Newbie Trailer build. AT-ST

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CHAURY08

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I'm starting my first trailer build. Trailer named AT-ST to go with my AT-AT(2017 OR Tacoma) I'm still new to Overlanding and somewhat new to forums. More or less creep then actually post. A buddy of mine started this build but ended up going to an RV so I ended up getting it for a great deal. He threw in just about all the steel I need to finish it with. A 48" and 36" tractor supply under box. 52" heavy duty slides for the 48" box. Other odds like hinges door latches and a few random things.

Started off as a 5x8 trailer cut down to a 5x6 with a 3500lb axle and axle flip kit. He had about 3" spacers to change the bolt pattern to 6x5.5 which I will be removing and putting on new hubs with the same pattern in a few weeks. The wheels are 16x8 and tires are 265/75r16 which is the same size as my truck.

I also ordered 7 way plug to box, 7 colored 12 gauge wire, tail and marker lights that should be here next week as well.

I have very little to no experience with trailers as well with welding. I have a little Hobart 140 that I plan to practice with and finish the trailer with.

So far all I have done is clean off surface rust. Plan on painting the bottom with POR-15 then run my wiring for my lights.


Any tips and advice would be welcome and appreciated.
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boxtoutside

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Thanks for posting. I'm considering a similar build with bike storage at trailer level and a rack above for a roof top tent.
 
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CHAURY08

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Thanks for posting. I'm considering a similar build with bike storage at trailer level and a rack above for a roof top tent.

Awesome. I have a lot of work to do till mine is near complete. Plan on putting a roll up truck bed topper under the rack to store taller stuff if need be.
 

Rath

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By the looks of it you'll likely still need spacers after switching hubs. Tire clearance is something we to keep in mind!

Good looking starting point though! I kind of wish I could have found something to start with rather than starting from scratch, would have been easier!
 
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CHAURY08

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By the looks of it you'll likely still need spacers after switching hubs. Tire clearance is something we to keep in mind!

Good looking starting point though! I kind of wish I could have found something to start with rather than starting from scratch, would have been easier!
Thanks for the info. I didn't even think of having to worry about the tire rubbing. But if I need spaces at least I should be able to get away without having an extra 3" on each side.

I'm so glad I was able to get this from my buddy. Saved me a lot of time and money but also I'm going to have to fix/redo a few things. Trying to figure it all out with no experience has been quite stressful haha.
 

Rath

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Thanks for the info. I didn't even think of having to worry about the tire rubbing. But if I need spaces at least I should be able to get away without having an extra 3" on each side.

I'm so glad I was able to get this from my buddy. Saved me a lot of time and money but also I'm going to have to fix/redo a few things. Trying to figure it all out with no experience has been quite stressful haha.
just measure how much space is currently between the tire and the trailer, and see how much you can afford to shave off and still have decent clearance and then you should be good.
On my home built trailer I have 2" spacers to clear. 1.5" would have been *just* enough but to be safe, and give myself some room in case in the future I got a different tire brand that was slightly wider, I would be okay.
 
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CHAURY08

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Some goodies showed up today. Still waiting on another set of lights and my wiring kit.
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Lights were a little bigger than expected but found some scrap angle iron to make a housing for them. Just need to cut it down and weld together. I think it should turn out well. 20200507_195318.jpg20200507_195322.jpg20200507_195330.jpg
 

CHAURY08

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Got some time this morning before we hit the road for LBL and wad able to swap hubs. Super easy swap. Hub swap brought my wheel in 2" still has 1½" of clearance. 20200508_113002.jpg20200508_113337.jpg20200508_115701.jpg20200508_121120.jpg20200508_121041.jpg20200508_121100.jpg20200508_121048.jpg20200508_125237.jpg20200508_125231.jpg20200508_130441.jpg
 

CHAURY08

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Few more parts came in today and started grinding down the old angle iron for the tail light housing. Once my por 15 comes in and I get the bottom painted I'm going get the tail lights wired. 20200513_185133.jpg20200513_192807.jpg20200513_193656.jpg
 

PCO6

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CHAURY08 - You should be fine with your Hobart140 with or with gas. I can't offer any specific tips but I started out with something similar with my build (in my signature below). I'm happy to share if it helps in any way. Good luck!
 
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CHAURY08

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CHAURY08 - You should be fine with your Hobart140 with or with gas. I can't offer any specific tips but I started out with something similar with my build (in my signature below). I'm happy to share if it helps in any way. Good luck!

Thanks man. Any help is welcome.
 

Hogman

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I just bought a "square drop" trailer home built. Structurally its 100 percent and way over built, 3500# Timbren axles, 6000# brakes, left over steel from the Titanic for the frame. Things I would design in, which worked perfect by coincidence with mine, would be tongue length. In my opinion you would want it as short as possible while still clearing your truck at 90 degrees or a little more for the tight turn arounds. Center of gravity/ tongue weight would be another area of concern. While tongue weight is vital for proper handling, 10% of trailer weight I've read is standard. For your build, or other similar sized trailers, they seem to come in at around 1000-1500 # some how. So 10% would be 150#. Your truck has a 680 tongue weight limit, if you had to unhook that trailer and spin it around, you would definitely not want a 450 pound tongue weight even though your truck wouldn't care.
 

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CHAURY08

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Got my housing ready for the lights. Plus practiced welding some more. Not sure how I want to mount them. Vertical or horizontal. Vertical will have 2" tubing behind it for m6 rack/supports. Horizontal will hang down about 1/2" lower than bumper area.
 

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CHAURY08

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As long as the weather is decent tomorrow I plan to prep and paint the bottom of the trailer with POR-15 then possible work on wiring the tail lights on Tuesday. Any tips on POR_15 or wiring up lights?
 

Jeep backroads

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I'm starting my first trailer build. Trailer named AT-ST to go with my AT-AT(2017 OR Tacoma) I'm still new to Overlanding and somewhat new to forums. More or less creep then actually post. A buddy of mine started this build but ended up going to an RV so I ended up getting it for a great deal. He threw in just about all the steel I need to finish it with. A 48" and 36" tractor supply under box. 52" heavy duty slides for the 48" box. Other odds like hinges door latches and a few random things.

Started off as a 5x8 trailer cut down to a 5x6 with a 3500lb axle and axle flip kit. He had about 3" spacers to change the bolt pattern to 6x5.5 which I will be removing and putting on new hubs with the same pattern in a few weeks. The wheels are 16x8 and tires are 265/75r16 which is the same size as my truck.

I also ordered 7 way plug to box, 7 colored 12 gauge wire, tail and marker lights that should be here next week as well.

I have very little to no experience with trailers as well with welding. I have a little Hobart 140 that I plan to practice with and finish the trailer with.

So far all I have done is clean off surface rust. Plan on painting the bottom with POR-15 then run my wiring for my lights.


Any tips and advice would be welcome and appreciated.
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Looks great
 
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