A Wander Up Fraser Canyon - In search of the past

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Hello Overland Bounders! I thought I'd share a little 1 day adventure I just took with a good buddy of mine. Our objective was to explore the seldom-trodden paths of the famous Fraser Canyon. Having driven the canyon many times with my family as a child, I, like most folks, had really only experienced the freeway at 80-110 kph with very few stops along the way. I recently did some digging into the history of the canyon and was inspired to explore some of the out-of-the-way areas one simply doesn't see while cruising through.

I mapped out a route on Gaia GPS. Unfortunately the trip was limited to 1 day only due to the recent arrival of my fifth child, but my wife was gracious enough to give me her blessing for the day of adventure, so off we went. We left home about 10:30am after hooking up my buddy's CB radio in his rig and hit the freeway headed for Hope.

We ended up meeting up with some work buddies in Hope just by chance as they were headed to a different part of the interior for hunting.

Our first major stop was Yale.
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During the 1860's gold rush, Yale was a major boom town and a hub of travel on the Mighty Muddy Fraser. It was the start of the famous Cariboo Wagon Road, the first major land transportation artery through the canyon, which was subsequently usurped in part by the CN railway line later in the 1800's. Nowadays, Yale is a tiny, sleepy little town with little more than a gas station, a couple of minor historic sites, and some houses. The most impressive and lovely of the historic buildings of Yale is its historic church:
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As much as I love old buildings, the natural beauty of the area surpasses all of them. We explored what appeared to be a very old, disused, dead-end road on the outskirts of town. I noticed this road on the map and was curious as to the way it seems to "transform" into the railway line at one point - I suspect that this is a remnant of the old Cariboo road in one of the places it was overlaid by the railway. Driving down it rewarded us with spectacular views:
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I found out through a bit of digging that the rock island in the first pic is called The Lady Franklin. This is the blurb about it from the Travel the Canyon website:

The Lady Franklin is a beautiful large rock, or some say an island in the middle of the Fraser River in Hope BC. This rock island was named after Lady Jane Franklin, wife of Sir John Franklin an early explorer who loved this area. This beautiful area is located along the Old Caribou Wagon Trail. To get there drive along the Trans-Canada Highway east bound through Yale, across the small bridge take the first right, and follow the road that runs alongside the Fraser River for a couple minutes. This is a great picnic spot.

The structure behind my rig is a strange little roof-shelter-thingy with two lawn chairs and a carved wooden sign that says "please respect this property." We also saw some guys out fishing on the river. I considered hailing them on my loudspeaker just for fun, but thought better of it. Wouldn't want to be accused of scaring the fish away!
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There was a similar structure on the far side of the river in a much worse state of repair. Quite interesting. The rock island appeared to be accessible via a natural rock bridge with the water at its current level, and a quick glance at the map suggested there may be a road on the far side that originates somewhere further up the canyon. Somewhere to explore on a other trip. After this, we headed on to our next stop, a curiousity I spotted on a recent drive down the canyon on the freeway: a wrecked vehicle in the middle of a huge rock slide near Spuzzum.

Spuzzum, the butt of many jokes of long time BC residents, is a very tiny, very dilapidated little village along the highway. The very embodiment of "blink and you'll miss it." In its heyday, it was more significant, but it was never much to speak of. We did see its best, perhaps its last, historically significant building, however, this house:

Painted by Michael Kluckner for his lovely book and website Vanishing BC, the contents of which largely inspired this trip. You can read more about Spuzzum and its buildings here: https://www.michaelkluckner.com/bciw6spuzzum.html
Apparently in its prime, this was the old hotel in Spuzzum, which apparently resembles one built in Boston Bar, further north.

After a brief tour of Spuzzum, we headed up a nearby forestry road which I figured would lead us to the best opportunity to explore the mysterious wreck I saw from the freeway. At the top of the road, we were rewarded with a splendid view of our next scheduled stop, the Old Alexandra Bridge:
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More on that later, however, as after a bit of poking around, we spotted the wreck:
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From a distance, I had thought this was a pickup, but as you can see it's a sedan of some kind. It's very mysterious to me. Perhaps a stolen car, perhaps some very unfortunate motorists exploring the FSR who made a wrong turn, or maybe something else. Who knows? More to follow...
 
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After turning around and heading back down the FSR, we took a brief jaunt down the freeway and across the "new" Alexandra Bridge (if you call the 60's new) we found our way to the Old Alexandra Bridge Provincial Park. We parked the rigs and took a brief hike down a path that was actually once the old freeway, which led us to the bridge:
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This was a special part of the trip for me, not only because of the stunning natural beauty of the area and the strangely beautiful decay of the old bridge, but because I realized that my father, who was born in 1942 in New Westminster and spent most of his teenage years in Penticton in the interior, probably drove across this very bridge many times. The bridge and its environs seemed to me an interesting commentary on the past and the fragility of man's works that I very much enjoyed exploring.

This is a closer view of the first pier shown above:
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The circular indentation at the peak of the arch once held a bronze disc with the coat of arms of BC on it. The opposite pier had one as well. Probably taken by vandals. It was a bit sad to see how much graffiti covered the bridge and what a sad state of disrepair it was in. Obviously the BC government has grossly neglected it over the years, which is too bad, because it really is a very lovely bridge. This is actually the second bridge at this site, as the first one, built by the Royal Engineers, was irreparably in massive flooding in the late 1800's.
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I was extra careful not to drop my phone as those gaps are definitely big enough for it to fit through.
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She's definitely seen better days. The bridge is getting to be a bit sketch to say the least.
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The far side of the bridge (originally the Yale end) with my adventure buddy and his coffee.

We followed the remnant of the old highway about a hundred meters south and came to a massive washout that had obliterated the road. You can just see where the highway continues on the far side. We could have clambered across, as there was very little water in the creek, however we decided to leave it for another day:
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On our way back, we took a jaunt underneath the bridge for a photo op:
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After poking around underneath the bridge for a bit, we hiked back to our rigs and headed off for the next leg of the journey, which I will have to leave for another post, as it's past my bedtime. More to follow!
 
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The next stop on our journey, which I nearly forgot, was the Alexandra Lodge:
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IMG_20181011_133417376_HDR.jpg The Lodge, with its strange hodge-podge appearance, seems to be pieced together from bits of other buildings. There has been an Alexandra Lodge at this site going back a very long time, however, and apparently in its heyday, this was a very popular roadhouse for travellers headed into Vancouver to stop over for a rest before completing the last leg of their journey. It has a colourful history, and was once owned by, among others, a pipe smoking Irish woman and her English husband. More info, and some photographs of the two can be found here: https://www.michaelkluckner.com/bciw6alexandralodge.html

The Lodge is currently a junk shop, which was unfortunately closed when we arrived. It's too bad, because I love junk shops and would have enjoyed having a poke around. As it turns out, it was probably for the best in terms of our timeline, which will become apparent later. The Lodge once had cabins for rent as well as beds inside the main building:
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Beside the Lodge is a curious little graveyard. It seemed to me a strange place to put a graveyard, beside a hotel, but there it is. The graves are quite old, many of unknown age due to their original wooden crosses being lost to the ravages of time and nature and replaced with metal ones bearing no inscriptions:
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The most ornate grave stone remaining in the cemetery was this one, sadly belonging to a child:
Catherine Patrick, aged 9 at the time of her death. Very sad.
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Moving on, we came to our next exploration spot, the old Hell's Gate Tunnel. When the modern tunnels were built in the 1950's and 60's, they eliminated several older, more dangerous stretches of highway which wound around the edge of the cliffs, permitting traffic to pass through the mountain safely. In the case of the Hell's Gate Tunnel, the old highway passed through an older tunnel. I'm not sure why they felt they needed a new tunnel, but if I were to guess, I'd say it was not so much because of the tunnel itself, but the stretch of highway which follows it. The old highway was likely a cliffhanger that was replaced by the Farrabee Tunnel which is separated from the HG tunnel by only a couple hundred meters of freeway now. The old tunnel is accessed from a pullout just before the new one.
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The old tunnel is no longer visible from the freeway, although it was when the new one was first built. Now it has a bit of an eerie vibe, which is cool.
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I was surprised by how much rock had fallen in from the roof of the tunnel. We decid ed it was best to whisper while passing through. Lots of rat poop on the floor too - eww.

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We passed through, checked out the other side, then came back. The proverbial light at the end of the tunnel:
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More to follow!
 
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SubeeBen

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Beautiful looking area. Thanks for the Picts & post. Looks like a great day of exploring.
 

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On the way to Boston Bar, the next stop on our tour, we popped in to visit a gorgeous little campground called Anderson Creek, which included this nifty little spot by the river under the train tressel:
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At Boston Bar, where we would cross over to North Bend and begin the off-road portion of our trip, we had to wait for the world's slowest train:
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Once the train passed, we moved over to North Bend, which was once a major CN hub with a posh hotel and several houses and other amenities.
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We saw a couple of period looking houses and a little pack of wandering dogs, but not much else. We were getting hungry, and our hunger I think prevented us from poking around more here. The forestry road we would follow all the way to Lytton began on the north side of town. We drove a little way up there, then found a nice little spot to deploy the CRV table and have lunch:
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Don't worry, we only brought along one beer each. Safety first!
It wasn't long before we were stuck into what began as a well graded dirt road but soon turned into a genuine wilderness track.

We were rewarded with spectacular views and some interesting driving, of which I sadly don't have a lot of pictures. My buddy took more, so I will add them when he gives them to me, but for now you can enjoy this view:
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It wasn't long after this photo was taken, however, that murphy decided to pay us a visit in the form of a nasty and irreparable flat:
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It was about this time I was kicking myself for not shelling out the bucks for a fifth Grabber AT2 for my spare. However, after a bit of wrangling with the shovel and the 12 ton multi-directional bottle jack, we mounted my crappy $20 non-matching junkyard spare tire, and with little fuss and a prayer for safe passage to the end of the trail, we were off. The rest of the drive revealed some surreal and amazing sights, of which I sadly didn't get a lot of pictures. I did get some video, from which I captured this view:
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The road emerged into this amazing little first nations reserve full of ruins that no doubt dated to the 1800's, including this gem:
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Soon after, we arrived safe and sound at the Lytton Ferry. The ferry is cable operated and looks like a raft stuck on two giant metal canoes. We arrived at dinner break time and had to wait till 7pm, so it was dark by the time we crossed.
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Originally, I had planned to do another leg on this trip which included the exploration of an abandoned church on a first nations ghost town north of Spences Bridge, but as it was getting late and I was running on a very questionable spare on my passenger rear, I wasn't prepared to risk another section of off-road and extend my highway miles more than absolutely necessary. We concluded our adventure with the ferry ride and saved the church and ghost town for another day. All in all, it was an outstanding adventure, albeit a short one, which turned out beautifully despite a hiccup with the spare tire. We couldn't have asked for more gorgeous scenery or more pleasant weather. It was a trip that truly highlighted the spectacular beauty of BC, as well as its colourful, often forgotten, and sadly disappearing history.

Cheers until the next adventure!
 

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Something I should mention that I forgot, part of Keefers Rd/Texas Creek Rd is marked with this big sign:
sign.jpg
There's no other way through to Lytton, and after some humming and hawing, we decided to beg forgiveness rather than ask permission and just drive through. We saw a work truck of some kind, and the guy pulled over to let us pass and didn't chew us out for driving through, so I guess it's all good. I just wanted to include this info for full disclosure in case anyone wants to drive this road - you may incur the wrath of BC Hydro for driving through this section. Or not? I don't know. lol.
 
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One thing I love about the Fraser Canyon is that there's literally ages and ages of history just piled on top of itself there. The route was used in ancient times by the First Nations via a network of ladders, bridges and catwalks, then came the wagon road, then the railroad, then the various incarnations of the highway. There's so much hidden there that you just don't see until you do a trip like we did and really poke around. I wish we had more time, but unfortunately my family situation doesn't permit it at the moment.

@JCWages If you're up in this neck of the woods, drop a line and we'll see if we can't put together an adventure! :D
 
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nomad666

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I would love to follow the cariboo trail route to the gold mines in barkerville and do it as much off the pavement as feasible that would be a nice trip and barkerville is awesome been a good 15 years since last their maybe the back road in from 150 mile heard its a nice route to take.
 
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Thanks for sharing! great pictures
 

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I would love to follow the cariboo trail route to the gold mines in barkerville and do it as much off the pavement as feasible that would be a nice trip and barkerville is awesome been a good 15 years since last their maybe the back road in from 150 mile heard its a nice route to take.
The Cariboo Wagon Road, at least the Canyon stretch, is mostly usurped by the railroad bed now, although some parts are also part of the modern highway. If memory serves, I think the old road went through Ashcroft, so that might be a good start for you.

Back in the early days, Governor Douglas was looking for an alternative to the dangerous Fraser Canyon, which resulted in the "Douglas Road" through Harrison lake by steamer to Port Douglas then through a series of roads and ferries all the way to Lilloet.

Today, much of the land portion of the Old Douglas Road survives as what was formerly called West Harrison FSR. You can actually drive all the way from Harrison Mills to Pemberton through the back country, although presently that would involve two significant water crossings. I did a trail report on that route on this sub forum as well.
 

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One thing I love about the Fraser Canyon is that there's literally ages and ages of history just piled on top of itself there. The route was used in ancient times by the First Nations via a network of ladders, bridges and catwalks, then came the wagon road, then the railroad, then the various incarnations of the highway. There's so much hidden there that you just don't see until you do a trip like we did and really poke around. I wish we had more time, but unfortunately my family situation doesn't permit it at the moment.

@JCWages If you're up in this neck of the woods, drop a line and we'll see if we can't put together an adventure! :D
Thanks for the invite! I'll get up there within the next two years. We want to do a family trip up through Idaho and Montana up into Alberta for Banff/Jasper then cut over to see as much of BC as we can. I've only visited Vancouver a few times to see a friend but never explored anything outside of town.
 

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Thanks for the invite! I'll get up there within the next two years. We want to do a family trip up through Idaho and Montana up into Alberta for Banff/Jasper then cut over to see as much of BC as we can. I've only visited Vancouver a few times to see a friend but never explored anything outside of town.
Ohh, there's some real gems, especially right in my neck of the woods. Tons of off road exploring, lakes, rivers, mountains, all within a fifteen minute or so drive from my front door. Washington state has some good stuff too, I hear. I really want to try the WABDR sometime.
 
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