Auxiliary switch pod wiring options

[5280Ranger]

Good evening -

Bare with me, as I am an electrical dunce. I have the Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Pod for my Ranger. I mounted it under the hood, as pictured below.

I am a bit worried about water getting in the connections and causing corrosion. The simple solution is to put some kind of dielectric grease on the connections, but I don't know that I like the plate there. I thought about moving it inside the cab, but I worry about fires (this could be completely irrational, but I dunno...). I was thinking it about mounting it behind the back seats on the cab wall. I haven't looked for mounting options yet, this is just spitballing. I would get large gauge wire and feed it in to the cab to run power to the pod and spider the small gauge wire up to all the accessories.

What things should I consider when running the wires inside the cab? Physically, I know how to run the wires, so I am looking for safety things to be aware of.

Please, ask any questions you need to help guide me to better inform you what I am trying to accomplish... ha!

 

[CaptSourPatch]

Good evening -

Bare with me, as I am an electrical dunce. I have the Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Pod for my Ranger. I mounted it under the hood, as pictured below.

I am a bit worried about water getting in the connections and causing corrosion. The simple solution is to put some kind of dielectric grease on the connections, but I don't know that I like the plate there. I thought about moving it inside the cab, but I worry about fires (this could be completely irrational, but I dunno...). I was thinking it about mounting it behind the back seats on the cab wall. I haven't looked for mounting options yet, this is just spitballing. I would get large gauge wire and feed it in to the cab to run power to the pod and spider the small gauge wire up to all the accessories.

What things should I consider when running the wires inside the cab? Physically, I know how to run the wires, so I am looking for safety things to be aware of.

Please, ask any questions you need to help guide me to better inform you what I am trying to accomplish... ha!

I’m a bit of an electrical dunce as well. I suggest watching “Dirtlifestyle” on youtube. Find his video “Lights, Lockers, Onboard Air, Dual Batteries And More! FULL Off-Road Wiring Guide!” He has some really good explanations in there about wire gauge and electrical in general. His other videos are really good too. They’ve been helpful for me.

 

[smritte]

I am a bit worried about water getting in the connections and causing corrosion

That was my first thought when I saw that. I'm not a fan of putting bare wires into a clamping connector like your output. If possible put terminals on those and seal them . That way as time goes on your connections don't loosen due to the copper wire squishing over time. If done properly the only corrosion will be if the controller manufacture did a poor job making it corrosion resistant.
Read up on Dual wall shrink tubing and run the wiring in either a sleeve or split loom. The sleeve is cleaner and takes up less room. The split loom is bigger but you can add wires to it easier later where as the sleeve your running another. I use sleeves most of the time. Also read up on how to properly crimp wires.

Those wires going behind your mount bracket will cut and short over time. If I have to lay against something like that edge, I use spit loom to protect the wires. I spent almost three decades doing body electrical for GM and I cant count how much cut wiring I've seen like that.

What things should I consider when running the wires inside the cab?

The "correct way" can be almost imposable depending on how much room you have to work with. Cutting a hole and using the proper insulator (pass through) is what you want. What we want isn't always possible though.

Bottom line here is, the wiring cant touch the fire wall and shouldn't be even close to it. Over time the wire ends up shifting and rubbing. Then there's the issue with sealing. I wont get into the how but, your vehicle will pull fumes from the engine compartment as well as leak water if the "pass through" isn't well sealed.

The easy way is to poke a hole in one of the rubber pass through's in your fire wall and sealing it with something that sticks real well to the rubber. I use to use windshield urethane. That stuff rocked. I don't remember what I used the last time I did that, Google search for something that sticks well to rubber, Silicone gasket maker does not stick over time. Regular hard plastic grommets work but insulate poorly and if the hole isn't correct, will come out. Gland nuts are the best but, end up being a bit clunky to install in a tight area. I use gland nuts where ever possible if I need to seal.

Now that you have the wires poking inside you need to secure them. Sleeve's work best inside due to their size. Be very careful how you route and tie back wiring under your dash. I tell people in the business, "alarm and stereo installers will be the bane of your existence". I have seen people "zip tie" to the factory loom and pull that loom against a dash brace. Now those wires get rubbed through and cut. Most of the edges under the dash and seats are not rounded and will cut wires over time.
Again, sharp corners and loose wiring = your field fixing an electrical problem.

Over all vehicle wiring is easy. Seal the ends where your terminals are, route, cover and secure the wiring. Visualize any areas that move so something doesn't cut or pull your loom. Use black zip ties, colored ones get brittle and break over time from engine heat (ok for inside).

 

[North American Sojourner]

Good evening -

Bare with me, as I am an electrical dunce. I have the Auxbeam 8 Gang Switch Pod for my Ranger. I mounted it under the hood, as pictured below.
I am a bit worried about water getting in the connections and causing corrosion. The simple solution is to put some kind of dielectric grease on the connections, but I don't know that I like the plate there. I thought about moving it inside the cab, but I worry about fires (this could be completely irrational, but I dunno...). I was thinking it about mounting it behind the back seats on the cab wall. I haven't looked for mounting options yet, this is just spitballing. I would get large gauge wire and feed it in to the cab to run power to the pod and spider the small gauge wire up to all the accessories.

What things should I consider when running the wires inside the cab? Physically, I know how to run the wires, so I am looking for safety things to be aware of.

Please, ask any questions you need to help guide me to better inform you what I am trying to accomplish... ha!

I'm okay with what ya got there. Don't hate it at all. For the future, get some electrical connectors and heat shrink to make the whole install a little cleaner by shortening the wires. I also agree with Scott, but I see you already have some wire loom on the wire going over the edge. I'd just split a piece of hose and slide it over the side of the metal. Its the same as edge molding. McMaster-Carr has almost everything in the world you could need, including a liver. LOL
edge trim | McMaster-Carr
I use this anywhere I could cut, scrape, a wire or finger, forearm, lip etc...like the front of my GPS and Phone rack.

I use standard battery protector spray to keep the corrosion down. They also sell small packs of diaelectric grease too, but its .... ah.....greasy. LOL
Looks good to me Sir, fine tune it and I'd call it good.
Zim

 

[5280Ranger]

That was my first thought when I saw that. I'm not a fan of putting bare wires into a clamping connector like your output. If possible put terminals on those and seal them . That way as time goes on your connections don't loosen due to the copper wire squishing over time. If done properly the only corrosion will be if the controller manufacture did a poor job making it corrosion resistant.
Read up on Dual wall shrink tubing and run the wiring in either a sleeve or split loom. The sleeve is cleaner and takes up less room. The split loom is bigger but you can add wires to it easier later where as the sleeve your running another. I use sleeves most of the time. Also read up on how to properly crimp wires.

Those wires going behind your mount bracket will cut and short over time. If I have to lay against something like that edge, I use spit loom to protect the wires. I spent almost three decades doing body electrical for GM and I cant count how much cut wiring I've seen like that.



The "correct way" can be almost imposable depending on how much room you have to work with. Cutting a hole and using the proper insulator (pass through) is what you want. What we want isn't always possible though.

Bottom line here is, the wiring cant touch the fire wall and shouldn't be even close to it. Over time the wire ends up shifting and rubbing. Then there's the issue with sealing. I wont get into the how but, your vehicle will pull fumes from the engine compartment as well as leak water if the "pass through" isn't well sealed.

The easy way is to poke a hole in one of the rubber pass through's in your fire wall and sealing it with something that sticks real well to the rubber. I use to use windshield urethane. That stuff rocked. I don't remember what I used the last time I did that, Google search for something that sticks well to rubber, Silicone gasket maker does not stick over time. Regular hard plastic grommets work but insulate poorly and if the hole isn't correct, will come out. Gland nuts are the best but, end up being a bit clunky to install in a tight area. I use gland nuts where ever possible if I need to seal.

Now that you have the wires poking inside you need to secure them. Sleeve's work best inside due to their size. Be very careful how you route and tie back wiring under your dash. I tell people in the business, "alarm and stereo installers will be the bane of your existence". I have seen people "zip tie" to the factory loom and pull that loom against a dash brace. Now those wires get rubbed through and cut. Most of the edges under the dash and seats are not rounded and will cut wires over time.
Again, sharp corners and loose wiring = your field fixing an electrical problem.

Over all vehicle wiring is easy. Seal the ends where your terminals are, route, cover and secure the wiring. Visualize any areas that move so something doesn't cut or pull your loom. Use black zip ties, colored ones get brittle and break over time from engine heat (ok for inside).

The pictures above were not of the completed wiring. There is loom on the wire. Thanks for all the info though. I need to take a minute and reread/digest all the info. I thought about using a connector after I wrapped it around the screw, but I don't want to do anything until I get the rest of my supplies and decide on a final mounting point. I can't remember why I thought a connector wouldn't work when I was doing the install, but there really is no reason it shouldn't. I will be using a connector and heat shrink to make everything nicer.

I'm okay with what ya got there. Don't hate it at all. For the future, get some electrical connectors and heat shrink to make the whole install a little cleaner by shortening the wires. I also agree with Scott, but I see you already have some wire loom on the wire going over the edge. I'd just split a piece of hose and slide it over the side of the metal. Its the same as edge molding. McMaster-Carr has almost everything in the world you could need, including a liver. LOL
edge trim | McMaster-Carr
I use this anywhere I could cut, scrape, a wire or finger, forearm, lip etc...like the front of my GPS and Phone rack.
View attachment 219160 View attachment 219162
I use standard battery protector spray to keep the corrosion down. They also sell small packs of diaelectric grease too, but its .... ah.....greasy. LOL
Looks good to me Sir, fine tune it and I'd call it good.
Zim

Do you have a link to battery protector spray that you use? Dielectric grease always seemed like a bad idea for exactly that reason.

 

[North American Sojourner]

The pictures above were not of the completed wiring. There is loom on the wire. Thanks for all the info though. I need to take a minute and reread/digest all the info. I thought about using a connector after I wrapped it around the screw, but I don't want to do anything until I get the rest of my supplies and decide on a final mounting point. I can't remember why I thought a connector wouldn't work when I was doing the install, but there really is no reason it shouldn't. I will be using a connector and heat shrink to make everything nicer.




Do you have a link to battery protector spray that you use? Dielectric grease always seemed like a bad idea for exactly that reason.

CRC Battery Terminal Protector (autozone.com)
Zim

 

[GrumpyRam]

i would mount it inside something like this https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mtm-S107235-Survivor-Dry-Box-Small-10x7x3-Inch-Orange/37380966 then RTV around the holes you drill for the wiring. you could still mount the box to your bracket. just use the same hardware your using now. looking at that circuit box there are just way to many places for water and moisture intrusion, especially just looking at how muddy your engine bay is where you mounted it.