Mount fridge slide to truck bed or add a truck bed floor?

[davidu]

I’m debating the best way to mount a fridge slide to my f150 truck bed and I’ve seen people rivnut it directly to the truck bed. I’ve also seen people build a floor that’s mounted to the truck bed and then screw things on to that (probably my preference but substantially more work).

i know both can work but am curious about what pros and cons people have observed based on whatever choice you made?

I guess I’m mostly interested in the cons of mounting a floor to the truck bed and attaching to that since, other than the effort, it feels like mostly all “pros.”

Thanks!

 

[Road]

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If your truck bed is always covered by a cap or shell, I wouldn't hesitate to cover the whole thing with a good grade of birch ply and use that to mount the fridge slide. Especially if you use the space for sleeping in when on the road.

I did my van floor like that around eight years ago, screwed right through the factory vinyl/rubber matting into the metal floor with flat-head self tappers (countersunk the ply first). Double check underneath to make sure where wiring and any lines are.

Then a few coats of Minwax Polycrylic (not regular poly), sanded and tack clothed in between coats. Gives you a good, smooth, extremely durable hard finish that easy on bare feet but impervious to moisture and wear. Super easy to sweep and keep clean.

It's exceeded all my expectations and lasted really well for almost a decade. I did the side cupboards the same way. I've used it for everything from photography projects to carpentry and painting to hauling cargo cross-country (hence the e-track in the floor), to living out of when adventuring.

I had a DFG fridge slide I was going to screw right down through this ply, then changed my interior plans.
You might want to put at least the two most rear attachments all the way through the floor with bolts and nuts for the most rugged installation against the leverage a full fridge will give when fully extended.

The point is, I haven't found any cons with my birch ply floor. Easy to do, really, if handy with a circular saw and a drill. It's durable, long lasting, and will serve you well.


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[davidu]

The E track looks great. I was thinking of recessing some E or L track if I do this. I was going to do 3/4" Ply or even Zip System sheeting since it's already weather treated and then just apply something like a Raptor Coating paint spray over it (1 US Quart Raptor Kit) but I sort of like your "wood floor" finish better. I do have a cover but it's still a truck bed, so may end up doing something much more weatherproof that has a thick coating.

Glad there are no cons and great pics. That floor looks great and has served you well!

 

[Road]

The E track looks great. I was thinking of recessing some E or L track if I do this. I was going to do 3/4" Ply or even Zip System sheeting since it's already weather treated and then just apply something like a Raptor Coating paint spray over it (1 US Quart Raptor Kit) but I sort of like your "wood floor" finish better. I do have a cover but it's still a truck bed, so may end up doing something much more weatherproof that has a thick coating.

Glad there are no cons and great pics. That floor looks great and has served you well!

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Hey David, thanks.

I've found that truck bed lining, depending on amount of grit (some brands allow adding more or less) can be rough on the bottoms of cases and containers, as well as be a bit coarse for bare feet if using the space for adventuring. I have it in my trailer bed and often wish I didn't. I put down a large piece of cardboard or strips of 1/4" ply in the trailer to go under some items so they're not scoured continuously by the grit when sliding gear in and out all the time.

As for ply thickness, I've found 3/4" isn't necessary unless needed to span across a wide opening. Though for a floor, because it is laying fully supported by the truck bed, you can use 1/2" or even 3/8". Mine is actually 12mm, or 0.476".

Also, if installing e-track or other track in your floor, and recess it like mine, keeping the thickness of the ply to the same height of the track will help the ply last much longer, and let gear slide anywhere a lot easier. Otherwise, gear will catch and stick at the raised edges of the ply and it will splinter and fray prematurely along the lengths of the track.


Indoor outdoor mat pulled back to show 12mm (0.476") thickness of ply and e-track. Being as close in height as possible prevents a lot of problems. This is the leading edge at the rear doors; not too shabby for having been installed and subject to weather and shoving things in and out for over eight years.

Though for years I had e-track going sideways at the rear doors and again at the other end of the 8' long pieces, to provide more strap anchoring points. I have since removed the cross pieces. The track at the rear doors also helped protect the edge of the ply from pallet and fork lifts.


E-track crossways at the rear doors

Also, if using 3/4" ply, the deeper recessed track will be uncomfortable under foot and make for an uneven surface if you lay an indoor-outdoor mat over it for use as living quarters:


Summer 2019 after an 8 month adventure.

Both sides and floor, coated with Satin Polycrylic, have held up extremely well. A good rugged indoor/outdoor mat has proven to be a perfect solution for my style of adventuring. It provides an easy to clean, easy to remove, and very comfortable surface.

I always bought my cargo control gear from Lodi Metals in Bellville OH and would stop in when going through that part of the country. They have a wide selection of e-track rails in various lengths, both horizontal and vertical, airline style L track, and have a ton of ratchet strap options. Great folks.

US Cargo Control, now in Urbana IA, has a wide array of cargo gear, too. You see their name all over straps etc.

I used to have regular exterior ply as a floor in the van, and over time saw it was okay for use as a work truck, but not for adventuring, as it's just too rough and splintery. Since going to the much smoother and higher-quality 12mm birch, with two or three coats of Satin Polycrylic (sanded and tack clothed in between coats), I couldn't be more pleased. I thought I'd have to sand and give it another coat every year or two, but have never had to.


2012, with ext ply, before I switched to 12mm birch ply.

If the price of birch ply stay somewhat reasonable, though, I'm redoing the entire interior of the van, with my low side cabinets a bit taller; some counter cabinets for sink and more storage; and better places to contain my cases, containers along the floor, and tripods and fishing poles in longer shallow shelving. All removable back down to just the lower side cabinets so I can still haul pallets or loads of full-sized sheet goods and other lumber when helping folks with off-grid solutions. I have 12' of floor from rear doors to back of the seats.

Hope you find a solution that works just right.
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[davidu]

This is an incredibly detailed and helpful answer. Wow. I feel like I just saved multiple “learn the hard way” lessons. Thank you!

.
Hey David, thanks.

I've found that truck bed lining, depending on amount of grit (some brands allow adding more or less) can be rough on the bottoms of cases and containers, as well as be a bit coarse for bare feet if using the space for adventuring. I have it in my trailer bed and often wish I didn't. I put down a large piece of cardboard or strips of 1/4" ply in the trailer to go under some items so they're not scoured continuously by the grit when sliding gear in and out all the time.

As for ply thickness, I've found 3/4" isn't necessary unless needed to span across a wide opening. Though for a floor, because it is laying fully supported by the truck bed, you can use 1/2" or even 3/8". Mine is actually 12mm, or 0.476".

Also, if installing e-track or other track in your floor, and recess it like mine, keeping the thickness of the ply to the same height of the track will help the ply last much longer, and let is slide anywhere a lot easier. Otherwise, gear will catch and stick at edges of the ply, and it will splinter and fray prematurely along the lengths of the track.

View attachment 200733
Indoor outdoor mat pulled back to show 12mm (0.476") thickness of ply and e-track. Being as close in height as possible prevents a lot of problems. This is the leading edge at the rear doors; not too shabby for having been installed and subject to weather and shoving things in and out for over eight years.

Though for years I had e-track going sideways at the rear doors and again at the other end of the 8' long pieces, to provide more strap anchoring points. I have since removed the cross pieces. The track at the rear doors also helped protect the edge of the ply from pallet and fork lifts.

View attachment 200736
E-track crossways at the rear doors

Also, if using 3/4" ply, the deeper recessed track will be uncomfortable under foot and make for an uneven surface if you lay an indoor-outdoor mat over it for use as living quarters:

View attachment 200735
Summer 2019 after an 8 month adventure. Both sides and floor, coated with Satin Polycrylic, have held up extremely well. A good rugged indoor/outdoor mat has proven to be a perfect solution for my style of adventuring. It provides an easy to clean, easy to remove, and very comfortable surface.

I always bought my cargo control gear from Lodi Metals in Bellville OH and would stop in when going through that part of the country. They have a wide selection of e-track rails in various lengths, both horizontal and vertical, airline style L track, and have a ton of ratchet strap options. Great folks.

US Cargo Control, now in Urbana IA, has a wide array of cargo gear, too. You see their name all over straps etc.

I used to have regular exterior ply as a floor in the van, and over time saw it was okay for use as a work truck, but not for adventuring, as it's just too rough and splintery. Since going to the much smoother and higher-quality 12mm birch, with two or three coats of Satin Polycrylic (sanded and tack clothed in between coats), I couldn't be more pleased. I thought I'd have to sand and give it another coat every year or two, but have never had to.

View attachment 200734
2012, with ext ply, before I switched to 12mm birch ply.

If the price of birch ply stay somewhat reasonable, though, I'm redoing the entire interior of the van, with lower side cabinets a bit taller; some counter cabinets for sink and more storage; and better places to contain my cases, containers, tripods and fishing poles. All removable back down to just the lower side cabinets so I can still haul pallets or loads of full-sized sheet goods and other lumber when helping folks with off-grid solutions. I have 12' of floor from rear doors to back of the seats.

Hope you find a solution that works just right.
.

 

[JBear223]

I’m looking to mount a fridge on a slide as well in my F150. it’s a newer one with the aluminum bed. Probably shouldn’t just screw the wood floor through the aluminum.
What would you guys recommend for this situation?
Also, would you leave the corners uncovered? Or add a piece of plywood to fit?
I’d like to add a battery in one of the front corners in some kind of fixed container.

 

[leeloo]

You make a plywood box to encase the slide + fridge. Slide tray is bolted to the bottom of the box. Fridge is anchored to the slide, like it would be anyway.
Said box you anchor with straps on what ever anchor points you have. As far as I know you can add plenty of those in a F150.
Like this you can store things on top of the fridge as well.
Nothing is permanent but secure enough, practical and flexible. You can move easy the location ( maybe in time you want to change the position, or to balance the weight better, whatever ) When you come back from the trip, you undo a few straps, remove the box with the fridge and you are back to the original condition of the truck - no harm done