Off-Road Ranger I
Thanks, it had been a lot of work, a lot of brainstorming, and a lot of planning. And to be honest a lot of fun!
Off-Road Ranger I
- 2,932
- First Name
- Dan
- Last Name
- Rich
- Member #
-
0582
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- K6DHR
A, this is really taking shape, you do nice work! Love the CAD! (Cardboard Aided Design) that's my favorite tool.
Dan.
Dan.
Off-Road Ranger I
Hey Aaron, followed you over here from the FB group to watch your build progress.
Couple of things, are you going to see that brush guard? I am going to have a front bumper built but it's a bit off. And, do you have the specs for that roof rack written down, and did it bolt onto the OEM holes?
Thanks man, love what you're doing.
Couple of things, are you going to see that brush guard? I am going to have a front bumper built but it's a bit off. And, do you have the specs for that roof rack written down, and did it bolt onto the OEM holes?
Thanks man, love what you're doing.
I'm thinking about a sequoia for the room ,but it'll be my daily driver. So I'm thinking stay with a tundra but go newer (2nd gen). Currently have a gen 1 tundra extended cab. Just dont know what to do at the moment. So I'll just keep what I got ,but be a minimalist about it. Lol
Off-Road Ranger I
Hey man, glad you followed me over here.. I can send you the measurements for the rack.. as for the brush guard, got a guy looking at it now, but don't know if he's going to buy it, he's trying to fit it to his 03 tundra, should know tomorrow. Are you in Utah? Pm me on FB and I'll send you the rest of the photos and measurements for the rack.
Off-Road Ranger I
Can't go wrong with a Gen 2 Tundra.. had an 07 Crewmax 5.7l for about 2 yrs and I'd get another in a heartbeat.. my F-150 won't die.. so I can't justify it yet..lol let me know if there is anything I can help with, I love the Sequoia as well, I can give you input on either. Thanks for following.. new stuff coming soon!
Off-Road Ranger I
Electrical
Ok, so I finished up my electrical setup over the weekend (minus some new lights I plan for the new bumper) but I've had a few guys ask me about things, so here is the update and the technical stuff.
I mentioned earlier in the build that I have 2x 18ah AGM batteries back in my storage system, I'll talk a little more about that here, also, the setup I have for the secondary battery in the engine compartment, and how all the systems work together.
Power sources:
1- Primary Battery - Stock battery location - Standard Group 27 Vehicle battery.. it starts the Rig and has never left me stranded.. so for now, I'll just keep using it.
2- Secondary Battery - Mounted between the ABS controller and air filter box over the passenger wheel with custom mounting plate I had to fabricate. Currently I installed a group 65 Duralast Gold with 150 min reserve power and 850 CCA.. why do you ask? I had one in the garage that needed a home. I built the battery tray to handle a group 27 or group 31 for when I get around to purchasing a Deep Cycle AGM for that position.
3- 2x 18ah AGM wired in parallel - these batteries are used to power the water sprayer, overhead lights I wired in the rear hatch, usb chargers and a 12v socket for a fridge or heated blanket.
The 2 batteries in the engine compartment are wired with an automatic battery isolation solenoid .. it connects the battery when the detected voltage output is over 13.6 volts, and automatically disconnects the batteries from each other when the voltage drops below 12.8 volts. The batteries are connected to the solenoid with 2ga 100% copper battery cables and the aux battery has a 200amp in line fuse. Each battery is grounded to the Chassis independently. The isolation solenoid has a manual switch to connect the batteries in an emergency situation IE: to jump the main battery in case of failure or in case the alternator fails and extra power is needed.
From the AUX battery I ran a 8ga wire to my Busbar that serves as the common power supply to all of my aux lights (they are wired through a relay box mounted by the brake booster) and other AUX equipment. From this busbar I have a 10ga fused wire that runs into the center console for "always live" plugs and devices like CB radio, USB chargers for navigation equipment..etc.
From the Center console busbar I have a 12ga fused wire that runs to a relay and switch that can be turned on to charge the 36ah AGM setup in the rear storage compartment. It is controlled manually so the load can be isolated to only the AGM supply, or shared with the AUX battery if needed. I tend let the storage batteries charge whenever the motor is running unless I am running high draw equipment like a winch, in which case, I want to reserve the storage batteries for their purpose.. or potential use as emergency power.
Wanda has a 130+ amp Alternator that doesn't have any issues keeping things charged or running AUX lights.. etc. I have a digital meter for each battery to monitor voltages that will be installed in my new center console switch panel.
Hope this information is useful to those that are asking, it is a good solution for me and keeps me powered up.
Ok, so I finished up my electrical setup over the weekend (minus some new lights I plan for the new bumper) but I've had a few guys ask me about things, so here is the update and the technical stuff.
I mentioned earlier in the build that I have 2x 18ah AGM batteries back in my storage system, I'll talk a little more about that here, also, the setup I have for the secondary battery in the engine compartment, and how all the systems work together.
Power sources:
1- Primary Battery - Stock battery location - Standard Group 27 Vehicle battery.. it starts the Rig and has never left me stranded.. so for now, I'll just keep using it.
2- Secondary Battery - Mounted between the ABS controller and air filter box over the passenger wheel with custom mounting plate I had to fabricate. Currently I installed a group 65 Duralast Gold with 150 min reserve power and 850 CCA.. why do you ask? I had one in the garage that needed a home. I built the battery tray to handle a group 27 or group 31 for when I get around to purchasing a Deep Cycle AGM for that position.
3- 2x 18ah AGM wired in parallel - these batteries are used to power the water sprayer, overhead lights I wired in the rear hatch, usb chargers and a 12v socket for a fridge or heated blanket.
The 2 batteries in the engine compartment are wired with an automatic battery isolation solenoid .. it connects the battery when the detected voltage output is over 13.6 volts, and automatically disconnects the batteries from each other when the voltage drops below 12.8 volts. The batteries are connected to the solenoid with 2ga 100% copper battery cables and the aux battery has a 200amp in line fuse. Each battery is grounded to the Chassis independently. The isolation solenoid has a manual switch to connect the batteries in an emergency situation IE: to jump the main battery in case of failure or in case the alternator fails and extra power is needed.
From the AUX battery I ran a 8ga wire to my Busbar that serves as the common power supply to all of my aux lights (they are wired through a relay box mounted by the brake booster) and other AUX equipment. From this busbar I have a 10ga fused wire that runs into the center console for "always live" plugs and devices like CB radio, USB chargers for navigation equipment..etc.
From the Center console busbar I have a 12ga fused wire that runs to a relay and switch that can be turned on to charge the 36ah AGM setup in the rear storage compartment. It is controlled manually so the load can be isolated to only the AGM supply, or shared with the AUX battery if needed. I tend let the storage batteries charge whenever the motor is running unless I am running high draw equipment like a winch, in which case, I want to reserve the storage batteries for their purpose.. or potential use as emergency power.
Wanda has a 130+ amp Alternator that doesn't have any issues keeping things charged or running AUX lights.. etc. I have a digital meter for each battery to monitor voltages that will be installed in my new center console switch panel.
Hope this information is useful to those that are asking, it is a good solution for me and keeps me powered up.
Traveler I
This picture is from this weekend with the Southeast OB group at Withlacoochee State Forest-Citrus Unit. WITH my sway bars intact. My driver side rear tire is off the ground! Sway bars are coming off before our next outing in two weeks.
Attachments
Off-Road Ranger I
Pretty sweet man, you'll be surprised at the performance difference the sway bars cause. Keep me updated! I'd love to hear how things turn out.
Member III
Off-Road Ranger I
Miller 140 most of the time, for the big stuff my buddy has a fabrication shop, and I go use his Miller 220s when needed.
Off-Road Ranger I
Feels like I haven't updated the thread here in forever.. but I finally have something to share. Spent the last week or so cutting, welding and grinding on this bad boy.. All of the plate is 3/16" still that I bent on a press brake after cutting the design out on a CNC Plasma cutter. Tube is 2" .125 Steel. It is attached to the frame via a new cross member I had to weld between the frame rails along with 2 mounting points I added to the frame, for a total of 6 grade 8 bolt-in points. Nuts are welded to plates that where then welded to the inside of the frame. All in all.. its pretty beefy. I sprayed it with primer so I have some front end protection over the weekend on some trails. Next week I'll take it back off and weld on the light mounting tabs and possibly a hoop up front. 
Off-Road Ranger I
Off-Road Ranger I
ITS ON!!
Got a chance to test the new front bumper out Saturday.. the approach angle is SOOO much better! It is tough, fairly light (around 50-55lbs) and will serve my purpose quite well. I also mounted some 30 watt LED 5" Spot lights and a hoop, which I think aesthetics called for...
On Monday the winch arrived and I found an hour to get it bolted on and hooked up. Decided on the X-Bull 13k (I pull the camper quite a bit and wanted a little extra umph if needed) but didn't' want to commit to a $900+ winch because I'm not sure what features I do and don't want. The x-bull has really good reviews, a decent warranty, and is designed by Aussies.. made in China. Waterproof, and comes with nice Neoprene cover to keep UV and Rain exposure to a minimum.
I didn't like the Clevis hook just hanging around and want to limit rope exposure as I decided to go with a synthetic line.. so I welded a nice little spot to hook to.
Now I'll just wait for the trim pieces that go around the lights to come in and a chance to use the winch.. after I re-spool it under a load.... of course!
Got a chance to test the new front bumper out Saturday.. the approach angle is SOOO much better! It is tough, fairly light (around 50-55lbs) and will serve my purpose quite well. I also mounted some 30 watt LED 5" Spot lights and a hoop, which I think aesthetics called for...
On Monday the winch arrived and I found an hour to get it bolted on and hooked up. Decided on the X-Bull 13k (I pull the camper quite a bit and wanted a little extra umph if needed) but didn't' want to commit to a $900+ winch because I'm not sure what features I do and don't want. The x-bull has really good reviews, a decent warranty, and is designed by Aussies.. made in China. Waterproof, and comes with nice Neoprene cover to keep UV and Rain exposure to a minimum.
I didn't like the Clevis hook just hanging around and want to limit rope exposure as I decided to go with a synthetic line.. so I welded a nice little spot to hook to.
Now I'll just wait for the trim pieces that go around the lights to come in and a chance to use the winch.. after I re-spool it under a load.... of course!
That looks great. You do some amazing work! Thanks for sharing with us
Killer bumper mate! I love seeing the ones people make themselves uniquely for their build [emoji106]
