Another WJ 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee DDable/Weekenderlander (slow project)

[RecklessCreation]

Okay I've worked on 4x4's, fixed, built stuff for them, never actually owned one (injury retired auto Tech/Fabricator, now running the front end of a shop) . All of my vehicles have been fast and low, or nearly stock (not many stock sucks!). Family recently have expressed the want to do more get aways from home, including some camping. So after looking at possible options I figured a Cherokee would be our better option, a Grand Cherokee if possible.

After starting at a new shop, I noticed a WJ Grand out back, found out the owner had sold it to the 'shop'. It had been given a VI for a taillight, unfortunately the shop had found basically every single front end joint to be loose enough not to pass regional DOT. The owner decided it wasn't work fixing, gave it to the shop paying off one of his other vehicle bills.

I asked about it .. shop owner said look it over if it works for you we'll make a deal. threw it up on a lift, yeah front ends loose, drivers seats broken, needs some other lil bits.. but underside is still body color, are mounts are solid, floors solid.. and we make a deal, shop covers all parts needed included in purchase price, I put them in on my own time .. (and because i'm now the one filling the lifts, I've been shooting myself in the foot on that aspect for the past couple months LOL )

anyways .. its 2001 Laredo 4.0L I6, auto, 242 case ... so nothing special



Given that I am fully aware this thing will spend around 80% of it's time on paved roads, and my wife and daughter are short, I won't be doing anything extravagant suspension wise. All of my plans are basically just to enhance whats its got (atleast for now)

Plans are -
Power drivers seat (see above, short wife) .. and the stock drivers seat has a broken frame anyways

armor - sliders, bumpers, diffs, fuel tank, trans/Tcase

Tank tuck! (and putting the tow receiver into the customer rear bumper, should give me nearly 6inchs more clearance back there)

-1.5 OME coils front and rear (heavy rear, probably heavy front too for bumper and winch) with spacers for sag/level after all the added weight goes on
-1.5-2 inch rancho 9000 adjustable front shocks
- air shocks for a chevy 1500 to the measurements of 1.5-2.0 lift for the rear - with a twist, I'll be putting a valve between them so normal operation they will be separated and while offroad they will be linked to help force the lower side of the axle pushed to the ground. I will probably be removing the rear sway and this will hopefully give me the adjust ability for street, offroad and towing
- adjustable lower arms front and rear
- adjustable front track bar
- front sway disconnects
- possibly a heavier front sway for pavement duties

- 245/75/17 duratracs
- trimming fenders where needed to get the most out of the above

as for the overlanding storage and set up stuffs, I won't be using drawers they just aren't an option of loosing daily cargo room, and having to in and out/reload drawers will mean it takes too long to get out and explore.

I'll be doing wing conversions where the back side windows are. and those will access storage in the back via the 'unused' sides of the rear cargo compartment floor to ceiling .. these will be for cooking/supplies, the other side for tools, spares, recovery. The other Storage spot I will be using is the 40 of the 60/40 split rear seat, behind the driver. This will be possible to swap out for the seat if needed, but a frame for a cooler/fridge and I'm not sure what else yet



So that's my story so far... currently just waiting shop time (probably after Xmas) to get all the joints in the front end redone, clean up the brakes, go through the fluids and wait for snow
Beyond weekenderlanding this thing shall be the new family people/stuff mover as I am hoping to be trading in my minivan (ugg) on a Challenger in Jan for a 40th Bday present (yay!)

As for setup and gear for overland/weekenderlanding play .. the WJ itself will only be setup to really support 1 person (ie me) .. while the rest of the family does want to go camping, they want comfy beds and a bathroom LOL.. so I'll be starting a trailer build in the spring too (yay!)

as for the wish list... I'll probably look into beefing/bracing the front 30 .. see if I can get my hands on a 44 and do the same ... Eaton in the back, LSD of some form in the front, 4.11 gears .... and if the 4.0 and the trans give me any grief (at the moment both are working great) ... then probably a s/c 3800 v6 and a 4l60e (deeper 1st, slightly better o/d) .. 'high steer' kit ... etc etc ..

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

Okay I've worked on 4x4's, fixed, built stuff for them, never actually owned one (injury retired auto Tech/Fabricator, now running the front end of a shop) . All of my vehicles have been fast and low, or nearly stock (not many stock sucks!). Family recently have expressed the want to do more get aways from home, including some camping. So after looking at possible options I figured a Cherokee would be our better option, a Grand Cherokee if possible.

After starting at a new shop, I noticed a WJ Grand out back, found out the owner had sold it to the 'shop'. It had been given a VI for a taillight, unfortunately the shop had found basically every single front end joint to be loose enough not to pass regional DOT. The owner decided it wasn't work fixing, gave it to the shop paying off one of his other vehicle bills.

I asked about it .. shop owner said look it over if it works for you we'll make a deal. threw it up on a lift, yeah front ends loose, drivers seats broken, needs some other lil bits.. but underside is still body color, are mounts are solid, floors solid.. and we make a deal, shop covers all parts needed included in purchase price, I put them in on my own time .. (and because i'm now the one filling the lifts, I've been shooting myself in the foot on that aspect for the past couple months LOL )

anyways .. its 2001 Laredo 4.0L I6, auto, 242 case ... so nothing special

View attachment 131519

Given that I am fully aware this thing will spend around 80% of it's time on paved roads, and my wife and daughter are short, I won't be doing anything extravagant suspension wise. All of my plans are basically just to enhance whats its got (atleast for now)

Plans are -
Power drivers seat (see above, short wife) .. and the stock drivers seat has a broken frame anyways

armor - sliders, bumpers, diffs, fuel tank, trans/Tcase

Tank tuck! (and putting the tow receiver into the customer rear bumper, should give me nearly 6inchs more clearance back there)

-1.5 OME coils front and rear (heavy rear, probably heavy front too for bumper and winch) with spacers for sag/level after all the added weight goes on
-1.5-2 inch rancho 9000 adjustable front shocks
- air shocks for a chevy 1500 to the measurements of 1.5-2.0 lift for the rear - with a twist, I'll be putting a valve between them so normal operation they will be separated and while offroad they will be linked to help force the lower side of the axle pushed to the ground. I will probably be removing the rear sway and this will hopefully give me the adjust ability for street, offroad and towing
- adjustable lower arms front and rear
- adjustable front track bar
- front sway disconnects
- possibly a heavier front sway for pavement duties

- 245/75/17 duratracs
- trimming fenders where needed to get the most out of the above

as for the overlanding storage and set up stuffs, I won't be using drawers they just aren't an option of loosing daily cargo room, and having to in and out/reload drawers will mean it takes too long to get out and explore.

I'll be doing wing conversions where the back side windows are. and those will access storage in the back via the 'unused' sides of the rear cargo compartment floor to ceiling .. these will be for cooking/supplies, the other side for tools, spares, recovery. The other Storage spot I will be using is the 40 of the 60/40 split rear seat, behind the driver. This will be possible to swap out for the seat if needed, but a frame for a cooler/fridge and I'm not sure what else yet



So that's my story so far... currently just waiting shop time (probably after Xmas) to get all the joints in the front end redone, clean up the brakes, go through the fluids and wait for snow
Beyond weekenderlanding this thing shall be the new family people/stuff mover as I am hoping to be trading in my minivan (ugg) on a Challenger in Jan for a 40th Bday present (yay!)

As for setup and gear for overland/weekenderlanding play .. the WJ itself will only be setup to really support 1 person (ie me) .. while the rest of the family does want to go camping, they want comfy beds and a bathroom LOL.. so I'll be starting a trailer build in the spring too (yay!)

as for the wish list... I'll probably look into beefing/bracing the front 30 .. see if I can get my hands on a 44 and do the same ... Eaton in the back, LSD of some form in the front, 4.11 gears .... and if the 4.0 and the trans give me any grief (at the moment both are working great) ... then probably a s/c 3800 v6 and a 4l60e (deeper 1st, slightly better o/d) .. 'high steer' kit ... etc etc ..

Looking forward to seeing your progress. I currently run the OME HD springs on my WJ with Bilstein 5100's. I have a set of JK wheels running LT245/70R17 AT3W's with no rubbing. I'd recommend those wheels or something else with a lower offset over stock as that will help with bigger tires. Iron Rock Offroad has a bit of good stuff. I run their extended swaybar endlinks and a high clearance transmission crossmember. I have yet to install their tcase skid plate, but it is stout. Check out my build page in my signature if you'd like.

 

[tjZ06]

I always love a good WJ build! Congrats on the score. Some thoughts...

• IMHO the best off-the-shelf sliders for WJs are Kevin's: Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Rock Sliders w/ FREE SHIPPING (Lower 48) | KevinsOffroad.com / Overland-Ready.com I heard somewhere he's looking at retiring, so I'd jump on those while they're available
• Kevin's also has a nice over-the-knuckle steering kit: Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ Over the Knuckle Tie Rod Kit | KevinsOffroad.com / Overland-Ready.com
• With everything you have planned, I think you'll spend more $ piecing together your intended 1.5" lift, adjustable arms, armor, track bar, etc. vs. just doing an off-the-shelf-kit. A 4" kit really isn't super-high on a WJ and maintains excellent road manners. I have IRO's 4" Rock Link with front long-arm (rear is just coils/shocks and spacer): WJ 4" ROCK-LINK Long Arm Lift Kit - Iron Rock Off Road And LOVE it. It flexes great, and drives really, really nice onroad. Obviously long-arming the rear too would make it articulate even more, but I just don't think it's necessary at this "stage" of a build. They now offer the "Plus" option for $500 to short-arm the rear, but honestly I'd probably stick with the stock rear stuff unless yours is shot, OR I'd go all the way to rear long arm (in other words: I don't see the benefit so much of the rear short-arm if your current stuff is good).
• Another option for the lift that will give you a full-belly skid is Trail Forged's kit: WJ Complete Front to Rear 4 link with flat belly skid - Trail Forged It's intended for a more hardcore wheeler, and I haven't driven one so I can't say how it is on-road but I don't see why it'd be much worse with a moderate wheel/tire package. They can set this lift up for you as low as 3" as well, if you really want to keep your rig a little shorter.
• I'd really re-think the air shocks. You're in the automotive field, so I won't harp on it too much but I'd prefer a good standard hydraulic shock and a helper bag in the coils or something like that if you *must* have air-assist.
• I'd also reconsider ditching the rear sway bar. I actually went UP in rear sway size to an Addco bar and I LOVE how it feels onroad - and as you'll see from pics in my thread the rig still flexes plenty with the front bar disconnected and the rear bar hooked up. Leaving the rear bar hooked up when wheeling really helps with the side-to-side floppy feeling solid-axle rigs can have.

I'm sure you already saw it, but here's my build thread if you're interested in ideas: 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Build



-TJ

 

[RecklessCreation]

Thanks for the input guys, never and issue hearing from the guys that have done it ;) ... as for going up to a 4inch, I'm already getting grief for 1.5-2.0 and little bigger tires hahaha.. if I like it and the wife hates it and it becomes more mine, then family a 4inch long arm is in it's future.

and yeah I do completely understand the piecing together the kit being more expensive in the end... but also not sure it's going to need the adjustable arms yet, and I hate buying a kit and then rebuying half of it anyways.

I do absolutely agree with you on the air shocks, if I was trying to use them to combat sagging springs, or added lift, or anything other then just altering/tweaking how the suspension acts (and the added part of linking them for offroading, helping force the lower wheel of the rear axle down to the ground) .. which was actually the purpose of air shocks (and maybe occasionally added weight). But yes how I normally see people try to use air shocks they get a bad rap.

we'll see about the rear sway ... I've just seen alot of people have it plain get in the way when they start lifting

as for the armor and bits... I caught between building my own and buying premade ... my biggest problem is knowing in my head what I want, and trying to find premade stuff that isn't rediculously priced just cause it's for a WJ .. don't get me wrong, some of the stuff is really nice, and someone spent the time to figure exactly where it fits and cad parts, etc... but the simple rock sliders online will double in price by the time they get here to me, ie convert from US to CND $ and shipping. but for things like the tucked up winch mounts, the low profile crossmember those are definately worth the price. but personally for some tube welded up under my rockers materials and time I can do for less then the $800 it would end up costing me. and some of the parts are just WAY more heavy duty then I need... I just need a well placed winch, and something I can rub against trees and rocks, not 1/4 plate rock crawler bumpers haha

 

[JimBill]

I'd be careful on the air shocks. With both shocks connected you can get in an off camber situation and have the low side compress and force extension of the high side. This could be enough to send the rig over. And I'm with tjZ06, keep the rear sway bar. The biggest off road improvement on the WJ is disconnecting the front sway bar. The rear, especially with a load and stock bar, flexes increadibly well. Good luck with the build!

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

I'd be careful on the air shocks. With both shocks connected you can get in an off camber situation and have the low side compress and force extension of the high side. This could be enough to send the rig over. And I'm with tjZ06, keep the rear sway bar. The biggest off road improvement on the WJ is disconnecting the front sway bar. The rear, especially with a load and stock bar, flexes increadibly well. Good luck with the build!

I run longer end links to help with driveability both on and off road. Although I'm sure disconnects up front would be better

 

[tjZ06]

I run longer end links to help with driveability both on and off road. Although I'm sure disconnects up front would be better

Longer end-links to return the swaybar to the right angle at ride-height after lifting, correct? Longer end-links (of matched length) won't change how a sway bar performs, they just return the arms to the proper clocking after lifting.

-TJ

 

[RecklessCreation]

Thanks guys, All input is always appreciated. There will definately be alot of trial and error with the setup of the air shocks.

The most frustrating part right now is looking at the box of parts and waiting for the spot to fit it into the shop, get the basics done and start on the mods.

If it looks like it might take much past Xmas/new years weeks to sneak it into the shop I may start on the fuel tank tuck and the rear storage at home.

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

Longer end-links to return the swaybar to the right angle at ride-height after lifting, correct? Longer end-links (of matched length) won't change how a sway bar performs, they just return the arms to the proper clocking after lifting.

-TJ

Correct, I lifted about 2-2.5 in on the OME springs and added the IRO end links for that size lift. They claim to allow better articulation over factory. Judging from the design differences and field testing, I'd say they work much better than a factory design off-road and ride about as nice on road.

 

[tjZ06]

Correct, I lifted about 2-2.5 in on the OME springs and added the IRO end links for that size lift. They claim to allow better articulation over factory. Judging from the design differences and field testing, I'd say they work much better than a factory design off-road and ride about as nice on road.

Gotcha... makes sense. I've been very pleased with all of my stuff from IRO, glad you have been too. We're going to need a WJ club on here soon! ;)

-TJ

 

[RecklessCreation]

Figured I'd revive and update this thread.

Definitely not a forgotten project. In fact it finally managed to make its way into the shop. It got all of it's front end joints replaced, drag link, track bar, and even the brakes (including an upgrade to the newer version calipers), and wheel bearings. Had the starter rebuilt, and the alternator rebuilt.

shortly after getting it moving on its own again, I got to test the 4wd system (and low range). Towing a Ram that currently doesn't have a driveline behind the motor while we wait for the owner to make a decision about the trans he exploded.

the Jeep is currently still sitting there being the Dodges parking brake haha, hopefully it'll be freed in the next few days once the rebuild trans arrives and I can get back to fixing/modding things



In the mean time.... I got a new 'money pit' ... I mean.. daily driver.

 

[JimBill]

It is funny how all mod plans seem to have 6 months to a year added to the original planning. No worries on the progress, life happens! Good job taking care of basics first. I figured I'd have mine lifted 6 to 8 months after buying it.... still have not bought the kit. Other mods, fixes, bills, and fine tuning what I already have appeared in the meantime. Once you start driving the vehicle it will start telling you what it wants next.
Cheers!

 

[RecklessCreation]

haha no kidding. I knew it was going to be a slow build, if nothing more then just a pure lack of time to work on it. at this point I just want it ready to go if any really nasty weather appears, especially after trading in the current 'family/stuff' mover (ie minivan) in finally on a Challenger (which was a portion of the point of getting the WJ).

Still have a couple leaks, and possibly a tune up to go through as the jeep sat so long, as I wait to be able to purchase stuff like suspension parts, the winch mount and bumper kits i'm gonna use. also gonna grab some material to build my rock sliders, and do the fuel tank tuck (I think I have to drop the tank anyways as my fuel gauge keeps randomly not working). and start on my storage solutions

So the custom storage things I'm working on -
1. I'll be walling off each side of the rear compartment at the inside edge of the wheel tubs from floor to ceiling from back seat to hatch, and then converted my 2 rear wing windows into solid access doors. on the drivers side the access door will go down and that side will have water access, food/survival type things. on the passenger side it'll be an up swing and house things like tools, parts, and recovery gear.

2. One of the reasons I went after the grand cherokee over a standard (other then comfy) was the rear 60/40 split seat puts the 40 side of the split behind the driver, which in my case with my height usually the seat behind me is all but useless for other people. This will allow me to remove said small section of rear seat, and put in a slide out to house a powered fridge/cooler, and a 'chuck box'/kitchen. The slide will be a bolt in/out frame, so the seat can be reinstalled if needed.

If anyone doesn't know ... if your projects can start and move... don't let them just sit, it's horrible for them... I didn't pay attention to my own advice, my starter, alternator, fuel gauge, brake switch, all worked great when I parked it at my place last year and I just 'forgot' about it till it was time to bring it back to the shop.

 

[JimBill]

So the custom storage things I'm working on -
1. I'll be walling off each side of the rear compartment at the inside edge of the wheel tubs from floor to ceiling from back seat to hatch, and then converted my 2 rear wing windows into solid access doors. on the drivers side the access door will go down and that side will have water access, food/survival type things. on the passenger side it'll be an up swing and house things like tools, parts, and recovery gear.

2. One of the reasons I went after the grand cherokee over a standard (other then comfy) was the rear 60/40 split seat puts the 40 side of the split behind the driver, which in my case with my height usually the seat behind me is all but useless for other people. This will allow me to remove said small section of rear seat, and put in a slide out to house a powered fridge/cooler, and a 'chuck box'/kitchen. The slide will be a bolt in/out frame, so the seat can be reinstalled if needed.

Usually it is me and my lady, and I just pull the seat bottoms and fold the tops down and have the open back. I place the cooler and mess kit by the hatch and lay duffle bags cross wise on the rest. All the recovery gear goes into the passenger foot well area. gas and fluids go on the roof, and I have a rack I mount if I really need extra space. It works for me for now, but if I have to exhume the recovery gear and spare tire, I have a little unloading to do. I think over time the vehicle will morph into a dedicated rig with more and more features hard mounted and quick access.

Your storage plan is novel and a very good use of space. I'll be very interested in following as the mod progresses. I'm 6'4 so the seat behind me is definitely useless for another person so point well made. I have had the same thought for a bolt in slider for the cooler or fridge.

I am hoping someone comes out with a Mollie panel for the drivers side rear window area, that would be a simple compromise for us that are less motivated/skilled.

 

[tjZ06]

haha no kidding. I knew it was going to be a slow build, if nothing more then just a pure lack of time to work on it. at this point I just want it ready to go if any really nasty weather appears, especially after trading in the current 'family/stuff' mover (ie minivan) in finally on a Challenger (which was a portion of the point of getting the WJ).

Still have a couple leaks, and possibly a tune up to go through as the jeep sat so long, as I wait to be able to purchase stuff like suspension parts, the winch mount and bumper kits i'm gonna use. also gonna grab some material to build my rock sliders, and do the fuel tank tuck (I think I have to drop the tank anyways as my fuel gauge keeps randomly not working). and start on my storage solutions

So the custom storage things I'm working on -
1. I'll be walling off each side of the rear compartment at the inside edge of the wheel tubs from floor to ceiling from back seat to hatch, and then converted my 2 rear wing windows into solid access doors. on the drivers side the access door will go down and that side will have water access, food/survival type things. on the passenger side it'll be an up swing and house things like tools, parts, and recovery gear.

2. One of the reasons I went after the grand cherokee over a standard (other then comfy) was the rear 60/40 split seat puts the 40 side of the split behind the driver, which in my case with my height usually the seat behind me is all but useless for other people. This will allow me to remove said small section of rear seat, and put in a slide out to house a powered fridge/cooler, and a 'chuck box'/kitchen. The slide will be a bolt in/out frame, so the seat can be reinstalled if needed.

If anyone doesn't know ... if your projects can start and move... don't let them just sit, it's horrible for them... I didn't pay attention to my own advice, my starter, alternator, fuel gauge, brake switch, all worked great when I parked it at my place last year and I just 'forgot' about it till it was time to bring it back to the shop.

That sounds like a great build-out for the rear. I'm kicking around all sorts of ideas myself.


If you follow that gentleman, he's done lots of neat stuff with his WJ, including making the rearmost windows access hatches like you're interested in doing. You might find his videos helpful. I'm not a huge fan of the WK2 light swap he did, but otherwise he did very clean work of opening up and extending his fenders too (much later vids than this one). Also, I know we'd all love it if you document your tank-tuck!

What are you going to do for the front bumper/winch mount? I did the HK setup, and it came out pretty nice (if I do say so myself). There are VERY few front bumpers I like for WJs because most have the fat-lip look. Hindsight 20/20, I wasn't thaaaaat far off the price of the Trail Forged bumper I like: WJ Modular Front Bumper - Stubby Bumper and Outer Wings - Trail Forged which is about 2x what I spent on the HK stuff. I love the look of the TF unit, though to make it "work" you really need the fender flares and such. Overall I'm very happy with the quality, strength, and thought put into the mounting of the HK unit and the owner/operator was VERY responsive to any questions I had (answering texts instantly even on the weekend). WJ Hidden Winch Mount

Anyway, as for your storage solution, another thought are these molle panels built by that same guy: WJ REAR SIDE WINDOW MOLLE PANEL KIT They're made for having opening rear windows like you're planning, otherwise they'd block off a huge area of usable space. But, just a thought if you're going that direction that'll save some of the work you had planned, create great usable space (though, accessible from the outside only) but not burn as much of the interior space.

-TJ

 

[tjZ06]

Usually it is me and my lady, and I just pull the seat bottoms and fold the tops down and have the open back. I place the cooler and mess kit by the hatch and lay duffle bags cross wise on the rest. All the recovery gear goes into the passenger foot well area. gas and fluids go on the roof, and I have a rack I mount if I really need extra space. It works for me for now, but if I have to exhume the recovery gear and spare tire, I have a little unloading to do. I think over time the vehicle will morph into a dedicated rig with more and more features hard mounted and quick access.

Your storage plan is novel and a very good use of space. I'll be very interested in following as the mod progresses. I'm 6'4 so the seat behind me is definitely useless for another person so point well made. I have had the same thought for a bolt in slider for the cooler or fridge.

I am hoping someone comes out with a Mollie panel for the drivers side rear window area, that would be a simple compromise for us that are less motivated/skilled.

See the link I provided above for the molle panel. However, as I mentioned if you don't have access through the window then they create a lot of dead space. I wonder how well a slider out the rear driver's side door would work? The opening is a pretty odd shape, and very narrow at the bottom so the fridge would have to sit rather high. Myself, I'm thinking of something pretty basic like this:


I have a cousin who builds high-end custom speaker boxes, who is currently without work (stereo installs are very non-essential) so I've been thinking about asking him to take it on as a side-job. A few changes I'd be considering for my "version" of this:

• I'd be permanently removing at least the passenger side rear seat (the "60" of the 60/40) perhaps both
• Originally I envisioned a 1-person sleeping build, so I thought I would leave the driver's side rear seat (the "40" of the 60/40) as a spot to sit down, take off my boots, and then slide over onto the sleeping area. However, I'd like my better-half to join me on more of these trips, so I think I'm ditching that approach.
• The area that used to be the passenger side rear footwell would be where I'd mount my 2nd battery (with isolator and an inverter) and any other additional electronics
• The area that used to be the driver side rear footwell and rear lower seat cushion (since there wouldn't be a full-length drawer on this side) would be dedicated to tools, recovery gear etc.
• I'd want a slide-out drawer on the passenger side that runs the length of the rear cargo area and what used to be the rear seat-bottom, but stops shy of the aforementioned battery area (so the battery and electronics can be accessed via access panels "top side")
• I'd leave the driver's side as free storage and set it up so my camp-chairs and "bathroom shelter" can slide in
• I'd run some cleats around the perimeter so I can secure my camping tubs, water, etc.
• I'd make the whole thing short enough in standard configuration that both front seats can slide all the way rearward, but...
• ...I'd have a "flip forward" extension with some fold-out legs that deploy so that I can move both front seats all the way forward at camp then flip the platform extension out for maximum space

Obviously there'd be a lot to change once I get in there and start looking at how it'd actually layout. I might have to limit the passenger seat a tiny bit to fit a battery box cleanly, but my better half is a lot shorter than me. I'd also think about some sort of side-access to the driver side "rear seat and footwell" area storage. If that's where my recovery gear and handy things like jumper cables are, I wouldn't want have to unload anything on top of the flip-forward extension and slide both seats forward to access it. Perhaps it's wiser to just put all the tools/recover gear in a "tub" that I secure on top of the platform at the very back so it's the first thing to come out when you lift the hatch. I could use the space I had planned for that stuff for things that you only access once you get to camp and setup like dry-goods for cooking, paper goods, etc.

IDK, so much to think about... I just need to get something roughed-in and play around with it. I think the first step is just taking a sheet of plywood, making a super basic 2x6" frame to set it up at the height I'm thinking, and lay on the thing and see if I hate being that close to the roof. If it's too coffin-like for me, then I think the build looks much more like just an insert to take the place of the rear seats and still provide the storage in the footwells I described above, and still have a flip-forward extension (albeit notched AROUND the center console instead of OVER it).

-TJ

 

[RecklessCreation]

yeah I found spiral designs videos when I started researching the idea. definitely helpful to see which factory stuff will work nicely

traveling/camping/exploring will be geared towards the whole family (me, wife, kiddo). I do have a possible 'crazy' idea to make a flip top camp conversion (basically make a roof top tent into the body of the jeep... getting rid of ALOT of the weight of the protective shell) .. but we'll see .. cause I have plans to build a camping trailer to super specific needs, and if it's all of us camping it'll be in the trailer (wife and kid want a bathroom, and padded bucket doesn't count) ... if its just me out exploring for a weekend or something ... just using the rear cargo area is sufficient

the main reason for the walled off sides (only 8 inches in, and most of that is normally unused interior panel covered stuff) is quick access to trail stuff ... and the fact that the jeep has to be daily-able so no platforms, or slider racks, etc in the rear cargo area ... if I have to pull them in and out to take off for a night or weekend... I won't... where as if it's just grab a bag or two, and possibly stop at a store on the way out to grab some supplies ... I'll do that .. and get out more. it also makes a good "just incase" type platform (same with the planned trailer, winter before this one, people in our area were without power/heat, etc for 5-7 days, do to a really bad snow storm ) .. .I'm not a prepper, or an apocalypse hoarder or which ever, however I do believe in disaster preparedness ... I live on an island, in a known tsunami/earthquake zone, that can get some really freak fast nasty storms, everyone should be able to be on your own for atleast 3 days

as for the bumpers.... for the front I am going to combine the hidden winch kit, and another DIY plate kit I can't remember the name of (from a diff company) ... the HK hidden winch full prepped bumper was really nice.. but silly expensive and over built for my specific wants/needs ... I also have good relations with a couple fab shops that keep plate in their inventory and have cnc plasma tables .. and I've found a couple plans only for sale places so we'll see which method.

Time is still a major constraint as the mechanic shop is still 'essential service' in the current world crisis, we've slowed down the intakes, limiting shop access for customers (pretty much solely drop off only, no hanging around) and cleaning so much I can still taste the cleaners when I go home each night.

we'll see what the future brings... being locked down with a possibly empty shop to play in and hide from the world ... might get stuff done sooner (but I may also just spend that time on the new challenger LOL ) .. however I can't see my boss letting the shop sit idle in the case of a forced 'shut down' , and 'project' spots would fill up

 

[tjZ06]

I do have a possible 'crazy' idea to make a flip top camp conversion (basically make a roof top tent into the body of the jeep... getting rid of ALOT of the weight of the protective shell) ...

That's a cool idea, there's a company that makes them for JKs and JLs, but they are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$: Ursa Minor Vehicles Jeep Campers I don't know if I'd recomend the same idea with a WJ unless you build a cage structure in first, being a unibody and all (as opposed to a body-on-frame Wrangler designed to go roofless from the start). I think it'd be super-cool, but man it'd be one major project that might turn into more of a blocker to actually using the rig

...if it's all of us camping it'll be in the trailer (wife and kid want a bathroom, and padded bucket doesn't count) ... if its just me out exploring for a weekend or something ... just using the rear cargo area is sufficient...

Yeah, it's hard to justify too much time/effort/money into a complex build-out. That's where I'm still kinda on the fence. If we do longer trips, or any time we take the dogs, they'll be with our 5'er (the Jeep may still come along, but it won't be our living space). I could see doing 5'er trips with my girl and the dogs where I drive the truck/trailer out, she drives the Jeep, and we setup for a week+ and maybe 1 or 2 nights here or there I take the Jeep out further solo (maybe with other friends in their rigs, but the ladies, kids, dogs, etc. stay back with the trailers). For solo trips I could probably just make a super basic "insert" to completely remove the rear seats, slide the fronts forward, and fill-in that whole area once I get to camp. Now, if my girl does start going on trips with me, and leaving the dogs behind, I could see the rear build-out helping a lot. I guess we'll see.

...the main reason for the walled off sides (only 8 inches in, and most of that is normally unused interior panel covered stuff) is quick access to trail stuff ... and the fact that the jeep has to be daily-able so no platforms, or slider racks, etc in the rear cargo area ... if I have to pull them in and out to take off for a night or weekend... I won't... where as if it's just grab a bag or two, and possibly stop at a store on the way out to grab some supplies ... I'll do that .. and get out more. it also makes a good "just incase" type platform (same with the planned trailer, winter before this one, people in our area were without power/heat, etc for 5-7 days, do to a really bad snow storm ) .. .I'm not a prepper, or an apocalypse hoarder or which ever, however I do believe in disaster preparedness ... I live on an island, in a known tsunami/earthquake zone, that can get some really freak fast nasty storms, everyone should be able to be on your own for atleast 3 days

Makes sense.

as for the bumpers.... for the front I am going to combine the hidden winch kit, and another DIY plate kit I can't remember the name of (from a diff company) ... the HK hidden winch full prepped bumper was really nice.. but silly expensive and over built for my specific wants/needs ... I also have good relations with a couple fab shops that keep plate in their inventory and have cnc plasma tables .. and I've found a couple plans only for sale places so we'll see which method.

Time is still a major constraint as the mechanic shop is still 'essential service' in the current world crisis, we've slowed down the intakes, limiting shop access for customers (pretty much solely drop off only, no hanging around) and cleaning so much I can still taste the cleaners when I go home each night.

we'll see what the future brings... being locked down with a possibly empty shop to play in and hide from the world ... might get stuff done sooner (but I may also just spend that time on the new challenger LOL ) .. however I can't see my boss letting the shop sit idle in the case of a forced 'shut down' , and 'project' spots would fill up

Looking forward to seeing how your bumper turns out, and getting ideas for building off the HK kit if I ever decide to go that route.

-TJ

 

[RecklessCreation]

this is the bumper I intend ... 99-04 WJ NON-Winch Bumper Kit - DIY Off Road .. I need to still check into just plans and having a local connection fab shop plasma table the steel (current world conditions making that difficult ofcourse) cause USD -> CND ... and shipping for the cut steel might get a little silly (however still WAY better then the final cost of a prebuilt bumper) ... looks good, decent approach angles, radiator protection ... I'll probably add some light tubing for grill/light protection

and graft it into the HK hidden winch mount, both for strength and keep a relatively low profile to the front end WJ Hidden Winch Mount
I don't need an entire bumper of 1/4 steel plate... however it is a fantastic anchor point/chassis brace/mount to start from

and as a side note ... my boss just gave me a winch haha ... it's one of the costco 'snap on' 10000 lb winchs ... it works good (we've used it fairly regularly to bring disabled vehicles into the shop) .. however it has solenoid issues I'll have to fix, and i'll probably switch it to synthetic line. The cost is I have to remove it and install the new warn winch that's been sitting at the shop for a year on his jeep LOL

Still need to figure out what I want to do for sliders. I'd love to just mod a set of oem overlander sliders, but geez did those get expensive fast haha

 

[OTH Overland]

We have been been brainstorming ideas for outfitting the interior of our WJ. We currently remove the lower back seats, fold down the upper portion and use a plywood sheet to make the platform longer. Problems are; we have to remove all of our gear and place it under the Jeep when we sleep or pile things up in the front seats. We have recently adopted an older German Shepard who has trouble getting in and out of the Jeep when seats are folded, and we would like her to be separated from gear and equipment that may come loose and move around.

Its time to get some cheap plywood and see what we can come up with and give it some field trials, that way we can make tweaks before building a final version, probably out of steel tube and cabinet grade plywood. Thinking about a two part box/platform 10 inches tall. Part one would be between tailgate and rear seats in upright position and would be anchored in place remaining in the rig full time. one side would contain a full depth drawer for recovery and emergency equipment (to ensure its always in the Jeep and easy access even when camping gear is on top) The other side would contain a drawer style refrigerator. The front section would be installed in place of lower seat bottoms for trips (I did a test and a half inch plywood sheet sits on the raised area of the floor and still allows the seat backs to fold.) Rubberized pad on top of this platform for the fur beast to ride on (a lot lower than current seat level) small amount of open storage under this platform. Upon arriving at camp, the seat backs would fold down and three platform extensions would be dropped in place to create a level sleeping platform at same height as the rear platform. This leaves a 10 inch tall open space above the seat backs for food and camping totes to slide in from the rear doors. Clothing and personal items can store in front seats. Platform extensions stack vertically between rear seat backs and the rear platform. This project will also require completion of another planned project 'rear tire carrier' as the rear storage platform will prevent access to the factory spare storage area. (plan on removing the cover over the spare tire area before installing the storage box, removing the drawer from its slide will allow access thru the bottom into the tire storage area which will be used for a second battery and on board compressor. The rear tire carrier project will be home brew due to not being able to find a suitable commercial product for the WJ. I would prefer not to remove or butcher the factory rear bumper, do not like the cheap hitch mount carriers, nor want to spend over a grand for the Rigd hitch mount. Now to get out and get some measurements and ideas off the Jeep