Build/overland/4x4 stuff: 1989 Raider, 2010 Sequoia, and other projects

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irish44j

Rank II

Enthusiast III

443
Fairfax County, VA, USA
First Name
Joshua
Last Name
Hickey
So part 2 of the new mini-hitch is that it's for a bike rack right now. I just got a killer hookup on a Thule X2 Pro hitch-mounted rack from a friend, which I plan to mostly use on the Sequoia, but decided to test it out on the swing-out hitch. Fits pretty well, though can't totally fold up due to the spare tire clearance. But the concept works, so I'm happy about that:







...but that's not the end plan. The X2 Pro mounting rails are individually-attached, and it's a pretty heavy rack that sticks out a good ways (especially on a short rig like this). So for the Raider, the plan is to build my own "stinger" from the hitch (without the heavy fold-up mechanism and other stuff) and just have one rail bolted to it, since I'm generally solo when in the Raider. That'll save a good amount of weight and give me better clearance. So that's the next project, but it's for another day.

Today's little project: exhaust stuff. The exhaust pipe on this has always been too short and dumps right under the bumper. Not a HUGE deal, but when sitting still, the exhaust tends to go up and get through the rear door seal on occasion, which is pretty annnoying. Plus the underside of the bumper and rear door get a lot of oil soot (this is a Mitsubishi after all....). So I picked up an elbow extension, cut the old pipe off right behind the hanger, welded the elbow on , and angle-cut the tip, and now it dumps off to the side NOT under the bumper. Hooray for small victories.



 

irish44j

Rank II

Enthusiast III

443
Fairfax County, VA, USA
First Name
Joshua
Last Name
Hickey
With the hitch-mount rack there, it basically blocks my third brake light which is low-mounted on the bottom of the back door. And it somewhat blocks the regular taillights too. So I ordered some low-profile LED lights and mounted one of them up on the top of the door, which has better rear-view over the bike. So for 9 bucks, this'll do. Only fun part was running the wiring through the frame of the door, but got it done eventually.

Looks a bit funny right underneath my rear camp light, but whatever. This whole truck looks a little funny...



Hard to see in daylight, but it's bright AF at night - like 5x brighter than the stock brake lights.



On a side note, I was driving along with an Ineos Grenadier on the way home from work. Not the first one I've seen in this area (like a dozen), but the more I see them the more I like them. And they do look a good bit like a "modern" Raider/Pajero - almost moreso than a Land Rover, I think...

 

irish44j

Rank II

Enthusiast III

443
Fairfax County, VA, USA
First Name
Joshua
Last Name
Hickey
Time for some cleaning and fixing stuff. I built the roof rack about 5 years ago now and it hasn't been off the truck in that time. I've added things, drilled holes, drilled more holes, welded on it up there, touched up rusty spots, and done some half-assed brackets to mount things. Plus the beige roof underneath is pretty grungy and has some welding spatter and overspray. Time to fix all that.

So off with the rack (after unbolting all the heavy crap on it).



Even after washing it, the roof looks terrible.



So first order of business is a quick sand and repaint. Threw up the awning so the annoying tree over my driveway doesn't drop sap or stuff on it, and got to painting. I used Rustoleum "Sand" color (brush-on) originally, with a bit of black mixed in to dull down the color a bit, so did that again and it matched about right and looks a lot better now.



I also put a strip of black vinyl on the front edge of the roof - so the rack fairing doesn't wear down the paint and also because the strip of "sand" between the windshield and the rack has always annoyed me for some reason lol.



Now on to the rack. Man, I probably had about a dozen holes in the bars where I drilled into mount various things that I later moved or un-mounted, and just taped over them with gorilla tape. So first order of business was to get the welder out and fill all those holes in. I also cut off the L-brackets I put on for the shower curtain enclosure. I mounted those on pretty janky and didn't like where it held the assembly, so wanted to make something a bit bettter and more "snug" to the rack. I also cut off the old front "horns" left over from the early rack version. I only kept them for all this time because my branch risers attach there, but gonna alter that as well.



So yeah, I cut off the "horns" and capped the tubes, then added the riser eyes onto the steel fairing instead. I don't use the risers much, but good to have if I'm somewhere they'd be useful. Raider windshields aren't exactly easy to find so don't want it smashed by a rando branch.



The roof boxes I've had attached with U-bolts around the bars, but decided it was time to make things easier to take on/off if needed, so welded in some weld nuts instead.



Did a few other things that aren't very interesting, including adding new brackets for the shower curtain and a few support and tiedown pieces, nothing too notable though. And got my neighbor to help lift the rack back on .



Oh, did I mention I weighed it all when it was off the truck. The rack itself weighs 60lbs (including the four flood lights and fairings). The two awnings + shower curtain weigh 46lbs. The Pelican cases weigh 18lbs each, and forgot to weigh the other box but it's a bit lighter, so say 15 lbs. So around 160lbs on the roof there, plus two traction boards in the front box (maybe 10lbs), and I usually carry lightweight stuff in the Pelican cases (chair, tarps, tent, etc.). So figure I'm usually around 200lbs on the roof when fully geared up, which I guess isn't too bad all things considered. Not that I have much choice - in a truck this small I need the roof storage rather than jamming it all inside....



I also raised the front box up. You may recall it was indented down below the fairing, but that made it VERY hard to get to the latches and the lid only opened about 30 degrees. So this solves both those problems.



Oh, I did cut all the handles off all three roof boxes, since I don't need to carry them around. So figure I saved a few pounds there haha....

So, that was a productive day from my POV, though from your POV it all probably looks about the same as before haha....
 
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irish44j

Rank II

Enthusiast III

443
Fairfax County, VA, USA
First Name
Joshua
Last Name
Hickey
Well, let's keep going with some more projects. First one is an easy one, because I've done it already on this truck: Limb risers. You'll recall the old ones went from the rack "horns" to the front of the fenders (though I only used them a few times). With the horns gone and new mount locations, those are the wrong length - plus I wanted to make ones that used slightly lighter cable and were fully detachable. The old ones only detached on one end and I had to string them outside the rack. So the new set will be totally removable and I can stash them inside the rig instead. I also switched the spring to the topside and left the turnbuckle at the base for easier adjusting/tightening. And used a screw-type caribiner to attach on the fender.







They coil up pretty small and fit in my gear pouch (with winch remote and other stuff).

After that, finally got around to installing a new GMRS antennal. My original one snapped off halfway up at some point (it's a 2-piece design apparently) and my reception was pretty lousy for the last few trips. So I got my hands on a slightly taller (1-piece) Midland antenna and replaced it up there - so hopefully that will improve reception.



Oh, while I'm thinking of it - checked RockAuto last week and as is often the case with old vehicles of which few still exist, they had some maintenance items for almost nothing (manufacturer's closeout). So I picked up 6 of the cone-style air filters for 3 bucks each, and 4 or 5 oil filters for 1.50 each. These aren't as nice filters as the Mann one I have in there now (which has more elements), but for 3 bucks each I figure I'll just replace it after every trip or two and still do fine. The boxes for the filters were all mis-matched, falling apart...like they've been in the back shelves of Joe's Auto Parts for 30 years and he finally unloaded them lol...



Now, the next project. I'll admit this one was a bit impulsive since I got a bonus at work last month (pretty rare for federal employees these days....) and put most of it in savings, but wanted to buy myself something nice (and yes, SWMBO got something too, don't worry...). You'll recall that for a couple years I've had a Badlands Apex 5500 winch on the front of this thing. My viewpoint was that I don't winch often, and on a small truck with not that much horsepower unnecessary weight is to be avoided. I used it a couple times and found it "sufficient" but not exactly confidence-inspiring. A buddy just got a new trailer and asked me about installing a winch, so I sold him the 5500 and got busy finding a replacement with a bit more capability. After a lot of researching and a lot of deciding how much I wanted to spend, found one that should suit my purposes (9500lb), with synthetic line, and at a place that had it a good bit cheaper than other places (with free shipping). And surprisingly (from the cheapest seller) it showed up 2 days early (Saturday morning).



This is the Superwinch Tigershark 9500. Superwinch has a pretty good reputation historically (though they've been bought and sold a few times over the years) and the reviews seemed generally very good. No, it's not a Warn Zeon 10, but that wastn' in my budget. It should be a good step-up from the Badlands ones (plus they only make a 9.5k in they lower ZXR line, not the Apex, IIRC). There were a few other choices out there but this one was the right size, price, and I like the control box on the side rather than over the reel, personally.

So, let's get to work. First things first. The old Badlands one was mounted on a UTV plate that I basically welded directly onto my "custom" crossmember under the bumper (if you're following this thread, it's an old Chevy Suburban junkyard trailer hitch, which is BEEFY). So out came the grinders and spent an hour getting that thing off and cleaning up the crossmember.



As you can see, there's a raised plate that's part of the original hitch assembly, which is great reinforcement (and ties it all together). However, it's higher than the rest so thought about various options as to how to make a larger plate fit "over it."

I ran down to harbor freight and bought their large winch mount plate, which is WAY too long for my uses, but just the right width/depth. So first I cut it down to 20" in length (I think it's 36"). I'll note that this thing is some thick metal, not cheap. I got it for $45 I think - which is far less than I'd spend to just buy raw steel and build one myself (and it's nicer than my work anyhow).

Plus I have leftover metal for future projects :)



Anyhow, I decided to chop out the center and basically fit it OVER the raised crossbeam section. This would allow me a lot of weldign contact points (including the ends) and keep it as low as possible as well (by like 1/2" but whatever...). That was a good bit of cutting...

but it fit up pretty well, and just barely left me clearance for the rear winch bolt holes.



Also if you don't remember, the OEM bumper was cut down in the middle for clearance. The bigger tray meant I had to cut it down a bit more.



And then out with the welder, which is a Hobart Handler and still took care of this thick metal with a good bit of slow work and multi-passes...



So with that done, I cleaned it all up, painted it, and put on a couple coats of bedliner. So let's install the winch now. It was pretty straightforward (other than cutting the too-long bolts for the fairlead)

As planned, just a bit of clearance between it and the grille to tuck it in as close as possible without any major cutting of the truck itself.



The winch came with a buss-bar for circuit breaker, but I couldn't find a good way to make it fit on the battery, and frankly don't want power to the winch when I'm not winching anyhow. So I re-used the Badlands on-off power switch (which is rated plenty high for the load of this winch), and didn't install the buss bar (though I may at some point, just as an extra safety step).



I also had to relocate my yellow fog/flood lights since they can't go where they were with this wider winch. In the end just stuck them upside-down below the winch plate, which actually worked out pretty well. We'll see if they get damaged down there but I think they'll be ok since the bumper over-riders stick out a bit further anyhow.



Note that the winch hook on this is massive...almost kind of funny how big it is ;)

So yeah, that's my self-congratulations for working my ass off at my job: A winch I'll use once or twice a year, and a full weekend of cutting, grinding, sweating, and welding lol.