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Carrying/transporting a chainsaw

Speric

Rank VI
Launch Member

Advocate III

how are folks transporting their chainsaws?

basically, how are you managing that little seepage of bar oil from getting on things? I was thinking of making a little box or something to set it in/on.
 

Billiebob

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

I use a board and bit of blocking to manage it all. Mine is only on board for a fewhours, if I needed it for several days I'd add a sponge.

DSCN0756.jpeg
 

El-Dracho

Ambassador, Europe
Moderator
Member
Supporter
Investor

Protector III

A box is convenient, so you can load and unload them right along with all the accessories. There are also trays specifically for chainsaws. The saw goes in there and any leaking oil etc. does not run into the trunk, but remains in the tray.
 

John Bishop

Rank V
Launch Member

Advocate I

Something that might be a little more tidy than a rag for the bar oil seepage is a pet pad, used for house training dogs. They’re a bit more easier to get than the industrial absorbent pads.
With my gas saw I find there’s less seepage if I keep it laying on it’s side, bar down.
 

Pathfinder I

I have a plastic case for mine with a scabbard, like @Todd Sacchi describes. You can put a rag under the bar to soak up any oil, and it works to entirely contain the saw. Or, if having to hike a bit with the saw, the scabbard can be separate to protect the teeth and your clothing, leaving the bulk of the case behind. Here's an example from Amazon:


That being said, the weight and bulk of a saw means it stays home more often than it comes with us, and instead we rely on a Bow Saw:


The Bow Saw will rip through a tree very quickly, and that is our use case most of the time -- a tree on the road. The bow saw requires a bit more effort but it's not much slower. If you are encountering a large number of trees down, this is not a good option though.

And that brings me to my third suggestion - consider a battery saw. The Milwaukee style saws are super compact, and you can bring a few batteries to "hot bunk" them and get a fair bit of cutting time and power in much less weight and space than the fuel and oil cans for a gas saw. They are not as good as a big gas saw, but they are close, and they are lighter and easier to transport. (Edit - I originally said they don't appear to leak oil but I just learned that was not correct; some form of storage solution would still be required - if anyone has a battery saw with a good no-leak storage solution I'd be keen to hear about it!)

 

MidOH

Rank IV

Off-Road Ranger I

My recovery gear box is a 55g Stanley tote. So no worries about oil.

I remove the blade assembly from the saw so it's easier/smaller to store.

The battery saws bleed energy in the winter. All of my service trucks battery tools stink in the winter. (Sawzall, impact, ratchet, drill) I can mitigate it a little, by charging and warming the batteries on the passengers floor.

It's rare that I need to warm my gas Stihl like that. But it does happen.
 
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Speric

Rank VI
Launch Member

Advocate III

I have a plastic case for mine with a scabbard, like @Todd Sacchi describes. You can put a rag under the bar to soak up any oil, and it works to entirely contain the saw. Or, if having to hike a bit with the saw, the scabbard can be separate to protect the teeth and your clothing, leaving the bulk of the case behind. Here's an example from Amazon:


That being said, the weight and bulk of a saw means it stays home more often than it comes with us, and instead we rely on a Bow Saw:


The Bow Saw will rip through a tree very quickly, and that is our use case most of the time -- a tree on the road. The bow saw requires a bit more effort but it's not much slower. If you are encountering a large number of trees down, this is not a good option though.

And that brings me to my third suggestion - consider a battery saw. The Milwaukee style saws are super compact, and you can bring a few batteries to "hot bunk" them and get a fair bit of cutting time and power in much less weight and space than the fuel and oil cans for a gas saw. They are not as good as a big gas saw, but they are close, and they are lighter and easier to transport. (Edit - I originally said they don't appear to leak oil but I just learned that was not correct; some form of storage solution would still be required - if anyone has a battery saw with a good no-leak storage solution I'd be keen to hear about it!)
I found a link to making a case.

I have the same Makita saw, so I think I'll do that. having a couple of batteries at the ready, including a quick charger I can plug into my lithium cube, that recharges when I drive, I'm not worried about running out of juice.

the last couple of trips I had to turn around on the trail when coming across a fallen, burnt tree from all the fires we've had around here over the years. realized having a chainsaw is an essential piece of kit for around here. I have a little handsaw, but it's good for up to about 4-5 inch branches or limbs, after that it becomes quite a bit of work.
 

Pathfinder I

My recovery gear box is a 55g Stanley tote. So no worries about oil.

I remove the blade assembly from the saw so it's easier/smaller to store.

The battery saws bleed energy in the winter. All of my service trucks battery tools stink in the winter. (Sawzall, impact, ratchet, drill) I can mitigate it a little, by charging and warming the batteries on the passengers floor.

It's rare that I need to warm my gas Stihl like that. But it does happen.
Really good point about winter use, MidOH. I hadn't thought of that but it would be nice if Mr. Project Farm added a "freezer test" to the next electric chainsaw shootout!
 

FrankenWagon

Rank V
Member

Enthusiast III

I've used the case/ catch rag method. Though I would prefer to make a box for it with spare chains, sharpener, spare parts, eye/ ear pro, etc.
 

Craig Cooper

Rank V

Advocate III

I built a box for mine, copied one off pintrest. Then in the bottom I lined it with oil absorbent pads that I can change when needed. Many years ago, I took the small Rubber maid action packer, cut a hole in the side for the bar, then put a bar protector through it. Then the saws goodies stayed in there with the saw and I had absorbent pads in that as well.
 
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