(Probably simple) question about rocker switches.

[IronAndRice]

I am wiring in a bunch of different accessories to a Blue Sea Systems 6 Circuit Blade using relays. I will attach a picture of my proposed wiring. MY QUESTION: Can I solder all the rocker switches 12 V wires together (Blue) and then connect all three to the same fuse?
If anyone sees a way I could do something better, I am open to suggestions.

 

[DMS1]

That looks fine, all the relays have their own fuse. The only drawback is if the fuse at the switches blows, all of those accessories wont work until you replace the fuse. You could put a seperate fuse for each switch, but that might be overkill.

 

[IronAndRice]

That looks fine, all the relays have their own fuse. The only drawback is if the fuse at the switches blows, all of those accessories wont work until you replace the fuse. You could put a seperate fuse for each switch, but that might be overkill.

Thanks for the reply Dave. New to all things electrical but I sure am having fun learning!

 

[Sparksalot]

Why are you using a 100amp breaker, but only a 60amp relay? What is your proposed wire size on that feed?

 

[IronAndRice]

Why are you using a 100amp breaker, but only a 60amp relay? What is your proposed wire size on that feed?

I just happened to have a 60 amp relay left over from a different project. The BSS fuse box is rated for 130ish amps I believe so my thinking was to protect the fuse box from a sudden large influx and have a way to quickly shut off power to add more accessories. I am not expecting to ever have more than 27 amps (max draw of the compressor).
I was going to use 4 gauge wire from the battery to the circuit breaker, 8 gauge from the breaker to the relay to the Fuse box and then 14-18 for everything else. I am thinking now however of ordering a 100 Amp relay and wiring it all in 4 gauge wire up until the fuse box.

 

[Sparksalot]

I just happened to have a 60 amp relay left over from a different project. The BSS fuse box is rated for 130ish amps I believe so my thinking was to protect the fuse box from a sudden large influx and have a way to quickly shut off power to add more accessories. I am not expecting to ever have more than 27 amps (max draw of the compressor).
I was going to use 4 gauge wire from the battery to the circuit breaker, 8 gauge from the breaker to the relay to the Fuse box and then 14-18 for everything else. I am thinking now however of ordering a 100 Amp relay and wiring it all in 4 gauge wire up until the fuse box.

How long is the overall length you’re looking at For the #4?

 

[IronAndRice]

How long is the overall length you’re looking at For the #4?

Less than a foot total I am hoping. Gonna mount the fuse box right next to the Battery.

 

[Sparksalot]

Less than a foot total I am hoping. Gonna mount the fuse box right next to the Battery.

Gotcha. If you were running any distance, I’d say use #2, but that should be good.

 

[Sparksalot]

To answer your original question, you should be good for the control power to the relays as you envision it.

 

[slomatt]

As noted above you might want to reduce the main fuse to 60A to protect the relay, or go with a higher capacity relay.

It's not a problem to run all three of the switches off of a single fuse since the relay coils don't draw much current. This is a pretty standard setup. I'd recommend using crimp connectors instead of solder since soldered connections can fail due to the vibrations in automotive use. If you really want to solder the connections then be sure to support the wire on both sides of the joint so it can't flex and work harden.

Personally, I like to have most of my accessories on constant (non-ignition switched) power. This way I can take the keys with me when using the air compressor to air up the tires, or if I want to have lights on when setting up camp. If I have to leave the key in the ignition I worry about accidentally locking it in the car. It also prevents the car from constantly making a dinging sound to warn that the key is in the ignition.

 

[IronAndRice]

As noted above you might want to reduce the main fuse to 60A to protect the relay, or go with a higher capacity relay.

It's not a problem to run all three of the switches off of a single fuse since the relay coils don't draw much current. This is a pretty standard setup. I'd recommend using crimp connectors instead of solder since soldered connections can fail due to the vibrations in automotive use. If you really want to solder the connections then be sure to support the wire on both sides of the joint so it can't flex and work harden.

Personally, I like to have most of my accessories on constant (non-ignition switched) power. This way I can take the keys with me when using the air compressor to air up the tires, or if I want to have lights on when setting up camp. If I have to leave the key in the ignition I worry about accidentally locking it in the car. It also prevents the car from constantly making a dinging sound to warn that the key is in the ignition.

I just read up on soldering automotive wires; I never thought about the vibrations. Guess it is time to get a quality crimping tool.

As far as switched vs non switched, I was worried about the LEDs from all the switches draining my battery while I am away. Is that a problem you've ever had?

 

[slomatt]

I assume the switches have LEDs built into them? Are they always on, or only when the switch is turned on?

 

[IronAndRice]

I assume the switches have LEDs built into them? Are they always on, or only when the switch is turned on?

They have LEDs! That is the reason I wanted a switched fuse, but since the switches are fused what I ended up doing was ditching the relay from circuit breaker to fuse box. Just finished wiring it up this morning. Total mess right now, but once I clean it up I will post some pics. I do a lot of DIY out of an apartment, by myself, with mostly hand tools and youtube. So far I have got homemade roof rack, truck bed drawer system and custom switches/lights, recovery board mounts, and finally what I think is a cool Blue Sea Systems fuse box mounting option for those without options to buy/fabricate.

 

[Sclary3]

I know y'all are talking rocker switches, but has anyone tried those pressure pad switch boards? If so how do you like them?

 

[IronAndRice]

I know y'all are talking rocker switches, but has anyone tried those pressure pad switch boards? If so how do you like them?

Used them extensively in the army back in the day for running dark/IR. They were pretty neat but for my own vehicle I like the "click" if that makes sense haha

 

[M Rose]

Used them extensively in the army back in the day for running dark/IR. They were pretty neat but for my own vehicle I like the "click" if that makes sense haha

And you weren’t the guy having to troubleshoot and repair them when they failed...