2nd Alternator for House Power

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Billiebob

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Has anyone done this....

I'm leaning to adding a second alternator and a dedicated/isolated electrical system for the trailer. Pricing out this option I'm pretty sure I will save money..... plus I get a second alternator which could be rerouted if the vehicles main alternator dies..... in the past 40 years the only time I needed a tow was when the alternator died and I failed to check the voltage gauge to see the dropping voltage before the truck died.

I'm liking the simplicity of an isolated system for the house.
 

smritte

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Years ago when the highest output automotive alternator was less than 100 amps, I did a few addon systems. Easily done if you can figure out where to mount the other unit. It also wasn't uncommon on to add in a second as a back up on some of our desert race trucks.
The two biggest obstacles are where to put it and getting the belt spot on if you have a serp belt. Somewhere in my garage I have a small laser aligning tool designed for that. As for the wiring, you can run as two separate or in parallel if their the same. If I was going to do this, I would run them separate and feed a wire to my trailer so the alternator can sense and adjust the voltage accordingly.
As for sizing, my general rule is, I allot 40 amps per battery plus whatever else i have on at the same time.
My cruiser has an 80 amp alternator, I'm adding a second battery on-board, my trailer has one. 120 amp plus 40 for vehicle max.
My output is the main reason I haven't added the second battery yet.
 
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I saw a thread on some site or another earlier today with a nicely fabbed up, extended sliding slot bracket just for mounting a second alternator, but damned if I can find it now.

I've considered doing the same in the past, with the 2nd alt for a set of house batts in my old van. My current van has a HD 145 amp alternator, which seems to be doing just fine with the two starting batteries and running power to the trailer and it's two batteries when towing. I still wonder if I might be better off with another alternator or get one of the even higher output amps like the Mean Green 220 amp:


If I run across the other thread I'll link it here, if you're interested.

.
 

Billiebob

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I've started looking at the second alternator, isolated house since I started pricing the components to run both trailer and vehicle off the same alternator. I know the second alternator will be cheaper, I just need to find the brackets. I have a TJ with a 4.0L and AC. There is a system to add a second huge alternator in place of the AC built for guys running 1000W sound systems. I'm trying to locate those parts. Most of them are installed in Cherokees and Grand Cherokees running 4.0L engines.

I don't need a bigger alternator, I can likely use just the standard 88amp unit. But I want an isolated house. Which could be wired to replace the stock alternator if it ever fails.
 

smritte

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I mounted a york compressor on my TJ for on board air. There are (were) kits to use a smaller Sanden compressor . I would start with that to get the mounts to the engine then, modify for the alternator. There's enough space on the upper passenger side. With the york set up, you lose the tensioner and have to slide the compressor for belt tension. I regret not modding in the tensioner. Not sure if that's true for the Sanden. That option looked cleaner.

I had replaced my TJ stator with a 150 amp unit. It maxxed out at about 155. The regulation and sensing is controlled by the pcm. If you chose to use two in parallel, I'm not sure if the driver in the pcm could handle the current flow. It's been a while but I think the rotor pulled 5 or 6 amps. For a second one i would use something stand alone (internal regulator) and set it for internal sensing.

Cool thing here is, the factory set up is easily modded for on board welding.
 

tjZ06

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I had a buddy when I was younger who ran 2nd alternators on all of his stuff. His family ran an automotive electrical shop, so it sort of was a no-brainer for him. It seems like 2nd alternators are not done as often anymore with much higher output alternators available. Of course, a higher output single alternator doesn't give you the redundancy you're after.

Are you handy with basic fab-work and automotive wiring at all? Do you have friends that are? If not you might want to leave this to pros. I'd actually call stereo shops to see if they've done multi-alternator setups (or low-rider/hydraulic shops if you have them in your area). The way my buddy ran his, and the way I'd suggest would be an isolated belt just for the 2nd alternator. Yes, you could try to get the alternator snaked in with your current accessory drive, but then a) you're complicating that setup and you no longer can get a replacement belt by just looking up your vehicle b) you don't have true isolation/redundancy. I'd start with determining if you even have room to make this happen. You need a spot for the 2nd alternator obviously, but you also need enough room in front of the current balancer/pulley assembly to add another pulley. These days most vehicles now run a 1-piece balancer/pulley that's very had to add an additional pulley to properly. One option there would be to switch to an ATI damper that *usually* has a bolt-on crank pulley. That gives you some options to "stack." Another option is to drive the alternator of any other pulley in the assembly (power-steering, the current alternator, etc.). In fact, if I remember right my buddy often just stacked alternator pulleys on the primary alt.

From there, how you wire it up will be the interesting part. You said it you want it exclusively for the house-batteries back in the trailer, right? I think you'll need to run decently large-gauge wiring all the way back to the trailer, using a dedicated, large connector vs. trying to route that kind of power through the 4/7 pin trailer connector. Then you also have to figure out how you'll cross it over to the chassis battery(ies) if needed. One simple option is just to make sure your wiring harness has enough slack that if the primary fails you can just disconnect from it, and connect to the secondary. A transfer switch of some sort would be a more elegant solution. Another way to do it would be not to fully separate the systems, but use a proper battery isolator. These isolators make sure 100% of the charging goes to the chassis battery until it reaches a specific voltage, then they begin to charge the secondary battery(ies). With a setup like this you'd wire both alternators to it so they'll provide charging to both the vehicle and trailer. The only "problem" with this is that I suppose it'd be harder to detect a single alternator dying.

Alllllllllllllllll of that said, with Overlanding we tend to have hours and hours of drive time between camping stops. As such, I really think an isolator like I described and just your single alternator will get the job done. Perhaps swapped out your current, good alternator with a higher output unit and keep the stock one as a spare in the rig or trailer somewhere? Sometimes KISS is best.

-TJ