Is it possible to win the war on rust?

flyfisher117

flyfisher117

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Idaho
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John
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Hansen
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I have a 2006 Toyota tundra. Only had a year but I am fighting rust on this truck. Nothing major. If I could get it under control it would not be a major issue but I have not been able to kill it.

I have 3 spots that concern me. 2 are on the frame by the rear wheels where the angle bump stop brackets mount. The other is in passenger side front wheel well right where the cab mount is welded to the frame.

These spots are maybe 1"x1" but I can't get them killed. They aren't going deeper just wider.

I've tried wire wheel, rust gel, east wood rust encapsulating paint (which sucks) and still can't slow it down. Do I just accept that my time with this truck is limited or can I do more? I've been wanting to try POR15 but haven't found it for sale locally. Would an actual grinder or flap wheel be worth a shot on the trouble spots?
 
If you’re in the panhandle, 4wheel parts in Post Falls has por15 on the shelf.
 
Captain Chaos said:
If you’re in the panhandle, 4wheel parts in Post Falls has por15 on the shelf.
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I am now in the SE corner of the state. Left Moscow last year. I didn't know 4 wheel parts carried it. I have a $45 goft card to them I need to use.
 
I bet you can place your order online. Maybe get free shipping also.
 
+1 on POR-15 . We've had good success with it on classic car restorations and several members in my local jeep club have had good success with stopping rust using it. No prep needed, but I would knock off any flaking, then just use a foam brush and go to town!
 
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JKHiredGun said:
+1 on POR-15 . We've had good success with it on classic car restorations and several members in my local jeep club have had good success with stopping rust using it. No prep needed, but I would knock off any flaking, then just use a foam brush and go to town!
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I'll give it a try

Initially when researching I heard POR15 required a lot of prep. I had also heard that the Eastwood required less prep and was a bit easier to apply. I still applied it to the manufacturers instructions and did all of the prep and even wore brushed the wprst spots but it had no effect. Even areas that had an ultra light rust discoloration have been giving me issues.

POR needs a top coat correct?
 
Having painted cars for almost 50 years I recommend a different paint. It comes from TopSecretCoatings.com. I use the TS-100 Industrial Marine paint. It cures like POR-15 but is UV protected and from what I have seen, more durable. It is a great rust stabilizer, just wear gloves. It is available in about a hundred colors if you want to pimp your ride.

I found them through my work (Rocket Scientist)
 
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old_man said:
Having painted cars for almost 50 years I recommend a different paint. It comes from TopSecretCoatings.com. I use the TS-100 Industrial Marine paint. It cures like POR-15 but is UV protected and from what I have seen, more durable. It is a great rust stabilizer, just wear gloves. It is available in about a hundred colors if you want to pimp your ride.

I found them through my work (Rocket Scientist)
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How much do I need to clean up the rust before painting? Do I need to have perfectly clean steel before applying? I just worry about the rust forming underneath again and the paint being so hard it goes unnoticed.
 
Surprisingly enough, paint that reforms rust actually works better with some rust. Pressure wash and scrub down with a degreaser before applying. Do not apply when it is too hot. You want the catalytic reaction with the moisture and rust in the pores of the substrate to occur, before the paint actually dries out.
 
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old_man said:
Surprisingly enough, paint that reforms rust actually works better with some rust. Pressure wash and scrub down with a degreaser before applying. Do not apply when it is too hot. You want the catalytic reaction with the moisture and rust in the pores of the substrate to occur, before the paint actually dries out.
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And that's what I thought about the east wood so I only wire brushed, then scraped, then washed, then degreased all rust before painting but it reapeared and bled right through it. I applied it on a warm yet not hot spring day with a relatively low humidity.

I'll check out this marine paint.
 
POR15 is all we use now to fight rust, I've found it works best over prepped surface rust vs clean steel.
 
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