Synthetic winch line and end link.

[TreXTerra]

I have just come into a used Smittybilt 9,500# winch that is wound with steel cable. I'd like to swap out the steel line for synthetic and put a nice end link on it instead of a hook. The roller fairlead the came with the winch was used with steel line, so I plan to buy a brand new hawse to avoid snags and cuts.

Aside from polishing the winch drum to protect the new synthetic line, is there anything else I should do?

Any recommendations for synthetic lines? The Smittybilt lines are less expensive than Warn, are they weaker or less safe in some way?

I'm also open to suggestions for a hawse and end links.

 

[SwampcatJeep]

I've got a WARN Hawse fairlead you can have. It came with my winch, but I'm using a Factor 55 fairlead on the rig, so the WARN is just taking up space. Let me know if you want it.

As for the rope, I'd highly recommend a reputable and well-respected brand line (Masterpull, WARN, BubbaRope, etc.). It's worth the money in durability and reliability. Plus these companies will have much better warranties and customer service.

As for converting from steel to synthetic... polishing the winch drum is pretty much it. If the winch is well-used or has been submerged a lot (or for long periods), you might take advantage of the opportunity while it's off the rig to pull it apart and inspect/grease the planetary gearing. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's recommended install procedure for whichever line you buy. This will usually include things like pre-stretching the line and winding it under load.

Almost forgot... for end links... Factor 55 is the absolute best in the business.

 

[4xFar Adventures]

Don't polish the drum if you're switching to synthetic line. The synthetic fibers have less friction than a steel cable, so you actually want increased grip. I would suggest using a high temp spray paint for a grill. It has a some texture to it, but it's not as coarse as something like truck bed liner paint.

For line selection, you want 3/8" Dyneema. Other names you will find this under are AmSteel Blue and SK75. Regular AmSteel or SK60 line should be avoided. The MBS (Minimum Breaking Strength) should be around 19,600 LBS. Winchine.com has great products too. There are other types of synthetic line like Technora, Vectran, Plasma, and Kevlar. These can have a higher heat tolerance but are somewhat weaker in overall strength compared to Dyneema.

Synthetic line doesn't need to be pre-stretched as it has next to no elasticity. But as mentioned, it does need to be wound under load onto the drum before being used for a recovery. This is to prevent it from slipping around the drum during use, and should also be done after using the winch for a recovery.

 

[TreXTerra]

I've got a WARN Hawse fairlead you can have. It came with my winch, but I'm using a Factor 55 fairlead on the rig, so the WARN is just taking up space. Let me know if you want it.

As for the rope, I'd highly recommend a reputable and well-respected brand line (Masterpull, WARN, BubbaRope, etc.). It's worth the money in durability and reliability. Plus these companies will have much better warranties and customer service.

As for converting from steel to synthetic... polishing the winch drum is pretty much it. If the winch is well-used or has been submerged a lot (or for long periods), you might take advantage of the opportunity while it's off the rig to pull it apart and inspect/grease the planetary gearing. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's recommended install procedure for whichever line you buy. This will usually include things like pre-stretching the line and winding it under load.

Almost forgot... for end links... Factor 55 is the absolute best in the business.

I would welcome the hawse fairlead. I'm sending you a PM.

 

[SwampcatJeep]

Don't polish the drum if you're switching to synthetic line. The synthetic fibers have less friction than a steel cable, so you actually want increased grip. I would suggest using a high temp spray paint for a grill. It has a some texture to it, but it's not as coarse as something like truck bed liner paint.

Hey Brenton! I've always been told when converting from steel to synthetic to 'polish' the drum to remove burs/nicks that might damage the synthetic line. 'Polish' may be a poor term, since really this is just smoothing the drum. But, I've never heard anyone advocate for painting the drum or adding any texture. Is this something that is commonly done? Considering that you're not supposed to line out any further than the first wrap of rope, and so the rope contacting the drum would never really move, I don't see how adding texture to the drum would result in any benefit in performance. Based on your website, though, you definitely have more experience than I do, so please educate me if I'm wrong.

Thanks!

 

[4xFar Adventures]

Hey Brenton! I've always been told when converting from steel to synthetic to 'polish' the drum to remove burs/nicks that might damage the synthetic line. 'Polish' may be a poor term, since really this is just smoothing the drum. But, I've never heard anyone advocate for painting the drum or adding any texture. Is this something that is commonly done? Considering that you're not supposed to line out any further than the first wrap of rope, and so the rope contacting the drum would never really move, I don't see how adding texture to the drum would result in any benefit in performance. Based on your website, though, you definitely have more experience than I do, so please educate me if I'm wrong.

Thanks!

Ah, yes, de-burring should be done if there are nicks on the drum as well as rust removal. You don't want the drum rusting so it should be painted with something. Here's my reasoning for using high temp paint on the drum.

When using steel cable, you should leave at least 5 wraps around the drum. This ensures the cable wont slip and pull the set screw off, which obviously is meant to just retain the cable end to the drum.

When using synthetic line, you should leave at least one entire layer of rope on the drum. That's around 10-12 wraps. The reason for the increase in wraps? Because synthetic line has less friction and you need that entire layer to ensure the rope doesn't slip off the drum under load.

Regular spray paint will flake off pretty quickly. The tougher enamel paint (like the kitchen appliance type) would work, but it has a high gloss and slick finish. Truck bed liner paint seems to have too much texture and could snag the individual fibers. So that leaves high temp paint. It's still pretty tough, and has just enough texture for some added grip.

This is just something I've come up with over the years and seems to work well.

 

[SwampcatJeep]

Ah, yes, de-burring should be done if there are nicks on the drum as well as rust removal. You don't want the drum rusting so it should be painted with something. Here's my reasoning for using high temp paint on the drum.

When using steel cable, you should leave at least 5 wraps around the drum. This ensures the cable wont slip and pull the set screw off, which obviously is meant to just retain the cable end to the drum.

When using synthetic line, you should leave at least one entire layer of rope on the drum. That's around 10-12 wraps. The reason for the increase in wraps? Because synthetic line has less friction and you need that entire layer to ensure the rope doesn't slip off the drum under load.

Regular spray paint will flake off pretty quickly. The tougher enamel paint (like the kitchen appliance type) would work, but it has a high gloss and slick finish. Truck bed liner paint seems to have too much texture and could snag the individual fibers. So that leaves high temp paint. It's still pretty tough, and has just enough texture for some added grip.

This is just something I've come up with over the years and seems to work well.

Okay, awesome! That's all great info. I mistyped when I said "wrap" I meant layer, but yeah I'll have to look at painting the drum next time I've got the line off.

Thanks!

 

[TreXTerra]

I have been swamped with home stuff the past week, but tomorrow I'm going to try to get the winch apart for cleaning, servicing and seeing about treating that drum. Both with de-burring and possibly some kind of paint or powdercoat to protect it.

I've got a WARN Hawse fairlead you can have. It came with my winch, but I'm using a Factor 55 fairlead on the rig, so the WARN is just taking up space. Let me know if you want it.

As for the rope, I'd highly recommend a reputable and well-respected brand line (Masterpull, WARN, BubbaRope, etc.). It's worth the money in durability and reliability. Plus these companies will have much better warranties and customer service.

As for converting from steel to synthetic... polishing the winch drum is pretty much it. If the winch is well-used or has been submerged a lot (or for long periods), you might take advantage of the opportunity while it's off the rig to pull it apart and inspect/grease the planetary gearing. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's recommended install procedure for whichever line you buy. This will usually include things like pre-stretching the line and winding it under load.

Almost forgot... for end links... Factor 55 is the absolute best in the business.

The fairlead arrived today, it's going to be brilliant on my new bumper - thank you so much! This is why I love this community, the support that transcends the usual make/model infighting. I'm going to be sure to pass it forward and keep that good karma moving for everyone.

 

[Horse Soldier]

Do not forget to take the synthetic line off once a quarter or twice a year wash the dirt and sand out to extend line life.