Opinions wanted on practicality of towing a trailer.

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MOAK

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Welcome ! @smritte and I have a lot in common as far as vehicle choices and trailers. I've been pulling trailers my entire life and an off road trailer since 2009. We generally set up a basecamp and explore from there, which leaves plenty of stowage space in the vehicle and plenty of roomyness at camp. The cost of even the cheapest "off road" trailer is stupid silly. The least expensive I have seen starts at over $15,000. Mine started as a Tractor Supply/CarryOn 4x6 utility trailer. Al that is left of it is the flimsy original frame, the floor grate, the registration and the title. Everything has been upgraded, 3500lb axle, 285 tires, LX 450 wheels, pintle hook, water tanks, water pump, kitchen propane etc etc, and the frame has been re-enforced with 2x2 with a rack up top to support the tent. It was in the works for 8 years, fine tuning the thing to be, - handy. The deck sits a full 24" off the ground, the COG is very low because of the 2x2 used to build the bottom out. Which enable the trailer to probably go more places than my truck can. Occasional rock crawling? No problem, hundreds of miles of washboard roads? No problem. My B-I-L rented a top of the line "off road" teardrop/square back trailer a few years ago. The thing was only a year old, and falling apart. I was amazed at how the company really cheaped out on fasteners, fit and finish. Flimsy, come to mind. ( example. the camplux water heater was mounted outside the trailer, in a pelican case bolted to the side of the trailer, however, nothing was done to beef up the attaching points to mount the heater itself. The tin was ripped and the heater just bouncing around in there. The rear kitchen area wasn't any less flimsy ) For 25 or 30 K one should not have to go around and rebuild everything. I would recommend that you build your own trailer. You'd have 10 times the trailer, built to suit your current needs and can be modified, as you go along, with the growth of your family. Two daughters? Gotta keep them comfortable in the vehicle and at camp. I'll see if I can find a good shot of our trailer.

IMG_1536.jpegDSC03604.JPG
 

Outdoordog

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I thought about an offeoading camper as well, but have seen them fail on the trails too many times.
Usually axle failures.
I would not use them on any trails, maybe a fire road that's mostly flat.
 
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MOAK

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I thought about an offeoading camper as well, but have seen them fail on the trails too many times.
Usually axle failures.
I would not use them on any trails, maybe a fire road that's mostly flat.
That would be why one would install a solid axle rated for a least twice the weight of the loaded trailer, ditch the ball hitch and re enforce spring mounts & frames.
 

smritte

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I thought about an offeoading camper as well, but have seen them fail on the trails too many times.
Usually axle failures.
On another post I commented on how most of the off road trailers are being built. You have a trailer company taking a light weight trailer, adding off road tires and selling it as an off road trailer. Street trailers are built to haul weight. If you buy a trailer rated for 3500 pounds, you get 3500 pound axle and springs. If the gross weight of that trailer is 1800 pounds, its fine on the street but once it hits dirt it tends to bounce hard.
Next is using undersized axles and not bracing for lateral forces. The list goes on. People also dont understand proper trailer maintenance.

"Overlanding" trailers got very popular 7-10 years ago. In the groups of people that I've traveled with that have bought trailers, I was dismayed regarding the overall build quality. It's also hard to try and tell someone that the trailer they spent 25k on should not be taken on anything short of graded dirt roads. I also cring when I see people using very old, rusted, undersized axle frame combo's while building trailers.

On the other hand my trailer has run Rubicon, Dusy. You tag shows your from Big Bear. My former Jeep club built Holcomb Creek Trail a long time ago. My M-100 was used to haul gear and sometimes rock down that trail many times over the decades.

I totally agree with your statement about seeing them fail. This is why, in my opinion, people should be very careful choosing an off road trailer. This is also why I build my own.
 

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On another post I commented on how most of the off road trailers are being built. You have a trailer company taking a light weight trailer, adding off road tires and selling it as an off road trailer. Street trailers are built to haul weight. If you buy a trailer rated for 3500 pounds, you get 3500 pound axle and springs. If the gross weight of that trailer is 1800 pounds, its fine on the street but once it hits dirt it tends to bounce hard.
Next is using undersized axles and not bracing for lateral forces. The list goes on. People also dont understand proper trailer maintenance.

"Overlanding" trailers got very popular 7-10 years ago. In the groups of people that I've traveled with that have bought trailers, I was dismayed regarding the overall build quality. It's also hard to try and tell someone that the trailer they spent 25k on should not be taken on anything short of graded dirt roads. I also cring when I see people using very old, rusted, undersized axle frame combo's while building trailers.

On the other hand my trailer has run Rubicon, Dusy. You tag shows your from Big Bear. My former Jeep club built Holcomb Creek Trail a long time ago. My M-100 was used to haul gear and sometimes rock down that trail many times over the decades.

I totally agree with your statement about seeing them fail. This is why, in my opinion, people should be very careful choosing an off road trailer. This is also why I build my own.
@smritte,
I have no experience seeing or using an offroad trailer on a trail, however I am in the construction/mechanical world. I like to think I have some understanding of build quality and that mechanical systems are a balance of correctly sized/rated components. I went to a popular expo last fall to check some of these trailers out. I don't want to offend anyone...but IMO, I was not impressed by most of the products. A select few looked well engineered but came in way too heavy for my tow rig, intended use and or wallet.

Do you have any experience or opinions on the popular rubber pad type suspension systems? They look to my untrained eye as if they would bounce all over the place and not offer good rebound control (no shocks)...not to mention most seamed oversized for the application. What is your opinion of a torsion axel if sized and rated correctly? Do they have rebound control issues? Some of the manufactures seam to use overrated axels/spindles and then de-rate the rubber pads (axel-less type) and or bands (torsion type). Am I misunderstanding how they work or are they bouncing around significantly compared to a more traditional spring and shock system?

Do you have an opinion on the quality of the (going to use code here) overseas made offroad cargo trailer sold by a popular offroad Amercian Co? It seems to check a lot of boxes. It has lockable side and rear entry doors, independent suspension with Shocks and springs, breaks, hand break. room for large wheels and what appears to be a proper frame. I feel it would be a good fit for me to kit out. I agree building my own would be best, but time is a commodity I'm lacking in these days...not to mention welding skills.

please dm me if you'd rather chat about things that way.
 

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I'm in the trailer camp, not purchased but home built. From watching videos and my own camping experience, I believe we will be doing less "overlanding" and more "short trip to the next campsite and hanging out." So in a 3 night, 4 day trip, we'll have only 2 sites. Having a camper will allow us to take nearby off-roading / exploratory trips and leave a basecamp. This is all while we have kids who aren't sleeping in the camper. Hope the wife and I can become more overlandy as they move on. Even if we do, I cannot imagine justifying the $52K price tag some of those expedition campers have. Even if I could afford it...

I'm currently building my 2nd teardrop (even though this one is square,) and using significantly beefier torsion axles with brakes. 3,500 lb axles, brakes, and an articulating hitch. Current "dry" weight is ~850 lbs, but it's maybe 2/3's built so far...? I suspect final weight, with food and water and all that, will be in the 2,500 - 3,000 lb range, maybe even including a Kawasaki 300 on the back. smritte mentioned bounce but tire pressure is a big factor in trailer ride. I suspect my axles are doing to move nearly as much as the less inflated tires. Especially if I don't have the bike on. Not sure how much pressure I'll use yet. Maybe 30?

tnttt.com has a plethora of information on home-built teardrops. Can't say there are a lot of expedition-level builds there but there are a lot of ideas.
 

William_18185d

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It looks like you've already got lots of good advice about trailering. My wife and I are in our mid-60s and have towed a Gnome Home Yukon Off-road Teardrop Trailer behind a 2018 4Runner steady for the past two years. Generally speaking, the trailer with 23" of ground clearance (or any good off-road trailer) will go ANYWHERE the 4Runner can go. It comes from the small factory in Sherwood Park (Near Edmonton, AB), costs only $21,600 base price (which includes a lot--and it is not even real money, it's Canadian money!), includes a Max Coupler and has great balancing jacks (they are real jacks on the Off-road Yukon), so there is no need for a Jack-all or even a bottle-jack to change a flat tire. It is 5' by 9' in dimensions (excluding the wheel-wells) and is the same width as the 4Runner so there is no need for trailering mirrors. Also it is so short that there is no in-tracking when you turn or do tight curves. The frame (including the wheel-wells--which you can stand on to access stuff on the roof; the builder states that they are perfect for knocking down saplings--I know, I know; stay on the trail!) is made of square galvanized steel. One of the great things about a tear-drop trailer is that you don't need to be afraid of the weather. I was watching a Justin B. McBride video (on YouTube) where he and friends were camped in their RTTs on a high overlook outside Zion Nat'l Park. You should have seen them all fill their pants (rhetorically speaking) when a lightning storm approached. They could not get out of their roof-top perches fast enough! On the other hand, you said that you have kids; then you can put a RTT on the trailer for them (or on your tow-vehicle for the few short trips that you don't take the trailer. Another advantage of a trailer, that many people overlook, is that it helps keep your tow vehicle under its GVWR. Stuff that is towed weighs only 10-20% (depending on your hitch weight) of what it weighs if it were on your tow vehicle. My wife actually prefers the Teardrop to the slide-in camper that we had on our one-ton dually truck because she doesn't have to climb up and down to do meal preparation; she just opens the back of the trailer, and voila, there is your kitchen. Yes, there are a couple of drawbacks to a trailer: (1) There will be a fuel penalty even with a small trailer. (2) A trailer makes overlanding somewhat more dangerous, for example on tight, twisty shelf roads; but the risk is manageable. Watch Trail Travelers doing White Rim Trail with a trailer (and many other overland travel videos with trailers). Are they conducive to extreme rock-crawling? No, but for anything short of that they are quite capable. (3) Another drawback--a small annoyance--is keeping the dirt from your shoes/feet off the bed as you get in. (4) Short trailers jack-knife very quickly when backing up (while being rock solid when towed forward). So backing up takes a little practice. Finally, if you are off-roading, don't buy a non-off road trailer; they just won't stand up to the abuse. For example, Gnome Homes sells decent Hwy tear-drop trailers for a few thousand dollars less, but they don't have high clearance, off-road couplers, you can't stand on the wheel-wells, nor are the road tires designed for airing down if you go off-road. Would we buy it again? Definitely. But I would add the following: (1) a good inverter; (2) a built-in diesel heater; (3) an 11-lb propane bottle carrier (instead of a 5-lb one); and (4) a dedicated spare-tire (We currently carry a wheel spacer so that we can use the spare 33" tire & wheel off the 4Runner (which does not have enough back-spacing otherwise).
 

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reaver

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I thought about an offeoading camper as well, but have seen them fail on the trails too many times.
Usually axle failures.
I would not use them on any trails, maybe a fire road that's mostly flat.
ive taken my current traiiler on MANY trails. Many of them rocky, and not something I'd recommend for a Subaru. I've not once had a failure of the axle or springs.

The key is balancing your load, spring rates, and axle durability. For example, my current 4x6 trailer weighs roughly 2500 lbs, fully loaded. It has a 3500lb axle on it, with springs that are rated to carry abould 3500 lbs.

My new trailer has a 2500lb axle (with plans to upgrade to a 3500lb with brakes in the future), and 2500lb springs. After I finish building it, I plan on testing it thoroughly for a bit before taking it on any rough trails. There's a week long trip a friend of mine is planning for September, and if I can make that trip, the trailer will go with me. That will be a reality good test for everything.
 

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To @William_18185d's point on spare tires... why the heck do so many small campers not have their own spare tire?! My new camper build will be able to share a spare with the towing truck, but I'll still have one for both. At least put a freakin' donut on it!
 

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My feelings and I know I'll get flack for this, is you bought the wrong vehicle, as much as I like the new Bronco's they don't lend themselves to family camping trips. Unless you go with minimal gear like backpacking tents(yes 2, 1 for the parents, 1 for the kids) , sleeping pads, backpacking dried meals, etc.
I too had the wrong vehicle at first in the 70's and was fortunate to be able to get a larger one. Still needed to go the backpacking route with the exception of a double burner stove. Then I could take a cooler w/dry ice and have cold drinks and burgers and such.
Add kids to the issue and so much changes, clothes, toys and these days electronics. What ever you do it will be right for you! Just don't lose sight of making memories!

Now I am single and still pack light, I do have a trailer, a Land Rover tub, mainly for sitting in my driveway......

I am including a link to my trips to the Black Rock Desert with the family and friends before overlanding became a thing. We would spend a week in the desert.

And an image of my trailer when I first got it, (green) and one how it looks now(yellow).DSC00330.JPG109 n trailer.JPG
 

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Hi ya, Matt;
Have much in common (intro to offroading, business owner, 2 daughters 2 years apart, etc.), I'm just 25+ years further down the road from you.
My $.02 and regrets................
Put together MY setup based on my wishes/wants/goals. While it worked great for me, it didn't for our girls. They groused about this and that, I pushed them to conform.
If had to do over, I'd have made them a much bigger part of the setup plans. No, they wouldn't have gotten their indoor plumbing, but they'd have been happy being involved in what they could choose and making it their own.
You get 10 & 8 once........do better than me.
 
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About 12 years ago my wife 'surpised' me with a Manley ORV utility trailer for our growing camping adventures with junior. Driving a Defender 90, we made a couple trips to Death Valley with our 9 year old stuffed in the back with camping supplies piled high all around him. He enjoyed the first trip as all this was new, but heading back the next year with a growing boy the ride wasn't so exciting and complaints were coming from the back. That's when we knew a better solution was needed.
DSC07022.JPG
With the trailer plus a basket mounted on top instead of a roof tent, we had doubled our carrying capacity. It worked great, especially as we started doing trips with scouts. Eventually the trips turned mostly to father-son trips and the trailer wasn't a necessity as we could simply pile gear in back of the D-90 again.

So that's where I am now. Junior is in college, Mrs is not as keen on camping and sleeping on the ground anymore. When we do venture out we're mostly piling gear in back. I still have the trailer but contemplating whether I'll really need the extra capacity for gear without three passengers. As we start more overloading trips I'll soon have the answer.
 

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I hear you! I had just assumed that because my teardrop trailer and my 4Runner shared the same 6 x 5.5” bolt pattern that the spare on my Toyota would fit on the trailer; but then, I am no mechanic! Since we are headed to Utah on March 27th, I decided to see if my 33” spare would fit in the wheel-well of the trailer which has 31” tires. Tire size was not the problem. The problem was that my Toyota wheel (+12 offset) did not have enough backspacing—the tire came against the trailer wall before the studs were seated in the wheel-stud holes. I would have to get after-market rims for the 4Runner with at least a -12 offset (That would give another inch and a half backspacing) to use the spare off the Toyota as a spare for the trailer. Even then it would be tight. Another bag of cats is that often made-for-trailer wheels/rims run narrow; The Raceline Motorsports (840 Arsenal) wheels—that came standard on our off-road teardrop trailer—are only six inches wide on a six bolt pattern. Both the worn-out mud-terrain tires (Again, that came standard with the trailer.) and the Goodrich K02’s that we replaced them with call for a 7” wide rim minimum. Needless to say we will get a dedicated spare for the trailer ASAP. One more warning: A standard 4-sided tire-iron would not fit in the undersized bolt-holes on the trailer wheels—especially with the cap in the Center that covers the wheel bearing. It was necessary to use a deep socket with a short extension and a breaking bar to get the trailer wheel nuts off (and on again). I am so glad that I serviced my equipment in my yard (Yup—no garage) even though we were still enduring a Saskatchewan winter. I would not have wanted to learn what I did about my limited tools and my rig out on the trail. See you out there!
 
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William_18185d

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I thought about an offeoading camper as well, but have seen them fail on the trails too many times.
Usually axle failures.
I would not use them on any trails, maybe a fire road that's mostly flat.
I wouldn't want to offend anyone, but the "offroad" trailers with an actual axle between the wheels are not top of the line. For one, the existence of the axle compromises your actual ground clearance. Yet, at the same time, overlanders do convert old army trailers and such with great results and they hardly stick to gravel roads; they have learned to work with their trailers and the limitations they have. Perhaps the best setup for an offroad trailer suspension are independent torsion-bar (or something similar) suspensions mounted directly to either side of the trailer frame without a connecting axle. The suspension should have a 3500 lb weight rating (or bigger, for bigger trailers) and electric brakes. One does not think they need brakes until their "little" trailer is pushing their tow vehicle down a steep grade. Our tear-drop overland trailer weighs around 2000lbs (2800 loaded) and has 3500 lb axles and brakes. And yes, you will typically travel slower than other. Ronnie Dahl has some good trailering videos on YouTube.
 
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MidOH

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We off road, all kinds of street trailers.

The key is 3x more axle and tire than you need. And 2 spares.

"Offroad" trailers are just a catch phrase used to rip you off. Some might be built up nicer, but all are overpriced.

And don't put a huge deposit down. [That should be a sticky]
 

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I wouldn't want to offend anyone, but the "offroad" trailers with an actual axle between the wheels are not top of the line. For one, the existence of the axle compromises your actual ground clearance. Yet, at the same time, overlanders do convert old army trailers and such with great results and they hardly stick to gravel roads; they have learned to work with their trailers and the limitations they have. Perhaps the best setup for an offroad trailer suspension are independent torsion-bar (or something similar) suspensions mounted directly to either side of the trailer frame without a connecting axle. The suspension should have a 3500 lb weight rating (or bigger, for bigger trailers) and electric brakes. One does not think they need brakes until their "little" trailer is pushing their tow vehicle down a steep grade. Our tear-drop overland trailer weighs around 2000lbs (2800 loaded) and has 3500 lb axles and brakes. And yes, you will typically travel slower than other. Ronnie Dahl has some good trailering videos on YouTube.
No offense taken, but the thought that ground clearance is compromised? My axle has 16.5 inches of ground clearance, the tow vehicle has 10.5" at the differential and 13.5" at the axle. The axle is centered on a 6 ft deck that is 24" off of the ground. The trailer is not going to have any ground clearance problems unless it were to be towed with a truck that has portal axles. A good friend followed us for thousands of miles during the past two years and we followed him for thousands of miles over all sorts of terrain from washboard to highly technical tracks. Each was pulled with 80 series Landcruisers. Each trailer weighed just about 1500 pounds. There was zero difference in the way either trailer performed on road and on tracks/trails. He was amazed that mine didn't wander in heavy washboard and did not bounce around on other surfaces. Otherwise, I agree wholeheartedly with the rest of your statements.
 
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Hello,
I'm new here and have limited experience. I have been camping 3 or 4 times a year since High School (early 90's). My buddies and I had access to a mid 80's Toyota SR5 (not mine) that we'd take camping with a tarp, sleeping bags, a pack of hot dogs and some packs of mustard...and maybe some beer. For recovery equipment we had a Come-A-Long and an Axe. The three of us had a blast camping and driving the privet trails on a family friend's land in southeast Ohio. My other buddy acquired a POS jeep that was owned by about 3 different guys in high school. You had to be careful not to let your feet go through the holes in the floorboard. We beat the crap out of those vehicles and tested their limits as dumb young guy do. I was happy to take advantage of the fact that I had no skin in the game. I was amazed to see what they were willing to do with these things, especially my buddy driving his Dad's SR5. They both were very generous with letting me drive the rigs as well. Once the jeep died and my Buddies Father removed access to the truck after a broken windshield (basketball related) and dinged up finder (trial related), camping continued without the offroad fun. We did graduate from the lean-to to some bougee Coleman tents however.

Fast forward a few years later and a couple different friends got brand new jeeps. They had no desire to bet the crap out of them but wanted to hit some trails. I was invited to come along. I watched and helped them slowly mod their jeeps into more capable offroad trail rigs. We would tent camp around Ohio but found the trails are limited. As we started venturing to neighboring states and harder trails in the mid-west, they would again decide to add more lift, bigger tires, etc. I would help them install their new parts as I was the most mechanically inclined. Then they got into rock crawling. ROCKCRAWLING! What the hell is rock crawling? I said. Why don't you just drive faster and raise hell like me and the other boys used to do? It's great fun I said. They rightfully reminded me of the cost of their rigs and the fact they didn't want to destroy them with mud holes and bouncing off trees. Their logic was rock crawling was slower and more refined and therefor easier on the rigs. So slowly we would remove their second set of mods and add more "capable" mods. We would venture out east, west and hit jeep jamborees, Leadville Co, Holy Cross and Moab (sadly I missed that last one). I was well aware and grateful for the fact that I had no skin in the game and yet blessed enough to experience the time in the garage, camping and even some drive time.

As a side note: I also watched them loose the daily drivability of their jeeps and noted the talk of trailering the rigs instead of driving them to far away destinations. I also told myself if I ever get an offroad rig it will be a used beater and only build it once.

Fast forward 15-years and now I have a wife and two daughters (10 & 8). I have a small business and limited time for hobbies. I've also realized I have limited time to make memories with my family. So, I bought a 2-door Bronco with a manual transmission, factory 35'' tires and front and rear lockers (sasquatch package) that I use primarily work for Bathroom Remodelers. LET'S GO CAMPING!....Shoot, where do I put everything?

My first thought was buying a small trailer that is capable to being towed "off road". I was SHOCKED at the prices first of all. I've found some older M416 trailers (still shocked at those prices). I'm not yet totally there but am stating to except "the price is the price". Then I started wondering the practicality of actually taking a trailer on trails? Then started thinking about base camping and security of our crap from people and weather. Then I started thinking about Smitty-built Scouts and turtleback type trailers. Then started learning about the capabilities and limitations of independent suspension rigs (I have come to the conclusion to try and keep thigs as stock as possible...hopefully) Then started learning about Overlanding. Then started thinking of setting up camp every night just getting to national parks let alone while there. Then started thinking about "off-road" teardrops. Yet again I started thinking about how practical it is to actually drag a trailer on trails the Bronco can handle on its own (not crazily moded up). Then I started wondering do we really need a so called "Off-Road" teardrop if nobody truly drags them along on "moderately hard" trails? Should I just get a "normal" teardrop? Are we locked into base camping anyway with any trailer? If we hook up with other overlanders are they annoyed by someone dragging a trailer along? My goal was to not weigh down the Bronco with roof racks, RTT, hitch racks or swing out bumpers and then suspension upgrades. IMO all that weight makes the vehicle less capable both offroad and as a daily...but is "this is the way"?

My goal is to take the family out camping (which we do with normal family 3 row car). The boiled down issue is I want to now enjoy the capabilities of the Bronco on trails here on the "east coast / mid-west" and still fit all the stuff. I also would like to take a once or twice a year 7-10day overlanding trip with the family to see our country and parks and maybe offroad a bit too. I am also starting to realize the advantages of the quick set-up times Overlanders enjoy. I have "analyses paralysis" big time!

I guess I'm asking what experienced folks think? What limitations/advantages can I expect when towing these 4-types of trailers I'm kicking around (both "off-roading" and "Overlanding")?
1. M416 type trailer with fabricated secured lid.
2. Smitty built Scout with possibly a larger hardshell RTT
3. A proper "off-road" teardrop with a RTT
4. A cheaper mainstream teardrop. (which I may expect to get beat up a bit).

Is towing even a good idea? Is it generally accepted knowledge towing greatly limits you when overlanding in the USA?

Thank you for reading my ramblings and I appreciate your advice or thoughts. I know these are open ended questions. If this topic is beaten to death please point me to some good threads.
Yesterday we attended our first RV show and found a tandem travel trailer that we really like for many reasons. The tandem axle being the primary. But, it also has electric levelers which comes in at #2. The rest of the TT has all the other amenities we were looking for in the weight and price range.

I have a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder with 26,000 miles with factory installed towing package. This vehicle has a 5,000 lbs. towing capacity. The TT we found has UVW of 3800 lbs and has electric brakes. This is the Wildwood Xlite 171RBXL.

Now the question. If we are meticulous about loading tow vehicle and TT and do not exceed 800 lbs. - that would be 500 lbs in the Pathfinder and 300 lbs. in the trailer - would it be practical to tow this trailer safely with our vehicle? We would not be exceeding the tow capacity of the Pathfinder.
 

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Yesterday we attended our first RV show and found a tandem travel trailer that we really like for many reasons. The tandem axle being the primary. But, it also has electric levelers which comes in at #2. The rest of the TT has all the other amenities we were looking for in the weight and price range.

I have a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder with 26,000 miles with factory installed towing package. This vehicle has a 5,000 lbs. towing capacity. The TT we found has UVW of 3800 lbs and has electric brakes. This is the Wildwood Xlite 171RBXL.

Now the question. If we are meticulous about loading tow vehicle and TT and do not exceed 800 lbs. - that would be 500 lbs in the Pathfinder and 300 lbs. in the trailer - would it be practical to tow this trailer safely with our vehicle? We would not be exceeding the tow capacity of the Pathfinder.
Short answer? I sure wouldn't.

500 lbs in the Pathy? That including the "we" and everything else in there? A quick search reveals a half-decent payload (more than I figured, honestly), but 400+ of that will be taken up by the tongue weight of a 4100-lb loaded trailer. So, realistically, you're going to be under GCVR, but nearly the limit of the towing rating. You're going to be struggling on anything but flat road with a tailwind, IMO while Carolina Squatting and illuminating the treetops with your headlights ;) At a minimum (and maybe you already have these), I'd have air bags for the rear suspension and a healthy respect for both the gas and brake pedal.

I see the trailer has a 40 gal freshwater tank...that's 250 lbs of water. How much of that 300 lb is water? Dishes...bedding...your shore power cable...propane...etc, etc, will all add up and I'm sure bust 300 lb really quickly. If you're taking really easy and short trips...sure...I guess? But I wouldn't do it with that vehicle.