For those of you than run your fridge daily, what is the best power configuration you've found?

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Kevin108

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On my FJ, I had added a large AGM, an upgraded alternator, and a hard-mounted 100w solar panel. This worked great in the city where an unobstructed parking lot gave the battery a continuous charge. Obviously, it worked poorly on the trail, where shady camping locations were preferred.

On my GX, I've only upgraded the battery. I still have the solar panel, but it's not as easily mounted compared to the FJ. I am considering one of the stick-on hood panels, but the fact that it's placed directly on the already hot hood makes me question its practicality. I have also considered a Jackery or comparable, but their max working temps are only 104° and the vehicle interior is likely to exceed that on any summer day. I'm also willing to make the investment in new batteries and a DC to DC charger if that's what I really need. I just don't want to make any missteps.

What option is working for you?
 
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MOAK

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Dual AGMs give me roughly 100 ah. I’ve a fixed 100 watt solar panel up top and a portable 120watt panel to set up away from the vehicle when parked in the shade. Admittedly our vehicle is set up for the high plains and deserts, so when camping around here in the woods I keep a close eye on everything. Out west I don’t even think about it as the two panels keep everything topped off.
 

El-Dracho

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One 100Ah AMG aux battery (beside the starter battery) charged by a 100W solar panel which is mounted on the roof of the rig - that's all and has been working for about 10 years now even when the fridge is on for months.
 

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DC-DC dual input charger (alternator/solar). The alternator easily/quickly tops off the house battery so there is no need for solar if I am driving every day or two and not sitting still at a basecamp. If basecamping I'll set up the solar panels and they keep things topped off. Of course there are a lot of variables with solar charging but on driving trips it just works. I am using a Renogy charger with the bluetooth option which allows me to run their app and check charge status from one of the iDevices that I am already running. IMO a dual input setup is the only way to go - just make sure you do your homework and run proper gauge (large) wires from the alternator side to the charger side because unplanned fires tend to be a bummer ;)
 
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smritte

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Same as everyone else. Upgraded alternator for driving, AGM's, 250 watt fixed solar and 180 watt folding solar for the forest. Folding has 50 ft of cord.
 

MOAK

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Same as everyone else. Upgraded alternator for driving, AGM's, 250 watt fixed solar and 180 watt folding solar for the forest. Folding has 50 ft of cord.
Until lithiums come way down in price, can withstand extreme temperatures and are easily / thoughtlessly maintained, AGMs are still the gold standard IMO. What alternator are you using? I won't be replacing mine till this one wears out, but that may be another 100,000 miles, so maybe never. Ha!
 

smritte

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What alternator are you using?
Regardless of what you read on Mud, our alternators are a bit subpar for what we do. I run a Tundra alternator modified to 6 phase. I get 160 amp at 700 rpm and it tops out at 265 amp at 3500 rpm. My output voltage is 14.4.
 
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ThundahBeagle

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I'm having a real hard time saying it. And nobody else has said it either, which makes it tougher on me.

Do we not see it?






If your refrigerator is running...you'd better go catch it!

I'll be here all week. Tip your waitress.
 

Ubiety

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I'm having a real hard time saying it. And nobody else has said it either, which makes it tougher on me.

Do we not see it?






If your refrigerator is running...you'd better go catch it!

I'll be here all week. Tip your waitress.
Do you have Prince Albert in a can? Hahahaha
 
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Renegade

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ARB fridge runs off a Goal Zero Lithium 400 which is recharged when vehicle is on. Portable solution allows me to move to other vehicles, and is full contained in cargho area (LC200, Sequoia, etc).
 
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Ubiety

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ARB fridge runs off a Goal Zero Lithium 400 which is recharged when vehicle is on. Portable solution allows me to move to other vehicles, and is full contained in cargho area (LC200, Sequoia, etc).
Portable for the win! I made my setup portable so it could be left, with the fridge, at a basecamp if we wanted to take the truck somewhere.
 

TRob

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Dual AGM batteries in a Genesis setup. We are usually driving every day when on a trip so we have more than enough battery for the fridge and other misc uses. I did just pick up a Bluetti to power the Starlink though. It has a 200W portable solar panel if needed. Haven't tried it out yet.
 

rtexpeditions

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I just run 2 x 130Ah AGM's, charged through a Redarc DC/DC Charger.
The van has a smart alternator and the main electrics actually run at around 10V so I can't run it off that, the DC/DC is a special low voltage version (one of the first ones ever made).

Runs good for a week at home, especially at this time of year (winter, mostly less than 50F), and when I'm travelling in warmer climates the vehicle runs more often keeping the charge up.
I also use a low voltage cutout on the fridge circuit so the voltage never drops below 11.5V.

All my other electronics (2-way radios, camp lights, laptop) also run off the same batteries, they only have a minimal load when I'm parked.

I'm looking to add 100W of solar when I get my roof storage box sorted.
 

shoredreamer

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100w permanent solar on my roof charges my 100ah LiFePo4 in the cargo area thru a Redarc BCDC. 52qt fridge can run indefinitely on this setup without starting the truck, if I’m parked with view of the sky. Upgraded alternator to charge while driving. Also have a 100w fold out panel w 20’ extension for times when the vehicle is shaded at camp, or to double to 200w if deeply discharged and not starting the vehicle any time soon. Setup has works flawless for me for a couple years now.
 

systemdelete

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Fridge is an ARB 50qt running essentially continuously for 7 or 8 years now. First in my FJ with solar on the hood, now on my rover with similar but slightly larger panels (2x55w) on the hood. Battery is an off the shelf AGM from batteries plus, solar charge controller is a victron 75/10 which keeps it all happy. No alternator upgrades on either, did not need them with the light loads I run.
 
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