Come-along or winch?

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Pathfinder I

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This thought occurred to me fairly early on. It is most certainly worth keeping in mind if one is about to deploy a come along for recovery.

The curb weight on an RD1 CR-V is just over 3000lbs, the GVRW is just below 4000lbs I believe, so if I had an 8000lb come along, it should be rated for double my weight, even if I fully load the vehicle right up to its GVRW, which I have never come close to. Double is a decent safety margin, but even so, I appreciate you bringing up the point - extreme caution is the order of the day, I think.
Absolutley — recovery is easily the most dangerous part of overlanding, and caution is always called for. I think based on those weights I would agree that an 8k lbs unit would suffice.

Another suggestion to explore might be a chain come along; they are much heavier but the nice thing with chain is it doesn’t whip when it breaks (minimal potential energy storage under tension), it just collapses. A lighter option with a similar principle would be using synthetic winch cable instead of steel, but I’ve never seen a synthetic cable comealong. You could probably use a chain comealong and then extend your pull range with synthetic cables, but that might get pricey.

For what it’s worth we bought these and are very pleased with them for the price:

 
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The other Sean

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Heres a scenario. What would you do to get out of this? Its whats called a tank trap right around 4 ft deep real silty mud kind of qicksand like. There are normal puddles all over so you assume this is another one go right in and get stuck, Your totaly alone. With no sturdy winch point.View attachment 118950
I wouldn't go in. Alone and no sturdy winch point? Nope. use the bypass or turn around.
 

The other Sean

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That’s true to a degree (Edit: ‘to a degree’ means that usually, if you are working with a come along you may prefer to pull backwards; however there are times when backwards is not an option). And I completely agree that often, a backward pull of a foot or two can make the difference. The trouble is I’ve not found a reliable way to know when a risky bit of trail is going to be one of those ‘foot or two backward’ times, or if it will be one of the more dire examples as described by Boostpowered. I often only find out once I’m already stuck!

And related, the example you gave (based only on the photos) might have been quicker and easier to get out of with traction boards like MaxTrax; given how easy and fast they are to deploy, I would almost always try them first before fussing with a winch or a comealong . Bang for the buck and pound, it’s hard to beat a set of traction boards as recovery gear.

Edit; I love the pics of that Nissan, super cool rig! The Pro4X in black just looks like I feel it is supposed to look with the mud up the sides — they should come from the factory looking that good!
MaxTrax would have been ideal, but, were ordered, but not delivered to me yet. I would have been able to self recover quickly had I had them. This area was a spot that was logged 2 years previous. It all looked to be firm ground, but there was a dip where it was mud covered by grass. 10 feet in either direction was solid dry grass.
 
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CR-Venturer

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I had what I think is a pretty wicked idea on how to add a winch to my V, and I credit this thread for getting me really thinking hard about it. I'm going to do my new coilovers and lift first, but as soon as I can after that, I'm going to try to get the winch put on.
 

Lindenwood

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Yes attach the winch to a plate independent of the vehicle.

Put attachment point(s) on the plate for shackle(s)

Connect the plate as needed to the vehicle using your recovery points with synthetic or cable chokers (nylon/synthetic or cable sling/choker) In further consideration of this having a couple of cable chokers made for the expressed purpose of connecting the winch plate would probably be the best solution.

You need long enough electrical connection to reach the back of the vehicle or prepare by putting Anderson Powerpole connections front and rear

In doing so, you eliminate the need and expense of custom building a winch mounting system/bumper for a vehicle that was never intended to have one. It will be lighter, less expensive, less time consuming than fabricating a bumper, and gives you the ability to use a single winch at both ends of the vehicle. All of it can be stored off of the vehicle and out of the weather (winches DO freeze).
Very good idea!

Just, like anything recovery-related, be aware of the dangers of trying to trudge 100+ lb of steel through cold, slippery mud to attatch it to your stuck vehicle.
 

DrivingTacoLoco

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I had what I think is a pretty wicked idea on how to add a winch to my V, and I credit this thread for getting me really thinking hard about it. I'm going to do my new coilovers and lift first, but as soon as I can after that, I'm going to try to get the winch put on.
Thinking hard about this stuf is always a good idea.
 

justjames

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I don't see mention of the More Power Puller.
 
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Baipin

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I recently bought a 5000 lb (deadlift rating) Lug-All come-along. For the more experienced winchers here: Should I bother replacing the steel cable with synthetic line? I see this mostly as a safety issue; if I'm standing right beside the winch - as one does when using a come-along - I want the safest possible option. Is synthetic line really that much safer? Will 5/16 steel wire rope actually slice me in half? Will synthetic, just cause some nasty bruising? I winch about 10 times a year and my tools are always kept away from dirt and UV, in a bag. Is it worth making the switch to synthetic?

Regardless, I think come-along winches are a hidden gem. You can deadlift anything under 5000+ lbs safely in any direction with an appropriately sized Lug-All, Maasdam, or Wyeth-Scott; You can move debris from the trail in directions a vehicle never could; they don't require electricity; they're lightweight; they don't rust (cast aluminum); and the wire rope can be replaced with UHMWPE Dyneema. This one can be had on the 'Bay - I think the seller has 1 or 2 left. I got mine for $80 and they normally go for triple that. Fairly recent 2013 model, and the second-highest capacity that Lug-All makes (very hard to find used - I've been looking for over a year). The dynamometer/shock absorber thing is removeable.

1574482762256.png

I've used a Horror Freight come-along to yank my Forester out of a tricky spot with a vertical berm on one the right side, which was also buried to the body, and the front end burried about 2.5 feet in a mud/clay soup - just below the headlights. Even with that craptastic winch, I had an easy time pulling it out, once I got it going. The difference between that, and one of the aforementioned brands - aside from the capacity - is that you can use them for years, and do it safely.

I donated that Harbor Freight winch to my local river cleanup crew - Some of the pins seemed a bit loose and the frame was stretched a bit too much for my taste... I wouldn't trust it to pull 4,000 lbs of muddy Subaru again, but it does perfectly find pulling toolboxes and shopping carts out of the river. :-) With a Lug-All/Maasdam/Wyeth-Scott, you won't have to donate it. They'll last you for decades, with proper care.
 

bgenlvtex

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I recently bought a 5000 lb (deadlift rating) Lug-All come-along. For the more experienced winchers here: Should I bother replacing the steel cable with synthetic line? I see this mostly as a safety issue; if I'm standing right beside the winch - as one does when using a come-along - I want the safest possible option. Is synthetic line really that much safer? Will 5/16 steel wire rope actually slice me in half? Will synthetic, just cause some nasty bruising? I winch about 10 times a year and my tools are always kept away from dirt and UV, in a bag. Is it worth making the switch to synthetic?

Regardless, I think come-along winches are a hidden gem. You can deadlift anything under 5000+ lbs safely in any direction with an appropriately sized Lug-All, Maasdam, or Wyeth-Scott; You can move debris from the trail in directions a vehicle never could; they don't require electricity; they're lightweight; they don't rust (cast aluminum); and the wire rope can be replaced with UHMWPE Dyneema. This one can be had on the 'Bay - I think the seller has 1 or 2 left. I got mine for $80 and they normally go for triple that. Fairly recent 2013 model, and the second-highest capacity that Lug-All makes (very hard to find used - I've been looking for over a year). The dynamometer/shock absorber thing is removeable.

View attachment 128177

I've used a Horror Freight come-along to yank my Forester out of a tricky spot with a vertical berm on one the right side, which was also buried to the body, and the front end burried about 2.5 feet in a mud/clay soup - just below the headlights. Even with that craptastic winch, I had an easy time pulling it out, once I got it going. The difference between that, and one of the aforementioned brands - aside from the capacity - is that you can use them for years, and do it safely.

I donated that Harbor Freight winch to my local river cleanup crew - Some of the pins seemed a bit loose and the frame was stretched a bit too much for my taste... I wouldn't trust it to pull 4,000 lbs of muddy Subaru again, but it does perfectly find pulling toolboxes and shopping carts out of the river. :-) With a Lug-All/Maasdam/Wyeth-Scott, you won't have to donate it. They'll last you for decades, with proper care.
Worth it to change to synthetic? That's entirely up to you, and your femoral artery Link: Wire rope vs Dyneema pull test to failure . The danger with wire rope in a short pull application isn't so much that it is going to slingshot, but that individual stranding can break and spool back to the drum end, which would be exactly where you are standing while operating the device.

That looks like a well made come along, and although I have a personal hatred for devices in that category, looks like it will do exactly what you need it to d as long as you recognize it's short comings.
 

JCWages

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I'v done a few "rescue" mission recoveries lately and I was reminded of this thread. Before I had a winch I wouldn't be as eager to drive out to rescue folks because it would entail long hours using crude devices breaking all sorts of safety protocol. The winch makes it much easier and a fair bit safer. I feel like if more of my friends had winches the safer we'd all be.
 

Lindenwood

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There is alot a comealong will not do, and id like to see some traction boards move trees.
View attachment 128418
In my experience, it is way faster to just turn around and drag out the tree with a strap in 4Lo....

This is ESPECIALLY true if you follow actual winch care and spend a half hour at home respooling the line at the end of the day.
 

Cort

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I’ve used my More power puller dozens of times on extractions for myself and others. I also use it for disaster response/tree work.

winches are awesome but the cost is high and usually are only on one end of the vehicle. I’ve had a few and like the warn Zeon. My current truck is hard to upfit with a winch.

I usually get my snatch strap out first, maxtrax second and puller third.
 

OutdoorsBen

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Little late to the party but super winch makes a tool box winch. 4k lbs so it won’t pull you out of soupy mud but will probably be able to tug you backward a bit.

 
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Tundracamper

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I’ve used my More power puller dozens of times on extractions for myself and others. I also use it for disaster response/tree work.

winches are awesome but the cost is high and usually are only on one end of the vehicle. I’ve had a few and like the warn Zeon. My current truck is hard to upfit with a winch.

I usually get my snatch strap out first, maxtrax second and puller third.
As someone that is ignorant, can you explain if it is possible to extract with a power puller when traveling solo? Is that possible?
 

Cort

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You absolutely can. You use it similarly to an electric winch just with elbow grease.
 

MMc

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A Power puller is the same as a wench. This question is very open-ended. YouTube is your friend and or rabbit hole.
 

OutdoorsBen

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I agree 70% with it being the same. The one thing you miss is being in the vehicle to apply the breaks. I wouldn’t hand winch alone up over obstacles. However I wouldn‘t put myself in those situations alone. I think it’s super useful for average mud or just when you are hung up on something small and need a tug. As I said, you won’t be in the vehicle to hit the breaks or gas so there is an increased risk.
 
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