First, awesome Sub!
Personally I think it's worth it to get a little more clearance, break-over etc. on such a big rig. Also, the lift allows for the bigger tire, which gives more sidewall which makes for both a better ride aired down but also better traction and floatation. Of course, BillieBob is not wrong: selectable lockers front and rear (or at least front, keeping your G80 rear) will get your further than the lift will on difficult trails. But life isn't a zero-sum game, it's not always one OR the other exclusively. You could always do the lift and bigger tires now, and do lockers and regear down the road. Second, for most overlanders it's not about what'll let you push it that much further/deeper on the gnarliest trail you can find. Again, the lockers win if that were the case. But, for most overlanders it's about what makes you more comfortable going down the mild trails we tend to traverse and IMHO the lift and larger tires win in that you'll feel then all the time every time you're off road, not just in a jam like lockers. Finally, are there even selectable locker options for the front diff in those? If not (which I believe is the case), the whole "lockers vs. lift" thing is sort of a moot- point.
Now, all of that said, all lifts are not created equal. At 2" I don't think torsion keys and blocks are a "bad" idea by any means, but it's prob about the limit for that type of lift. With the keys at least you're not cranking the bars, so ride-quality shouldn't suffer.
However, you're modifying the suspension geometry at ride-height, which *could* adversely effect ride. You don't want control arms on an IFS at extreme angles for similar reasons to why you don't want short links at high angles on a linked solid axle rig. Once the A-arm sit at extreme angles, the tire has to make a big sweep through initial travel (known as scrub) which will add unwanted, undampened resistance to suspension travel (roughly, it acts like additional spring rate). This can make the ride more "jarring" on small hits that can't overcome that initial resistance to suspension movement and therefore transfer the hit to the chassis and body.
The other thing is you're setting the suspension up further into what normally would be "droop" travel at rest. This means you have less droop, which does make for a more jarring ride in situations where the tires can't drop out enough to stay in contact with a trail with lots of holes. Typical washboard will probably unaffected since I presume you'd still have enough down-travel for that. On the upside (pun intended) you'll have more up-travel which should make big-hits smoother, if properly dampened. Anyway, my point is that generally people seems to assume that a lift == more travel, and most of the time that's not the case. Generally you're either moving the entire suspension down (like a bracket-based lift kit for your IFS), changing the relationship between wheel center-line and the suspension pick-up points (like a spindle-lift or differently shaped A-arms that are not actually wider in the front or a block in the rear), or you're changing where you're sitting within the given suspension travel (like is the case with torsion keys, coil-spring spacers, and the like). Of course, there are true "long travel" kits out there and that's a whole other story... but much less common, especially in the Overland world.
-TJ