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M101 CDN/M416 tongue mod question

Pierre C

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

Good evening to all!

I’m planning to extend the tongue on my trailer this winter. It will be a tubing to fit a Max Coupler. Here’s my question. Would you put the tubing from the coupler to the back end? I want to know if you see pros & cons. The pro I see is that I could use that as a recovery point when the trailer is attached at the Jeep.

any thoughts on that?
 

M Rose

Local Expert
Mod Team
Member

Advocate III

My ATV trailer is setup this way. The main tongue reach extends to the very rear of the trailer and then ties into a “T” brace for the rear. The triangular braces are bent to form the sides of the deck and also terminate at the rear cross brace. The front cross brace is notched and welded for the tongue reach, while the center braces are two pieces of angle iron instead of c channel .
 

Pierre C

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

My ATV trailer is setup this way. The main tongue reach extends to the very rear of the trailer and then ties into a “T” brace for the rear. The triangular braces are bent to form the sides of the deck and also terminate at the rear cross brace. The front cross brace is notched and welded for the tongue reach, while the center braces are two pieces of angle iron instead of c channel .
Did you have to use your trailer to pull out your vehicle?
 

Mil T

Rank I
Launch Member

Enthusiast I

Waste of money and time to run it all the way back. You don't gain any more strength. Just put a receiver on the back and run your front hitch where a normal hitch would be. That saves a lot of weight and money on that long 2 inch or 2.5 inch box tubing that would probably weight in the neighborhood of 100 lb's depending on the length of your trailer.
 

Pierre C

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

Waste of money and time to run it all the way back. You don't gain any more strength. Just put a receiver on the back and run your front hitch where a normal hitch would be. That saves a lot of weight and money on that long 2 inch or 2.5 inch box tubing that would probably weight in the neighborhood of 100 lb's depending on the length of your trailer.
That’s exactly why I’m asking this. You ha e the sams counter argument that I do on that idea. It might be useful but at what cost?
 

Pierre C

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

Good evening!

I need your input on my project. I need to extent my tongue. In ordre to have a clear 90 deg with trailer and JKU when I back up, I need 35'' between the trailer and the pivot point.

If I extend the tongue in relation with my wheels, I need 120'' from the center of my trailer wheel and the pivot point IOT have that ''idea'' lenght.

My dilema is that doing that 120'' lenght, I would have a around 20'' ''extra''

Should a go for full lenght or go to the minimum I need?

Pic of the plan attach.

OVB.png

Thanks
 

M Rose

Local Expert
Mod Team
Member

Advocate III

Good evening!

I need your input on my project. I need to extent my tongue. In ordre to have a clear 90 deg with trailer and JKU when I back up, I need 35'' between the trailer and the pivot point.

If I extend the tongue in relation with my wheels, I need 120'' from the center of my trailer wheel and the pivot point IOT have that ''idea'' lenght.

My dilema is that doing that 120'' lenght, I would have a around 20'' ''extra''

Should a go for full lenght or go to the minimum I need?

Pic of the plan attach.

View attachment 144961

Thanks
I’m not sure I understand the question completely... how much further do you have to extend the tongue past the original tongue... How wide is the trailer, I’m too lazy to look it up. I would make the tongue the length of the width of the box. Measured from the front of the box to the end of the tongue
 

Pierre C

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

From the box of the trailer to the tongue box, I need approx 34’’. So I need in total from the trailer to pivot point approx 70’’.
 

Pierre C

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

I’ve read/was told that the ideal length from pivot to the trailer hub should be equal to the distance between front and rear wheels out the towing vehicle. That’s 120’’ for me.
 

M Rose

Local Expert
Mod Team
Member

Advocate III

The longer the distance between the coupler and the trailer axle, the slower the trailer turns. The shorter the distance the quicker it turns. 120” is going to not only slow your turning down, but might also hinder your load capacity as well.. I would split the minimum by the wheel base...(120” - 70)/2=25 25+70= 95”
so I would make the tongue from Coupler to axle center 95”
 

Pierre C

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

That’s what I was thinking when I measured that to today. It’s was to long but I had no clu how to figure that out. Question, in your calculations, why divide by 2?
 

M Rose

Local Expert
Mod Team
Member

Advocate III

That’s what I was thinking when I measured that to today. It’s was to long but I had no clu how to figure that out. Question, in your calculations, why divide by 2?
Because you need to split the difference and average it... without dividing by 2 you get 50” which would get you right back to 120” if added to the minimum length. I got “2” from basic averaging... to average something you either add or subtract a data pool then divide By the number of data pool entries... in our case we had 2 data entries therefore divided by “2”.
 

Pretzel

Rank IV

Member III

I'd be sketched out doing a recovery from the trailer end, it's one thing to pull a vehicle dragging a trailer vs. pulling a trailer dragging a stuck vehicle. Can the coupler/hitch handle that or am I overthinking it?
 

Pierre C

Rank IV
Member

Enthusiast III

I still can do it but not this year lol! I thinks it’s all depends of the coupler I guess.
 

smritte

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

I'd be sketched out doing a recovery from the trailer end, it's one thing to pull a vehicle dragging a trailer vs. pulling a trailer dragging a stuck vehicle. Can the coupler/hitch handle that or am I overthinking it?
That's kind of an open ended question. Its going to be based on how well your hitch is attached to the vehicle and exactly what your stuck in. For example, a trailer ball can break if used as a recovery point. I've watched people stuck in the mud so bad it took 4 winchs to extract them and I've watched bumpers come off due to poor mounting.
With my set up, I wouldn't hesitate to have myself pulled back using the receiver on the back of my trailer. Unless it was deep mud. I would then extract the trailer then the vehicle.
Build it strong, build the bumper strong and analyze the situation.
 
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