Dude! That's one sick ass kit!, and one hell of a price tag for just front suspension!. Definitely over built for Overlanding, but that's not a bad thing. Its a slippery slope. You purchase a lift kit, then you need bigger tires/wheels, then you need to change out gearing. Before you know it, you have $10,000 into a truck thats only worth $6,000.
Slippery slope indeed, but I noticed that most of the lifts for your body style truck are drop bracket with lift spindles which often reduce your actual ground clearance over stock for the same tire size and are more often then not inteded to achieve a look over actual performance increases.
Influencer II
Thanks Ranger1992! IlIm still slowly working on her, not sure if I'll ever been finished, but that's half the fun. ,
Yeah. That's kind of my dilemma. That and cost for the super high end kits. [emoji19]
I have found that if one of my vehicles seems finished - it is because I have not looked at it for awhile!
I lost track of your thread for awhile. Glad I found it again. You seem pretty adept at installing lights. Any tips or helpful guides? I really want to install some when the weather warms up. I've done a lot of researching but I still don't feel terribly confident. Also, any more pictures and tips on installing you little extra switch panel? I've had that idea for a long time but never had a good starting point as to what to use for the panel itself. My Grand Cherokee doesn't have a lot of space for switches either.Thanks man! Yeah. These trucks seem to be lacking good real estate to mount switches! I also ended up installing a switch panel for a Jeep under my heater control switches as well
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While I don't disagree that is a good option and cheaper then the Vegas Fab kit because it is leaf sprung you will be giving up more road manners then with the longer travel ifs. To keep similar road manners as the ifs with an sas truck you need to link it which requires a lot more figuring and fabrication. The rear is much cheaper and easier to figure out, just use a nice long flat spring like chevy 63's with a long shackle and you will get a nice riding flexy suspension that can easily be adjusted to carry lots of weight, as they come in 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton weight ratings.
You would have to do some fab work, which is no small thing, but you would also gain a tremendous amount of strength with a SAS front end. I'm sure something you're well aware of. It would be a worthwhile upgrade to me but I don't know what the fabrication complications would entail.
Haha thats basically what I said apart from where you want to compromise with road handling both are good options. But if I was to SAS over the LT it would be 3 linked over leaf sprung, again more figuring and fabrication to get it correct over the "bolt on" leaf sprung SAS that will be difficult to get to ride correctly (an inherent issue with fully leaf sprung vehicles).
Oops! I'm sorry I thought I was quoting OP on that post. My bad. Have you done anything like this before on a rig? I haven't myself but I like "helping" with my crappy opinion hahaha.
No worries I'm about half way through installing a 3 link front suspension on my 89 4Runner, it was leaf sprung when I purchased it
I hear ya! In fact I'm gonna need to rip into my wiring again here real soon. I have a few other light Ideas that I'm gonna play around with, and I also need to install my new remote start/alarm system. So, I'll be rerouting and cleaning up some of my previously installed wiring and making some improvements while I'm all up in there. I'm definitely no expert in vehicle lighting or installing aftermarket goodies. But my only advice is, use relays on the higher output Light Bars, and fogs. Otherwise you will burn up your switches eventually. When I run my wires, I keep them all wrapped together in poly lume and then electrical tape sections of the lume closed so that none of the wires have a chance to stick out and rub on anything sharp causing shorts. I also went with a separate fuse box that I mounted down below my dash, that is easily accessible in case something gets torn off my vehicle during my off-road shenanigans.
Thank you for the tips! So, you power the extra fuse box and then run the relays off the fuse box? Can you use a fuse box like that to run a winch and wire in aux power ports? Could you run a CB off of it as well? I have big plans haha.I hear ya! In fact I'm gonna need to rip into my wiring again here real soon. I have a few other light Ideas that I'm gonna play around with, and I also need to install my new remote start/alarm system. So, I'll be rerouting and cleaning up some of my previously installed wiring and making some improvements while I'm all up in there. I'm definitely no expert in vehicle lighting or installing aftermarket goodies. But my only advice is, use relays on the higher output Light Bars, and fogs. Otherwise you will burn up your switches eventually. When I run my wires, I keep them all wrapped together in poly lume and then electrical tape sections of the lume closed so that none of the wires have a chance to stick out and rub on anything sharp causing shorts. I also went with a separate fuse box that I mounted down below my dash, that is easily accessible in case something gets torn off my vehicle during my off-road shenanigans.
I also used RV plugs with polyurethane sealant for my roof mounted lights. I didn't want wires being torn out or through my roof if they get snagged on some tree limbs. Instead they just unplug. There are other options as well, but I felt it was the safest method.
I'll take some photos of my wiring when I crack back into it. Oh!! It's also a good idea to use a drill to twist all of your wire together. Least the stuff that's all going to the same general location makes for a much cleaner install. Car alarm guys use this method alot.basically like this.
For the fuse block, I ended up going with this.
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