Influencer II
Millertime's No ifs ands or buts
- Thread starter Damil
- Start date
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- Tags
- 1982 toyota pick up
I appreciate it guys!
Just finished the rear tire carrier, I will be posting pics some time today.
As far as my $2000 a yearly allowance, ive finally hit my max. Thankfully, in just a few days, the new year will start! But I think its safe to say that a lot of the heavy hitter items have been done. I am actually ahead of schedule on where I thought I would be during this time. One of the biggest items for the coming year will be installing the ARB rear locker.
Also, my inspection is due in February, so I really need to get the horn and lights hooked up to make this thing DOT compliant again.
Just finished the rear tire carrier, I will be posting pics some time today.
As far as my $2000 a yearly allowance, ive finally hit my max. Thankfully, in just a few days, the new year will start! But I think its safe to say that a lot of the heavy hitter items have been done. I am actually ahead of schedule on where I thought I would be during this time. One of the biggest items for the coming year will be installing the ARB rear locker.
Also, my inspection is due in February, so I really need to get the horn and lights hooked up to make this thing DOT compliant again.
Purchased a second hand poison spyder tire carrier for a good price, built for a TJ.
There are a few issues with the carrier, firstly being that it has a gigantic pecker bar that sticks up super tall... even more tall on my short bodied toyota bed.... The second issue is that the tire is designed to lay back on the carrier, which allows you to put just about any tire size in the carrier, the only problem is that it looks stupid IMO. And the last issue are the upper arms that hug the tire are designed to fit a 42" tire, so they go wayyyy out and around, which look fine with a 42" tire, but a 35" tire make these arms look ridiculous.
So, I ended up cutting off the top bar, and bringing it way down. I also cut the arms 2" short before the bend to hug smaller tires like a 38". Then I had to extend them to make it back to the body. I also made a plate to push the center of the tire upright instead of leaning back. The tire is bolted, but I am also utilizing the strapping system to keep everything tight and secure.
And the finished product...
There are a few issues with the carrier, firstly being that it has a gigantic pecker bar that sticks up super tall... even more tall on my short bodied toyota bed.... The second issue is that the tire is designed to lay back on the carrier, which allows you to put just about any tire size in the carrier, the only problem is that it looks stupid IMO. And the last issue are the upper arms that hug the tire are designed to fit a 42" tire, so they go wayyyy out and around, which look fine with a 42" tire, but a 35" tire make these arms look ridiculous.
So, I ended up cutting off the top bar, and bringing it way down. I also cut the arms 2" short before the bend to hug smaller tires like a 38". Then I had to extend them to make it back to the body. I also made a plate to push the center of the tire upright instead of leaning back. The tire is bolted, but I am also utilizing the strapping system to keep everything tight and secure.
And the finished product...
Doing well. I really have no idea how old it is. I bought it second hand for $80, originally sitting on a nissan pick up. But I have absolutely no problems with it and it is hands down one of my favorite add ons. It is so versital and quick to break down, I am suprised more trucks dont have them.
Knowing what I know now, I would have bought one new for full price in a heartbeat if I had to, worth every penny.
I have yet to hear anyone say much if anything bad about them. Im planning to get one new in the near future.
Man the tire carrier looks great! The bolt on brackets in the bed really add to the trucks appearance. Killer job man!
I had to cut off 2 of the 4 original exterior bed hooks which I was kind of sad about. I don't use them, but just gave the bed that 1st old gen look. I left the 2 front ones for kicks... But that concave upper bed definitely threw me through a loop when it came to mounting the fairly large upper brackets. I appreciate the compliment!
Member III
not to overcrowd your post with pics but man this thread is making me miss my first gen so much I'm really thinking of selling off my jeep project and buying another first gen , even though the jeep has a small bed it will be nowhere near as useful as a actual truck bed plus I found out outside of the US they made a crew cab first gen ..... now just need to track one down get it imported and find a way to afford 
I personally wouldn't want the additional weight of a crew cab, but it would definitely make the vehicle more 'rounded' than a two door pick up and probably up the resale by a large amount. I absolutely love toyota 8s, but would probably grab some shortened dana 60s for a crew cab build.
I use to be all chevy and jeep for years, not necessarily a strength thing, but more of ease of parts and $$. They are both like legos with plenty of parts to go around. Pair a cherokee with some worked 1 tons and you have a very reliable truck for 1/4 of the price of probably any other vehicle build.
But with that said, after picking up two samurais and my '88 4runner and learning how the japs built these trucks, I was just amazed with the engineering. I personally don't ever plan on going back to domestic. But with that said, weight reduction has become the name of the game with my toyota. I never use to care with 1 tons, atlas, v8 with a th400, all weighing in at 5,500 lbs vehicle, but the WAY OF THE SAMURAI has shown me the capability of a lighter rig. I ran 37's on the samurai @ 2,500 lbs(?), had more pep out of my 60 hp engine, and would crawl almost just as far as my large buggy. Had to stay off the really big rocks of course, but still could do 90% of the trails.....
Anyway, if I can keep this truck under 4,000 lbs, I feel the 8's with chromos, paired with 35" - 37" tires should be fairly adequate, especially for this build which is more a camping/trail riding, not so much getting all twisted on some gnarly rocks.
I use to be all chevy and jeep for years, not necessarily a strength thing, but more of ease of parts and $$. They are both like legos with plenty of parts to go around. Pair a cherokee with some worked 1 tons and you have a very reliable truck for 1/4 of the price of probably any other vehicle build.
But with that said, after picking up two samurais and my '88 4runner and learning how the japs built these trucks, I was just amazed with the engineering. I personally don't ever plan on going back to domestic. But with that said, weight reduction has become the name of the game with my toyota. I never use to care with 1 tons, atlas, v8 with a th400, all weighing in at 5,500 lbs vehicle, but the WAY OF THE SAMURAI has shown me the capability of a lighter rig. I ran 37's on the samurai @ 2,500 lbs(?), had more pep out of my 60 hp engine, and would crawl almost just as far as my large buggy. Had to stay off the really big rocks of course, but still could do 90% of the trails.....
Anyway, if I can keep this truck under 4,000 lbs, I feel the 8's with chromos, paired with 35" - 37" tires should be fairly adequate, especially for this build which is more a camping/trail riding, not so much getting all twisted on some gnarly rocks.
Member III
i mostly need more seats for the family , wouldn't worry to much about the 8s strength my buddy has a cadged 4runner on 38s thats been dealing with his heavy right foot and inability to slow down for years and only had issues with axle strength when he rolled it a few times at fordyce and bent the front axle , still drove but a little messed up 
Paid my taxes on the truck for the year... $56. Cannot beat that... A long with that, I have been prepping the truck for inspection by adding front turn signals, getting the front side markers working again, rear license plate lights, yada yada.... and realized (after my new sticker came in) that 35 (+) year old trucks do not require any inspection at all.... Been waiting for a moment like this for a longgggg time.
I also learned today that, in NC, 35+ can display YOM (year of manufacture) plates instead of their original registration plates as long as they keep the original plates in the vehicle they belong to. Of course there is some guidelines that go along, but nothing difficult really. So ill be keeping my eyes open...
And now back to wiring up the rear bed slider...
I also learned today that, in NC, 35+ can display YOM (year of manufacture) plates instead of their original registration plates as long as they keep the original plates in the vehicle they belong to. Of course there is some guidelines that go along, but nothing difficult really. So ill be keeping my eyes open...
And now back to wiring up the rear bed slider...
Good deal. If you ever want some extra company on a trip, let me know. Would be nice to meet more folks. I plan on doing hurricane sometime here shortly if you have any interest, 1 day in, 1 day out.
Yeah I’m down, just say when. I have another weekend trip planned on the 3rd weekend in February, you’re more than welcome to come along have a few other Toyota guys going on that one.
I ended up weighing the tire swing down due to it being quite a bear to put up and down. If I were ever to hurt myself, I don't think I could do it myself.
When the tire is down it weighs very little, and when the tire is up, it is the same... the swing out is the heaviest when it is completely perpendicular to the mount. I cut a piece of wood to length and placed a scale underneath the carrier when the carrier was dropped down 90* of its resting position to see what the maximum load weight was.
I built two helper gas shock brackets to help with the load. Each gas shock is rated to 420N, combined is 840N which is roughly 188 lbs equivalent. Of course, since my brackets are so much farther in towards the hinge point, the force of the carrier is dramatically increased.
Now it is fairly easy to lift off the ground but still heavy when at 90 degrees. After 90, of course it gets super easy again.
Shocks off weight at perpendicular = 95 lbs
Shocks on weight at perpendicular = 79 lbs...
Not a dramatic difference, but 16 lbs is better than nothing. I was really hoping to reduce at least 40 lbs or so....
Also a thing to note is the farther down it drops, the less weight the tire carrier has and the more force the gas shocks showing.... so if I go TOO strong, the tire carrier may never go all the way down (which wouldn't be terrible as long it drops past the bed which it probably would), BUT, if I take the tire off, stronger shocks may send the now, very light carrier, back up (possibly). Again, not sure if any of this would really be an issue....
I guess the thing to do is dial in the shocks so they hold steady when the tire carrier is not loaded and then have to live with it.
but for now, it will have to do....
When the tire is down it weighs very little, and when the tire is up, it is the same... the swing out is the heaviest when it is completely perpendicular to the mount. I cut a piece of wood to length and placed a scale underneath the carrier when the carrier was dropped down 90* of its resting position to see what the maximum load weight was.
I built two helper gas shock brackets to help with the load. Each gas shock is rated to 420N, combined is 840N which is roughly 188 lbs equivalent. Of course, since my brackets are so much farther in towards the hinge point, the force of the carrier is dramatically increased.
Now it is fairly easy to lift off the ground but still heavy when at 90 degrees. After 90, of course it gets super easy again.
Shocks off weight at perpendicular = 95 lbs
Shocks on weight at perpendicular = 79 lbs...
Not a dramatic difference, but 16 lbs is better than nothing. I was really hoping to reduce at least 40 lbs or so....
Also a thing to note is the farther down it drops, the less weight the tire carrier has and the more force the gas shocks showing.... so if I go TOO strong, the tire carrier may never go all the way down (which wouldn't be terrible as long it drops past the bed which it probably would), BUT, if I take the tire off, stronger shocks may send the now, very light carrier, back up (possibly). Again, not sure if any of this would really be an issue....
I guess the thing to do is dial in the shocks so they hold steady when the tire carrier is not loaded and then have to live with it.
but for now, it will have to do....
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Member III
I live in Monroe, NC. I am down for a trip to hurricane. We could also link in brown mountain OHV there are some great camp spots along the river in that area.
Member III
I have finally come to a suspension conclusion for the truck...
So, it pains me to say this, it really does, but I am too poor (responsible) to not run leaf springs!!!!
To put links on my full bodied low sitting truck (keeping the bed), it would be probably one of the most challenging vehicles I have done due to the small/compact truck this really is.. but it is definitely possible! I spent 2 hours measuring, marking, and drawing up a beautiful set up that would be amazing to do on this truck, but most of my fabrication obstacles become dollar signs and quite a bit of after market parts and engineering would have to be deleted that already fit so beautifully into this compact build.
As of right now, my steering set up and caster angle is perfect (there is no bump steering or death wobble, no under or oversteer), my ride height is exactly where I wanted it, my vehicle weight is super light, my belly is tucked, my wheelbase is dead nuts, this truck drives straight down the highway and is very stable, even at 80 mph! I mean honestly, the only thing that I would be gaining ( minus extreme rock crawling articulation and approach/departure clearances) is a SMOOTH RIDE that I miss so much!!!!! I mean, a well valved linked suspension floats over rough terrain like its not even there.... Not this, this feels like leaf springs, WHICH IT IS....
I told myself about a decade ago after entering the world of links is that I would never go back to leaf springs... and here I am, 10+ years later, back with a leaf sprung truck.....
So, instead of dropping $4000 plus a hell lot of time on building out the link system like I had planned... My new challenge, which is completely new to me, is "how to make a leaf sprung vehicle work". Something I never thought I would say.
PS. For those of you who know CLAMPY, Fred William's truck has really given me hope in the leaf sprung vehicle world.....
THE PLANS>>>
So, starting with my currently leaf pack spring rate. I will break them apart, paint and grease and reassemble. I also plan on removing all u-bolts and fabricating sandwich plates with bolts for easy maintenance and the ability to quickly adjust spring rates. A long with this, I will be building front and rear anti-wrap bars with a belly skid, air bumps on all 4 corners, and finding a shock valving combination that allows for a more comfortable rough terrain ride. If anyone has any suggestions that has spent a lot of time in the leaf world, I am ALL EARS!!!!
So, it pains me to say this, it really does, but I am too poor (responsible) to not run leaf springs!!!!
To put links on my full bodied low sitting truck (keeping the bed), it would be probably one of the most challenging vehicles I have done due to the small/compact truck this really is.. but it is definitely possible! I spent 2 hours measuring, marking, and drawing up a beautiful set up that would be amazing to do on this truck, but most of my fabrication obstacles become dollar signs and quite a bit of after market parts and engineering would have to be deleted that already fit so beautifully into this compact build.
As of right now, my steering set up and caster angle is perfect (there is no bump steering or death wobble, no under or oversteer), my ride height is exactly where I wanted it, my vehicle weight is super light, my belly is tucked, my wheelbase is dead nuts, this truck drives straight down the highway and is very stable, even at 80 mph! I mean honestly, the only thing that I would be gaining ( minus extreme rock crawling articulation and approach/departure clearances) is a SMOOTH RIDE that I miss so much!!!!! I mean, a well valved linked suspension floats over rough terrain like its not even there.... Not this, this feels like leaf springs, WHICH IT IS....
I told myself about a decade ago after entering the world of links is that I would never go back to leaf springs... and here I am, 10+ years later, back with a leaf sprung truck.....
So, instead of dropping $4000 plus a hell lot of time on building out the link system like I had planned... My new challenge, which is completely new to me, is "how to make a leaf sprung vehicle work". Something I never thought I would say.
PS. For those of you who know CLAMPY, Fred William's truck has really given me hope in the leaf sprung vehicle world.....
THE PLANS>>>
So, starting with my currently leaf pack spring rate. I will break them apart, paint and grease and reassemble. I also plan on removing all u-bolts and fabricating sandwich plates with bolts for easy maintenance and the ability to quickly adjust spring rates. A long with this, I will be building front and rear anti-wrap bars with a belly skid, air bumps on all 4 corners, and finding a shock valving combination that allows for a more comfortable rough terrain ride. If anyone has any suggestions that has spent a lot of time in the leaf world, I am ALL EARS!!!!
