93' getting very little power

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StevieB93

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Hey All,

I just replaced my 02 sensors and EGR valve and passed CA smog just fine and Cruiser was running fine for a couple of weeks. I got the EGR valve and 02 sensors from Rock Auto, just in case that caused any memories to spark. Out of no where, I am now getting very little power when I step on the gas peddle. I will be looking at this tomorrow or the next day, but wanted to check in for any suggestions.

EGR Valve from Rock Auto - More Information for WVE 4F1673

02 Sensors from Rock Auto - More Information for NTK 24044

Thanks in advance,

~ Steven
 

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Hey All,

I just replaced my 02 sensors and EGR valve and passed CA smog just fine and Cruiser was running fine for a couple of weeks. I got the EGR valve and 02 sensors from Rock Auto, just in case that caused any memories to spark. Out of no where, I am now getting very little power when I step on the gas peddle. I will be looking at this tomorrow or the next day, but wanted to check in for any suggestions.

EGR Valve from Rock Auto - More Information for WVE 4F1673

02 Sensors from Rock Auto - More Information for NTK 24044

Thanks in advance,

~ Steven
Not being a Toyota cruiser owner, I am not familiar with probable problems. However.......being a GM Silverado owner, I have a thought. If your not getting a 'check engine' dash message, it might be your throttle. I say that because my GM truck generation had issues with their 'fly by wire' control modules (throttle). This caused a dead pedal issue similar to what your describing. You could go on the Toyota forums and see if indeed this was a possible issue. Something to research before a costly repair at the dealership.
 

StevieB93

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Thank you for your reply. I do have a CEL, which I'll be checking today or tomorrow and see which code it returns.
 

smritte

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Start with the CEL. The amount of info you posted is not enough to do any real diagnostics. Unfortunately there can be any number of things causing this ranging from fuel to exhaust to internal engine. You not only need to be able to read and understand the scan data but have knowledge of how the internal workings of the engine. If not, your just guessing.
"IF" you actually have a low power complaint.
1. it may not be getting enough fuel. Pump, filter, O2 not giving the computer correct info, other sensor not giving correct info.
2. Exhaust. Cat came apart, muffler plugged
3. Not enough air. Air filter, something weird with the throttle.
4. Engine issue. Camshaft, timing belt/chain.
5. Another sensor lying to the computer. Knock sensor can cause the engine to reduce timing. The problem doesn't necessarily have to be the knock sensor but another sensor giving false readings.
6. The symptom is actually something else but it seems like low power to you. Now you have another list to sort through.

I'm not trying to sound mean or troll you. This is what I have done for a living for several decades. Anyone who tells you what's wrong without actually driving and diagnosing the vehicle is guessing and doesn't actually do this for a living.

If you want to learn, get something that reads data, a good volt meter and the factory shop manual. Pull the code, follow the chart and compare the data. Test the parts with the volt meter. Unfortunately a good number of "mechanics" don't actually know how to do this or are too lazy to do it. They just throw parts at it and when its done tell you "it needed all this". The frustrating part of working this industry is being grouped in with those guys and the "internet mechanics".

Speaking as a professional, I will never use any electronic parts that are not OE. I could horrify you for hours with tales of how this or that part caused an issue it shouldn't have been capable of or having the part fail quickly, which make you second guess your diagnostic.

EDIT: Just realized the vehicle is a 93...Scan data probably wont happen. The nice thing is it actually got easier, bad thing is, everything is now tested with a volt meter.
 
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MOAK

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Everything that smritte said! I used to overthink tiny problems with my Cruiser because I used to run with Jeeps, Fords & VW Bugs and all of em developed major problems within the first 100,000 miles. The Cruiser has been a learning experience and over the course of the last 8 years I’ve learned to diagnose properly before throwing parts at it. These Landcruisers are extraordinarily dependable vehicles as long as you replace important worn parts, especially electrical, with OEM whenever possible. If you cannot, then go with NAPA. Thing is, most problems are really simple to fix. I can’t tell you how many times I’d bang my head and go “duh”. 329,000 on mine and still going strong as ever. Interesting, the Denso 02 sensor is less expensive than the aftermarket. Stick with Denso whenever possible ..
 
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StevieB93

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Thank you for your responses folks!

Currently, since this appears to have error code 52 for knock sensor, I'll replace that once it comes in. I'll continue troubleshooting further, if this doesn't resolve the issue. :-). I'm crossing my fingers on the cats!

Thank you again!
 
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Everything that smritte said! I used to overthink tiny problems with my Cruiser because I used to run with Jeeps, Fords & VW Bugs and all of em developed major problems within the first 100,000 miles. The Cruiser has been a learning experience and over the course of the last 8 years I’ve learned to diagnose properly before throwing parts at it. These Landcruisers are extraordinarily dependable vehicles as long as you replace important worn parts, especially electrical, with OEM whenever possible. If you cannot, then go with NAPA. Thing is, most problems are really simple to fix. I can’t tell you how many times I’d bang my head and go “duh”. 329,000 on mine and still going strong as ever. Interesting, the Denso 02 sensor is less expensive than the aftermarket. Stick with Denso whenever possible ..
Thats funny because I own JEEPS, FORDS etc and NONE of them developed any problems well past 100,000 miles. Meanwhile, the toyotas crumbled into orange dust during the same period. JUST SAYIN. My 2011 JK unlimited had 295,000 on it when I sold it.

As for the OP, The knock sensor should fix your issue. The sensor is falsely detecting knock and cutting your timing to "compensate". Common on most vechiles when this sensor craps out. Should be good to go after that gets replaced.
 
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MOAK

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Thats funny because I own JEEPS, FORDS etc and NONE of them developed any problems well past 100,000 miles. Meanwhile, the toyotas crumbled into orange dust during the same period. JUST SAYIN. My 2011 JK unlimited had 295,000 on it when I sold it.

As for the OP, The knock sensor should fix your issue. The sensor is falsely detecting knock and cutting your timing to "compensate". Common on most vechiles when this sensor craps out. Should be good to go after that gets replaced.
My history goes back to vehicles from the 60s 70s and 80s. The two Jeeps I owned from the early 2000s? The diesel went from sweet to nightmare ( high pressure fuel pump failure, resulting from constant bubbles in fuel because no pusher pump existed in fuel tank, mopar cheaped out with the design) just after the warranty expired. 2004 Rubi went through universals like I change underwear. But I got really good at replacing them. I sold it at 110, 000 miles. I kept track of it, guy had to rebuild top end and manual trans at 150,000. Of all the vehicles I’ve ever owned? #1 - Landcruiser, # 2 - 1960 F-100, #3 - 2004 Jeep Rubicon. There really ought to be a law against using so much salt on the roadways. I usually park my vehicle if salt has been used. When I have to drive in it, the undercarriage gets a thorough power washing after each drive.. salt sucks
 

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My history goes back to vehicles from the 60s 70s and 80s. The two Jeeps I owned from the early 2000s? The diesel went from sweet to nightmare ( high pressure fuel pump failure, resulting from constant bubbles in fuel because no pusher pump existed in fuel tank, mopar cheaped out with the design) just after the warranty expired. 2004 Rubi went through universals like I change underwear. But I got really good at replacing them. I sold it at 110, 000 miles. I kept track of it, guy had to rebuild top end and manual trans at 150,000. Of all the vehicles I’ve ever owned? #1 - Landcruiser, # 2 - 1960 F-100, #3 - 2004 Jeep Rubicon. There really ought to be a law against using so much salt on the roadways. I usually park my vehicle if salt has been used. When I have to drive in it, the undercarriage gets a thorough power washing after each drive.. salt sucks
I agree, salt sucks. From now on, I am por 15'ing the UC of every rig I own the getting it rust checked every fall. only way to keep shit rust free. I have owned 6 jeep rigs, approx 20 ford trucks and cars, a few chevs and a crap load of honda / acura products. The key for all of them is regular maintenece They all were problem free under my ownership. The only jeep vehicle I did not like was my 2010 patriot because of the sewage which is called a CVT. Same reason I don't like my Audi A4 cabrio. CVT transmissions are trash.
 

StevieB93

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Follow up, received the knock sensor today. Went to replace it and the wires to the connector were completely torn off. When I went to press the tab to remove the connector from the knock sensor, that just fell off. *Sigh*

Now I need to find a new connector and splice, but also those cables are so short in length. I thought someone had a kit somewhere to deal with this and will try to find it. I will be looking to redo both knock sensor connections and sensors at this point.
 

StevieB93

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Start with the CEL. The amount of info you posted is not enough to do any real diagnostics. Unfortunately there can be any number of things causing this ranging from fuel to exhaust to internal engine. You not only need to be able to read and understand the scan data but have knowledge of how the internal workings of the engine. If not, your just guessing.
"IF" you actually have a low power complaint.
1. it may not be getting enough fuel. Pump, filter, O2 not giving the computer correct info, other sensor not giving correct info.
2. Exhaust. Cat came apart, muffler plugged
3. Not enough air. Air filter, something weird with the throttle.
4. Engine issue. Camshaft, timing belt/chain.
5. Another sensor lying to the computer. Knock sensor can cause the engine to reduce timing. The problem doesn't necessarily have to be the knock sensor but another sensor giving false readings.
6. The symptom is actually something else but it seems like low power to you. Now you have another list to sort through.

I'm not trying to sound mean or troll you. This is what I have done for a living for several decades. Anyone who tells you what's wrong without actually driving and diagnosing the vehicle is guessing and doesn't actually do this for a living.

If you want to learn, get something that reads data, a good volt meter and the factory shop manual. Pull the code, follow the chart and compare the data. Test the parts with the volt meter. Unfortunately a good number of "mechanics" don't actually know how to do this or are too lazy to do it. They just throw parts at it and when its done tell you "it needed all this". The frustrating part of working this industry is being grouped in with those guys and the "internet mechanics".

Speaking as a professional, I will never use any electronic parts that are not OE. I could horrify you for hours with tales of how this or that part caused an issue it shouldn't have been capable of or having the part fail quickly, which make you second guess your diagnostic.

EDIT: Just realized the vehicle is a 93...Scan data probably wont happen. The nice thing is it actually got easier, bad thing is, everything is now tested with a volt meter.
@smritte

I wanted to respond to your paragraph of information, since you took the time to respond, which I appreciate very much.

I've owned my 93 TLC for about 2.5 years and have put quite a bit money into it for maintenance items that were bound to go. Doing this has helped me learn allot, giving me passion to do it myself, not withstanding things that I am not able to do on my own.

I am an engineer by trade but was an apprentice mechanic right out of HS, having worked on cars from the age of 11. I took a different path a few years later, going into my now professional life.

My 93' TLC and items replaced so far:

* Replaced ALL coolant hoses. ALL of them, including the PHH
* Both 02 Sensors and nuts
* EGR Valve, not vacuum solenoid, but eventually will soon
* Rear main seal
* Heater valve and all hoses

The previous gentleman I purchased my TLC from, owns quite a few TLC's and took over the business owned by an older gentleman named Bud, whom lived up in Clearlake, CA. I guess he's well known. I also know Ronnie Diaz, who lives near me and can also pick his brain if needed but he's quite busy.

I love that we have a community of people here at OB, where we can get some help in a pinch. No one knows everything, but blogging searchable information for future use is a great way for everyone to learn and I'm happy to be part of that.

Thanks again to all for the replies! @Autism Family Travels @MOAK @Desert Runner
 

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My hatchback was suffering from lack of power, turns out it was the cat, I had it gutted and all available power came right back.
same thing happend with my 88 hyundai excel. cut the cat off, broomhandled the guts out of it. popped it back on and bam, all the "power" ish came back. Ha ha. I say that because when loaded with camping gear, food and two mountain bikes on the back I could get about 70kph up hill ha ha.