2008 Tahoe Z71 suspension question....

[Adventuring Slipper]

So I just replaced the struts and shock all around with Bilstein 5100's. I ended up re-using my original coil springs that have 155k on them. I initially set the front struts to the fourth and highest setting which would raise the front 1.77" from stock. After having a tough time getting the lower mount onto the LCA I decided to move the spring to the third setting which would raise it 1.1" until i order some Dirt King UCA's. It seemed my limit was reached with the stock UCA's. I measured the height of the front from the fender to the center of the hub and found that one side is about 1/2" higher than the other???? Does anyone have any ideas what may cause this? I'm guessing maybe a weak coils spring. I am planning on replacing the springs with new ones in the next week or so.

Appreciate it any input.

 

[madcratebuilder]

Half inch is a lot on the front, I would say springs are tried. A set of Eibach springs should fix it. It's pretty common to see the rear vary up to a half inch.

 

[Adventuring Slipper]

Half inch is a lot on the front, I would say springs are tried. A set of Eibach springs should fix it. It's pretty common to see the rear vary up to a half inch.

That’s what I was thinking. I just ordered a set of Moog 81246 to replace the original set. Tks for the input.

 

[Adventuring Slipper]

The rear was within an 1/8” of less of each side. I also ordered a new set of Moog 81069 coil springs to freshen up the rear.

 

[Boostpowered]

It's pretty common for gm trucks to have a lean on the drivers side.
If you want to go to the highest setting it's gonna take some muscle or mechanical genius to get em on. What I do when fooling with my 4 inch lift on my Colorado is under the front end with it jacked up tires off etc use a Ratchet strap from lca to the other lca and crank on them till you can get both shocks on.

 

[Adventuring Slipper]

Tks for all the input. I replaced the coil springs with news ones from Moog as said above. Initial measurements shown both side of the front to be around 38” from bottom of fender to the ground. Then when I measured yesterday after a few days of driving found there to be about 3/8” difference between the pass and driver side fronts.
Any other thoughts?

my thoughts are beginning to lean towards worn out bushings in the UCA’s and LCA’s. I’m planning to replace the uppers with Dirt Kings and go with new Moog lowers with a greaseable ball joint. It’s cheaper to just go with a complete LCA from rock auto than to buy bushings and try to push them out of the stock ones.

 

[ThundahBeagle]

Uh, is that a coil-over setup? My 14 GMC Sierra is a coil-over setup and I swear, when removing the coil from the shock, your last will and testament should be in order, unless you have a Branick wall mounted spring compressor!

I also have the Bilstein 5100's and like them. I did manage to get the coil over assembly back in place. It's a matter of jacking (and supporting!), prying, and having removed the sway bar link. I did not have to change out the A arms but it's only been a year, so who knows, maybe they wont last as long my way.

I like the 5100's better than the Ranchos. But if I had to do it again, I would not go to the highest setting without Dirt Kings or similar. The ride at the too setting with stock A arms and stock sway bar links is a little stiff. I might go down one ring next time.

Plus, with my Leer truck cap on, and the bed full of camping great and tools, I have a slight sag in the rear. So when not camping or working with my tools, I want to keep it empty

When I first did it, I used a meter stick to measure from bottom of wheel wells to the ground. I think all measurements in my driveway were within half inch and the driveway is not perfectly level.

Old springs and isolators, and how much you do or do not crank down on that center bolt, may all come into play. I know on my old 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I got new perch isolators when I installed the IRO springs. What a difference.

I believe Bilstein offers another package, not called the 5100, but it is a full coil over assembly with springs and all, just install.

The other thing that helped with clearances was the fact I took the air dam off the bottom of the front bumper. Made a lot of difference, too, since the trucks are pretty good stock

 

[Adventuring Slipper]

Uh, is that a coil-over setup? My 14 GMC Sierra is a coil-over setup and I swear, when removing the coil from the shock, your last will and testament should be in order, unless you have a Branick wall mounted spring compressor!

I also have the Bilstein 5100's and like them. I did manage to get the coil over assembly back in place. It's a matter of jacking (and supporting!), prying, and having removed the sway bar link. I did not have to change out the A arms but it's only been a year, so who knows, maybe they wont last as long my way.

I like the 5100's better than the Ranchos. But if I had to do it again, I would not go to the highest setting without Dirt Kings or similar. The ride at the too setting with stock A arms and stock sway bar links is a little stiff. I might go down one ring next time.

Plus, with my Leer truck cap on, and the bed full of camping great and tools, I have a slight sag in the rear. So when not camping or working with my tools, I want to keep it empty

When I first did it, I used a meter stick to measure from bottom of wheel wells to the ground. I think all measurements in my driveway were within half inch and the driveway is not perfectly level.

Old springs and isolators, and how much you do or do not crank down on that center bolt, may all come into play. I know on my old 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I got new perch isolators when I installed the IRO springs. What a difference.

I believe Bilstein offers another package, not called the 5100, but it is a full coil over assembly with springs and all, just install.

The other thing that helped with clearances was the fact I took the air dam off the bottom of the front bumper. Made a lot of difference, too, since the trucks are pretty good stock

Tks for the input. I am going to wait on raising the spring to the highest setting until I get the UCA’s. The upper ball joint is the limiting factor when strut assembly in there. I also have to get new wheels for the Dirt Kings to work. Factory 18” z71 wheels have too much offset at +31 which is equally to something over 5” of backspacing. The DK UCA’s have a max of 4.750” backspacing. I’m going to go with an 8.5” wheel anyway.

Bilstein 6112’s are the ones I wanted to install. They come with springs and what not. Problem is they are out of stock everywhere. A much better strut too. 60mm diameter vs 46mm in the 5100’s. They offer up to 2.75” of lift as well.

 

[ThundahBeagle]

Tks for the input. I am going to wait on raising the spring to the highest setting until I get the UCA’s. The upper ball joint is the limiting factor when strut assembly in there. I also have to get new wheels for the Dirt Kings to work. Factory 18” z71 wheels have too much offset at +31 which is equally to something over 5” of backspacing. The DK UCA’s have a max of 4.750” backspacing. I’m going to go with an 8.5” wheel anyway.

Bilstein 6112’s are the ones I wanted to install. They come with springs and what not. Problem is they are out of stock everywhere. A much better strut too. 60mm diameter vs 46mm in the 5100’s. They offer up to 2.75” of lift as well.

See? That's the other part of it, for me. Change the CA's, which then forces me to buy different wheels, and so on. The closer to stock, or compatible with stock, the better. I want different wheels if I want different wheels. Not if one modification forces another. Which forces yet another.

Right! the 6112! Seems like a good idea for next time

 

[Sparksalot]

Bilstein 6112’s are the ones I wanted to install. They come with springs and what not. Problem is they are out of stock everywhere. A much better strut too. 60mm diameter vs 46mm in the 5100’s. They offer up to 2.75” of lift as well.

Thanks for the tip.