Contributor III
What is the best winch
- Thread starter Shermantank20
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Advocate III
- 5,584
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- Michael
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- Rose
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20990
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- W7FSB
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- US ARMY Retired
You are going to want at least a 9500 series winch but I perso would go as far as your wallet will allow. I’m running a MileMarker 18,000 lb hydro winch. Not cheap, but after heavy use and 10 years, when I hit the switch it works...
I’ll post pictures later with the winch mounted on my Ram before transfer to my 89 Bronco FS
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Contributor III
Breeze through all the posts but #92 is what tells you the good and bad of the Harbor Freight Winch
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madcratebuilder
Rank V
Pathfinder I
AA1PR
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Enthusiast III
Contributor II
Some will tell you that you need a winch that will lift your rig off the ground. Usually, you just need a tug.
I use a 6000# Warn on a stinger. I rarely need it. It will drag my 5000# Wrangler with single line direct pull with brakes locked and good traction. (a crew cab F350 buried in the snow makes a good anchor).
I prefer to keep it in the garage (out of the weather) for daily driving and like to be able to use it from either end. I sacrifice some power to keep the weight down and the ability to carry it through the mud. I've never been disappointied.
I can also attach it to other rigs and use a jumper cable to power it.
$.02
I use a 6000# Warn on a stinger. I rarely need it. It will drag my 5000# Wrangler with single line direct pull with brakes locked and good traction. (a crew cab F350 buried in the snow makes a good anchor).
I prefer to keep it in the garage (out of the weather) for daily driving and like to be able to use it from either end. I sacrifice some power to keep the weight down and the ability to carry it through the mud. I've never been disappointied.
I can also attach it to other rigs and use a jumper cable to power it.
$.02
madcratebuilder
Rank V
Pathfinder I
Remember the winch rating is with the first layer of rope/wire, each added roll is a 10-15% reduction in capability.
Enthusiast I
Advocate III
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- Rose
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I love my Mile Marker HS18000 hydraulic winch.
As for line? Depends... if you’re using it mostly in a desert environment over large rocks, steel cable is more durable than synthetic line, but if in a wet environment synthetic line won’t rust... steel is cheaper to replace, synthetic is lighter and more prone to stretch... the pros and cons go on... my MM is spooled with 100’ of 9/16” steel cable... I can’t get synthetic cable close to matching my winch capacity, so I don’t have an option to change over.
@KRose 4Runner will be getting a SmittyBuilt 12,000 lb winch with synthetic line to keep weight down.
As for line? Depends... if you’re using it mostly in a desert environment over large rocks, steel cable is more durable than synthetic line, but if in a wet environment synthetic line won’t rust... steel is cheaper to replace, synthetic is lighter and more prone to stretch... the pros and cons go on... my MM is spooled with 100’ of 9/16” steel cable... I can’t get synthetic cable close to matching my winch capacity, so I don’t have an option to change over.
@KRose 4Runner will be getting a SmittyBuilt 12,000 lb winch with synthetic line to keep weight down.
madcratebuilder
Rank V
Pathfinder I
Syn is worth the added cost times ten. Lighter, no metal slivers in your hands, does not store energy like metal line, if it breaks it falls to the ground. You still need to follow all safety precautions. It requires more maintenance vs steel. You really should wash it in a bucket of water after using to get dirt and dust out.
Enthusiast I
That was my thought process too. That and making sure it’s covered when not in use. I’ve heard the elements can really wear down synthetic
Off-Road Ranger I
If anyone is looking for a mid-range winch, Amazon has a smoking deal on the Smittybilt X2O Comp 12k winch. This has the synthetic line and meets the IP68 "Water Proof" standards. It is currently going for $503.21. I called one of the largest aftermarket Jeep parts sellers to see if they would match the price... their response was that the price is below what they pay for it.
"Best" winch depends on your application, but Warn is the most well known for a reason. They have a reputation for flawless reliability. But, that reputation comes with a price tag, so "best" for your budget might warrant a different option.
General advice -- another poster already mentioned that winch ratings are based on the first row of rope, and they lose efficiency after that. So at a minimum, I would go for 150% of your loaded trip weight. I would NOT just go with 150% of your GVM unless you are religious about sticking to that number, and most people aren't. Next time you are loaded for a trip, go drive over a truck scale and find out how much you weigh fully loaded. Add at least half that weight again and you'll be in the ballpark for what size winch you need. And don't forget to consider the weight of the winch and mount in your figure -- a bull bar can be as much as 20% of a smaller vehicles payload capacity, for instance. When it doubt, get more than you need.
A Wireless winch is a great safety feature - it allows you (or whoever is operating your winch) to be well outside the hazard area. I would also say you want to consider if you need a remote solenoid, or if your winch mounting solution has clearance for a particular type of solenoid (some only fit centre solenoid winches, for instance).
Synthetic rope is better for two reasons. First is weight -- it can save you 50-75lbs hanging over the front end, and that's significant. The second reason is safety. Synthetic rope tends to go "Poof" when it breaks, with a million tiny fibres in the air while the ends just fall limply. Steel cables whip with enough force to maim or kill. However synthetics are more susceptible to UV damage, so a winch cover and a regular inspection is advisable.
The easy answer is, once you've considered the above, go buy a Warn that'll work and upgrade to a synthetic line. You will not be disappointed by that. However, I've heard great things about Runva and Smittybilt winches -- maybe not the best, but reliable enough and far better value for money than the Warn. If you are doing a lot of stuff solo to remote areas with no traffic, a Warn is the best bet for the most peace of mind. But if you regularly go in groups or go to areas where groups are present, your risk profiles goes down a lot, and you can maybe afford to save a few dollars on reputation and go with a more modestly priced winch. If that's your category, check out Costco -- bulletproof return policy, and they often have winches with accessory packs on for fairly good deals (I recall a 10k lbs Champion winch with a receiver cradle was under $400 CDN a few years back).
The best investment you can make in any winch is preventative maintenance. Winches are ridiculously simple -- just electric motors and gears. Stay on top of maintaining your winch with regular cleaning, greasing, testing, and keeping it covered, and it should last you a really long time. And to make extra sure, don't thrash your winch with constant use - give it time to cool between pulls.
General advice -- another poster already mentioned that winch ratings are based on the first row of rope, and they lose efficiency after that. So at a minimum, I would go for 150% of your loaded trip weight. I would NOT just go with 150% of your GVM unless you are religious about sticking to that number, and most people aren't. Next time you are loaded for a trip, go drive over a truck scale and find out how much you weigh fully loaded. Add at least half that weight again and you'll be in the ballpark for what size winch you need. And don't forget to consider the weight of the winch and mount in your figure -- a bull bar can be as much as 20% of a smaller vehicles payload capacity, for instance. When it doubt, get more than you need.
A Wireless winch is a great safety feature - it allows you (or whoever is operating your winch) to be well outside the hazard area. I would also say you want to consider if you need a remote solenoid, or if your winch mounting solution has clearance for a particular type of solenoid (some only fit centre solenoid winches, for instance).
Synthetic rope is better for two reasons. First is weight -- it can save you 50-75lbs hanging over the front end, and that's significant. The second reason is safety. Synthetic rope tends to go "Poof" when it breaks, with a million tiny fibres in the air while the ends just fall limply. Steel cables whip with enough force to maim or kill. However synthetics are more susceptible to UV damage, so a winch cover and a regular inspection is advisable.
The easy answer is, once you've considered the above, go buy a Warn that'll work and upgrade to a synthetic line. You will not be disappointed by that. However, I've heard great things about Runva and Smittybilt winches -- maybe not the best, but reliable enough and far better value for money than the Warn. If you are doing a lot of stuff solo to remote areas with no traffic, a Warn is the best bet for the most peace of mind. But if you regularly go in groups or go to areas where groups are present, your risk profiles goes down a lot, and you can maybe afford to save a few dollars on reputation and go with a more modestly priced winch. If that's your category, check out Costco -- bulletproof return policy, and they often have winches with accessory packs on for fairly good deals (I recall a 10k lbs Champion winch with a receiver cradle was under $400 CDN a few years back).
The best investment you can make in any winch is preventative maintenance. Winches are ridiculously simple -- just electric motors and gears. Stay on top of maintaining your winch with regular cleaning, greasing, testing, and keeping it covered, and it should last you a really long time. And to make extra sure, don't thrash your winch with constant use - give it time to cool between pulls.
Today the hype is always bigger but I worked in a shop in the 1970s installing winches, ptos etc on forestry and oil field trucks, the standard for a 3/4 ton pickup or 1 ton welding truck was a Tulsa 5E, a 5000# electric winch. I have a Warn M8 on my TJR, wayy overkill. Don't get lost on the capacity, I know a 5000# would be more than I ever need. An 8K# winch should have no problem with a K5 Blazer.
ps was the K5 a thing, I thought that number disappeared in 1988..
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You reminded me of another point, Billiebob. A winch should be a tiny part of your recovery kit. I think you are right about not needing the capacity, but the reason I suggest 150% of trip weight is because I'm assuming that if I'm reaching for the winch, it's because my proper off-road tires have failed to get traction, my lockers aren't helping me, and the MaxTrax won't do it -- I'm so bogged, I'm not just fighting vehicle weight, but I'm also fighting hundreds of lbs of mud, at which time the peace of mind of having a bit of extra capacity is crucial.
I've winched a lot, but not nearly as much as I've shovelled, max-trax'd, or even just let a few more PSI out of the tires to see how I did. More often than not, the 'easy' steps are far more effective.
Warch line speed as you increase capacity. Lots of winches just gear down to change the rating, still using the same parts.
There are definitely some good inexpensive brands out there. I've only had Warns and can't recommend one.
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Advocate III
- 5,584
- First Name
- Michael
- Last Name
- Rose
- Member #
-
20990
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- W7FSB
- Service Branch
- US ARMY Retired
In Hotel 8 school (army recovery school) they spend several days in the classroom going over static resistances. Meaning stuck in mud, snow, disabled wheels, frame buried, etc... the 150% is a minimum...
