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Diesel heaters

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

Regarding your metal fuel can; do you use a quick disconnect for the fuel line and do you have any problems with having to reprime the system? I think there are some advantages to a remote tank and am thinking of going that way with mine.
I use a small Wavian fuel can and this adapter. The link is one I found randomly but the adapter is used for generators. My heater is mounted in a Pelican case. I have the fuel lid and hose stored in there. This way I can keep the fuel can sealed on my rear rack. I keep fuel in the hose itself and using a short piece of rubber tube, I have it looped to the pickup on the bottom. This negates the need for siphoning some fuel to prime the line. If I have to, its not difficult to prime. Some heaters have a prime feature.

The second is an aftermarket controller called Afterburner. My buddy uses this in his trailer, and it works well for him.
That was the one I was referring to. Its also where I got my info on the electronics. Before you order one of his, you open your unit and identify what board they used. Mine wasn't compatible.
My unit is also "pre remote" I would have to replace it to get the Burek. As cheap as the heaters are, I may consider it. I added a big awning room to my trailer and my 5k would work well for that.
 

PCO6

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

I use a small Wavian fuel can and this adapter. The link is one I found randomly but the adapter is used for generators. My heater is mounted in a Pelican case. I have the fuel lid and hose stored in there. This way I can keep the fuel can sealed on my rear rack. I keep fuel in the hose itself and using a short piece of rubber tube, I have it looped to the pickup on the bottom. This negates the need for siphoning some fuel to prime the line. If I have to, its not difficult to prime. Some heaters have a prime feature.
Thanks. That's good to know. I'm looking at a Scepter plastic can so my adapter will have to be a bit different but your idea is good.
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

There are two ways to add thermostat style control to heaters that don't have it (easily, that is). One method I looked into as a controller that intercept and replaces the remote.
I just watched their video, that Bureck unit is exactly what I need. That also means I need a new heater. My 5k is too much for my trailer, I was (one day) going to replace it wit a 2k. I may do that sooner than later.
Did you stay with the Vevor on your 2k unit?
 

reaver

Rank VI
Member

Explorer I

My unit is also "pre remote" I would have to replace it to get the Burek. As cheap as the heaters are, I may consider it. I added a big awning room to my trailer and my 5k would work well for that.
You should be able to upgrade the control board and controller to match the features of newer models.

I just watched their video, that Bureck unit is exactly what I need. That also means I need a new heater. My 5k is too much for my trailer, I was (one day) going to replace it wit a 2k. I may do that sooner than later.
Did you stay with the Vevor on your 2k unit?
Both heaters I have are 2k models. Both have a built in thermostat mode, and I may test it out on my next trip.

I have parts coming today to start working on a heater inlet port for the side of the trailer. I want to make sure everything is working as expected before I cut a 4 in hole in the side of my trailer.....
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

Do you have a link to who makes upgraded boards? That sounds like something I want to do. One of my buddies had his board burn out after a year. That may be an alternative to replacing the unit.
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

OK, found something on controller upgrade. It looks like its just the display. is that what you were referring to?
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

Found some with the internal control board. Huge hit or miss. Reviews say it either works or doesn't. Unfortunately, no one posts who's heater they have. UGH
 

reaver

Rank VI
Member

Explorer I

You usually need to replace all the control parts together to make sure they work.


I initially tried replacing the board in one of my 2k heaters with a slightly different model number, and it didn't work.

So all the parts need to be designed to work together.
 

lolzhax

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

Regarding thermostats... Unless you have a really good 12v power source, you might be better off just leaving it running all night long on the lowest setting and regulate temperature by opening a window.

Diesel heaters use a lot of 12v power to warm up the glow plugs at startup, and tents don't have any insulation so a thermostat will eat away at a battery really quick.
In contrast, the diesel heater will run non-stop for a couple nights on a single tank of diesel fuel. A single 2 gallon diesel rotopax can run the diesel heater for 5 or 6 nights.
 

ssouthard

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

Regarding thermostats... Unless you have a really good 12v power source, you might be better off just leaving it running all night long on the lowest setting and regulate temperature by opening a window.

Diesel heaters use a lot of 12v power to warm up the glow plugs at startup, and tents don't have any insulation so a thermostat will eat away at a battery really quick.
In contrast, the diesel heater will run non-stop for a couple nights on a single tank of diesel fuel. A single 2 gallon diesel rotopax can run the diesel heater for 5 or 6 nights.
Thanks for the information, much appreciated!
 

reaver

Rank VI
Member

Explorer I

Regarding thermostats... Unless you have a really good 12v power source, you might be better off justustaving it running all night long on the lowest setting and regulate temperature by opening a window.

Diesel heaters use a lot of 12v power to warm up the glow plugs at startup, and tents don't have any insulation so a thermostat will eat away at a battery really quick.
In contrast, the diesel heater will run non-stop for a couple nights on a single tank of diesel fuel. A single 2 gallon diesel rotopax can run the diesel heater for 5 or 6 nights.
100% truth right here. Although, in my case, I have r7 insulation (average) in my trailer, 280Ah, 400w solar charging, and 20A (soon to be 30A) dc-dc charging. My main fuel tank is a 1 gallon rotopax style, and I have an additional 2 gallons to refill that.

But my setup isn't what most people use.
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

That's about what my setup is too. Difference being only 300 watt solar. using a bunch of roof top for storage.
 
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