Dual Battery System | OVERLAND BOUND COMMUNITY

Dual Battery System

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overlandozzy

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Traveler I

How can I mount my dual batteries in my 2006 Tacoma? I have something from the factory on the passenger side by the firewall and its in the way of putting another battery.
 

RockyMountaineer

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Depends, are concerned about any warranty issues? I assume not sure to the age of the vehicle. But I would either start with a conversation with your local dealer or try something like this:

grid-engineering.myshopify.com/products/2nd-3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma

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overlandozzy

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Traveler I

Depends, are concerned about any warranty issues? I assume not sure to the age of the vehicle. But I would either start with a conversation with your local dealer or try something like this:

grid-engineering.myshopify.com/products/2nd-3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
my warranty is long gone i dont care
 

MOAK

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Contact Slee Offroad in Colorado. If they do not have a kit to do this no one else does either.
 

Trail_Blazer

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I have a 2011 Jeep JKUL Rubicon and I installed a National Luna Dual Battery System Kit, with surface Mounted controller. I can say that the installation was a like putting frozen Jell-O in a balloon. You can do it, but you'll only try it once. First the 2011 Jeep JK has minimal extra space in the engine compartment. I found a bracket that bolts in place, but if I ever need to change a manifold, it's got to come out. I can't remember the make of the bracket, sorry. I changed the batteries to AGM Batteries. I have one Red Top (the main vehicle battery), and one Yellow Top (2nd battery for accessories, deep discharge). They fit like a glove!

NL_Dual_Battery_Kit_3.jpg

The National Luna Intelligent Split Charging Kit is a complete turnkey Dual Battery system, that includes an Intelligent Solenoid, Dual Battery Controller, and all the necessary materials to complete the job. Across the top of the batteries, I had to manufacture a bracket to hold down the controller and solenoid that separates the batteries. The remote surface mounted controller had a long cable and is mounted inside the center console (I swapped out the OEM console for a Tuffy security console that has this little shelf, almost as if it were made for the controller). A near perfect setup!

NL_DBC_Surface_Mount.jpg

Now the bad news. The first issue I had, was when I had to travel overseas for several months. The controller or solenoid has a trickle discharge I didn't know about and both batteries were dead by the time I came home. Fortunately, the guys (and gals) at Optima told me how I could try (and did) recharge the batteries. The second more troubling issue was when the solenoid shorted out. The batteries were severely discharging overnight. I thought it was because of the first issue until I touched the solenoid and burned myself. Needed a new solenoid, which National Luna gladly sold me.

NL_Intelligent_Solenoid.jpg

The system works, and when it works, well. I wouldn't recommend it as a first choice and now that these are more common place, I'd have to do more research on what is out there. But I can't argue enough for a second battery system. I run my radios (a must to reduce noise), some auxiliary LED lights, and refrigerator off of the second battery. The main battery has the winch (a must), the off-road lights, and vehicle systems. The alternator keeps the batteries charged, but I'd still (and am currently) considering upgrading the alternator.
 

MOAK

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Just a random comment here about dual battery management systems. The Journal just did a review of several different management systems and in a sidebar they discussed how very practical the manual management system is. I've always been a firm believer in the KISS method and managed my batteries with a manual switch. With a bit of ingenuity, 60 bucks for all the wiring, a big fuse and the switch, it will never fail. Some of those high dollar management systems can and will fail eventually. Ask me how I know? 25 years in a big truck and a couple of em had battery powered heating, cooling and electrical in the bunks. One of them was never reliable, so I ended up idling the truck for 8 or 9 hours a day. The other failed once and as I was way off the beaten path up in Quebec, I waited nearly 4 hours for service to get me rolling again. That weekend the maintenance crew replaced the faulty $3,000 system. The new and improved system lasted only 2 years. So, be very careful with your selection of management systems. download.jpg
 

Buzzard13

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Eh Oldfooladventures Moak, you would have a wiring diagram for that KISS method would you? I like quality and impleness, I am also visual :)
I got a 1978 dodge with a 360 and want duals. one day I'll get a 200+ battery but for now I'll run the 125 - 150s they at least start the engine great.
 

MOAK

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Eh Oldfooladventures Moak, you would have a wiring diagram for that KISS method would you? I like quality and impleness, I am also visual :)
I got a 1978 dodge with a 360 and want duals. one day I'll get a 200+ battery but for now I'll run the 125 - 150s they at least start the engine great.
Hmm. no diagram but a couple of photos with explanations.
I do things a bit differently. The first photo is the starter battery. The large protected cable leads to the second battery. After the 50 amp fuse, the dark red cable leads to a remote 100 amp six blade fuse box that I have the fridge, powered subwoofer and power inverter wired to. The light red cable ties into the solar panel. The yellow line goes to a relay for the fog lamps. DSC00212.jpeg The second photo shows the "back up/winching" battery with the isolator switch. I do it this way in case the engine won't start when stuck. I can turn the switch to the "off" position and winch without running down the starter battery. If the engine is running while winching I leave the switch in the "on" position. When we get to camp I plug in the solar panel and turn the switch to "off". When we break camp, unplug solar panel, turn switch to "on". That fat red line with the fuse blocks goes to the winch. The main black line is the ground line and the secondary black line is the winch ground. DSC00211.jpeg The third photo shows the complete installation utilizing Slee's battery box and their washer fluid relocation kit. I must add that these Duralast AGM batteries have done a very nice job now for 3 years with only 60 amp hours each. Next time around though, I'll shell out a bit more and get something with more amp hours. DSC00215.JPG
 

Mouflon

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Traveler I

I've had the National Luna system installed for over two years now and have had zero issues. I will say that it is important to view all these systems as a start point. It's critical to properly set them up with isolated in-line fuses and manual breakers. Doing so ensures you can isolate the controller whenever the vehicle is stored and if the solenoid does ever short it will immediately trip a fuse and not drain a battery... or worse. Investing in the right gauge wiring for the span is another essential safety step. Below are a few pics of my National Luna install.



Solenoid mounted on the firewall


Second battery, isolated with 150 amp fuse (custom bracket welded to battery box). Solenoid in background.


Manual breaker to isolate entire system, fuse to primary battery and secondary fuse box


2 gauge lead coming off primary battery.


Controller in the cab.
 

Trail_Blazer

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I've had the National Luna system installed for over two years now and have had zero issues. I will say that it is important to view all these systems as a start point. It's critical to properly set them up with isolated in-line fuses and manual breakers. Doing so ensures you can isolate the controller whenever the vehicle is stored and if the solenoid does ever short it will immediately trip a fuse and not drain a battery... or worse. Investing in the right gauge wiring for the span is another essential safety step.

Nice clean setup and similar to my setup. I invested in an SPOD, so the Auxiliary battery goes to it, then out to the accessories. It has a nice switch panel that is above the mirror, so its out of the way. The complete installed was engineered from wire sizes to loads on the battery and alternator. I have inline fuses from everything that leaves there battery. The issue I had with the National Luna setup was the solenoid was bad and would drain the battery in a night. I found it when I burned myself on the solenoid while troubleshooting the issue. Easily fixed and haven't had an issue with it since.

I have a second accessory system off of the main battery. These are mostly lights and run while the vehicle is running. Like your system, it runs to a circuit breaker, onto the fuse box, and then switched inside the cab. Great pictures!
 
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W4P

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Tech is a vacuum! I love it but it sucks! Thirty years ago my van had ten dollar constant cycle start solenoid,wire,switch and one of the first really not sine inverters. It ran my pre battery drills for mobile electronics install. never broke,failed because I was the controller. However over the years battery companies realized that vehicles weren't charging the second battery completely. Hence the Smartpass system and others that isolate and charge the battery properly. Pure isolation can't do that,battery is never topped up especially with new tech driven alternators. Tread carefully,read lots,read this forum especially but also try to see real live people installs. Surprisingly no more than this comment..on the internet does not constitute truth or reality off road hundred miles from somewhere!!!


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adventure_is_necessary

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I'll be the odd man out and say stick with a one-battery setup with a good battery like the NorthStart or Odyessy brands. They make ones with a deep cycle. OB Michael slapped in a NorthStar in his rig. I can see the need for a second battery if the usage is more than one of these expensive ones.
 

BerettaMato

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I have been very happy with this set up. The Blue Sea ML-ACR is very simple and has worked great. I will be adding a third battery just for the fridge hooked up to solar soon. The three fuse box zones has work out great. At this time I can run the fridge for five days befor aux battery is too low and the fridge will turn itself off.







 
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WE ROME

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I have a 2011 Jeep JKUL Rubicon and I installed a National Luna Dual Battery System Kit, with surface Mounted controller. I can say that the installation was a like putting frozen Jell-O in a balloon. You can do it, but you'll only try it once. First the 2011 Jeep JK has minimal extra space in the engine compartment. I found a bracket that bolts in place, but if I ever need to change a manifold, it's got to come out. I can't remember the make of the bracket, sorry. I changed the batteries to AGM Batteries. I have one Red Top (the main vehicle battery), and one Yellow Top (2nd battery for accessories, deep discharge). They fit like a glove!

View attachment 26015

The National Luna Intelligent Split Charging Kit is a complete turnkey Dual Battery system, that includes an Intelligent Solenoid, Dual Battery Controller, and all the necessary materials to complete the job. Across the top of the batteries, I had to manufacture a bracket to hold down the controller and solenoid that separates the batteries. The remote surface mounted controller had a long cable and is mounted inside the center console (I swapped out the OEM console for a Tuffy security console that has this little shelf, almost as if it were made for the controller). A near perfect setup!

View attachment 26017

Now the bad news. The first issue I had, was when I had to travel overseas for several months. The controller or solenoid has a trickle discharge I didn't know about and both batteries were dead by the time I came home. Fortunately, the guys (and gals) at Optima told me how I could try (and did) recharge the batteries. The second more troubling issue was when the solenoid shorted out. The batteries were severely discharging overnight. I thought it was because of the first issue until I touched the solenoid and burned myself. Needed a new solenoid, which National Luna gladly sold me.

View attachment 26016

The system works, and when it works, well. I wouldn't recommend it as a first choice and now that these are more common place, I'd have to do more research on what is out there. But I can't argue enough for a second battery system. I run my radios (a must to reduce noise), some auxiliary LED lights, and refrigerator off of the second battery. The main battery has the winch (a must), the off-road lights, and vehicle systems. The alternator keeps the batteries charged, but I'd still (and am currently) considering upgrading the alternator.
I installed a National Luna System and it is not reliable, the cable that attaches to the spiraling light display, which shows your degree of charge, comes loose. Overland Journal, summer issue, rated many dual battery system controllers and noted the same weakness. Editor's Choice was the Intelligent Battery System
http://ibs-tech.ch/en/products/dual-battery-system.html
 

NWNavigator

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Coming up on a year with my Off-Grid Engineering set up and love it. No fuss, no worries. Keeps my Engel cooler running 24/7/365. Not inexpensive, but an easy install and looks like it came from the factory. When you add up all the bits this system looks pretty reasonable.

Offgrid1.jpg
 
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