2019 Rav4 about ready for the trails!

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JCWages

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Pathfinder I

2,271
Grass Valley, CA, USA
First Name
Justin
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Wages
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18693

You're better off without them in the long run. Their wet traction is pretty weak too. Hope your new set work much better for you!
 
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AutomaticBluez

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,033
Tigard, Washington County, Oregon, United States
First Name
Gary
Last Name
Foubister
Member #

20886

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KJ7LUT
Hello, Friends!

I have only had my Rav for about 7 weeks now, but I have been kindof a test rat for a lot of various upgrades.

I am coming from a 2002 4Runner that was pretty kitted out for or collective hobby.

View attachment 104581

I sold it for some various plans my wife and I thought we were going to undertake (an Airstream travel trailer), but ended up getting into a new Rav4 when we decided to stick to regular life. My wife has a 2016 4Runner TRD Pro with a few mods (lift and MTs mostly), so I knew I could still play with that if I really wanted to get wild on the trails. But, I am honestly getting pretty excited to see what the new Rav will do!

[Pics forthcoming!]

So, here are some of the main things I've done:

1) ~30.5" Goodyear Duratrac tires (215/85r16) with a full-sized matching spare. 215-width is as wide as will [...kinda] fit in th stock location, and this is about the only 215-width size available in all terrain. They are quite tall, but only baaarely rub at the lower front lip of the front wheel wells at full-lock. It hasnt been enough to make me trim, but I suspect it will get worse when I take her to some trails. But, now I have 5 matching wheels and tires! Given the Rav's complete lack of sound deadening, they are indeed louder than I'd really like (these are about the most aggressive "all terrains" I have seen, and are as loud as some previous MTs Ive owned). They seem to also be the main source of fuel mileage reduction, having lost about 2 mpg or so (weight and friction). However, I am overall excited about them, and will surely love them once I get a chance to get some sound deadening in there!

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Tight squeeze of that full-sized spare! I keep my batter jumper, jumper cables, and ARB tire repair kit in the wheel.

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2) 16" Wheels. In this case, I am running 16x6.5" wheels; the narrower width is to accomodate the narrow 215 tires and still have some sidewall bulge for airing down. Wheel selection in widths less than 7" is very small, so I settled on some that I had to paint black myself, and then run hub-centric spacers to get an offset I wanted. The spacers are 38mm (1.5") rear, and 32mm (1.25" front), for total offsets of +4 and +10, respectively. I re-torqued them at 100 miles-they werent loose, but I was able to get a little grunt out of about half the stufs. I wanted 16" wheels to maximize sidewall, which aids in ride comfort (especially off road), and gives more room for airing down on the trails. I have about the same amount of tire sidewall as a factory 5th gen 4Runner.

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3) Readylift 2" / 1.5" Lift kit, plus an additional ~1.68" rear lift from 25mm spacers made for the 4th gen Rav4. Yes, 4th gen rear spacers fit! I wanted the extra rear lift to accomodate the weight of my hitch, bike rack, tools, hi-lift jack, heavier spare, and recovery gear over the rear axle. Even lifting the rear ~3.2" over stock, I am sitting at about 2.2" over stock in the rear, and about 1.75" over stock in the front (air compressor and such). I also removed the anti-sway bars, which should also help a good bit with how she behaves off road!


If I could do it over again, I'd have used the 35mm rear spacers instead of 25mm, because Id like a bit more lift and the rear driveline angles are nowhere close to reliability limits.

4) Ceramic window tint and AVS window vent shades. The vent shades allow me to keep the windows cracked while parked with no exposure to rain or prying hands. Between the mild air circulation and the tint, I can get in my vehicle at 2pm here in Florida and it isn't more than 100 degrees or so inside, instead of the 120+ you'd expect. These vent shades are stick-on, as opposed to tucking into the window channel, but I dont even notice anymore.

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5) Curt hitch + Bike Rack. The hitch went on very easily, and I was super happy with the ~$160 I paid for it. Seems to work as advertised. With the lift, it sits about 11" off the ground. Departure angle is moderately effected, especially with the rack, which is part of what inspired the lift.

I have seriously considered mounting a jerry can holder (or, well, making one) on the tire carrier. It has rated for 105lb and my bike is only 39ish (5" fat tires will do that lol), so I have some wiggle room. Of course, at 30+ mpg with a 14gal tank I still have pretty solid range, but it could be nice knowing I could stretch that to almost 600 miles if I ever really needed to.

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6) I already mentioned my tools (I have done 4 full suspension jobs with what is in my vehicle's tool bag!), and recovery gear (a pretty comprehensive kit left over from my 4Runner). I have the hi-lift and shovel mounted on the roof, and just got the traction boards mounted up there tonight as well. Not sure the boards will stay up there permanently, but we'll see.

View attachment 104587

7) And finally, my air compressor. As often as I futz with tire pressures on my car and bike, I was really missing having a hard-mounted compressor like in my previous 4Runner (pictured above). Obviously, I have a good bit less room now⁷, but even after removing the compressor from the tank, I chickened out when it came to drilling holes in the body to run power to the rear. So, I mounted it under the hood! I'll have to come up with something a bit more permanent, but for now it's secure enough. It has juuuuust enough power without the tank to use my compact impact wrench to rattle off one lug nut at a time, but its still less tedius than turning them off by hand. And, it should refill all 4 of these tires in maybe 6 minutes or so. I built a 4-way spider inflator / deflator a couple years ago to make that part pretty simple.

I am going to experiment with doubling the hose length (20 to 40ft of 1/2" air hose) to effectjvely double the "tank" size to 0.4 total gallons between the compressor and tool. I had one lug nut (of 20) that wouldnt come off until I added about 5-10 ft/lb of manual torque with a wrench on the outside of the socket with an additional wrench. So I figure a small bump in air capacity might help with those first few taps of the internal hammer. If that shows promise but isnt a huge change, I might add a small 1/4 or 1/2 gallon actual tank under the hood as well.

View attachment 104588

I'm going to take her out to some trails this weekend, so hopefully everything goes well!
Nice! This is great inspiration for my RAV4.
 
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Lindenwood

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,779
New Mexico
First Name
Jay
Last Name
M
Member #

2636

I With the hitch, bike rack (usually mounted), full-sized E-rated spare, hi-lift, tools, and recovery gear, I am looking at around 250lb over stock added to the rear axle (well, ~258lb, to be exact). At 3.1" over stock, which I ran for a while, my headlights were still pointed too high with just me in the vehicle, and got worse with anyone else. On the trails, the biggest limitating factor was always ground clearance--I have scraped both bumpers multiple times, and even high-centered on what I considered a pretty mild trail (I have the big dent in my under-body panels to prove it :p ). In a testiment to the Rav's capability, though, that high centering was the only time the traction aids couldn't keep me going.

The front probably can only handle another .5" or so before I start getting uncomfortable with the driveline angles. However, the rear seems to have lots of wiggle room, both in axle angles and rear camber adjustment. Unfortuntely, lift manufacturers insist on "leveled" lifts, which leaves zero room for actually carrying anything.

I would love love a set of rear coils about 7" longer than stock, and about 25% softer, with accompanying extended-travel shocks of course. This would net about 5.25" of lift over stock, and would sit at around 3.8" over stock with my mods and daily gear I keep in my vehicle. And, naturally, it would ride beautifully on the trails. But, until that day, I have been carefully experimenting with various combinations of rear lift spacers for my Rav.

Originally starting with the Readylift kit (+2" front / +1.5" rear) and adding more to the rear over time, I kindof over-did it with a recent combination that added ~5.8" of lift in the rear. As pictured, it is about 4.3" above stock--the bike accounts for ~0.31" of that reduction. Indeed, with the bike, it is close to ideal--a mild rake with my daily gear and a toy (the bike), so that when I pack for a trip and load up my family I am not sagging on the rear bumper.

Still, I think I might settle on about 4.8" of lift, though. It feels a little bit high without the bike, and would be kindof ridiculous if I take out all the gear.

No pics of the spacers because they are ugly. I will keep experimenting with lift heights until I get what I want (I am expecting to settle on about 4.5-4.8" of total lift height to be the ideal balance for me). Once I find it, I will probably mold a set of lower spacers out of epoxy-granite or something.

As pictured: 1.99" over stock up front, and 4.33" over stock out back. Tires are 30.5" all-terrains.

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Lindenwood

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Launch Member

Member III

2,779
New Mexico
First Name
Jay
Last Name
M
Member #

2636

Polish_20210107_072143230.jpg

Been busy! I built a custom roof rack and mounted two cases plus my recovery boards and hi-lift. One case is empty while the center one holds my recovery gear (straps, winching gear, jack stands, etc). I am planning to add a third case which should allow me to pretty much never store anything in the vehicle on camping [overlanding] trips, except the cooler, so that I don't have to relocate anything to sleep inside the vehicle.

Next mods:
1) Modding the receiver to mount everything higher off the ground to avoid catching my bike tire on rough trails
2) Some variation of aftermarket coil springs (Maybe Eibachs, or perhaps full custom).
3) Likely a home-made awning system.
4) Some beefier tires (likely Toyo Open Country 245/75R16, which is approachinh 31").
 

Lindenwood

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,779
New Mexico
First Name
Jay
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M
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Hitch and bike rack modifications complete! Now the bottom of my bike tire is about 18" off the ground rather than ~8" like before. Entailed cutting and rewrlding part of the receiver, and drilling and welding on the bike rack.

Polish_20210108_173152401.jpg
 

Lindenwood

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,779
New Mexico
First Name
Jay
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M
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2636

Made a few updates lately.

1) Added a 3rd case on the roof rack.

2) Redid the custom rear lift. Much better now!
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3) Almost done with my fuel can carrier.
Polish_20210212_171524843.jpg

Next up: custom shocks on all four corners (and coils up front) to net a ~75-100% increase in "Ramp Test" capacity.
 

Anazlu

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Texas 77845, United States
First Name
Paul
Last Name
Horton
Member #

28249

So I have a quesiton. how did you get the front tow points? were you just lucky and got a Japanese Rav4? because none of the Canada Made Rav4s (my Rav is a Canadian made) have the covers in the bumper for those recovery eyelets.
 

2dub

Rank II

Enthusiast III

473
Moyock, NC
First Name
Warren
Last Name
Workman
Nice build and great info. I'm actually hitting the road this summer with my son and I decided to take my wife's Rav4 vs the truck for mileage and we won't need true 4WD for what we have planned. But I'm POSITIVE she won't let me mod it up. I can hear her eyes roll, and her BP go up when I talk about my mods. One of us (me) wouldn't survive if I wanted to start on the Rav4.
 

Lindenwood

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,779
New Mexico
First Name
Jay
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M
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2636

Yes,
So I have a quesiton. how did you get the front tow points? were you just lucky and got a Japanese Rav4? because none of the Canada Made Rav4s (my Rav is a Canadian made) have the covers in the bumper for those recovery eyelets.
Yes, I have a Japanese model, though as mentioned the hooks are custom. At this point, though, while I hate messing with body panels (I. E. The bumper cover), I would have probably broken out the welder by now and made a full front nose piece had I not had the piece.
 
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Anazlu

Rank III
Member

Enthusiast III

646
Texas 77845, United States
First Name
Paul
Last Name
Horton
Member #

28249

Yes,
So I have a quesiton. how did you get the front tow points? were you just lucky and got a Japanese Rav4? because none of the Canada Made Rav4s (my Rav is a Canadian made) have the covers in the bumper for those recovery eyelets.
Yes, I have a Japanese model, though as mentioned the hooks are custom. At this point, though, while I hate messing with body panels (I. E. The bumper cover), I would have probably broken out the welder by now and made a full front nose piece had I not had the piece.
Well fortunately there is a aftermarket bumper for the Rav4 now that comes with recovery points for those of us not lucky enough to have that stock
 

Lindenwood

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,779
New Mexico
First Name
Jay
Last Name
M
Member #

2636

Working on custom struts and shocks! Shooting for 8-9" travel up front and 9-11" of total travel in the rear.

Polish_20210310_060522940.png

Also digging in to adding independent rheostatic controls to each side's e-brake to act as a poor-man's "locker" to help get unstuck.
 
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