The s10 build

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618s10

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Kenneth
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Hellrung
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I have an 03 chevy s10 4wd extended cab short bed I am currently in the process of installing the rough country 3" lift it already had a 2" body lift with 32/11.5/15 mt. It's a 4.3 automatic. I'm new to the overlanding so any advise would be appreciated thanks.
 

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American Off-Road Club

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Berkshire, NY, USA
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Dalton
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Kemak
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Quite a bit of s-series experience I'd love to share. That 4.3 is restricted. you can gain a ton of low end torque by pulling the throttle body blade and swapping it with one out of a 5.3 or 5.7. this will remove the restrictor plate that was put in from the factory. There is also room to bore that throttle body out on the bottom where it's necked down below the blade. Be careful with the cold air intakes on this though as the Mass Airflow Sensor causes problems. Winter starts will also become an issue because of the ambient air temp sensor. After any engine mods, you will want to disconnect both battery terminals, and hold them together for about 15 seconds. this will drain the capacitors in the computer and reset the fuel map. after reconnecting the battery, you will want to start it and let it run for a minimum of 5 minutes without touching the throttle. It will fluctuate rpms a bit but this is going to allow the computer to map a baseline tune. After this you can shut it down. Once you are ready to drive it, spend the first few drive cycles (until all your monitors are set) driving it like normal. The computer is going to map itself according to the way you drive. Try to keep it on back roads with hills and somewhat frequent stops. This won't take long really.

You will also want to add an external transmission and power steering cooler. The 4L60E can be a great transmission, but no automatics are particularly fond of heat and the stock radiator side cooler is worthless. The power steering coolers are simple enough just be sure to put it in the return line. most s10s have a stock cooler but it;s nothing more tan a pice of tubing bent a bunch of times. I used a stock replacement for a dogde ram 1500. ZR2 suspension parts do interchange to some extent. the rear axles are wider and bigger and generally have different gears. If I remember right, my ZR2 had 4:11 fronts and 4:19 rear, yet my normal ls had 3.73 front and rear. I'm not sure if the control arms knuckles axles and so on in the front paired with the rear axle will give you the wider stance or not, I didn't get to that point with mine.

You will want to ditch that mechanical fan as well. I swapped mine with a large electric fan (I think from a Dakota But I can't confirm) and have it wired to come on with the ignition (full time) but add a kill switch so you can turn it off for starting with a low battery (happens) and have it powered through a relay.

Probably a lot more I'm missing just PM me if you have any questions, I may have an answer.
 
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firecraft13

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874
Waco, Texas, USA
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Joseph
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Hickman
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28289

I have a 01 S10 crew cab LS 4x4 that I have to replace the entire front body on. Grill assembly, radiator support, hood, fenders, bumper, etc due to a incident with a wet road and a extremely deep ditch. I figured it would be a good time to go ahead and upgrade. But I'm having issues finding parts that seem to meet my end goal of building it into a overland vehicle. And I don't know what if anything will swap over from other vehicles and meet my end goal.
Are there any specific sites or kits that ya'll might be able to direct me to? Is there a list somewhere of what will swap over with out extreme modification? Or would I be better off just taking the time to fabricate my own new front end?
 

American Off-Road Club

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Round nose s10s were intoduced in 94 with square halogen headlights. The nose you have was introduced in 98 and carried to 04. The core support, headlights, grille, and hood latch should match from 98-04. They are the same on s10s blazers and zr2s. The fenders and hood should match from 94-04. For these you can pull parts from s10s, Sonoma, blazers, and Jimmy's. If you are going to run larger tires with low COG you will end up wanting fenders from a zr2 as they have larger wheel pockets however then you are going to have to change the bed to match. Doors should all be the same from 94-04 for all s10s, blazers, Sonoma, Jimmy's, and zr2s with the exception of the interior panels. If you intend on doing a body lift now would be the time but I would advise you to keep it no more than 2 inches. Since you will have it all apart, I would re route the transmission lines to an external cooler, add a power steering cooler, ditch the mechanical fan for an electric with a manual bypass in case your temp sensor fails and if you don't plan on having ac remove the entire system up to the firewall. The rest depends on your plans for the build. Anything over 33 inch tires you should consider an sas.
 
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firecraft13

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Joseph
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Been looking for the ZR2 fenders that were suggested and came across what is labeled as a ZR5. I've been looking for what the difference between the two are. Apparently there is plenty of information on the ZR2, but I've been unable to find much on the ZR5.
I was wondering what the difference is and if the parts on one model would be better than the other for overland purposes.
 

itsrikka

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Vincennes, IN
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Rikka
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Lee
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Been looking for the ZR2 fenders that were suggested and came across what is labeled as a ZR5. I've been looking for what the difference between the two are. Apparently there is plenty of information on the ZR2, but I've been unable to find much on the ZR5.
I was wondering what the difference is and if the parts on one model would be better than the other for overland purposes.
From what I can find out, the ZR5 is the same as a ZR2 except with a crew cab (4 doors). Everything that you listed should be able to be swapped over from a ZR5.
 

American Off-Road Club

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the ZR5 typically had 235 75 r15 tires and less lift as well as bed rails, a roof rack, and most I've seen had special wheels. They do however sit at the same height and wheelbase as a regular 4 door s10. the ZR2 had 31 10.5 r15 tires and a factory lift as well as a larger rear, limited slip, and if I remember correctly, 4.11 gears in the front and 4.10 gears in the rear. However I cannot specify as to the flares.
 
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firecraft13

Rank III

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Waco, Texas, USA
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Joseph
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Hickman
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I've found most of the parts that I am going to need to get my S10 back on the road. Including the ZR2 fenders. Should be putting the order in next week and receive them the following week. The only parts that I'm not ordering now is the driver side door (most likely going to get one at a pull-a-part yard) and a front bumper. Don't need either for it to pass inspection and get back on the road. But I am planning on building my own front bumper assembly.
The major draw back that has come up is due to the slightly bent passenger side front frame my measurements will be off. Any suggestions on where I might find schematics, drawings with dimensions, or possibly other's plans with dimensions to work off of? Anything would be extremely helpful, and I will happily share the designs and build pictures of my project.

P.S. I am a member of another site specifically for S10s. I was wondering if it would be ok for me to share ya'll's advice, suggestions, and links on altering our trucks. I have asked for the same permission on the other site so that all of us will get more knowledge.
 

firecraft13

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Waco, Texas, USA
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Joseph
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As stated above, I am a member of another site that is strictly for S10s. I asked them if I could share some of the information they have provided, and they have said yes.
I am not sure if this is somewhere on this site. If it is I have not found it yet, so I figured i would share.

Specifications with dimensions for S10 products

This PDF has a lot of good information on proper alterations of our vehicles and specifications on body, frame, and even interior dimensions.
Hope ya'll enjoy.
 
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firecraft13

Rank III

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874
Waco, Texas, USA
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Joseph
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Hickman
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Began tearing into my S10 crew cab the other day to get it going again. Going to make sure it is mechanically sound before I start gathering the body parts it need.

Got a new battery and installed it, followed by checking all fluids, belts, fuses, etc. Followed by trying to start it. It turns over just fine, but will not start. Began diagnosing the issue and found that the fuel pump had gone out. Fuel pump fuse and relay are good, even swapped out the relay just to make sure. Turned the key and had no sound from the pump. Disconnected the fuel filter and tried again, still nothing.
So I looked up the easiest way to access the fuel pump since its such a pain in the a%$ to drop the tank. Every thing said remove the bed. So I removed the bed and reconnected all the ground wires. Ended up learning that on crew cab models the fuel pump is accessible. But for diagnosis purposes only. Unfortunately, it is located just under the very back driver side of the cab. Double checked all electrical connections at the pump and disconnected the fuel lines. Turned the key and still nothing.
Disconnected the emergency brake cable on the driver side. Removed the four bolts holding the tank bracket and the tank is out.
Cleaned the top of the tank and removed the pump only to find the reason why the pump went out. Apparently there was bad gas with some trash that was poured in to the tank. Plus some of the old gas had become gel.
So next step is to clean the tank as best as possible, followed by installation of new fuel pump.
 

618s10

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233
Illionis
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Kenneth
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Hellrung
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16213

Ok update transmission went out on the old s10 so I finished the rebuild it is back in and just have to finish up a few things on that side of it also while it was out put on all new u joints put on a set of headers deleted the old fan off the water pump and put in a 3 row radiator and electric fans on a thermostat working on putting in new billet distributor high output coil 8.5 mm wires and e3 plugs and put a new set of 31 all terrains on my new beed locks I still need to put on my new exhaust and the camper shell I have for it and she will be ready to roll Snapchat-1108514211.jpg
 
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618s10

Rank I
Launch Member

Member I

233
Illionis
First Name
Kenneth
Last Name
Hellrung
Member #

16213

Snapchat-1338375138.jpg

Working on putting the new distributor and high output coil in now
 
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firecraft13

Rank III

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Waco, Texas, USA
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Joseph
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Hickman
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28289

How's the build going?

BTW, The Black Pearl (my 01 S10 crew cab LS) is RESURECTED!!!!!!!!!!! (Insert minicanal laughter)

Just picked it up to day after having the frame straightened and the 2.5" Rough Country lift with steering stabilizer being installed. It is officially insured and inspected. Working on making appointments for the next two legal hurdles.

Next step is replacing the passenger side mirror, the new Atoto touch screen android radio and Bluetooth OBD2 remote sensor, and finish the engine flushes and maintenance. Along with the work I have to do on a 92 Jeep Cherokee Laredo for my sister. All u-joints, trans mount, front shocks, and a few other things. Glad there's a week brake between semesters.
 

firecraft13

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Waco, Texas, USA
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Joseph
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Hickman
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It is becoming that after the Pearl siting for so long, I will be having to slowly replace several systems, a little bit at a time. Currently I am putting together two separate parts list and would greatly appreciate what specific parts you would suggest. What's worth the money, will stand up, and actually do the job. Figure if the parts have to be changed, its the best time to upgrade. But it looks like I will only be able to do one of the two options bellow.

When they straightened the frame, they cracked the radiator. So no it has a bottle of Bars Leak in it, along with an amazing amount of rust.
Ideally the radiator is going to be upgraded to a high capacity full aluminum one. I like the one in you photo above but am not sure where to get it. And the ones I have looked at, I am not sure they will fit properly.
The clutch fan is going to be replaced by a dual electric fan system. If possible, with two speed or variable speed fans with controls located in the cab. I already know what components that will be needed to run the controls to the cab. At this point the current parts list includes

From Amazon
Hayden Automotive 679 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler, Black, 11 Inch
GMB 130-1820P High Performance Series Water Pump with Gasket.

Along with pricing hoses, belt, radiator mount bushings, and possibly tensioner pulley from various sources.

Once again, after sitting so long the brakes and wheel bearing sound like they need some attention. With that in mind, it sounds like a good time to upgrade the brakes, rotors, bearings, wheel/hub bearings, and CV-axles. At this point the current parts list includes:

From Rock Auto
Z36 Truck & Tow Performance Kit with Powder Coated Calipers
MOOG 234 U-joints
TRAKMOTIVE GM8038 and TRAKMOTIVE GM8047 CV-axles
TIMKEN 513124 Front Hub axles

Although none of the parts are currently set in stone. Thus why I am asking for the advice.