Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
How hard is it to pull the dash assembly out... I want to get to the under side of the dash to mount some coms gear.
1984 Ford Bronco Project
- Thread starter Dakota Houligans
- Start date
I have done the 1980-86 and the 1992-96 ones. And they aren't as bad as it looks. Just remember to unhook the cable for the shift position on the steering column before you drop or remove it. Also the cable for hvac temp door. It's time consuming but not to difficult.
Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
Well shift indicator wire is broken, so no problem there, and removing the HVAC controls are hard either... wish I had time to pull it all apart right now... got a day trip planned for tomorrow.
Started doing a little body work. The drivers rocker panel and door are a little dinged up and pushed in so I was debating between just cutting it out and replacing it with a leftover patch panel I've had for awhile. But, I decided to try and straighten it out first. Figured it is solid and if I failed I can still cut the old one out and weld in the replacement.
I started using a 2x4 and a hammer with minimal success.
Then I remembered I have some J and U shaped attachments for my slide hammer. I also picked up a cheapish set of body hammers and dollies. The slide hammer made pretty quick work at pulling the rocker back into place. It still needs more fine tuning. But I think I'll see how well I can get the door shape back before I work the rocker anymore.
Managed to pull the rocker a good distance back out.
I started using a 2x4 and a hammer with minimal success.
Then I remembered I have some J and U shaped attachments for my slide hammer. I also picked up a cheapish set of body hammers and dollies. The slide hammer made pretty quick work at pulling the rocker back into place. It still needs more fine tuning. But I think I'll see how well I can get the door shape back before I work the rocker anymore.
Managed to pull the rocker a good distance back out.
Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
That's what I did last time too. Just wanted to try straightening it out since it was not rusty. Wasn't too time consuming.
A little pallet of goodies showed up for me at work. Too bad I'm not quite ready to put them in yet.
Started on some of the body work on the upper wheel well.
Old rusty metal removed.
New piece clamped in place and ready for cutting and welding.
Cut and tacked.
Welded in.
Cleaned up again.
Now for some primer and filler. Then sand and repeat a few times.
Old rusty metal removed.
New piece clamped in place and ready for cutting and welding.
Cut and tacked.
Welded in.
Cleaned up again.
Now for some primer and filler. Then sand and repeat a few times.
Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
I have goodies stashed all over inside my “Adventure Machine” need a pair of drive shafts then I will be ready to install mine.
Member III
- 2,827
- First Name
- Jim
- Last Name
- covey sr
- Member #
16986
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
Excellent patch job. What kind of welder did you use. Dosent show any warpage at this point.
It's a miller 211 MIG if I remember correctly. Someday I'd like to get a tig welder but I keep spending money on other things... I did get a little bit of warpage at the one corner. Which gave me a chance to practice with some hammer and dolly work.
Drivers side ready for some more primer.
I managed to get the passengers side sanded down. I have repairs to make to the wheel well, a small spot behind the door, and the rest of the bolt holes for the original tire carrier.
Patch panned trimmed close to fitting.
Final fitted and welded in.
Then it was time for the bolt holes.
One patch made to fit.
And I managed a pretty good fit on the other as well.
After welding and grinding. Turned out pretty good.
After 2 coats of epoxy primer.
Now for the fun part of some filler and lots of sanding.
I managed to get the passengers side sanded down. I have repairs to make to the wheel well, a small spot behind the door, and the rest of the bolt holes for the original tire carrier.
Patch panned trimmed close to fitting.
Final fitted and welded in.
Then it was time for the bolt holes.
One patch made to fit.
And I managed a pretty good fit on the other as well.
After welding and grinding. Turned out pretty good.
After 2 coats of epoxy primer.
Now for the fun part of some filler and lots of sanding.
While I was painting the quarter panels I decided to get some primer and paint on a few of the new rear suspension parts.
Some mildly more durable rear spring shackles.
A little paint on the new upper shock mounts for the rear.
With a little luck I'll be spending some quality time with a sanding block tomorrow.
Some mildly more durable rear spring shackles.
A little paint on the new upper shock mounts for the rear.
With a little luck I'll be spending some quality time with a sanding block tomorrow.
A skim coat of filler on the passenger side quarter all sanded.
Then some more epoxy. It's starting to look pretty good.
Then a few coats of High Build primer.
And more sanding. Went all the way to 400 grit.
Time for 2 coats of epoxy and on to the next. Still laughing at myself for putting this much into something that I'll probably scratch all up within 2 years.
Then some more epoxy. It's starting to look pretty good.
Then a few coats of High Build primer.
And more sanding. Went all the way to 400 grit.
Time for 2 coats of epoxy and on to the next. Still laughing at myself for putting this much into something that I'll probably scratch all up within 2 years.
Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
Looking good... the amount of work and detail you are putting in is awesome... gives me inspiration to buy a welder and an air compressor and start working on my body.
Now if only I could find the motivation to install my ZF5, and start figuring out where my coolant is going.
Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
Member III
- 2,827
- First Name
- Jim
- Last Name
- covey sr
- Member #
16986
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
Always enjoy seeing your work. That rear fender repair was really good. Amazing that your not getting any warpage .
Thanks. Careful buying a welder and big compressor that leads to building random things and the open space in your garage shrinking.
The spring shackles are from Solo Motorsports.
Thanks. It's turned out pretty good so far. Welding thin sheet metal is a slow painful process.
Primer on the rear quarters. Turned out pretty good. Smooth and straight.
Cutting the rust out from the lower door skin. Had to patch some of the inside as well.
Had to straighten the inner parts as well.
Primer on the inside of the door.
I flanged the upper part and decided to try panel bond on it instead of welding. Unfortunately I couldn't clamp the upper so I put some small sheet metal screws to hold it. We'll see if it is less or more work than welding. I do like that all the edges are sealed.
Now on to the passenger side.
Cutting the rust out from the lower door skin. Had to patch some of the inside as well.
Had to straighten the inner parts as well.
Primer on the inside of the door.
I flanged the upper part and decided to try panel bond on it instead of welding. Unfortunately I couldn't clamp the upper so I put some small sheet metal screws to hold it. We'll see if it is less or more work than welding. I do like that all the edges are sealed.
Now on to the passenger side.
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