This is one of the big reasons I got a D1 3.9 instead of a D2! Same price for the two trucks I was looking at when I got mine.
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2004 Discovery 2 Expo Build
- Thread starter MStudt
- Start date
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Member II
Oh they most certainly do. I wasn't trying to say that the D1's are flawless in any way, besides there is a very good reason that tons of people love the D2's
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Member II
They each have their own issues, but both are great vehicles. Had we known our current plans when purchasing this we would have gone with a D1. We don't see many D2's in the St. Louis area, and D1's even less then that. I keep thinking we'll get a D1 once we're settle back down, but time will tell.
Yeah, there are times when I say to myself that I should have got a D1 mostly because of less computers but then during long trips in reminded why I like the D2... Until of course the electrics inevitably start acting up again.
Member II
We have big things going on right now. A few months ago we decided to bite the bullet, and order a new engine from the UK. So much for not going overboard on this build! The company of choice was Turner Engineering, and they're regarded as one of the best engine re-builders around. After the placing the order with Turner we had the new engine in hand within 14 days.
This is the day the engine arrived.
Next was getting the Rover to a better location to work on it.
Spent a weekend pulling the engine out.
Over the next couple weeks we cleaned parts, re-loomed the engine bay, cleaned up some rust, and put the new engine in.
This is the day the engine arrived.
Next was getting the Rover to a better location to work on it.
Spent a weekend pulling the engine out.
Over the next couple weeks we cleaned parts, re-loomed the engine bay, cleaned up some rust, and put the new engine in.
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Awesome! Inevitably I'll be going down the same road as you, my block is a rebuilt 4.0 with everything else 4.6. runs great for now but I know my time is coming. Keep us posted.We have big things going on right now. A few months ago we decided to bite the bullet, and order a new engine from the UK. So much for not going overboard on this build! The company of choice was Turner Engineering, and they're regarded as one of the best engine re-builders around. After the placing the order with Turner we had the new engine in hand with 14 days.
This is the day the engine arrived.
Next was getting the Rover to a better location to work on it.
Spent a weekend pulling the engine out.
Over the next couple weeks we cleaned parts, re-loomed the engine bay, cleaned up some rust, and put the new engine in.
OB#3799
Pathfinder I
Member III
Just scrolled through this build thread... seriously awesome! Keep up the good work and keep the pictures and updates coming!
Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban
Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban
Member II
We're getting even closer after this past weekend. We have just about everything on the engine now, and we don't have any leftover parts. We're aiming to start the new engine this Saturday. I just purchases Royal Purple break in oil for the first 500 miles, and will most likely stick with Royal Purple after the break in. I have a couple more parts that need to be purchased, and possible a preluber to prime the engine.
Member II
The good news is the engine started on Saturday. The bad news is we pulled the top end off on Sunday.
From the start we had a major ignition issue. The engine started on 4 cylinders, and cylinders 8 6 4 3 we not firing. Cylinders 7 1 looked good while cylinders 2 5 seemed to be running rich. I immediately thought the issue was either miss run plug wires, bad plug wire, bad coil, or we weren't receiving a good signal from the ECU. We swapped coils, and wires hoping there was something wrong with the new ones. Even with using the old parts we still had the same issue.
On Sunday we decided to start testing the ignition. We pull the plugs, and noticed cylinder 8 was full of gas, cylinder 6 had less, cylinder 4 even less, and cylinder 2 looked good. We went ahead, and pulled all the plugs to have a look. We ended up cranking the engine without the plugs to clear the cylinders, and gas shot out of 4 cylinders. After seeing this we drained the oil only to find gas in there, and then we drained the coolant.
We pressure checked the block with 80lbs or air, and all 8 cylinders held. That's good news, and means we don't have to pull the heads. We tested the coils and wires, and they all checked out fine. The old tested the same as the new so that eliminates an issue with the coils or wires. We also tested to make sure they were getting spark, and that checked out too.
The only thing that I messed with was the fuel rail, and injectors. For whatever reason I thought it would be a good idea to rebuild the fuel injectors, and I'm pretty convinced that I may have damaged 1 if not more of the injectors during that process. In addition to that we didn't purge the dry fuel rail, and that may have been a contributor as well. When this Sunday comes around I'm going to install a good used fuel rail with good used injectors, and that "should" fix the issue. We're also going to purge the rail before firing up the engine. With any luck she'll fire up this Sunday.
From the start we had a major ignition issue. The engine started on 4 cylinders, and cylinders 8 6 4 3 we not firing. Cylinders 7 1 looked good while cylinders 2 5 seemed to be running rich. I immediately thought the issue was either miss run plug wires, bad plug wire, bad coil, or we weren't receiving a good signal from the ECU. We swapped coils, and wires hoping there was something wrong with the new ones. Even with using the old parts we still had the same issue.
On Sunday we decided to start testing the ignition. We pull the plugs, and noticed cylinder 8 was full of gas, cylinder 6 had less, cylinder 4 even less, and cylinder 2 looked good. We went ahead, and pulled all the plugs to have a look. We ended up cranking the engine without the plugs to clear the cylinders, and gas shot out of 4 cylinders. After seeing this we drained the oil only to find gas in there, and then we drained the coolant.
We pressure checked the block with 80lbs or air, and all 8 cylinders held. That's good news, and means we don't have to pull the heads. We tested the coils and wires, and they all checked out fine. The old tested the same as the new so that eliminates an issue with the coils or wires. We also tested to make sure they were getting spark, and that checked out too.
The only thing that I messed with was the fuel rail, and injectors. For whatever reason I thought it would be a good idea to rebuild the fuel injectors, and I'm pretty convinced that I may have damaged 1 if not more of the injectors during that process. In addition to that we didn't purge the dry fuel rail, and that may have been a contributor as well. When this Sunday comes around I'm going to install a good used fuel rail with good used injectors, and that "should" fix the issue. We're also going to purge the rail before firing up the engine. With any luck she'll fire up this Sunday.
Member II
We spent some time at the shop this weekend, and got everything figured out. We ended up having 3 injectors that were stuck open, and dumping gas into the cylinders that misfired. After replacing the injectors, and getting the engine put back together it fired right up. After a short drive we noticed a coolant leak, and had to track that down. I came prepared this time, and had my coolant system pressure tester with us. Found the leak quickly, and it only required changing hose clamps.
We treated the 70 mile drive home as part of the break in period, and she did great. Got home with no issues, and no fluid loss. Now it's time to get moving an everything else. Stay tuned for a lot more.
We treated the 70 mile drive home as part of the break in period, and she did great. Got home with no issues, and no fluid loss. Now it's time to get moving an everything else. Stay tuned for a lot more.
Member II
Had a little forward progress this weekend. I was able to install our ARB compressor, and get the winch mounted up.
I decided to put the ARB CKMA12 compressor under the passenger seat. I decided to make small extension to come off the frame I made for the safe. I also added a fixed piece of air line hose to the compressor so I wouldn't have to reach under the seat trying to find the connection. The compressor sits nicely under the seat, and is powered through the BlueSea fuse box that's installed on the platform.
Installing the winch was a pit of a pain. I had to trim some of the grill support to clear the winch, and had to trim the grill some too.
I decided to put the ARB CKMA12 compressor under the passenger seat. I decided to make small extension to come off the frame I made for the safe. I also added a fixed piece of air line hose to the compressor so I wouldn't have to reach under the seat trying to find the connection. The compressor sits nicely under the seat, and is powered through the BlueSea fuse box that's installed on the platform.
Installing the winch was a pit of a pain. I had to trim some of the grill support to clear the winch, and had to trim the grill some too.
Looks good, watch your temp, mine went up almost 10 degrees after adding my winch... blocked too much airflow.Had a little forward progress this weekend. I was able to install our ARB compressor, and get the winch mounted up.
I decided to put the ARB CKMA12 compressor under the passenger seat. I decided to make small extension to come off the frame I made for the safe. I also added a fixed piece of air line hose to the compressor so I wouldn't have to reach under the seat trying to find the connection. The compressor sits nicely under the seat, and is powered through the BlueSea fuse box that's installed on the platform.
Installing the winch was a pit of a pain. I had to trim some of the grill support to clear the winch, and had to trim the grill some too.
OB#3799
Member II
What temps were you running before the winch, and after the winch. We noticed out of no where this past weekend that the temps are getting high. Normal highway driving we saw temps at 217, but would drop back down to 210. We even have the soft spring t-stat too. I also know we have the original fan clutch, and I'm leaning towards replacing that with a Napa server duty clutch.
Sounds just like mine, I swapped out my fan and clutch with a used 1999 Chevy Astro van setup, tight fit but bolts right on, I also added a skid plate/scoop under the bumper to funnel air up to the radiator. My temps stayed well over 200; now with the new fan and scoop, my highway is around 190-194 and below 50mph is 197-200 with or without a/c. Of course it's getting hot out, so I know these temps will creep up over the next few months.
OB#3799
Member II
This is good to know.
I'm going to look into the Astro clutch to see what I can find. I was also considering the Napa Severe Duty clutch which I've read about some people using. I also need to make sure I have all the air out of the system since I'm not 100% convinced it is. I also need to check the t-stat to make sure it's good since they can be bad right out of the box. I have some things to check out, and hopefully this won't be too difficult to track down.
What can you tell me about the skid/scoop you installed? I have a front skid that I haven't installed yet, and don't want to add anything that'll make it hotter.
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Here is the mock up, I left a 1.5in gap below the bumper to force air up to the radiator, effectively replacing the bumper scoop from the factory bumper. I'm still playing with the design, going to drill a few large holes in it this weekend. This helped dramatically at highway speeds.
OB#3799
Member II
Let me know what you come up with on this. Can you get a couple more pictures for me so I can see exactly what this looks like? I'll have to look at my skid to see what can be done to divert air up.
