I always find these kind of generalizations silly.
These things deal with pretty rough terrain... and are IFS/IRS and seem to do okay.
Oh, is it? Whats your problem with the '11+ GM 3/4-1 ton IFS? No, I wouldn't pick it to build a rock crawler or race baja... but it turns out that's not...
Do you have any actual data, like wall thickness specs to back up some of your claims?
I agree, both RAM (or Dodge, if old enough) and Ford solid axle trucks actually have a lot of front end part wear. It's funny, the RAM and Ford guys like to make fun of the IFS GM trucks for "weak front...
Obviously you hear the air sucking through the IAC port on the TB more than anything else... but trust me in person it was a beautiful sound. There was a lot left to do after yesterday, even though it seemed so close. We weren't able to start working on it until about 6 PM tonight because...
Obviously you hear the air sucking through the IAC ports on the TB... but trust me in person it was a beautiful sound. No check engine light after we remembered to plug the stock fan control solenoid back in and cleared that code (longer story about e-fan swap and the entire story in my saga...
Oh man, so many thoughts on this I don't even know where to start. Give my saga on my WJ a skim: 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Build I've done lots myself, and sometimes had it drag projects out and cost nearly as much by the time I buy tools etc. (but I always like adding tools to the...
True, but you can't get a RCSB in any of the big-3 3/4 tons. A RCLB would leave him lots of options for a camper shell, bit RTT on a rack, etc. that would make Overlanding really nice though. Still, I agree with you, but I'd add to go with a Ford or RAM 3/4 ton for the solid front axle. I'm a...
Skid plates are worth their weight in gold. It doesn't matter how big and bad your rig is, eventually you'll find that obstacle that requires some belly-dragging, having good armor so you can do it with confidence (and not break or get hung-up) is key.
-TJ
Some good progress tonight. Didn't get started until 4 or 5 and like always with motor swaps it fought us going in. Bellhousing is all secured. Torque converter bolts torqued. Motor mounts done.
Didn't take a pic, but got the new '08 manifold all dressed out including the throttle body...
Where to begin... as others have said there are a zillion YT reviews on RTTs. Watch lots of them, especially the soft vs. hardshell comparisons then aggregate all the different thoughts to get a general idea what works well for what situations.
If you're doing a longer trip, but moving often...
This, this right here! I always think of something I needed, or at least would have been nice to have mid-trip, then I never write it down and forget by the end of the trip.
-TJ
Looks like we're neighbors, I'm up in Lincoln!
RoamWithJon - looks like that was a great trail to cut your teeth on and figure out what the 'trek can do.
-TJ
Thanks. 35"s are really not needed for what I want to do with the Jeep... and like you said having 35"s and the proper running gear will make apt to try things beyond "just overlanding." That said, I have a few friends running 35"s on properly built D30s without issue, they just treat them...
It'll be yours if you want it, no cost. As you probably saw in my thread, if you go with the spacer keep an eye on the bolts, I had mine loosen up and eventually shear. Looking forward to what you do with the D44A - I'm still so on the fence on building the D30/44A vs. the expense of building...
Good update, and a great point about the BB and stock bushings in general once you actually start using these things. I intend to long-arm convert the rear of mine ASAP. The front is LA and everything up front is fresh (including the over-the-knuckle steering stuff). However, the rear is just...
Agree 100% - people don't realize how Yuge vehicles have gotten. That's what I love about my '03 "Grand" Cherokee (aka WJ). Compared to modern stuff, it's actually not all that grand...
181.6" Length
72.6" Width
70.3" Height (all measurements stock of course)
-TJ
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