2004 WJ Laredo

[adventure_is_necessary]

For recovery, especially if you travel solo, a winch is a must IMHO. I'm doing a hidden winch mount with my stock bumper on my WJ, I'll let you know how it all goes.

As for first aid, I really need to step-up my supplies and knowledge there. Any good resources you suggest?

-TJ

I've considered a hidden winch but I'm concerned with it being interfered by my bull bar. If I can find a decent winch bumper for cheap, I might go that route, but honestly I rarely travel alone. My AR trip was the only time I've gone alone to an area like that and I was thankful I had traction boards as well as a handheld HAM in the event something did happen. But I also had cell service. That might be an anomaly, but it was reassuring. Regardless, my next rig WILL have a winch on it.

As for first aid, I started out with a simple kit I found in an outdoors store. It was cheap but needed. I added some things to it I thought might be helpful, like more nitrile gloves, hand sanitizer, and a mylar blanket. Then I purchases a better one that was more complete and held more. I combined the two and I've added in some more meds and tourniquets. Best resources I've found were from FieldCraft Survival and the Overland Bound First Aid videos. @El Solis is a super cool and nice guy. He has been helpful outside of all the videos when it comes to building out a first aid kit. I know mine still is lacking, but I keep adding things here and there that make me feel better about its capabilities.

 

[KPMetrics]

So I've been fighting with mine to convince it that the rear driver side door isn't open...

Replaced the latch in that door, replace the wiring harness in that door.

Nothing helped. Found out that it may actually be the driver's door itself that's causing the error.

Checked the wires where the go from the body to the door and couldn't see any that were obviously busted.

Decided to just cut them all at the connector, splice on known good wire, and reconnect it well inside the body side.

Built the connector end of it today with soldered and heat-shrink connections. Will do the body side of the splice this weekend.

Perhaps this will solve it...

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

So I've been fighting with mine to convince it that the rear driver side door isn't open...

Replaced the latch in that door, replace the wiring harness in that door.

Nothing helped. Found out that it may actually be the driver's door itself that's causing the error.

Checked the wires where the go from the body to the door and couldn't see any that were obviously busted.

Decided to just cut them all at the connector, splice on known good wire, and reconnect it well inside the body side.

Built the connector end of it today with soldered and heat-shrink connections. Will do the body side of the splice this weekend.

Perhaps this will solve it...

let's hope!

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

Not much going on with the rig lately. I have been busy with work and the weather hasn't cooperated much for me to work on the rig. This past weekend I began working on the platform design 2.0. I only had about an hour to spare so I ran the saw and got everything together. Just need to shoot some paint on it and get some additional hardware, but it's already worth the trouble since it is more usable now. Next on the list is to slap some new lower shock bushings in the front shocks. I'm almost 100% positive that's where my clunk noise came from as I grabbed the front shocks and moved them laterally, hearing the same noise. I know all the nuts/bolts are tight, so that is not the issue. I have read about the bar pin causing a clunking noise, so I figured it was cheaper to replace the bushings with Energy Suspension bushings and maybe new bar pins. Bar pin eliminators might fix my issue, but they're a little pricier. While the ball joints were needed, that repair only helped on the squirrel feeling on washboard roads. So we will get that going. Other than that, I plan on replacing all the remaining u-joints on both driveshafts at some point. Almost wishing I had replaced all of them in the front when I had it out for the pinion side u-joint replacement.

 

[JimBill]

So I've been fighting with mine to convince it that the rear driver side door isn't open...

Sometimes the body computer gets confused and needs a reboot. No cost, simply disconnect the negative battery terminal for 5 or 10 minutes and reconnect. Worth a shot.
Also, often missed is the front door latch has an internal adjustment. Sometimes a quarter turn will get it back in range. (but this would be more for phantom front door open alarms). If you don't find where, I'll get a pic when I am reunited with my WJ in a day or so.
Lastly, where you started is the number one mechanical area for any door related electrical issues... in the harness between the door and body.

Good luck! James

 

[KPMetrics]

I know it's not a bcm reboot issue. Had the battery disconnected for over a month...

What it really could be is the G301 ground by the driver's seat. I've just remembered that when this issue popped up, I'd just been standing on the door sill right by that ground taking my roof bars off...

 

[KPMetrics]

Finished the body side splice today. Still thinks the back door is open. Man this sucks.

 

[Roebe1]

Finished the body side splice today. Still thinks the back door is open. Man this sucks.

You check the harness on the driver door? That's where all the action is for that overhead info center that says you got a door open. You may have fixing the power supply issue but not the short that is throwing that error. Open that hoe up and take a good look at all 20 wires in there. You may have been leaning on your door more than you thought and slightly cut into what is usually no less than a 16 yr old wiring harness. If not any of that, then I'd replace the harness itself.

 

[KPMetrics]

Harness replaced in the doors with new units. Completely rebuilt the portion that goes through the door with all new wire.

Going to test the pin out on the C-1 connector in the fuse block today. My suspicion is now the #10 pin that connects to the rear door ajar sensor on that side rear door. My guess is that wire has a short somewhere between the panel and the door.

Going to do the vampire draw test on it and if it's the one I'll either just cut that wire (I know when my door is open) or if I'm feeling sassy I'll splice in a new wire and run it back to the door.

 

[Roebe1]

Harness replaced in the doors with new units. Completely rebuilt the portion that goes through the door with all new wire.

Going to test the pin out on the C-1 connector in the fuse block today. My suspicion is now the #10 pin that connects to the rear door ajar sensor on that side rear door. My guess is that wire has a short somewhere between the panel and the door.

Going to do the vampire draw test on it and if it's the one I'll either just cut that wire (I know when my door is open) or if I'm feeling sassy I'll splice in a new wire and run it back to the door.

I was about suggest the pin method but that shit is tedious and tough to diagnose stuff without proper voltage/impedance chart. I bet you can find one a www.somarmotor.com

 

[KPMetrics]

It's what I have left.

I've eliminated everything I can think of except a short on the sensor wire somewhere in the body of the rig between the door and the fuse panel.

I know I've got some parasitic draw going on so here's what I'm thinking.

Disconnect the C1 and verify that the parasitic draw drops. That'll confirm it's somewhere in there.

Then connect each pin through my meter and watch for the draw to show back up. That'll confirm the wire.

I already know that I'm getting a door ajar error, so I have a good idea what pin it should be.

Now I've just got to find my alligator clip jumper wires for my meter...

Will report back with what this turns up.

 

[Roebe1]

It's what I have left.

I've eliminated everything I can think of except a short on the sensor wire somewhere in the body of the rig between the door and the fuse panel.

I know I've got some parasitic draw going on so here's what I'm thinking.

Disconnect the C1 and verify that the parasitic draw drops. That'll confirm it's somewhere in there.

Then connect each pin through my meter and watch for the draw to show back up. That'll confirm the wire.

I already know that I'm getting a door ajar error, so I have a good idea what pin it should be.

Now I've just got to find my alligator clip jumper wires for my meter...

Will report back with what this turns up.

Try the pin method. You slide a push pin, the type with a colored head, and slide it in to the back of the black harness connection where the wire enters. Thatll give you something solid to clip to and you can leave the colored pin in as a color coded marker. Usually gets the best read for a volt since it's right where the connect is made.

 

[KPMetrics]

Found it, fixed it.

Vampire (parasitic) draw test confirmed it was pin 10 in C1 to the rear door ajar sensor.

No longer getting notification in the overhead and the lights go out when the door is shut.

 

[Roebe1]

Found it, fixed it.

Vampire (parasitic) draw test confirmed it was pin 10 in C1 to the rear door ajar sensor.

No longer getting notification in the overhead and the lights go out when the door is shut.

Heck yea, good job man. I'll remember that trick for when it happens again to me, cause I'm sure it will, it bein a jeep and all..

 

[tjZ06]

Found it, fixed it.

Vampire (parasitic) draw test confirmed it was pin 10 in C1 to the rear door ajar sensor.

No longer getting notification in the overhead and the lights go out when the door is shut.

Congrats - I know that one was driving you nuts.

-TJ

 

[adventure_is_necessary]

Given the current crisis in the world and the stay at home order in my state, I’m working from home. Which means more time to wrench on the rigs. The WJ needs a couple things but not too much, at least in the way of what I can tackle without excessive in-store experiences. So first I will tackle new front lower shock bushings from Energy Suspension and a bar pin eliminator kit from JKS. Next I think I will tackle vacuuming and cleaning out the interior. Third, I need to rewire my CB setup as I am getting some interference. Fourth, I will finish the platform version 2. I previously modified part of it but never got around to finishing it, painting it, and setting up the retention system. More to come I’m sure on the WJ. Go check out my 1999 UZJ100 build if you’d like.