at no charge (after paying admission). If yours does the same then you should at least find another Jeep and clear out all the fuses. That will get you an assortment of the right sizes and values of fuses (note you have two fuse blocks: One under the hood near the battery and another under the dash at the drivers left foot). Carry those spare fuses in at least a ziploc bag.
Be aware that you are going to need both standard and metric sets. The engine block is an old design from when everything was standard thread, but the majority of the rest of the vehicle uses metric. It all comes down to how long ago a certain component was designed.
There are a few tools which are not going to come in a kit and which you should invest in for your particular vehicle. You should get a 36mm socket. This is the tool for the large axle nut on the front axle stub shafts. You will need this if you ever need to deal with the front bearings. It also happens to be just the right size to work as a driver for the front axle seals should you ever need to replace those. You can get that 36mm socket in either 1/2" or 3/4" drive. Make sure you have something that matches it and that will give you good leverage or allow you to add good leverage to it.
Also needed to replace those bearings is a twelve point 13mm 1/2" drive socket and a bit of leverage.
You should also get the tools required in order to change the crankshaft position sensor. And carry a spare CPS--it is not uncommon to need to replace this little illegitimate spawn of an unwed female dog. You need about 36" worth of 3/8" extensions, one of those extensions should be a wobble extension, plus a universal and a good quality six point 11mm 3/8" drive socket. I would suggest you buy a Snap-on socket for that one. If you round off the head on either of those two bolts you are going to be up the proverbial creek. Given how awkward their access is you want every possible advantage on your side.
Beyond those things your standard tool sets should take care of most needs, and what those things don't cover is probably best rented from the auto parts store as you are not likely to need it repeatedly.
However, besides the tools, do get yourself a can of Kroil and a tube of anti-seize. Use the Kroil the night before you tackle anything that isn't an oil leak, and then reassemble those bolts with anti-seize.
Some more thoughts:
You need a scan tool of some form. Most folks seem to opt for a dongle that will interface with their phone anymore. I am a dinosaur and still use a stand alone device. Pick what suits your needs, but do get something. You have OBDII, and it is very user friendly.
Youtube is also a great tool. I highly recommend BleepinJeep for an XJ. Matt is very good. He has videos for a bunch of jobs. There are others out there, but their profanity is more remarkable than their content.
I will also suggest you use your local Pick-Your-Part junkyard as a learning tool. Take a walk through the yard and see what your vehicle looks like when it is half disassembled. That will give you a better sense of what is behind the dash and so forth. It would also be a good place to practice removing the CPS. My local junkyard will let me take nuts, bolts and fuses at no charge (after paying admission). If yours does the same then you should at least find another Jeep and clear out all the fuses. That will get you an assortment of the right sizes and values of fuses (note you have two fuse blocks: One under the hood near the battery and another under the dash at the drivers left foot). Carry those spare fuses in at least a ziploc bag.
Last edited:
Influencer I
- 2,358
- First Name
- Dillon
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- Wilke
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20298
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I have been working on cars and trucks in some capacity for about 20 years, and have been a professional HD mechanic for 8 years. I started out with a Craftsman mechanics set and a 4 drawer Craftsman road box. Those tools carried me until the last 3 years, I run just about all Snap On or Blue Point now (mostly because Im making enough money to get the higher end tools. Im 100% willing to admit part of it is a status thing, but the quality is hands down much better). However I still have some Craftsman stuff and I also have a bit of Pittsburgh stuff in my tool box (all of my sockets from 1 1/8" up to 2" and my wrenches from 1 1/16 to 2 3/8" are Pittsburgh, I also have a set of hydraulic fitting wrenches). My take is for sockets and wrenches most stuff is good to go, especially for the home mechanic. I would have no problem just running Pittsburgh stuff for general maintenance if I didnt have access to professional level stuff. That said I have a basic assortment of Pittsburgh tools at home in case I need to perform unplanned repairs on the house or my cars. Honestly the biggest thing I can say is get good ratchets. The first thing I upgraded were all of my ratchets and I believe Snap On to have some of the best. For that Jeep of yours though you should only need metric tools, so I would work on getting that first. If I remember right from working on my TJ the biggest socket I ever needed was a 24MM for the axle shaft nuts. Also you will need Torx bits.
Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
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- Rose
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20990
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I was a professional ASE certified automotive and diesel technician for over 15 years, working in several shops (to include one of my own). When I started out, I bought what I could afford, but would still hold up to professional use. I ended up getting a very basic Craftsman Mechanic Tool Set (linked below), a test light, spark tester, multimeter, pry bar set, hammer, chisel and punch set, and a full screwdriver set. Then as I needed more tools for the job at hand I purchased specialty tools, or individual tools I didnt already have. when I found myself barrowing a tool more than once, I bought one.
The biggest thing, spend good money once on specialty tools that could break or wear out under abnormal use, ie an o2 socket, normally they should hold up fi e, but the cheaper ones tend to snap when you have to use a braker bar and a pipe to get them loose.
Craftsman entry level set
The biggest thing, spend good money once on specialty tools that could break or wear out under abnormal use, ie an o2 socket, normally they should hold up fi e, but the cheaper ones tend to snap when you have to use a braker bar and a pipe to get them loose.
Craftsman entry level set
Influencer I
- 2,358
- First Name
- Dillon
- Last Name
- Wilke
- Member #
-
20298
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KJ7LVO/ WRQL275
- Service Branch
- USAF
That set is the one I used when I was on my own. With a few additions like mentioned above it kept my Isuzu pickup and Trooper going when I moved out and couldn't use dad's tools anymore. It also served as my foundation once I left the military and worked on a diesel degree, then for my first 5 years in the industry. Only thing i would add to the sugestions above is a torque wrench. Craftsman makes a good 1/2 drive that goes from 20 to 150 lb ft. I still have one of these in my box and it has held up to professional use.
Advocate I
Search YouTube for "Deal Alert! 224 Piece Craftsman Tool Set for $100"
The guy in the video says where and how to buy, and get the rebate. This is a heck of a deal for $100.
There are a lot of options and good/bad stuff out there, but if this one works out it is good for the money.
Otherwise, per other comments here, I have a mix of older Craftsman, Crescent, Husky, and who knows what ranging from Harbor Freight (sockets) to Snap-on (torque wrenches, swivels, specialty tools).
It all depends on the demand I am going to put on the tool, and what I expect from it.
And this is a good time of year- Holiday deals starting to show up everywhere!!!
The guy in the video says where and how to buy, and get the rebate. This is a heck of a deal for $100.
There are a lot of options and good/bad stuff out there, but if this one works out it is good for the money.
Otherwise, per other comments here, I have a mix of older Craftsman, Crescent, Husky, and who knows what ranging from Harbor Freight (sockets) to Snap-on (torque wrenches, swivels, specialty tools).
It all depends on the demand I am going to put on the tool, and what I expect from it.
And this is a good time of year- Holiday deals starting to show up everywhere!!!
There are many top brand names which are the best buy.
Don't buy just because you get a bigger package cheaper unless it is a brand name.
Matco, Craftsman(used to be anyway) Proto, even Mastercraft are all good brand names. And Snap On is hard to beat. I have some of each of these, all at least 30 years old and used often. But stay away from the online no names with 100 pieces for $100 unless you just want it for show. A broken wrench usually means busted knuckles.
Go look at what the professional mechanics are using. Even if they cost double they will last a lifetime and be trouble free.
Don't buy just because you get a bigger package cheaper unless it is a brand name.
Matco, Craftsman(used to be anyway) Proto, even Mastercraft are all good brand names. And Snap On is hard to beat. I have some of each of these, all at least 30 years old and used often. But stay away from the online no names with 100 pieces for $100 unless you just want it for show. A broken wrench usually means busted knuckles.
Go look at what the professional mechanics are using. Even if they cost double they will last a lifetime and be trouble free.
Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
-
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
I was a professional ASE certified automotive and diesel technician for over 15 years, working in several shops (to include one of my own). When I started out, I bought what I could afford, but would still hold up to professional use. I ended up getting a very basic Craftsman Mechanic Tool Set (linked below), a test light, spark tester, multimeter, pry bar set, hammer, chisel and punch set, and a full screwdriver set. Then as I needed more tools for the job at hand I purchased specialty tools, or individual tools I didnt already have. when I found myself barrowing a tool more than once, I bought one.
The biggest thing, spend good money once on specialty tools that could break or wear out under abnormal use, ie an o2 socket, normally they should hold up fi e, but the cheaper ones tend to snap when you have to use a braker bar and a pipe to get them loose.
Craftsman entry level set
The biggest thing, spend good money once on specialty tools that could break or wear out under abnormal use, ie an o2 socket, normally they should hold up fi e, but the cheaper ones tend to snap when you have to use a braker bar and a pipe to get them loose.
Craftsman entry level set
Craigslist can be a great place to get used tools pretty cheap. It wont likely be a full set, or there may be holes vs what your specific vehicle needs that you will need to add (like the 36mm socket referenced above) but you do that easily enough.
Make sure you hold an example of the wrenches before you buy them. I love Snap-on's quality but I always found their wrenches to be too narrow/thin for my hands and dug in when I needed to really pull on them. Obviously sockets wont be an issue. But might be worth checking the feel of them if you are buying a used (or new) set.
Make sure you hold an example of the wrenches before you buy them. I love Snap-on's quality but I always found their wrenches to be too narrow/thin for my hands and dug in when I needed to really pull on them. Obviously sockets wont be an issue. But might be worth checking the feel of them if you are buying a used (or new) set.
Member III
This started life as an early 80's Craftsman SAE/Metric set in 3/8 and 1/4" in a nice Bible sized case. I gutted all of the SAE as well as the ratchets and added back a wider selection of metric, torx drivers, bits, extensions, swivel, an oil filter socket and oil plug socket, etc.
I can't stand stuff that rattles and the elastic banding was loose in some spots, so I laminated .125x.5x1.0 N43 neodymium magnets between some.125x.5 annealed aluminum stock (the silver bars you see) which keeps everything quiet and secure. Probably want to keep it away from navigation devices or computers LOL.
I also carry wrench sets (Tekton combination and ratcheting swivel box which I won't buy any more of because Justin Amash is a #nevertrumperdildo but I digress), Knipex pliers, a 2pound hammer, Fluke multimeter.
ETA, more pertinent to the OP original question there are lots of good tools out these days, Gear Wrench is my first stop.
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Member II
I will try Craigslist. I have been looking on Facebook Market Place. My wife has been having good luck buying stuff on that.
Member II
That looks like a well put together set. I’ll have to see about that type of case. My wife thinks I should get a 3 drawer box and leave it in the Jeep.
Steward I
Garage sales, estate sales, flea markets and swap meets are also good places to get quality tools for cheap.
Member III
LOL, your wife is not wrong, the sooner you accept that as fact the better off you are.
However, much of that is unnecessary and there is already a finite amount of room in a Jeep. It really isn't that hard to figure out what you NEED and just buying a bigger set to carry around with you isn't the right answer. A bunch of SAE stuff? Useless on a late model Jeep.
Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
-
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
Thats what I did in my second XJ... then I found a better solution, a small flat tool box that held emergency tools, a hammer, adjustable wrench, and a few common sockets with ratchet.
Not so.
Differentials (including the covers), tie rod ends and ball joints are SAE. So too are many of the nuts bolts once you start to get into the engine. Keep in mind the age of the original designs for these components. The axles and engine block go back several decades when everything was SAE in this country. Chrysler didn't re-tool everything just to make it metric. The fun comes in when dealing with accessories mounted to the block. The threads into the block are SAE, but the brackets added on have metric threads.
Plan on needing both standard and metric. That is the joy of a '90s era vehicle (and yes, up to 2001 for the XJ).
