Member II
- 889
- First Name
- Matt
- Last Name
- Lewandowski
- Member #
-
25489
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- KG4DIE
I did not see any reference to what sort of budget you are looking at...
Solo recovery is actually more gear intensive than buddy recovery.
when you are solo, you have to make sure you have EVERY you might need for ANY situation
ESSENTIAL:
Yes I realize many of these items are not "Recovery kit" but they are none the less as essential as a recovery kit if you are planning on traveling solo
LED head lamp (ye never know when you will be working in the dark.)
Safety Glasses (even if your job makes you wear RX safety glasses, do not count on them. get some OTG safety glasses and keep them in the vehicle if nothing else you can loan them to a passenger or a stranger who is helping you. they are cheap... get a couple pair.
An extensive tool kit: I fear I do not have a complete list close to hand, but at very least a complete set of sockets and wrenches to match your vehicle, lineman's pliers, hammer, rubber mallet, crimping tool, breaker bar, multi meter, utility knife screwdrivers, any torx and allen keys you need for your vehicle. etc. also spares such as fuses and some 10-12g wire, plus things like WD40, ductape, electrical tape (or liquid electrical tape), heat shrink tubing, JB Weld, etc. these are just the things I could think of off the top of my head... there are a lot of lists out there, or perhaps a mechanic in the group could chime in.
a complete first aid kit (at very least a basic first aid kit with additional trauma kit including a blood coagulant such as quickclot)
at least 2: 2.5lb BC fire extinguishers in cab one the driver can reach and one that can be reached by a passenger plus at least one 5lb ABC fire extinguisher in the cargo area in the cargo area or other accessible location (reachable by someone outside your vehicle
a basic roadside emergency kit: tire sealant/patch kit, wool blanket, or at least a space blanket for every potential passenger (one for each seat), snack food such as jerky and trail mix, water for every passenger (not to be touched for camping supplies) LED or pyro road flares (I prefer LED type), jumper cable (or as a solo, better yet a lithium or AGM battery booster pack) (keep in mind diesels need more power to start so get one that has enough cranking amps for your vehicle) do not forget your tire iron, and if yuou have locking lug nuts, make sure you have the key for them.
Air compressor (at very least a small unit that plugs into your 12v sockets even if you have OBA or CO2 Bottle this is a good backup)
good reliable long range communications be it ham radio, or a satellite communicator, at absolute minimum a CB
Heavy duty double leather palm work gloves, especially if working with a winch. most truckers work gloves are not suitable.
mechanics gloves (no substitute for heavy work gloves
<notice I am half way through the essentials list and have not even started with "recovery gear"
Snatch strap rated for 20k for a jeep or down size truck or 30k for a full size truck (even if you are out solo wheeling it does not mean your rescue won't come in the form of a second vehicle) these are NOT winch extension straps. they are designed to stretch under use. this should be 20 feet or 30 feet. if possible having one of each length is a good idea to give you options, but at very least get a 20' 20k strap
2-4 shackles rated for at least 4.5ton (I am partial to a set of warn epic 18k shackles on the bumper recovery points (or in a bag to go on the recovery points plus a few 4.5Ton+ rated shackles for rigging))
bumper or frame mounted recovery points (not just the old fashioned hooks, but real SOLID recovery points) are an absolute must front and rear... some vehicles have them, some do not... ALL vehicles need them
some form of traction mat this can be a "recovery board" such as maxtrax or the various knock offs, but be warned. (any knock off should be considered disposable. I have yet to see any (other than ARB) that will hold up like a genuine maxtrax). I am honestly not so fond of these as they rely on plastic nubs to provide traction which frequently get melted off by spinning tires. that said if you are on a tight budget, the old redneck standard of sticking a piece of plywood under the tires does actually work just about as well for a lot less money. if you have worn down plastic boards or a couple pieces of plywood, you can increase traction by attaching a bunch of bolts through the boards. no less than 2 traction mats regardless of what type you get. ideally get 4... if you have a trailer, get 4 more.
2: winch line extensions rated for 20-30k (these are non stretching straps similar to snatch straps) these can be used to anchor a vehicle being pulled by a winch, or to extend the distance from winch to anchor, or to use as a tree saver, or as a bridal harness when rigging a winch
a bottle jack (or better yet a pair of bottle jacks) able to at very least get a wheel off the ground from the axle. with the jack, you should have at least one 2x that is large enough for the entire base of the jack and a foot long, and a piece of 4x4 lumber. these are for the purpose of creating a stable base, and a pad between the jack and your vehicle. more lumber is always a good idea.
a decent shovel (do not bother with a military style entrenching tool) a small D handle shovel should do the job
IF BUDGET ALLOWS:
a reliable winch rated at least 1.5 times your gross vehicle weight (vehicle weight loaded with people and gear, plus trailer weight loaded) do be careful of the budget winches. check reviews... pay attention only to reviews that have used the winch... too many reviews out there are "I just got this thing and hooked it up... man it is great". also seriously consider replacing the hook that comes with the winch with something a bit better... most hooks are undersize for working with straps and a winch should NEVER be hooked to it's own cable. I personally recommend a warn epic, or most anything by factor 55... whatever you choose, make sure the hook is large enough to accommodate at least 2 strap ends (preferably 4 strap ends) is rated for the load you will be putting it under with your winch (winch and snatch block combined can be a significant load) and does not have a flimsy hook. the warn epic 18k is honestly the weakest hook I would use once I can budget a bumper replacement as I plan on using a 10k winch on my tacoma. I intend to get a factor 55 multi link. also if you get a winch, you ABSOLUTELY MUST get a couple line dampeners... I know some people do not bother because synthetic lines have less energy when they break, but you have metal at the end of that line in the form of your hook or a shackle connector, etc so if the rope or strap break, that metal is going to be a cannon ball. when I had a winch on my old truck, I used a wool blanket... when I get a winch on my tacoma, I am going to make 4 dampeners with sandbag pockets
a snatch block or one of the new doughnut type winch pulleys
4-6 soft shackles rated as heavy as you can budget (I found some on amazon at a reasonable price with a breaking strength over 40k so they are actually stronger than the straps in my budget)
a hi-lift/farm jack with any accessories suited to your vehicle (tube lift adapter, wheel lift adapter, winch adapter, spare parts kit, etc) keep in mind that the hi-lift is not the safest jack, nor is any jack suited to all situations. consider a Hi-Lift to be a supplemental jack to the bottle jack but still great to have if it is in the budget also if you are mounting it externally, consider at least a neoprene cover for the ratchet mechanism and a lever lock such as the ones by daystar or clones there of. while on the topic of auxiliary jacks if you are in sand or deep snow, the exhaust jacks are quite nice, but in most other circumstances bottle jacks or even hi-lifts are better. the exhaust jacks also do not get along well with dual exhaust. you have to block one of the exhaust tips so all exhaust flows through one tip... the back pressure is also not something some engines are happy about.
while they are not common around here, I strongly recommend if you can budget some, or can DIY your own, get some bridging ladder tracks. they have been a part of "british overlanding" for generations they can serve as traction mats, they can allow you to cross a ditch, or climb/descend a ledge with far less chance of damage, but they are not cheap, and are rather heavy...
front and read snow chains (actual chain type, not cables and definitely not snow socks) these can provide you extra traction
front and rear air lockers or e-lockers (the best way to get unstuck is not to get stuck in the first place)
a ground anchor (the original pulpal is still considered the best, but there are other options available now... if you have a winch, there is no guarantee you will have someplace to anchor to. take for example local trail Nemo Tunnel. you are up to half a mile from the nearest anchor point if you got stuck inside the tunnel (fortunately the tunnel is pretty easy even if it is flooded with 14-18 inches of water through most of it) there is also a newer version out that uses your hi-lift as part of the anchor likewise a deadman anchor is a handy gadget out there if you have a winch and the budget for the accessory
Onboard Air (a twin compressor set up, or a compressed air tank, or even just a hard wired compressor... just make sure it is rated to be able to handle filling your tires 100% duty cycle is preferred)
while I mentioned it as part of the essentials as part of your road side emergency kit, I will bring it up here again... even if you have a couple cans of sealant in your emergency kit, if budget allows get a proper tire patch kit in addition to the sealant inflation cans ye just never know when that mud puddle will be hiding a piece of barbed wire or broken glass
USEFUL EXTRAS:
mud boots or sandals
rain gear (you will be unhappy if you are stuck in the mud... it will be worse if you are in an unexpected downpour while stuck in the mud)
more gear for assisted recovery (extra straps are always handy, as are extra shackles)
camp/trail axe... ye never know when you are going to have to clear dead-fall from the trail
saw (I recommend those hand powered chain saws you can get for hiking and camping or the rope saw version for pruning tree limbs... often more efficient than an axe and almost always safer) a 40v rechargeable chain saw is also nice if it is in the budget... you can also take along a conventional chain saw, but remember dedicated fuel for it.
pack some bug spray and sunscreen in with your recovery kit... you will be glad you did. likewise some baby wipes or similar wet wipe style towelette for cleaning up after getting messy during recovery. (keep more in the cab for general use along with hand sanitizer)
if you do not already have them, some towel type seat covers (easy to DIY with a bath towel) will help keep your interior in decent shape when you get covered in mud because that puddle you could see the bottom of turned out to be silty mud up to your axles
extra flashlights/headlamps for passengers
especially if solo, it is a good idea to carry a fluids change kit with enough fluids to change everything also keep a bucket with a spill control kit... this is especially true if your travel plans include water crossings (prone to contaminate fluids) or rock crawling (prone to put holes in things)
a spare fuel can with 5 gal of fuel for your vehicle minimum (even if on a local trail ride) I have seen a fuel tank punctured by a rock, patched with JB weld... it leaked, but it made it home thanks to some fuel cans) this probably SHOULD be in essentials. also remember... if you are getting out in the middle of nowhere, take more than one fuel can... how much you need to carry depends on your vehicles fuel consumption (not just on road, but what you burn through while wheeling... fully loaded... perhaps even with a trailer) and how far it will be between fuel stops when you are out in the middle of nowhere. for example... round here... I would take 1 MAYBE 2 (because the rear bumper I want can carry a pair of jerries) fuel cans wich would give me a range of 75-150 miles, but if I where heading up to ontario, or out west I would pack 4 wich would give me a range of 250-300 miles... if I where heading into the alaska wilds I would likely pack 6 or more for a range of 500 miles on road with expectation of loosing half that range if I have to do more than mild off roading or if I am pulling a trailer if I am pulling a trailer and dropping into 4 wheel lo or even 4 hi is to be expected I may carry more.
I could probably come up with more, but you are probably already panicking at the thought of maybe $10,000 worth of gear. like I said... solo is actually more gear intensive than buddy system.
Solo recovery is actually more gear intensive than buddy recovery.
when you are solo, you have to make sure you have EVERY you might need for ANY situation
ESSENTIAL:
Yes I realize many of these items are not "Recovery kit" but they are none the less as essential as a recovery kit if you are planning on traveling solo
LED head lamp (ye never know when you will be working in the dark.)
Safety Glasses (even if your job makes you wear RX safety glasses, do not count on them. get some OTG safety glasses and keep them in the vehicle if nothing else you can loan them to a passenger or a stranger who is helping you. they are cheap... get a couple pair.
An extensive tool kit: I fear I do not have a complete list close to hand, but at very least a complete set of sockets and wrenches to match your vehicle, lineman's pliers, hammer, rubber mallet, crimping tool, breaker bar, multi meter, utility knife screwdrivers, any torx and allen keys you need for your vehicle. etc. also spares such as fuses and some 10-12g wire, plus things like WD40, ductape, electrical tape (or liquid electrical tape), heat shrink tubing, JB Weld, etc. these are just the things I could think of off the top of my head... there are a lot of lists out there, or perhaps a mechanic in the group could chime in.
a complete first aid kit (at very least a basic first aid kit with additional trauma kit including a blood coagulant such as quickclot)
at least 2: 2.5lb BC fire extinguishers in cab one the driver can reach and one that can be reached by a passenger plus at least one 5lb ABC fire extinguisher in the cargo area in the cargo area or other accessible location (reachable by someone outside your vehicle
a basic roadside emergency kit: tire sealant/patch kit, wool blanket, or at least a space blanket for every potential passenger (one for each seat), snack food such as jerky and trail mix, water for every passenger (not to be touched for camping supplies) LED or pyro road flares (I prefer LED type), jumper cable (or as a solo, better yet a lithium or AGM battery booster pack) (keep in mind diesels need more power to start so get one that has enough cranking amps for your vehicle) do not forget your tire iron, and if yuou have locking lug nuts, make sure you have the key for them.
Air compressor (at very least a small unit that plugs into your 12v sockets even if you have OBA or CO2 Bottle this is a good backup)
good reliable long range communications be it ham radio, or a satellite communicator, at absolute minimum a CB
Heavy duty double leather palm work gloves, especially if working with a winch. most truckers work gloves are not suitable.
mechanics gloves (no substitute for heavy work gloves
<notice I am half way through the essentials list and have not even started with "recovery gear"
Snatch strap rated for 20k for a jeep or down size truck or 30k for a full size truck (even if you are out solo wheeling it does not mean your rescue won't come in the form of a second vehicle) these are NOT winch extension straps. they are designed to stretch under use. this should be 20 feet or 30 feet. if possible having one of each length is a good idea to give you options, but at very least get a 20' 20k strap
2-4 shackles rated for at least 4.5ton (I am partial to a set of warn epic 18k shackles on the bumper recovery points (or in a bag to go on the recovery points plus a few 4.5Ton+ rated shackles for rigging))
bumper or frame mounted recovery points (not just the old fashioned hooks, but real SOLID recovery points) are an absolute must front and rear... some vehicles have them, some do not... ALL vehicles need them
some form of traction mat this can be a "recovery board" such as maxtrax or the various knock offs, but be warned. (any knock off should be considered disposable. I have yet to see any (other than ARB) that will hold up like a genuine maxtrax). I am honestly not so fond of these as they rely on plastic nubs to provide traction which frequently get melted off by spinning tires. that said if you are on a tight budget, the old redneck standard of sticking a piece of plywood under the tires does actually work just about as well for a lot less money. if you have worn down plastic boards or a couple pieces of plywood, you can increase traction by attaching a bunch of bolts through the boards. no less than 2 traction mats regardless of what type you get. ideally get 4... if you have a trailer, get 4 more.
2: winch line extensions rated for 20-30k (these are non stretching straps similar to snatch straps) these can be used to anchor a vehicle being pulled by a winch, or to extend the distance from winch to anchor, or to use as a tree saver, or as a bridal harness when rigging a winch
a bottle jack (or better yet a pair of bottle jacks) able to at very least get a wheel off the ground from the axle. with the jack, you should have at least one 2x that is large enough for the entire base of the jack and a foot long, and a piece of 4x4 lumber. these are for the purpose of creating a stable base, and a pad between the jack and your vehicle. more lumber is always a good idea.
a decent shovel (do not bother with a military style entrenching tool) a small D handle shovel should do the job
IF BUDGET ALLOWS:
a reliable winch rated at least 1.5 times your gross vehicle weight (vehicle weight loaded with people and gear, plus trailer weight loaded) do be careful of the budget winches. check reviews... pay attention only to reviews that have used the winch... too many reviews out there are "I just got this thing and hooked it up... man it is great". also seriously consider replacing the hook that comes with the winch with something a bit better... most hooks are undersize for working with straps and a winch should NEVER be hooked to it's own cable. I personally recommend a warn epic, or most anything by factor 55... whatever you choose, make sure the hook is large enough to accommodate at least 2 strap ends (preferably 4 strap ends) is rated for the load you will be putting it under with your winch (winch and snatch block combined can be a significant load) and does not have a flimsy hook. the warn epic 18k is honestly the weakest hook I would use once I can budget a bumper replacement as I plan on using a 10k winch on my tacoma. I intend to get a factor 55 multi link. also if you get a winch, you ABSOLUTELY MUST get a couple line dampeners... I know some people do not bother because synthetic lines have less energy when they break, but you have metal at the end of that line in the form of your hook or a shackle connector, etc so if the rope or strap break, that metal is going to be a cannon ball. when I had a winch on my old truck, I used a wool blanket... when I get a winch on my tacoma, I am going to make 4 dampeners with sandbag pockets
a snatch block or one of the new doughnut type winch pulleys
4-6 soft shackles rated as heavy as you can budget (I found some on amazon at a reasonable price with a breaking strength over 40k so they are actually stronger than the straps in my budget)
a hi-lift/farm jack with any accessories suited to your vehicle (tube lift adapter, wheel lift adapter, winch adapter, spare parts kit, etc) keep in mind that the hi-lift is not the safest jack, nor is any jack suited to all situations. consider a Hi-Lift to be a supplemental jack to the bottle jack but still great to have if it is in the budget also if you are mounting it externally, consider at least a neoprene cover for the ratchet mechanism and a lever lock such as the ones by daystar or clones there of. while on the topic of auxiliary jacks if you are in sand or deep snow, the exhaust jacks are quite nice, but in most other circumstances bottle jacks or even hi-lifts are better. the exhaust jacks also do not get along well with dual exhaust. you have to block one of the exhaust tips so all exhaust flows through one tip... the back pressure is also not something some engines are happy about.
while they are not common around here, I strongly recommend if you can budget some, or can DIY your own, get some bridging ladder tracks. they have been a part of "british overlanding" for generations they can serve as traction mats, they can allow you to cross a ditch, or climb/descend a ledge with far less chance of damage, but they are not cheap, and are rather heavy...
front and read snow chains (actual chain type, not cables and definitely not snow socks) these can provide you extra traction
front and rear air lockers or e-lockers (the best way to get unstuck is not to get stuck in the first place)
a ground anchor (the original pulpal is still considered the best, but there are other options available now... if you have a winch, there is no guarantee you will have someplace to anchor to. take for example local trail Nemo Tunnel. you are up to half a mile from the nearest anchor point if you got stuck inside the tunnel (fortunately the tunnel is pretty easy even if it is flooded with 14-18 inches of water through most of it) there is also a newer version out that uses your hi-lift as part of the anchor likewise a deadman anchor is a handy gadget out there if you have a winch and the budget for the accessory
Onboard Air (a twin compressor set up, or a compressed air tank, or even just a hard wired compressor... just make sure it is rated to be able to handle filling your tires 100% duty cycle is preferred)
while I mentioned it as part of the essentials as part of your road side emergency kit, I will bring it up here again... even if you have a couple cans of sealant in your emergency kit, if budget allows get a proper tire patch kit in addition to the sealant inflation cans ye just never know when that mud puddle will be hiding a piece of barbed wire or broken glass
USEFUL EXTRAS:
mud boots or sandals
rain gear (you will be unhappy if you are stuck in the mud... it will be worse if you are in an unexpected downpour while stuck in the mud)
more gear for assisted recovery (extra straps are always handy, as are extra shackles)
camp/trail axe... ye never know when you are going to have to clear dead-fall from the trail
saw (I recommend those hand powered chain saws you can get for hiking and camping or the rope saw version for pruning tree limbs... often more efficient than an axe and almost always safer) a 40v rechargeable chain saw is also nice if it is in the budget... you can also take along a conventional chain saw, but remember dedicated fuel for it.
pack some bug spray and sunscreen in with your recovery kit... you will be glad you did. likewise some baby wipes or similar wet wipe style towelette for cleaning up after getting messy during recovery. (keep more in the cab for general use along with hand sanitizer)
if you do not already have them, some towel type seat covers (easy to DIY with a bath towel) will help keep your interior in decent shape when you get covered in mud because that puddle you could see the bottom of turned out to be silty mud up to your axles
extra flashlights/headlamps for passengers
especially if solo, it is a good idea to carry a fluids change kit with enough fluids to change everything also keep a bucket with a spill control kit... this is especially true if your travel plans include water crossings (prone to contaminate fluids) or rock crawling (prone to put holes in things)
a spare fuel can with 5 gal of fuel for your vehicle minimum (even if on a local trail ride) I have seen a fuel tank punctured by a rock, patched with JB weld... it leaked, but it made it home thanks to some fuel cans) this probably SHOULD be in essentials. also remember... if you are getting out in the middle of nowhere, take more than one fuel can... how much you need to carry depends on your vehicles fuel consumption (not just on road, but what you burn through while wheeling... fully loaded... perhaps even with a trailer) and how far it will be between fuel stops when you are out in the middle of nowhere. for example... round here... I would take 1 MAYBE 2 (because the rear bumper I want can carry a pair of jerries) fuel cans wich would give me a range of 75-150 miles, but if I where heading up to ontario, or out west I would pack 4 wich would give me a range of 250-300 miles... if I where heading into the alaska wilds I would likely pack 6 or more for a range of 500 miles on road with expectation of loosing half that range if I have to do more than mild off roading or if I am pulling a trailer if I am pulling a trailer and dropping into 4 wheel lo or even 4 hi is to be expected I may carry more.
I could probably come up with more, but you are probably already panicking at the thought of maybe $10,000 worth of gear. like I said... solo is actually more gear intensive than buddy system.
Last edited:
