I'm in the market for a used F450-F550 for the purpose of converting to an overland camper for travel globally. My understanding is that all diesel engines manufactured after 2007 require low sulfur diesel fuel? Some people have mentioned that not all countries have low sulfur diesel and that low sulfur diesel engines will have problems with their fuel. I'm just trying to decide whether to buy pre-low sulfur diesel or not. Correct me if I'm wrong here.
Low Sulfur Diesel Engine or not?
- Thread starter Sailmike
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Traveler I
Really it’s the fuel systems and and emission systems that are the problem. But if I were building a vehicle to travel globally I would do a older diesel of gas probably. And I love my diesels a lot but I know I’ll likely not leave a country I can’t find something my truck will take.
Boostpowered
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I've run ag diesel in newer diesel before with no problem. It won't kill it if you do it every few tanks and use lubricating additives. Over time it will clog the dpf filter with soot but that would take quite a few tanks and give you the chance to delete . If you drive back into the United States with ag diesel in your tank and on the off chance you get pulled over by a state trooper he may stick the tank and give you a fine for not having the road legal taxed diesel.
You'll want to half the oil change schedule if running 5000ppm diesel.
I've known a few folks who have done south America in mercedes diesels their quick fix is to drill out the dpf filter so it won't get clogged( cuz it will) and the just replaced that after getting back to pass emissions. They also put better water separating filters on. Their problem was the dpf wouldn't regen enough to burn the soot off the filter hence drilling it to trick it.
I'd try to stick to countries with the highest value being 500ppm you can get by with no mods if your dpf is regening properly. Anything higher will likely need the dpf drilled out.
You'll want to half the oil change schedule if running 5000ppm diesel.
I've known a few folks who have done south America in mercedes diesels their quick fix is to drill out the dpf filter so it won't get clogged( cuz it will) and the just replaced that after getting back to pass emissions. They also put better water separating filters on. Their problem was the dpf wouldn't regen enough to burn the soot off the filter hence drilling it to trick it.
I'd try to stick to countries with the highest value being 500ppm you can get by with no mods if your dpf is regening properly. Anything higher will likely need the dpf drilled out.
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keep in mind “drilling out the dpf” on a new truck will cause major repairs.
They are so locked down they will sense something is wrong and shut themselves down.
your best bet is an older diesel that doesn’t care what kind of fuel is in it, anything pre 11 gm, dodge pre 19, Ford pre 03.
unless you want to highly modify.
the injection pumps post 2010 gm, post 07 Ford, and 19 model year dodge Are pretty much junk and very picky about clean well lubricating fuel. Otherwise having a catastrophic failure leaving you stranded with a large repair bill of not under warranty (and somewhere you can get warranty work)
Boostpowered
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Hasn't happened yet and I've run high ppm im my 2017 duramax. And won't nothing happen if you remove the dpf filter every other good ole boy out here has deleted theirs and is rollin coal on city folks. This is the first diesel I've decided to let the dpf naturally die before deleting it and the egr and I've been trying to kill it since 2017 still waiting...
keep in mind “drilling out the dpf” on a new truck will cause major repairs.
They are so locked down they will sense something is wrong and shut themselves down.
your best bet is an older diesel that doesn’t care what kind of fuel is in it, anything pre 11 gm, dodge pre 19, Ford pre 03.
unless you want to highly modify.
the injection pumps post 2010 gm, post 07 Ford, and 19 model year dodge Are pretty much junk and very picky about clean well lubricating fuel. Otherwise having a catastrophic failure leaving you stranded with a large repair bill of not under warranty (and somewhere you can get warranty work)
sorry for the double post. Phone did something weird.
I forgot 17+ gm also has a better fuel system.
Removing the dpf and egr system is possible, also expensive. And it’s not just unbolting it and going on.
Boostpowered
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Sure you could use a tune to be optimal but most vehicles will just have a cel on the dash and may go into limp mode without a retune. It won't blow the motor though.
Basically its not advised to do any of it if you don't know anything about how diesels work or how to work on your diesel but thats kinda true to anyone offroading their vehicle. You should know everything there is about your particular vehicle and how to fix it if your gonna be away from help/civilization, this is a problem i see way too often both on the internet and the trails.
At the very least buy a Chilton or Haynes repair manual for your vehicle and a cheap mechanics tool set to start, learn where things are what they do and how to replace them.
Lord help us if someone wants to talk propane injection.
Boostpowered
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This is all assuming your going to south America. Most of the countries have low Sulphur but some have sort of high to medium high Sulphur just map out your route as needed.
Now if your gonna go to Africa either get your vehicle in country or stick to south Africa where they have the same ppm as euro grade diesel
Depending on the route and vehicle you choose you may just be able to take spare fuel cans with low Sulphur diesel and get through the bad fuel areas but that is a crapshoot at best.
Now if your gonna go to Africa either get your vehicle in country or stick to south Africa where they have the same ppm as euro grade diesel
Depending on the route and vehicle you choose you may just be able to take spare fuel cans with low Sulphur diesel and get through the bad fuel areas but that is a crapshoot at best.
correct it won’t blow the engine.
However I know the newer trucks will shut down to 5mph in about 200-300 miles if the dpf or any of the emissions systems is removed or has failed. Even an exhaust sensor will put it into reduced power mode potentially limiting you to 5 mph
Boostpowered
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Yep good old limp home mode, I've been there a few times. Chaffed wiring or a bad accelerator sensor will do that too so will leaving the gas cap a little loose. If you're gonna do the delete though id hope you have the sense to go get a green diesel tune or some other tune though to fix the cel and limp home stuff.
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From my experience of many trips in Europe, Africa, North America and Asia, the issue of diesel quality is overrated and often overdramatized. On the subject of low-sulfur diesel, you can take a look at this map, for example: Global Sulphur Levels
Nevertheless, it should not be forgotten that poor quality or even contaminated fuel can lead to expensive complications. In critical areas I would change the diesel filter more often (carry a replacement), keep an eye on the water separator and possibly use a pre-filter (e.g. the well-known MrFunnel funnel filter) or install a 2nd fuel filter. What has also proven successful for me is (assuming appropriate range) to refuel only at gas stations that look trustworthy. Over time, you get a certain feeling for it.
By the way, I've only had problems with diesel once on my many trips, and that was in North America - I've never had so much water in the separator.
If you are going to cold areas, it can make sense to carry an additive to make the diesel resistant against freezing temperatures, not all countries in the world have winter diesel. I also recommend, in certain overlanding regions, to inform yourself on the subject of additives.
Nevertheless, it should not be forgotten that poor quality or even contaminated fuel can lead to expensive complications. In critical areas I would change the diesel filter more often (carry a replacement), keep an eye on the water separator and possibly use a pre-filter (e.g. the well-known MrFunnel funnel filter) or install a 2nd fuel filter. What has also proven successful for me is (assuming appropriate range) to refuel only at gas stations that look trustworthy. Over time, you get a certain feeling for it.
By the way, I've only had problems with diesel once on my many trips, and that was in North America - I've never had so much water in the separator.
If you are going to cold areas, it can make sense to carry an additive to make the diesel resistant against freezing temperatures, not all countries in the world have winter diesel. I also recommend, in certain overlanding regions, to inform yourself on the subject of additives.
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I too have traveled extensively in NA, Europe, Africa and Central America and I would not travel to most countries in a modern, US spec Diesel engine. If you look at the map posted above me you‘ll see that most of South and Central America as well as most of Africa has quite a bit higher sulphuric content than the 15ppm we have here in the US. The problem then becomes how are you going to fix your emission problem in the Yucatán where they don’t usually deal with these issues. You’ll be SOL. Most diesels available in the rest of the world (not counting places like Europe) don’t have downstream exhaust treatment systems. It’s one of the reasons we can’t buy the 79 Series LC here in the US even though they are highly desirable.
While I currently have a 2016 diesel overlanding rig I am also building a 2020 gas rig to go places where I don’t have to worry about fuel so much. Keep it simple, keep it light and you’ll be better off in the long run...
While I currently have a 2016 diesel overlanding rig I am also building a 2020 gas rig to go places where I don’t have to worry about fuel so much. Keep it simple, keep it light and you’ll be better off in the long run...
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For
Fords you want to look at 2007 or earlier but the 6.0L engines had their problems but were/are fixable . Google “bulletproofing a 6.0 diesel” to get an idea of what is required. Once that’s done you’ll have a reliable engine. I had a 2006 with the 6.0 and put 200K on it.
Go new. The chassis cab Fords are better than ever.
Check out the gasoline 7.3l engine. It's just as powerful in the chassis cab trucks, and most likely faster. Get the biggest axle gears possible. Keep your campers weight as low as possible and you'll be fine. No 8 person dining sets or a 98 bottle wine rack, and you'll be fine.
Check out the gasoline 7.3l engine. It's just as powerful in the chassis cab trucks, and most likely faster. Get the biggest axle gears possible. Keep your campers weight as low as possible and you'll be fine. No 8 person dining sets or a 98 bottle wine rack, and you'll be fine.
This exactly. A 2003-2007 Ford more than likely has the 6.0. Although 100% fixable (and I’ve done a lot of them) they are not the best option Ford has to offer.
the 2007-10 6.4 was its own pos, quite possibly As bad as the 6.0, maybe worse as you could fix a 6.0 and they didn’t pop pistons left and right.
i agree. If buying new I would highly look at a big gas engine. Although I’m a big diesel guy (my profession for 15 years). For the average consumer a big gas engine will do anything you need.
I’m also poor so I run an old hoopdie. Lol
The newest diesels just ain't ready for prime time yet.
When they get things sorted to where DPF's, DEF, and other assorted nonsense are gone, then they'll be a good buy again. Maybe they can buy off the EPA with a bribe: ''We'll put hybrid systems in the trucks, if you let us go back to Tier 3.''
When they get things sorted to where DPF's, DEF, and other assorted nonsense are gone, then they'll be a good buy again. Maybe they can buy off the EPA with a bribe: ''We'll put hybrid systems in the trucks, if you let us go back to Tier 3.''
Aww I was planning a 99-bottles-on-the-wall rack.
One problem is that newer trucks are more expensive than older ones. I’m thinking of buying an older truck and taking it to a mechanic to have it bulletproofed. I haven’t called around to mechanics yet to check on prices for that.
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