Full size building rigs price

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phlfly

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I wonder what is prices for the full ready rig for the oveelanding. Like Trucks vs wagon style trucks. The rig should have some kind drawers system , kitchen pull out and unfolds like trail kitchen, water tank, rtt , 2-3 inch with 35's , lights, air pump build in, radio build in.
 

MidOH

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Well over $10k. Truck caps and drawer setups are overpriced now, thanks to the overlander crowd.

Kitchen pull out is only nice if you want your truck and sleeping area to permanently smell like Burger King. I'd rather cook further away from my ride.

Skip the drawers that can fail, and just get a boat hook to reach duffel bags under your bed platform. Your water tank can go under your bed platform, at the front of the trucks bed. Same place as a camper. I put air compressors under the trucks bed, on the frame rails.
 

Boostpowered

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Are we talking new or old? Sema ready or not?
Could range from 5k for something old off Craigslist that needs work to well over 60k for something new to over 100k for a Sema truck.
 

LostWoods

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Kitchen pull out is only nice if you want your truck and sleeping area to permanently smell like Burger King. I'd rather cook further away from my ride.
To each their own but this is the most overrated feature people seem to chase IMO. So much extra weight and bulk just to avoid the 30 seconds to set up a folding table? I get it more for a trailer but my Lifetime table was like $60 and folds down flat and small enough to fit anywhere I'd need it to.
 

phlfly

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why am I asked this because I have assembled and still doing my Titan XD. But than question came to mind what to do next like in year when it's built. Well you might saw my truck online, I'm looking to add couple more things, but I don't when should I stop, as than no turn around, and if I ever need to sell it what do I do? It's now almost no turn around point. I wonder what other do with their trucks ? Sell as is, trade it for van, as I would not be able to trade in this truck at dealership anymore. Well, you will say why do I want to sell, well it's more hypothetical question, if I will need it.
 

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why am I asked this because I have assembled and still doing my Titan XD. But than question came to mind what to do next like in year when it's built. Well you might saw my truck online, I'm looking to add couple more things, but I don't when should I stop, as than no turn around, and if I ever need to sell it what do I do? It's now almost no turn around point. I wonder what other do with their trucks ? Sell as is, trade it for van, as I would not be able to trade in this truck at dealership anymore. Well, you will say why do I want to sell, well it's more hypothetical question, if I will need it.
DRIVE IT !!!!!

see the country, maybe the world
 

leeloo

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why am I asked this because I have assembled and still doing my Titan XD. But than question came to mind what to do next like in year when it's built. Well you might saw my truck online, I'm looking to add couple more things, but I don't when should I stop, as than no turn around, and if I ever need to sell it what do I do? It's now almost no turn around point. I wonder what other do with their trucks ? Sell as is, trade it for van, as I would not be able to trade in this truck at dealership anymore. Well, you will say why do I want to sell, well it's more hypothetical question, if I will need it.
This is the kind the thing you need to think about it before you buy the stuff. How long do you keep it, do you set-up for a 3 year trip around the world or just average joe of 24 days off/year + some week ends...
Everything I have is removable and suitable to go in another vehicle. What ever you built in that stays on for ever you will not get any return when sold. What works for you does mean it will work for your buyer.


I changed from an LC Prado to a Hilux. I was able to transfer most of the expensive stuff except the roof bars. So the auxiliary battery system, including all the cables went in the Hilux, so did the fridge slide and the fridge, and also the RTT.
I do my best that most of what I fit can be removable easy and fit another vehicle if need it.
I think the most overpriced items are drawer systems. They are bulky, heavy and they can fit only one vehicle. Unless you go on the road for years... for me they don't make much sense. I have a box system, not pretty as a drawer but they work for me. I got one box with all the kitchen stuff that stays on top , and another one with tools and spares. I can get the box outside and open it in 1 min . The table I use stays in a very nice spot, takes no room, takes 1 min to remove and set. Should I spend 2000 euro on a drawer system I will use 30 days per year maybe, and maybe I save 5 min day , add 80 kg, but looks cool ? No thanks..
As far as cost... up there is no limit. Since I do have limits, I prefer to spend my money on trips than gear..
 
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phlfly

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That's true. This is a planned .
Another question if anyone had installed limited slip or locker on front diff with non solid axles? I debating to do that in the future or not . I have winch so it's kind solve the problem, but it's not always you have anchor point . What is holding me off it's high stress on front drive train, like drive shafts and steering arm.
 

Boostpowered

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That's true. This is a planned .
Another question if anyone had installed limited slip or locker on front diff with non solid axles? I debating to do that in the future or not . I have winch so it's kind solve the problem, but it's not always you have anchor point . What is holding me off it's high stress on front drive train, like drive shafts and steering arm.
Lockers or lsd and ifs front axles don't do well together, aka you'll break cv joints and shafts or worse the gears or actual housing when the gears blow apart since most aside from a hummer have aluminum dif cases.
This is if you can even find a locker or lsd made for your ifs front axle.
 

phlfly

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That is what I thought as well. It's not a good idea do things with 8,000 lbs truck too much weight on front axles.



That's true. This is a planned .
Another question if anyone had installed limited slip or locker on front diff with non solid axles? I debating to do that in the future or not . I have winch so it's kind solve the problem, but it's not always you have anchor point . What is holding me off it's high stress on front drive train, like drive shafts and steering arm.
Lockers or lsd and ifs front axles don't do well together, aka you'll break cv joints and shafts or worse the gears or actual housing when the gears blow apart since most aside from a hummer have aluminum dif cases.
This is if you can even find a locker or lsd made for your ifs front axle.
 

leeloo

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I guess you made some trips already since you have the winch. How often did you get in trouble ? The places where you have problems with the winch are in sand deserts, like Sahara, where you have nothing to anchor of, or other places with no trees/ rocks ., or very long river crossings. Are you in such a situation often ? And a front locker will make a significant difference ? Look for the bang for buck angle all the time..
If you feel the need of a front diff locker on top of a winch, maybe you do more extreme offroading without getting home the same night and less long distance traveling and relaxing.. So in this case, sure, go for the 40 inch tyres, 5 inch lift, you can even add a second winch in the back, diff lockers all over... the full package..
different needs have different equipment...
 
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Boostpowered

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That is what I thought as well. It's not a good idea do things with 8,000 lbs truck too much weight on front axles.
It's not so much a weight problem, it's more about the materials independent front suspension parts are made of. On the rear you can and should have lsd or locker of some sort the rear will be Cast iron and axles thicker steel and can handle the stresses applied, on the front the diff is gonna likely be cast aluminum a much softer material than cast iron and can't take the stress of a locker. Front cv axles are also smaller diameter,have more flexing parts(weird angles) that cause greater stress, many time it's weaker metal alloys than rear axles.
Basically they just aren't made for it you can do it IF you can find the lockers made for it but don't expect it to last long before you break stuff, you could upgrade the weak parts on the front diff again if those parts are available like beefier cv, cast iron diff housing, beefier tie rod inner and outer, etc but in the end you'd be looking at nearly as much money and trouble as a solid axle swap and still likely to have a weak link.
You could also figure out how to swap a hummer(rare to find) front diff or a chevy zr2(impossible to find) front diff if you can find one.