Shopping for a Rubicon

[kennedyma]

I love my Rubi. I did go with the 3.73 as I don't plan on going up to 35's anytime soon. I have to say I don't find myself wanting 4.10's and enjoy the extra few MPG.
It's my third Wrangler and by far the most comfortable one yet. 01TJ and 06LJ were my last two. Should have never sold the LJ.


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[boehml]

AEV is good stuff but WAY overpriced and you would not know the difference in your rigs ride or performance. In the last couple years, the suspension options have come a long way.

Some of it is, other things are worth the cost. Can't say I've found a steel stamped bumper of similar quality for a JK. As far as suspension goes, I think the OP wanted something that was offered by the dealer for warranty purposes. I have a Teraflex lift, and I find nothing wrong with it, it performs great and a good price point.

 

[TerryD]

I'm interested in the Jeep kit because of the warranty as well as the fact that it comes with the new front drive shaft that's the proper length and control arms that correct the alignment, all approved by Jeep. I looked at a BDS kit and it came with adjustable arms but no drive shaft for a similar price. The factory JK arms look stout enough for what I'm planning and are long enough the ride should remain good where as my old Cherokee NEEDED the long am kit I couldn't afford to improve the ride.

 

[Glenn]

My dealer has been great with me, im lucky. Not all dealers are the same though. I would ask the local JK guys who is best. We have one that will not touch a modified rig...period. They blame everything on the mods whether it is mopar blessed and warrantied or not.

 

[Kim Wineinger]

2011 4 door black Rubicon standard. Have taken it to mountains of Colorado with snow while there. Back country in the Midwest. Have never been stuck. (Don't have winch) Standard Rubicon is very capable. I plan on roof rack, new bumper, winch (so boyfriend will stop screaming like a little girl) And new lights cause Jeep headlights suck.

 

[TerryD]

I think it will be just as at home in a rock garden at Harlan as it will be cruising the sand topless on OBX or topping a plateau out west and that's exactly what I want.

I've found a few used ones that are nicer than what I would order and I was thinking of checking them out. $2-3k to get the warranty would be fine but saving $12k off the bat and having every option I really want plus a few extras wouldn't be too shabby either.

 

[TerryD]

Well my Monte Carlo sold yesterday! That's one step closer to the dream!

 

[boehml]

Well my Monte Carlo sold yesterday! That's one step closer to the dream!

Sad, but happy?

 

[TerryD]

Sad, but happy?

Honestly, I thought it would be bitter sweet but in almost four years the most I ever did with it was pull the transmission and tear it down to find out it wasn't worth rebuilding. It had been backed in a shed since then and I hadn't had enough time to do anything to it. I'm relieved that is gone!

 

[9Mike2]

Ask yourself do you need a Rubi, or can you build up a sport. If you were to leave it alone, the Rubi. But if you are talking 35's ,a lift, a regear, a Sport will work fine. And the guys going on about 30/44 to 44/44 better yet 60/60, are crawlers and have been sold on it, AKA as Way--Life D bags claim, use their stuff or you will be stranded,( which is funny because they have a mechanic with parts follow them around ) . Then you will hear the Rubi has lockers, so get them when you regear. ARB's are great and then you have a compressor on board (to air your tires) and your lockers work above 15 mph and in both high and low range , not just low. The electrical swaybar disconnect is a joke, most guys replace it with manual knob. I could go on and on , but it is best if you weigh out your needs. As a car guy I think you would enjoy building your Jeep into what you need. PS don't call a Jeep a car, everytime you do they kill a kitten!!!!

 

[boehml]

Ask yourself do you need a Rubi, or can you build up a sport. If you were to leave it alone, the Rubi. But if you are talking 35's ,a lift, a regear, a Sport will work fine. And the guys going on about 30/44 to 44/44 better yet 60/60, are crawlers and have been sold on it, AKA as Way--Life D bags claim, use their stuff or you will be stranded,( which is funny because they have a mechanic with parts follow them around ) . Then you will hear the Rubi has lockers, so get them when you regear. ARB's are great and then you have a compressor on board (to air your tires) and your lockers work above 15 mph and in both high and low range , not just low. The electrical swaybar disconnect is a joke, most guys replace it with manual knob. I could go on and on , but it is best if you weigh out your needs. As a car guy I think you would enjoy building your Jeep into what you need. PS don't call a Jeep a car, everytime you do they kill a kitten!!!!

Mike is pretty accurate, the only reason I would buy a Rubicon would be for the front 44, but even at that it's not a true 44. The Rubi 44 uses the same C's and housing that the 30 uses. It's a "hybrid 44".

 

[TerryD]

Ask yourself do you need a Rubi, or can you build up a sport. If you were to leave it alone, the Rubi. But if you are talking 35's ,a lift, a regear, a Sport will work fine. And the guys going on about 30/44 to 44/44 better yet 60/60, are crawlers and have been sold on it, AKA as Way--Life D bags claim, use their stuff or you will be stranded,( which is funny because they have a mechanic with parts follow them around ) . Then you will hear the Rubi has lockers, so get them when you regear. ARB's are great and then you have a compressor on board (to air your tires) and your lockers work above 15 mph and in both high and low range , not just low. The electrical swaybar disconnect is a joke, most guys replace it with manual knob. I could go on and on , but it is best if you weigh out your needs. As a car guy I think you would enjoy building your Jeep into what you need. PS don't call a Jeep a car, everytime you do they kill a kitten!!!!

I understand your point, but the Rubicon has the 4:1 t-case as well and if I get it with 4.10s, it should be geared low enough for most of what I want to do with it.

The Rubicon 44 does share the outers with the D30, but since the mid 90s the D30 has used the same u-joint that the old D44s. The only time they are really a problem is when you have the wheel turned hard over and are bouncing a front tire and that's not normally my driving style but I was considering the RCV front shafts for that anyways. ARBs are nice, but if you buy them, decent quality gears and install kits, and a cheap compressor, you're nearing $3k. Then you have to pay to get them installed or spend a weekend installing them yourself and you are left with a tiny D30 ring, pinion and shafts (smaller at the differential).

I used to be a real gear head, but I've gotten to the point that I want to go use my stuff rather than spend all my time building it. I can regear a sport, but I just don't have the desire to anymore. I've spent almost 8 years on my K5 and it's still a rusty old beater that I can't take on long trips or feel safe with the family in offroad. I just don't have the spare time to get into the big projects it needs when I could have my kids out at the campsite or be crawling down a trail.

I've been around off-roading, and cars in general, long enough to know what I want from a vehicle and I think what I have planned will fit the bill nicely. Plus, the Rubicon holds a little better resale value so should I change my mind in 5-10 years, the thing will still be worth $30k and should sell quick.

 

[9Mike2]

I am pointing out is the Rubi worth the difference? You will still have to lift, Wheels ,tires, Etc ,Etc... Before you pull the trigger check out the Wrangler Forum, You will find even the Rubi drivers end up regearing , 4.56 to 5.10 to even higher numbers. It is a matter of pick your poison.. Unless you plan on doing the Dusty Ershim or Swamp Lake or even Holcomb Creek/John Bull Trails, The T case will not make that big of a difference. It's you chose. I can only give you my expearance , and if you check with the guys on the Wrangler forum, there are many groups that can do gear changes even in your driveway and not too expensive..

I too can no longer do a lot of the stuff I use to do, I use to do complete rebuilds on the gear trains of 6x6 10 wheel drive Boom Trucks down to small alley way power equipment to install power poles. So I can see it from your view..It's just a lot of people only see the Rubi as a true Jeep, but you can build better. This is my Third Jeep, and I have had a 73 K5, a 82 Diesel Suburban 4x4 and Ford F150 extra cab 4x4.. It kills me sometimes that I can't do what I loved to do any more...

 

[boehml]

I understand your point, but the Rubicon has the 4:1 t-case as well and if I get it with 4.10s, it should be geared low enough for most of what I want to do with it.

The Rubicon 44 does share the outers with the D30, but since the mid 90s the D30 has used the same u-joint that the old D44s. The only time they are really a problem is when you have the wheel turned hard over and are bouncing a front tire and that's not normally my driving style but I was considering the RCV front shafts for that anyways. ARBs are nice, but if you buy them, decent quality gears and install kits, and a cheap compressor, you're nearing $3k. Then you have to pay to get them installed or spend a weekend installing them yourself and you are left with a tiny D30 ring, pinion and shafts (smaller at the differential).

I used to be a real gear head, but I've gotten to the point that I want to go use my stuff rather than spend all my time building it. I can regear a sport, but I just don't have the desire to anymore. I've spent almost 8 years on my K5 and it's still a rusty old beater that I can't take on long trips or feel safe with the family in offroad. I just don't have the spare time to get into the big projects it needs when I could have my kids out at the campsite or be crawling down a trail.

I've been around off-roading, and cars in general, long enough to know what I want from a vehicle and I think what I have planned will fit the bill nicely. Plus, the Rubicon holds a little better resale value so should I change my mind in 5-10 years, the thing will still be worth $30k and should sell quick.

Absolutely agree with the ring and pinion. I'd rather snap an axle shaft than blow your ring and pinion, so the D44 is better in that respect. Like @9Mike2 said though, the benefit of the 4:1 suites certain types of trips, more so than others. But it looks like you've got a good handle on your wants vs. needs.. Can't wait to see what you do with it :)

 

[Glenn]

I am pointing out is the Rubi worth the difference?

Yes...I have had CJ's, TJ's, YJ's in my 30 yrs offroad and there is NO JEEP to compare with a JK Rubicon. It is the most capable offroad vehicle off the showroom floor bar none! Stock it will take anything to school. The reason the guys regear is onbly for 37's and bigger tires. You truss that 44 and you will never look back ;)

 

[boehml]

Yes...I have had CJ's, TJ's, YJ's in my 30 yrs offroad and there is NO JEEP to compare with a JK Rubicon. It is the most capable offroad vehicle off the showroom floor bar none! Stock it will take anything to school. The reason the guys regear is onbly for 37's and bigger tires. You truss that 44 and you will never look back ;)

All the Wranglers perform the Rubicon trail stock, so I'd say they're all pretty capable. Great vehicle, can't go wrong :)

 

[Captain Chaos]

Yes...I have had CJ's, TJ's, YJ's in my 30 yrs offroad and there is NO JEEP to compare with a JK Rubicon. It is the most capable offroad vehicle off the showroom floor bar none! Stock it will take anything to school. The reason the guys regear is onbly for 37's and bigger tires. You truss that 44 and you will never look back ;)

I agree. I've owned 3 CJ2As, a Jeepster Commando, 2 YJs, an Xl, 2 Grands, and now this Jk Rubi. (that's just the Jeeps, not gonna name off everything) I researched all kinds of stuff before I purchased the JK, (except gear ratios! @Glenn lol). A lot of what I read in forums wasn't even correct, just reposted info from someone who "knows". Hell, according to the forums , the rims my 35s are wrapped around will NOT work. They work, and they work very well. Lower gears equal a weaker gear set in d44 and the d30. (smaller pinion gear). I don't care to count how many years experience I have, (birthday next week and I'm starting to fart a bit of dust). But I have run quite a few trails in Moab in a rented TJ sport with 33s, a lockrite, and possibly 3.23 gears. (Maybe 3.08). Driver experience gets a rig more places than 37s or 44s. @TerryD , buy what suits you. Don't look back, I can't wait to see the pics of your new ride, whatever it my be, Rubicon, Sport, or '82 chevette. .02c from the Lorax.

 

[Glenn]

It takes a lot to impress me and the Rubicons , well, they impress me. IMO, I have found that those forum folks and FB folks that normally knock the Rubicons, either have never been in one on a trail, or flat out cant afford one. What I have seen these rigs do, AND from what I have done with ours, all I can say is wow. I have 60k on my '13 and there have been some beat down miles in there and at times it is boring on the trail because it is so capable.
There are most definitely things you can do to any Sahara, X, Sport etc to get "there", but in the end? You will have a Rubicon ...

 

[9Mike2]

The Rubi owners are stout lot, but with just a locker in the rear, I have made it everywhere most of the ones here in low Cal go. I don't abuse my rig, and have a 30 in the front. As said above if you know how to drive you can do many things. I don't drive a Jeep that is just this side of a "King of Hammers" rig, I was pointing out that when does Mopar/FCA give away things at cost and not make as much money on a name as they can.. I have owned and used my 78 Cherokee Chief and XJ and loved both but needed a bigger vehicle for a growing family. But now if you look in front of the house there is Three JKs and one KL.....

 

[Seumas]

Hey All!

The site-moderating robot is telling me that I have to post a few times before I can post any links, so we'll see how this goes...

I shop around for Rubicons just for the heck of it because I am also curious about the new vs. used price differences. For example, KBB prices a 2015 Rubicon with most of the options and 35K miles at around $35,000. I've looked around and found actual vehicles that fit that example. New Rubicons can average around $45,000, so two or three years of mileage for a roughly $10K drop in price seems worthwhile --to me, anyway...