Overland Weight reduction

Since I still have my rear seat in 4dr, my bags sit in the rear footwell and the top of part of the back seat locks them in place, they mold around the seat brackets well, but I've used the Strachit from Front Runner as well as crossed tie downs in previous setups in the bag of my 2dr. Since you removed the carpet on yours, it'd be fairly easy to install extra tie down points where you want them. There's grommets and two side cords on the dromedary that provide several attachment options.
Thanks, very helpful. Looking forward to trying both configurations.
 
I currently use heavy Hutchinson wheels on my Rig
See thread:
https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/beedlocks-for-overlanding.7811/

I love these, when I'm doing extremely technical off roading, in remote areas. For the next many months, I'm going to be enjoying the Beauty of the USA, where we are never more then a few hours from a Starbucks.

I have chosen to mount my 285/70R17 AT on much lighter wheels. I chose AEV Salta wheels.
View attachment 29959
Per AEV they way 22lbs each. That is a 21lbs weight savings, compared to my current per wheel weight of 43lbs.

I'm also going with a smaller tire:

My current tire is Goodyear Duratrac 315/70R17 at 60lbs
I'm changing to Goodyear Duratrac 285/70R17 at 54lbs

This will net me a total of 135lbs reduction in my rig. With smaller tires, my fuel economy and range should improve.

The wheels just arrived today, so they will get mounted to the tires this weekend.
View attachment 29961
I will keep the other wheels and tires in storage, for when I need them. I will post the before and after photos when the swop is complete.
Before:
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After:
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reduction of unsprung weight, should improve performance and MPG. I will be doing the chalk test, to adjust my tire preasure, this weekend. Getting ready for some long road trips, with only moderate technical trails.
 

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Thanks for the suggestion, that's a very compelling argument. I just ordered 4 of the 10L MSR Dromedary bag's. I will try both systems out, and see which ones work the best for me. Do you have any recommendations on methods to secure the bags. One of the reasons I like the FR option, is that its rigid, and should be easy to strap down. How did you tie the soft bags down?
10 liter is 2.6 gallons right? Home depot and Lowes have some good 3 gallon buckets that stack and can be repurposed while camping. They also stack inside each other when the water is used.

...or milk crates. They hold 4 gallons in a stackable, rugged, multi-purpose design that also fits standard propane tanks. Down side is there is no downsizing when the contents are used.
 
10 liter is 2.6 gallons right? Home depot and Lowes have some good 3 gallon buckets that stack and can be repurposed while camping. They also stack inside each other when the water is used.

...or milk crates. They hold 4 gallons in a stackable, rugged, multi-purpose design that also fits standard propane tanks. Down side is there is no downsizing when the contents are used.[/QUOTE)

Thanks
 
I'm just saving to replace my 1FZ-FE with an LS3. It should save a couple hundred pounds and more importantly solve my only real issue.
 
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In my attempt to reduce weight on my JK, I purchased a HiLift aluminum jack handle. I know this is probably frivolous, but every bit of weight savings adds up. Once it arrives, I will do a short review, in the Forum review section. I will link it back to this thread for continuity.

View attachment 28604
After waiting what I feel is a very long time, my aluminum Hi-Lift handle arrived today. I will do a review, once I'm able to do some comparisons.
 
I think it is more common for people that live outside large metropolitan areas.
I used to keep a second set of seasonal tires (studded snows) when I lived out in the sticks as I had steep gravel switchback roads to traverse daily. It was that or chain up frequently vs occasionally. I still have them honestly, but as I upgrade to my new larger tires and suspension I will be getting rid of the extra sets. I'm fortunate in that I only live 2.1 miles from work now and have a motorcycle or bicycle to ride in nicer weather. My issue living in town with the extras is where to store them and people just look at you weird with studded tires in town. I'll keep my monster ladder chains for when it gets super nasty. This is one thing I will not compromise weight for on my Tundra. Smaller lighter vehicles can get by with the fancier chains but full size trucks need the old school ladder chains IMHO and they are heavy.
 
I have the bikepacker/backpacker mindset when it comes to weight. First off, I assess the need for a particular piece of gear. If I don't need it, then I won't bring it. Usually this takes place while packing and on shakedown trips. I also try and go lightweight and small if possible. Certain things you just can't do without, regardless of weight or size. There are also certain luxury items that I prefer to bring along, but that's kept to a minimum. I do not compromise when it comes to safety or my rig. Granted, my trips are usually a weekend long, about 3-4 days total. If I was doing anything longer or anything more remote, my thinking might change. Since I roll solo usually while Overlanding, I tend to take more gear. If I was with a group, I can guarantee that we wouldn't all bring a stove, coffee maker, big cooler, etc. since generally we can get away with sharing. This is how I would bikepack/backpack too in order to save weight and share the load. But again, there are certain things you just cannot compromise on. I also try to find gear that can serve more than one purpose/use if possible.
 
I have never backpacked, but I've read quite a bit and think similarly when choosing overland gear. I want to be self-contained without the need for a trailer. I like to choose things that are lightweight, compact, and that have multiple uses.
 
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My travels tend to be with just my significant other, and myself. We fold down the back seat, and pack gear on top of it. I'm thinking about removing the back seat all together this weekend. Has any one else removed their back seat, for weight reduction, or to make room for gear?
I have removed my back seat...I don't need to haul kids and it took up precious cargo space. The fact that it reduced weight was a bonus!
 
I have removed my back seat...I don't need to haul kids and it took up precious cargo space. The fact that it reduced weight was a bonus!

I remove mine whenever I go out for more than a day. I have a 2 door JK and it’s a piece of cake to remove.


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Before:
View attachment 30675
After:
View attachment 30676
reduction of unsprung weight, should improve performance and MPG. I will be doing the chalk test, to adjust my tire preasure, this weekend. Getting ready for some long road trips, with only moderate technical trails.

Jeff,

Looks like it's been a while since you put the smaller/lighter wheels and tires on, I'm very interested on how much of difference did you notice with MPG, Performance, drive-ability, etc... I'm still running the Stock KMs and will soon need to replace them, I keep trying to talk myself out of going big by reading threads like this. Love the look of large tires, but I'm not concerned with Rock Crawling and I'm finding it seems once you remove that out of the equation, the only benefits of 35 + tires are the looks.
 
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Specifically to save weight (avoid adding it) - we don't take anything not needed, at least in the sense that there are other ways to do the job, or the risk if needing something is very low - so no High-lift jack (two bottle jacks), no "bull bar" (driving appropriately to reduce the risk), minimal kitchen kit, no long range built-in fuel tank (on the few occasions we need extra fuel we use plastic fuel cans, empty as much as possible), no skid plates (drive to the conditions), lightweight shovel,

Not specifically to save weight, but does keep weight down - synthetic winch cable, tyres close to original size, minimal clothing
 
I have a mixed bag on this, I like to keep the weight in check, but being a pickup means that if the tail is too light then I have a ride like an excited jackrabbit and less traction, so it is a precarious process and careful loading to create a good ride and keep the weight in check. I think this would be true for most full sized trucks. Trucks by nature are designed to be carrying a load on their suspension. Great info on the equipment ideas though, keep them coming.
 
I went through the same evaluation earlier this year. Went through all camping gear bins and basically put all essentials together vs. nice to have in other bins. Saved a lot of space and weight, but added some with the mods lol.
 
It is a consideration for me. One thing I did this year was go through all the kitchen gear. I was carrying enough plates, cups, mugs and cutlery for 4-6 people when it was my wife and I 99% of the time. We swapped out our stainless french press for a plastic one. We also realized we were always carrying paper plates as well as plastic ones, Tons of plastic forks, multiple rolls of tin foil and many other things. Also, on solo trips, I pare that down even more and only bring one set of things for myself. All of this is only a pound here and a pound there, but, it all helps. Also, fewer items = more room in the rig.

I also pared down my tools. I take no SAE sockets or wrenches. My Nissan had no SAE fasteners, so, extra unneeded weight.

My wife and I sleep on cots in our tent and have a pair of heavy Coleman units. We plan to replace those with lighter Motorcycle camping ones.

Lastly, I always go through all my gear before a trip and make decisions on what goes and what gets left home. Campground? no need for my folding table. Is it just me? no tent and cot, I'll sleep in the truck.

I started camping with the motorcycle camping/backpacking gear. I still pack like I have 2 panniers and a tank bag. Consider 2 sets of clothes and washing one set. Splayds instead of separate silverware, nesting aluminum kitchenware (GSI), and multitools over multiple tools. 2 adjustable wrenches can replace a lot of sockets.