Overland Suspension

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Maul Crawler

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Looking for advice on upgrading the suspension on my 2 door jk. Currently I have the 2.5 AEV Dual Sport lift and have no complaints aside from the sag and occasional rubbing on the back when fully loaded (100lbs dog, 1-2 Jerry cans and basic camping gear). We're looking at adding a RTT in the near future so im anticipating even further sag then. I'm looking into possibly going with the Metalcloak 3.5 Game Changer. Here are some pictures of the current 2.5 lift..sorry I know they aren't the best. Thanks in advanced for the advice!
 

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MazeVX

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What tire size are you running? Stock rims have a really bad offset and will rub with bigger tires no matter what lift height. You can add a good quality wheel spacer just to try.
Metalcloak springs are not ideal for carrying heavy loads as well as the aev aren't...
Teraflex has springs in Overland spec which are stiffer and good for heavy loads, Clayton offroad springs are said to be very good at load handling as well and I use the Rubicon express springs and have no complaints.
Basically every linear rate spring will perform better under load then progressive or multi rate springs, your aev are dual rate springs, metalcloak also...
I would change to a linear spring and different wheels or wheel spacers and maybe add a spring spacer to level if required, you can also take a look at the sumosprings from supersprings.
Sumosprings and spacers are just bandaids and should be used with care.
 
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Maul Crawler

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What tire size are you running? Stock rims have a really bad offset and will rub with bigger tires no matter what lift height. You can add a good quality wheel spacer just to try.
Metalcloak springs are not ideal for carrying heavy loads as well as the aev aren't...
Teraflex has springs in Overland spec which are stiffer and good for heavy loads, Clayton offroad springs are said to be very good at load handling as well and I use the Rubicon express springs and have no complaints.
Basically every linear rate spring will perform better under load then progressive or multi rate springs, your aev are dual rate springs, metalcloak also...
I would change to a linear spring and different wheels or wheel spacers and maybe add a spring spacer to level if required, you can also take a look at the sumosprings from supersprings.
Sumosprings and spacers are just bandaids and should be used with care.
Thank you, I'm glad you brought that up. I was thinking that the dual rate would be better for a heavier load but I understand what you are saying.

Also, I had wheel spacers but still had a little rub now im running a wheel with -12 offset with 37's.
 

MOAK

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Old Man Emu provides more bang for the buck than anyone else. Contact their USA headquarters for great advice in choosing the correct spring rate for your needs. I’ve a ‘96 cruiser now and in a previous life an ‘04 Rubicon and will not even consider a company that uses the term “lift kit”. You need a suspension upgrade to handle more weight, the lift is secondary. I know that for a Jeep TJ their “ heavy “ kit helped our TJ to stay level, even when loaded down with gear, with a trailer and gave us about 2” more clearance for the 255/85/16s. I say “helped” because it still sagged a bit. The cruiser has 2850Js up front & 2864s in the rear getting our spring rate up near 7,500 lbs. It doesn’t sag at all and it gives an average 3” of increased clearance over stock.
 

MazeVX

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Thank you, I'm glad you brought that up. I was thinking that the dual rate would be better for a heavier load but I understand what you are saying.

Also, I had wheel spacers but still had a little rub now im running a wheel with -12 offset with 37's.
So with 37s you might want to go to 3,5" lift, preferably a lift kit with the right bumpstop extensions and so on. Takes lots of guess-work out of it.
 

OTH Overland

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We have a JKU and after much deliberation went with the Teraflex 3 inch Outback suspension with the Alpine fully adjustable control arms. Also the Falcon 3.3 adjustable shocks. Night and day difference from factory for sure, 90 percent of this is the shocks in my opinion (They do not do anything for load capacity, just ride quality) We are running 35 x 12.5 BFG (true size 34.5" I would not go any taller without changing driveshafts as the front is about maxed out with the factory rezeppa joint with the 3" lift. and steering geometry changes fast once over 3" on a JK. We are fully loaded 24/7 and therefore did not want dual rate springs. (dual rate springs have a lower spring rate 'soft' section that gives you a nice ride when empty and the rest of the spring takes up the work when loaded down, single rate springs maintain the same spring rate throughout the travel). Two areas on our JK at the rear have potential for rub depending on the trim and options the Jeep has. We have factory rock rails and metal rear bumper, both extend much closer to the tire than I would like, It is possible to trim a bit of the slider off and still get the end cap back on, but there is still a pinch seam behind the slider that will dig into the tire at some point. (adjustable arms can move the axle back a bit if needed, just watch the angle on the spring and driveshaft length) the bigger problem is the plastic end cap on the bumper that flows into the stock plastic fender, full compression to the bump stop causes some rubbing there. Now that we have ditched the plastic fenders for some full coverage aluminum ones there is much more room in the wheel well and we plan on removing the end caps and installing mud flaps up tight to the exposed opening on the rear bumper where the end caps were.

Our JK is just a bit over 6,000 pounds with equal weight on all four tires. we have about 220 pounds on the roof including tent, rack and awning, which you can definitely feel. Added a heavy duty trackbar on the front and rear, Hellwig sway bar on the rear and running the shocks on firm for highway travel greatly improved its manners.

Strongly suggest weighing all four corners of your rig in both normal and loaded configurations and then provide that information to your suspension company of choice to see what they recommend. Now that we have run ours for a while, I am planning to talk to some spring suppliers and see about getting an increased spring rate for the rear and or a slightly longer spring. I could add airbags but do not feel they are suitable for long term loaded off road conditions. if you run heavy a lot, need to keep an eye on the rear upper spring perches on the JK's as they can get some cracks if bottomed out a lot.

Super happy with Terraflex so far, they have great service and seem to build a great product, only issue is the rear springs not quite enough for my particular use. I do believe that Clayton might have a slightly higher spring rate but not sure. A lot of 'lift lit' companies do not provide the actual spring rates for their products, and were eliminated from my search..
 

Maul Crawler

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Wow, good information for sure!

Yeah, I was looking at 3.5 inch to counter the sag but if a single rate will help with that I can back down to 2.5 or 3 inch. Currently not weighted the 2.5 lift, flat Fenders and pinch seam/ rock rail trim and 37s preforms perfectly. But looking at outfitting more for camping/overlanding rather than just offroading I'm interested in trying a lift that isn't dual rate, based on the advice.
 
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MOAK

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Wow, good information for sure!

Yeah, I was looking at 3.5 inch to counter the sag but if a single rate will help with that I can back down to 2.5 or 3 inch. Currently not weighted the 2.5 lift, flat Fenders and pinch seam/ rock rail trim and 37s preforms perfectly. But looking at outfitting more for camping/overlanding rather than just offroading I'm interested in trying a lift that isn't dual rate, based on the advice.
So, a set of rear springs from OME cost around 250 bucks. Just swap in the rears