Trip from Moscow to Baikal

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AdvantureGalley

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Traveler I

233
Moscow, Russia
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13919

Good day! I wanted to share my experience and impressions about going to Lake Baikal from Moscow by car. After reading more than one review of the trip to Lake Baikal, I noticed that some of the details, important, were missed. I will describe them below.
We: I, my beloved wife, and the two most loyal dogs, the standard and mini bull terriers, Shakari and Zakhar went on a journey to Baikal in their own car, the Toyota LC200, prepared for the exit from the road, allowing you to climb into almost all interesting, difficult-to-passable places and stop overnight with a tent. Having read about the different routes, Moscow-Yaroslavl-Kirov-Perm-Ekaterinburg-Tyumen-Omsk-Novosibirsk-Kemerovo-Krasnoyarsk-Irkutsk-Baikal, and Moscow-Vladimir-Nizhny-Novgorod-Cheboksary-Kazan-Ufa-Chelyabinsk-Kurgan-Omsk -Novosibirsk-Kemerovo-Krasnoyarsk-Irkutsk-Baikal, have chosen the second route.
According to reviews, the quality of the roads was better along the second route, which we actually saw when we went to Lake Baikal along the second route, and after returning along the first one. On both routes a lot of road repair, with the overlap of one of the two lanes, be careful, especially in the dark. Observed the consequence of the error of two truckers on such an overlap, both trucks are not subject to recovery, which is not known with people.
The menu in the roadside cafes does not shine with originality, it is rather even good, all the dishes are familiar, you can eat quite not expensive. Delve into the issue of catering, we will not. On the way to Baikal, we tried to cook ourselves, on a fire, all the necessary accessories in the form of a good, folding barbecue, allowing to use it also as a mini wood-burning stove with tiles for pans, pots ..., a tripod, good folding dishes and other kitchen utensils. The road is almost everywhere, two-lane, you quickly get used to overtaking, the main thing is to see what is in the overtaking lane, there were holes in which you can remain without wheels.
The route was broken for 5 days, 1000km a day, without arrival in the city. In the priority stop for the night near the water. The first stop was through 700km, on the banks of the river. Kama. Little did not fulfill the plan for the number of kilometers left behind, but the place was worth it. The road made its own adjustments to the route, repair, stops in areas with reverse movement. The third stop on the plan was in a less suitable roadside motel with a warm shower. Total to Irkutsk 4 overnight.
In Irkutsk, we stayed with his wife's parents. Shower, laundry, overnight and the next day, rest and walk in Listvyanka. Listvyanka is the abundance of various kinds of cafes and souvenir shops. Boring, not interesting, crowded. The next day we started on the island of Olkhon. On the way, we were able to appreciate all the beauty of the "golden autumn", in some places on the side of the road lay fresh snow. Until about. Olkhon free ferry service. We arrived on the island already in the dark, were delayed from the start in Irkutsk. We got to the village of Khuzhir and rented a small guest house (we had to pay a little extra with the dogs), decided at night not to look for a place to stop with a tent and as it turned out not in vain. In the morning I wanted to go fishing, to see the morning Baikal, but when leaving the village I came across a sign - “Pribaikalsky National Park - a specially protected natural area, entrance by passes.” Returning to the beginning, preparing for the trip, I reread a lot of information about trips to Lake Baikal, and NO ONE or ANYWHERE writes about permission. The Pribaikalsky National Park is the western coastal zone of Lake Baikal, and the park has its own restrictions on stopping by car, making fires, setting tents, collecting firewood ... As a result, the morning exploration had to be postponed until the opening of the local leshoz, where you can get permission to pay for each person in the group and for entering and parking the car. There is no map or booklet with a map where you can go, where it is allowed to stop with a tent, and where entry is forbidden in the leshoz, they do not give, and I consider it a huge minus. According to the employee of the forestry enterprise, all restrictions are due to scurrying tourists who do not follow the rules and drive into restricted areas. And if 2 + 2 = 4, then issuing cards with permitted routes is, in the opinion of the park administration, superfluous. Having received permission, I realized that you can stop with a tent on Olkhon, but during this period it is forbidden to burn fires, but what a beautiful view, a tent, a sunset and a fire - NO. Then immediately went to Cape Budun. At 8:30, there were no tourists on the cape, it pleased, no one interfered with enjoying the beauty of Lake Baikal. After lunch at a local cafe, the food was delicious and not very expensive, we moved to the side of Cape Khoboy. The road from Khuzhir to Cape Khoboy is not intended for sedans, the road through the fields may still be suitable for a low-slung car, but a section of the forest road is not suitable for such cars. Although I would not be surprised if people visit Cape Khoboy and on sedans.
Khoboy Cape is a tourist place, here even in September, in not the warmest time, you can meet many tourists, especially from China. Near the cape there is parking, where you need to leave the car and continue to explore the neighborhood on foot. The cape itself, very beautiful with steep vertical cliffs. The nature of Siberia is generally different from the places I know. We examined the cape, made memorable photographs, walked and went to Cape Budun. It was there, in the morning, I noticed a great place for riding on the sup board. By that time the wind had increased and raised rather high waves, but we were ready for such weather, but it was the first experience in such cold water with a wetsuit. We changed into wetsuits, prepared sup boards and rushed to Baikal. Wetsuit did not cover the head and hands. Going into Baikal, I felt how cold the water is in it, ice water. And already when, when I tried to turn on the board, I fell into the icy water, I managed to slip through the thought and fell under the ice. But it turned out we were not in vain, tormented and groaning, in close, hot, fitting sports equipment. Wetsuit coped with his task with a bang !!! An hour, we spent in the water, no one froze, but it was necessary to gather, as the sun was rapidly hiding behind the horizon. Our four-legged travelers fell in love with these open spaces. Nobody limited their movement, they played 6 times and 9 hours in a row. Fatigue manifested itself only after a hearty dinner. We spent the night in the same house, and in the morning a heavy rain came to replace yesterday’s sun. The road turned into sand and mud porridge. It did not upset us in the least, we were expected by a much worse surprise. A low pressure pump, for pumping fuel from an additional tank, ordered to live long. In the main tank, the fuel reserve, according to the flow sensors, is 5 km more than to the nearest gas station. There are no gas stations on Olkhon, and our iron horse is powered exclusively by gasoline. Thanks to the guys from the Moscow branch of ARB, who installed the pump between the bottom of the car and the additional tank itself, which at that time contained 180 liters of gasoline. Repair or at least diagnosis of the pump was not possible in the field. A small remark, it was my first departure after revision at ARB and at that time I did not know all the nuances. Got to the gas station, bought a canister, a shnag-pear and a funnel. We are going to Krestovaya Bay. Visit to Krestovaya Bay, paid, it is in a private farm. The owner, Grigory Anatolyevich Kopylov, met the late guests, pointed the way to the bay itself and took a fee of 100 rubles. The rain was replaced by a hurricane wind, but this did not stop us. Located on the shore of Lake Baikal. The car was placed parallel to the shore, closing the space from the wind to set up a tent. They built a high fireplace, cooked dinner on the fire and tired went to bed. In the morning we were able to appreciate the beauty of the bay. We were located between two heights, and right next to us was a wooden pier. After a good deal of walking around the bay, we went to Irkutsk. Next on our route was a visit to the village of Ust-Barguzin.
In Irkutsk, we were to repair or replace the fuel transfer pump. And here we were lucky, we met Alexander, he was advised to us in ARB Irkutsk (except for the council, they could not help us with anything). Alexander had his own small service station and, having learned about our problem, he actively connected to its solution, bought a new, not expensive, but personally tested pump, switched his mechanics from the repair of the defender to our car. And having inquired about our plans, the fisherman took me to the store to collect for me “Buryat tackle”. I did not expect such a warm relationship and mutual assistance from a stranger. While we were collecting gear, Alexander told us that he returned from an expedition from the 101st winter road a couple of days and drove to the winter Moscow comrades. By the time we collected the tackle, locksmith Alexander, put a new pump and waited for us.
They stopped again with an early start and did not have time for a day ferry across the river. Selenga, I had to look around the clock. As it turned out, the ferry might not be lucky if there are no more people willing. But we were lucky, literally 10 minutes later, after our arrival, a timber truck arrived, which also had to get to the opposite shore. Due to the late start and hitches with the ferry, I had to stop for the night on the lake Kotokel. In the dark we set up camp, at the edge of the forest and hear the crunch of branches, alerted, illuminating the lanterns and saw four huge, reflecting light eyes. It turned out to be two horses, local residents, graze at night. The next morning, started without delay. Arrived in Ust-Barguzin around lunchtime, and immediately decided to find a leshoz or a place where you can buy permission to visit the reserve. Local said that at the very entrance to the reserve, you can arrange all the papers, so we did.
In the reserve, almost on the shores of the lake. Bormashevo turned out to be a lot of old, prepared parking for holidaymakers. They chose a place to spend the night, but decided to drive to the Svyatoy Nos Peninsula to look at the surroundings and then return and set up camp. Driving along the coast of the Barguzinsky Bay, we noticed a lot of signs prohibiting the congress, but very soon, camping sites appeared on the shore. The places are beautiful, on the very shore, but the proximity of the road, although not very busy, did not suit us, we have two of our faithful, four-legged, friends.
From the Burgusinsky Bay, we arrived at the Chivyrkuisky Bay in the village of Monakhovo. We walked along the beach, looked around the area and returned to the place planned for the night, on the shore of Lake Bormashevoe. The park staff, the park staff, were logging firewood, so we had no problems with that. In the morning, looking at the map, we went at a sign to Lake Arangatui. The pointer said that to the lake 16km. Along the way, we met local collectors of cranberries, we clarified whether we were moving in the right direction, received an affirmative answer and continued on our way. The road became worse and worse, the cursor on the navigator showed that we were moving away from the lake, then we were going in the right direction, then we certainly regretted that we didn’t look at the odometer before turning with the 16km indicator. The arrow on the speedometer did not cross the scale of 10 km / h, but we were moving at such a speed for more than two hours, it means either the pointer is lying, or we rotated to the lake, or there was no turning to the lake. The navigator showed that very soon the River Istok should appear in front of us, crawling into Lake Arangatuy, this fact was not at all pleasing. It was decided to turn around and return until it was dark. But it was not so easy to deploy a 5 meter long Kruzak on a narrow path, on both sides of which trees grow, and the dirt under the wheels, but we managed. My co-driver worked at 100. My wife, who is also an excellent co-driver, knows where I can be pulled when ordered to turn the steering wheel, in general knows her business. On the way back, on a normal road, UAZ overtook us. We asked people to stop and we learned that we passed the turn to the lake, if it can be called a turn, there is no road to the lake itself, only a swamp. Although earlier, according to the locals, the road was lined with boards, but fishermen and cranberry pickers used these boards as firewood and now it’s not easy to go to the lake. The fact that we could not have reached the lake in any way was a little reassuring. It means not for nothing that we turned around.
That night, it was decided to spend in the house, in the village of Monakhovo, with a bath. Rented a house, agreed on a bath, wait until they call. Called, we go into the bath, and there, as if, and no one drowned. He opened the furnace, there is not even coal. Although we were promised that the bath will be ready. Firewood is, matches, too, and after 30 minutes in the steam room you can steam with a broom. How good, after a few nights in a tent, relax in the bath. Especially when in the evening on the street +2 +3 degrees heat. Dinner and sleep, tomorrow we will have a way to the Alla River.
In the morning I walked along the walking path near the village, looked around the neighborhood. Reached the village of Katun. Everything is very beautiful, but a bit monotonous. The road from Ust-Burgusin to Burgusin was in a very bad state, it was only started by the grader. I had to move very slowly. On the way there was a very unpleasant story. Seeing Toyota LC200 standing in the oncoming lane, we decided to stop and if we need help. Help turned out to be needed, a puncture wheel, and there is not enough staff jack. But I have a hijack. While still removing the jack from the expeditionary trunk, a curious grandfather (passenger of Toyota LC200) started attacking me with questions, when everything fell out of the hands of his unexpected appearance next to me with questions, it was necessary to understand and either politely ask him to leave and not interfere, in the most extreme case, just send. But I did not do that after which I regretted it very much. We could only lift Kruzak near the tow bar, which we tried to do. But the car began to pull away. And then something happened about which I heard many times, I began to lower the jack and here it is an unbearable grandfather with another question, right from the shoulder, very unexpectedly. As a result, I get the handle of the hi jack on the chin. I think you are the force of the blow. In the eyes of an asterisk, the first thought was a broken jaw. That is what I told my wife standing next to, Vera. Vera, very cold and judiciously asked where are you taking me, Barguzin or will we return to Ust-Barguzin? However, I did not have time to notice how she promptly took out the first-aid kit, cotton, peroxide, and was already beginning to treat my wound. Literally in 15-20 seconds, after asking where to drive, Vera realized that if I spoke so clearly and didn’t cry from pain, it means that my jaw is all right, there was no fracture. Having treated the wound, we take the jack, under the accompanying speech of the grandfather that it is a dangerous jack and continue the path further. I want to remind everyone again: Be extremely careful when working with the rack jack. Now I'm in as a navigator, Faith behind the wheel. Another 40 minutes I scroll through the whole situation in my head and reproach myself for not dropping my grandfather at the very beginning. As they say - after a fight they do not wave their fists.
In rather the Barguzin appeared on the horizon and a gas station at which we replenished our fuel reserves and continued on our way to the Alla River. After Barguzin, the road became better, the asphalt began and we drove faster. Even before sunset, we managed to get to the turn in the direction of Allin thermal springs, near the village of Alla, and stopped at the recreation center. They made a fire, cooked dinner and spent the evening to the sound of the raging mountain river. By that time, about the incident with the jack, I was reminded only of a broken tooth and a wound on my chin.
In the morning we went to the waterfall. Signs said that before the waterfall 3km along the mountain river. Unfortunately, we could not see the waterfall itself. Our four-legged friends, Zakharu and Shakari, found it difficult to wade through a windbreak and huge boulders along the river. In addition, they managed to plunge several times into the waters of the cold river and began to freeze. They are with us everywhere, and maybe someone will say that these are dogs and nothing would happen to them, but we are devoted to them as they are to us. And if we feel that it is difficult for them, even despite the fact that we have not reached the goal, we will turn around and go back. This is our family and we are responsible for them. Returning to the base, having dried out, we went to the forest to pick up mushrooms and just walk. Already towards evening we decided that we didn’t need to stay here and went back to Irkutsk, so that we could continue the trip to the village of Onguren on the northern shore of Baikal the next day. The beautiful Burgusinsky ridge led us back. Overnight in Irkutsk, and in the morning a new start.
Again we are moving towards the island of Olkhon, but now we will look at it from the other side. A good road in the direction of the village Onguren, ends after the village Kurma. Further 90 kilometers of the road on which more than 20 km / h can not go. Of course there are very small areas where we gained 60 km / h, but they are so short that you forget about them in 5 minutes. The road itself is very beautiful, and it may even be good that there is no opportunity to go fast, you can enjoy nature and beautiful sandy capes. But do not forget about the road, which is full of huge stones. The village of Onguren, nothing remarkable, rather we wanted to see the northern coast, as the very fact of visiting it. It was on the road to Onguren that we drove through a completely burnt forest. Previously, I did not encounter larch in nature, and when we broke camp and made a fire, and used small branches of larch as firewood, then I understood why there are so afraid of forest fires here. Larch burns differently, small branches inflame very quickly, thicker, burn long and bark good heat. A firewood made of larch wood looks different. Or maybe it seemed so to me. And now our final night on Lake Baikal. We, each for himself, are summing up. I wanted to explore these places in more detail, but for the first time, it is quite enough. And the fact that we will come back here more than once is certain.
In the morning, we again gather our camp, but everything is different. That is how you feel when the goal of the trip is reached.
 

Robert OB 33/48

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Thank you for the report. Absolutely stunning. And Google translate made it very much a pleasure to read it.
It was a trip on its own. Thumbs up.
I guess it was an amazing trip.
 

NotGumby

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Good stuff - thanks for the trip report. Hope one day to visit there!
 

Robert OB 33/48

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No worries mate,

Iam dutch, my english isnt perfect as well. So, keep them stories coming.
We are planning a trip around the Baltic next year. Not sure if we manage, but the plan is there.
That will be our most eastly trip ever to date.
So if you have any tips, please tell me. Thanks in advance.
 

AdvantureGalley

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No worries mate,

Iam dutch, my english isnt perfect as well. So, keep them stories coming.
We are planning a trip around the Baltic next year. Not sure if we manage, but the plan is there.
That will be our most eastly trip ever to date.
So if you have any tips, please tell me. Thanks in advance.
If you can send at least a approximate track, maybe I can get you something about specific places and difficulties.
 

Robert OB 33/48

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baltic.jpg
It aint Russia, as for Russia we need a visum. So, we skip that part.
Which is a shame as we cant visit ST Petersburg.
But we dont know how much time we have, 3 weeks max.
 
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