Subaru Outback 2.5i and camper

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bumpo83

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Marysville, OH, USA
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Matt
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My wife and I are looking for ideas on a good camper that we could tow behind our Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited. It currently has a 2" Rallitek Lift and will be adding the Rallitek Overload springs front and back shortly. Brake rotors are drilled and slotted. We had initially looked at a teardrop style but we are afraid of the lack of room since we would normally have a couple of kiddos and a dog in tow. I came across the Rockwood 1640esp pop up style but are unsure of how the car will preform towing this. The car is rated for 2700lbs of towing with 200lb tongue weight. The camper specs are roughly 1800lbs dry and 175lb tongue weight. Most of the travel we do is in the mid-west/east coast and around the Great Lakes. I know the specs are within Subarus range, but in my searches, have come across people trashing the way the vehicle will tow stuff, even within those specs. Am I thinking into this to much or are there better options out there? We don't plan to haul this thing through crazy trails but want something capable of getting off the pavement when needed and serving as a base-camp for some of our mid-west adventures.
 

RedHawk

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I have a 2017 outback and I’m looking at buying an F150 or 4Runner so I can tow a camper. Only stuff I’ve seen are small rvs like taxa tigermoth or some of the similar sized ones with RTT option. Bummer but that’s what I’m planning. Otherwise it’s a utility trailer with tents and gear on back plus my 3 kayaks and 1 canoe
 

Biker Eagle

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Livin Lite Quicksilver 8.0 has a hitch wt. of 124lb and dry weight of 994 lbs. Sleeps 6. All aluminum construction. You need to consider a transmission cooler.
 
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JWBOutback

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Jack
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New member here. FWIW, I saw an Outback with a Scamp Camper this summer pull into a campground I was at. It looked like no problem pulling it around. My guess is it slept 4 inside.
 

Dilldog

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The biggest thing you will need to consider is the Subie wont tow like a truck, so dont expect it to. You are towing with a car, as such youll probably need to manually select lower gears when pulling grades, and probably when descending as well so youre not in the brakes too much. One of the biggest things you should consider is make sure the trailers "wheel base" (distance from trailer ball to axle center line) is shorter than the wheel base of your car, this will make it feel lots more stable. Also the taller the trailer the more it will wag and move your car side to side, so keep it low. Finally, load as much weight as possible in the car, trying to front load it if possible to plant the front axle. Also dont loose sight of GVWR. I wouldnt stress it if you run over a bit, but you should be aware of it. Finally youll be working the Subie harder, so adjust your oil change intervals for engine, transmission, and differentials accordingly. If youre running it maxed out or more (like I bet you will) you will need to cut down youre change intervals to make sure you dont cook transmission or differential oil and cause problems. I would be tempted to pull some oil samples just to see how things are tolerating the extra load.
 
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