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If you aren’t running anything needy fluidwise(Like fluid particular lockers or such) I typically run cheap fluid of the proper spec and change more often. It’s VERY rare I get 30k out of diff fluid in a 4x4 before I’ve had some water crossing or boat ramp possibly contaminate it. I’ve found that it’s much more cost effective.
2 GALLONS of 85w-140 AND a garden sprayer I converted to a fluid pump cost less at the local tractor supply than 2 Quarts of the expensive synthetic I run in my fancy locking rear diff on my BMW.
If you aren’t running anything needy fluidwise(Like fluid particular lockers or such) I typically run cheap fluid of the proper spec and change more often. It’s VERY rare I get 30k out of diff fluid in a 4x4 before I’ve had some water crossing or boat ramp possibly contaminate it. I’ve found that it’s much more cost effective.
2 GALLONS of 85w-140 AND a garden sprayer I converted to a fluid pump cost less at the local tractor supply than 2 Quarts of the expensive synthetic I run in my fancy locking rear diff on my BMW.
Since you change that often i have a question. How often do you actually find water in the diff pumpkin? If that often you might want to invest in new axle shaft seals. A tip to anyone doing water crossings if youve been driving for a while especially in 4wd and you come to a watercrossing, do not just drive across if the diff is hot and you submerge it the rapid cooling is what suck the water through seals, stop before you cross get out and enjoy the scenery for 15 to 20 minutes let the diff cool off then you can cross without water being sucked in. If you just cant wait to cross and you go in water often think about pressurizing the diffs with a onboard air tank. Ive always used the stop and cool method and have never had a problem with water infiltrating my diffs and im in water quite a bit. I generally only change diff oil 1 to 2 times a year depending on how much hauling i do
Since you change that often i have a question. How often do you actually find water in the diff pumpkin? If that often you might want to invest in new axle shaft seals.
Well it’s a ‘99 Land Rover with 160k, and I’ve dipped the rear end twice since buying it last month. New seals are already sitting with the new bearings in my toolbox atm waiting for my extended breather setup to arrive. I found water in the rear diff when I first drained it upon purchase as well as a clogged breather, but I doubt it will be a problem long term. My truck calls for diff fluid changes every 30k in the maintenance schedule, vs my BMW’s 90k recommended service.
Unless the seals are leaking theres no reason to replace the water pump, if hoses are still soft, they are good to go too. T stats are a good idea as they are the most susceptible to failure due to lack of cooling system maintenance, and they are cheap. A water pump will "fail" long before it stops actually working, T stats not so much.
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