Steward I
Probably around 6k not including the truck. If I "finish" the build around 12k I'll feel pretty good. Of course, if I throw a diesel engine in there its going to raise that figure by a lot.
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RZFZJ80’s 97 Land Cruiser Build and Adventure Thread
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Influencer I
That is really good for what you got! Do you do all the work yourself?
I learned how to weld doing this project with a MIG welder. Now with a grinder and welder, I can just do almost anything. I wish I bought a TIG welder instead so I can also do Aluminum, but you learn to compromise.
On the fridge, I chose a Yacht fridge with a detached compressor, so I can mount it in the wheel well. It is not as fancy as the 4WD ones like National Luna but it is very efficient on the real estate in the vehicle. I noticed that these fridges take more then a 1/3 of the width of the vehicle, and we wanted to open a twin bed inside, so were very limited on choice. On the 30 days trip to AK, it worked great, and I can run it as a freezer or a fridge, but not both at the same time.
I learned how to weld doing this project with a MIG welder. Now with a grinder and welder, I can just do almost anything. I wish I bought a TIG welder instead so I can also do Aluminum, but you learn to compromise.
On the fridge, I chose a Yacht fridge with a detached compressor, so I can mount it in the wheel well. It is not as fancy as the 4WD ones like National Luna but it is very efficient on the real estate in the vehicle. I noticed that these fridges take more then a 1/3 of the width of the vehicle, and we wanted to open a twin bed inside, so were very limited on choice. On the 30 days trip to AK, it worked great, and I can run it as a freezer or a fridge, but not both at the same time.
Steward I
The truck came outfitted with a lot of equipment when I bought it which helped on total cost.
I enjoy projects and wrenching on my truck (for the most part) so I tend to do everything myself.
I also picked up a MIG welder and taught myself, although I’m not very good.
I enjoy projects and wrenching on my truck (for the most part) so I tend to do everything myself.
I also picked up a MIG welder and taught myself, although I’m not very good.
Steward I
Well, my 9 year old battery finally failed over the cold weekend and I replaced it with an AGM. Here's to 9 more years! (Hopefully...)
While I was in there I decided to relocate the washer bottle using Slee's kit and install an early FJ80 battery tray for the dual battery setup I'll eventually have. The older FJ80's had the battery on the opposite side so I was able to use all OE parts. I did have to trim the box a bit where it meets the radiator, but it was a fairly simple task.
When I finally got everything back together, the port installed alarm system went nuts blaring the horn and disabling the starter and I couldn't disable it. This is the 2nd time its happened and I decided it had to go! Easier said than done as it was very well ingrained to the vehicle harnesses. After pouring over the factory electrical diagrams I finally removed the whole rats nest and it fired right up. Good riddance!
The big downside now is that I no longer have keyless entry, but I have a project in the works for that...
While I was in there I decided to relocate the washer bottle using Slee's kit and install an early FJ80 battery tray for the dual battery setup I'll eventually have. The older FJ80's had the battery on the opposite side so I was able to use all OE parts. I did have to trim the box a bit where it meets the radiator, but it was a fairly simple task.
When I finally got everything back together, the port installed alarm system went nuts blaring the horn and disabling the starter and I couldn't disable it. This is the 2nd time its happened and I decided it had to go! Easier said than done as it was very well ingrained to the vehicle harnesses. After pouring over the factory electrical diagrams I finally removed the whole rats nest and it fired right up. Good riddance!
The big downside now is that I no longer have keyless entry, but I have a project in the works for that...
Influencer I
Was this the OEM alarm/remote entry? Mine seemed more ‘integrated’. I removed it too. Hated the idea that something is draining the battery when the car is parked for long period of times. No matter how little. :)
Steward I
Yeah it was the 'OEM' alarm which is actually port-installed because none of the US bound FJ80s came with an alarm system from Japan. I think there were 3 variations depending on where your truck arrived.
Did you end up replacing yours with something else or are you just manually locking the doors?
Influencer I
I just unplugged the box under the driver seat and removed the short ‘splice’ harness under the ignition key. Old fashioned key entry. :)
Mine still worked but I removed all the ‘computer boxes’ from the vehicle except the F/R/C lockers and cruise control.
It’s a manual transmission and the engine has 4 wires going to it.
Temp
Press
Oil level
Injector pump/RPM.
Mine still worked but I removed all the ‘computer boxes’ from the vehicle except the F/R/C lockers and cruise control.
It’s a manual transmission and the engine has 4 wires going to it.
Temp
Press
Oil level
Injector pump/RPM.
Member III
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Influencer I
I used the vehicle OEM schematic book and spent two days figuring out what is needed and what not. Has about 50 'sign here' lawyer's stickies all over the manual. The cruise control was tricky because it is getting signals from the automatic transmission. I had to fool it to think that it is not in P. Also, I converted the vehicle to part time and the ABS 'teeth' are hooked to the rotating axle not the brake disk, so the car lost the ABS. Got rid of this computer also...
Influencer I
By the way, I rebuilt the clutch using 75 ml (1.5 bottles) of Silicon oil. I used 15000 cst, but there are heavier weight if you want. There are YouTube videos how to do this. The tricky part is draining them, so you put the in the oven (when your wife is not home!!!) at a low temp (220F) with a pan under.
XCEED RC 103226 Rc Car Silicone DIff Oil 50ml 15,000 CST | eBay
Xceed Silicone Oil 50ml 15,000CST (1 pc). For: RC Differential.
www.ebay.com
Steward I
Yeah, it would be just about impossible to do any of this without the factory electrical diagrams.
Back when I used to own a Discovery people had leaked the schematics. Maybe the LR2 ones are out there.
Back when I used to own a Discovery people had leaked the schematics. Maybe the LR2 ones are out there.
Steward I
I read about the rebuilding process probably two days after I installed the modded one. I actually bought the oil and plan to rebuild the old one as a spare. Could have saved some money though for sure.
Steward I
Speaking of electrical, I took the opportunity to replace the factory speakers while everything was apart. Quite the difference!
Influencer I
My vehicle had 2 additional amps and 8 speakers. Removed it all and installed new only two in the front doors and replaced the radio with CarPlay®. The speakers had only the magnets left after 25 years. No wonder the radio sounded so bad.
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Good call on that battery! I run the same one in my WJ. Almost went with a NorthStar like many recommend on here, but the lack of availability scared me off if there was ever a failure. AutoZone's are everywhere and a quick warranty replacement is little hassle.
Steward I
Exactly my thought process. Parts availability seems to be a commonly overlooked factor. You'll find an AutoZone in practically any town should an issue arise.
Steward I
I made some progress on my new keyless entry system last night, after pouring over the factory electrical diagrams for hours. This is something I have wanted to do since I bought the truck and, now that the factory system is out, I decided to dive in.
I want an integrated remote/key solution like my wife's 2018 Tacoma, but unfortunately that just doesn't exist for the 80 series. I briefly looked into transplanting the factory system from a 100 series into my truck, but it uses signals from too many ECUs and would be impossible to program. I also definitely don't want an alarm or immobilizer system.
After quote a bit of searching, I found and bought an integrated keyless entry system on Aliexpress, but it had the wrong blank attached. Once it arrived I opened it up, cut the blank out, and used it as a template to modify an existing key. After a bit of fine tuning everything went back together and I had an integrated fob with the correct key! I also transplanted the Toyota logo and decal from a previous failed project and ended up with a factory looking setup.
Unsurprisingly, the keyless entry system didn't come with a pin-out, so I spent hours with a multi-meter and 12v inverter testing out all the different combinations. I also learned that the factory Toyota system uses a switched ground. Fun! I currently have the lock function working, but the unlock function appears to need 2 diodes to trigger 2 pulsed unlock wires which apparently is some type of security measure in Toyota's wiring. I also need to wire up a relay for the negatively switched flashers. Here is the control unit mounted with some 3D printed brackets.
Oh, and I installed the Wits End ashtray switch panel. It currently holds the USB for the Apple CarPlay connection.
I want an integrated remote/key solution like my wife's 2018 Tacoma, but unfortunately that just doesn't exist for the 80 series. I briefly looked into transplanting the factory system from a 100 series into my truck, but it uses signals from too many ECUs and would be impossible to program. I also definitely don't want an alarm or immobilizer system.
After quote a bit of searching, I found and bought an integrated keyless entry system on Aliexpress, but it had the wrong blank attached. Once it arrived I opened it up, cut the blank out, and used it as a template to modify an existing key. After a bit of fine tuning everything went back together and I had an integrated fob with the correct key! I also transplanted the Toyota logo and decal from a previous failed project and ended up with a factory looking setup.
Unsurprisingly, the keyless entry system didn't come with a pin-out, so I spent hours with a multi-meter and 12v inverter testing out all the different combinations. I also learned that the factory Toyota system uses a switched ground. Fun! I currently have the lock function working, but the unlock function appears to need 2 diodes to trigger 2 pulsed unlock wires which apparently is some type of security measure in Toyota's wiring. I also need to wire up a relay for the negatively switched flashers. Here is the control unit mounted with some 3D printed brackets.
Oh, and I installed the Wits End ashtray switch panel. It currently holds the USB for the Apple CarPlay connection.
Influencer I
Steward I
Steward I
Not much to report recently. Got the keyless unlock circuit sorted, but still need to wire a relay for the flashers.
I also installed the optional rear wind deflector. The PO ripped it off somehow and plugged the holes with a sloppy fiberglass job. Finding the deflector was the hardest part. It took me over 2 months to source the parts...
I also installed the optional rear wind deflector. The PO ripped it off somehow and plugged the holes with a sloppy fiberglass job. Finding the deflector was the hardest part. It took me over 2 months to source the parts...
