M1102 Trailer Build

  • HTML tutorial

DzrtShamrock

Rank V
Member
Supporter +

Pathfinder III

1,876
Colorado Springs, Colorado, USA
First Name
Kyle
Last Name
Betts
Member #

13310

Ham Callsign
KF0AWV
Well I tried to satiate my desire to add a 270 Degree awning with the Smittybilt but it just wasn't cutting it. Pulled the trigger on an OVS awning and I was extremely impressed with the build quality. The provided mounts were phenomenally manufactured but just wouldn't work for my bizarre application (Que Plasma Cutting sounds).

I've had two end cuts of 1/4" thick hot rolled steel sitting around for a few years, always just too small to use but fortunately just the right size for these mounts. I was a bit impatient and couldn't wait for my BK01 powdercoat to arrive, so the mounts got the metal flake treatment.

View attachment 228746 View attachment 228747

I stuck with the U-Bolt mounting system of the old awning which worked out great. Overall the system is solid and I don't feel the need to add a third support in the middle:

View attachment 228750

Overall it sticks out an additional 4" compared to the Smittybilt but considering the amount of coverage it's well worth it. Very impressed with both the build quality of the awning and the included components. They provide plenty of guide ropes, additional poles, and stakes for windy conditions.

View attachment 228749

View attachment 228748

Next up is relocating the spare tire, I purchased a winch but to mount the tire properly I'll need to pick up some additional 1" SQ tubing and weld a frame together. The electrical subsystem is also up next, all of the components have been sitting patiently for me to finally install them. I might take this opportunity to remove all of the tool boxes and make touch up the paint in a few spots first.
Man that thing is looking great! How much space do you have inside the trailer between the tool boxes? I’ve got a lot of catching up to do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Phillysteak

Phillysteak

Rank IV
Member
Adventure

Enthusiast III

1,116
Arizona
First Name
Philip
Last Name
Haasnoot
Member #

24385

@DzrtShamrock right now the "cargo" bay measures 46" wide between the boxes (48" Wide in-between the tool box support frames), 5.5' Long (I'll gain about 18 more inches once the tire is relocated), and 40" Tall. On our last camping trip we had a camping mattress in the bed sleeping two adults and a German shepherd so there is plenty of space in there for extra sleeping space in good weather. I can still fill 4x8 sheet goods with the tailgate down. It will also fit large reclining sofas if the need arises as I found out a few months ago.

@OcoeeG Having access to a plasma certainly saved me a bunch of cash on this project, I couldn't imagine hand cutting all of the brackets and mounts.

@TahoePPV haha certainly words to live by! But having the camera on the highway certainly makes for a nice rear-view mirror replacement. No matter how fast I pull this trailer up out of the Phoenix valley inevitably I'll have a small roadster up my rear trying to pass at the first opportunity.
 

Contributor III

124
Raleigh, NC, USA
First Name
Kirk
Last Name
Main
Just registered to come by and tell you how awesome this is! I just picked up my M1102 and am doing a similar project. Loving your solenoid lockout idea, curious if you did anything for wheels/tires/axle? I'd like to match it to my 2018 JLUR but can't find any hub conversions and don't really want to replace the axle. Brand new to all this so would love any insight you can offer (as I read through this entire post again)
 

Phillysteak

Rank IV
Member
Adventure

Enthusiast III

1,116
Arizona
First Name
Philip
Last Name
Haasnoot
Member #

24385

@MutinyOffroadAdventures Howdy and welcome! I appreciate your praise on this project, I've been learning as I go and honestly it can be a bit tricky to find information pertaining to the M1101/M1102 trailer components.

I'm pretty limited on lift/tire/spring options on my WK2 so I started there and lifted the vehicle 2.5", pintle hook on a riser, and I'm working on fitting airbags into the rear coil springs. All of that to try and keep the 37" standard tires on the M1102, and it's still not level. Discount Tire won't touch the military rims which is a problem here in Arizona, because of that I am most likely going to reduce the tire to a 33-34". Allegedly Chevy Silverado 2500 rims will fit (8 lug on 6.5" Center) and I have been keeping an eye on my local classifieds for a set. I've made temporary peace with the thought of having different hole patterns on the Jeep and Trailer, considering the trailer has a spare and the Jeep is going to get a hitch mounted swing for a spare of it's own; But I get wanting to have both the same and that was my original thought. Hopefully relocating the military spare under the M1102 shifts the CG enough so I don't have to replace the rims/tires yet.

If you want to have both front/rear tires with the same hole pattern you are going to have to either machine an adapter, or purchase one if you can find it; Keep in mind you'll have to cut down the existing studs to fit the adapter which means no going back (Without replacing all of the studs).

My top tips for starting out:
1 - User Manual: Shutt won't give it to you directly, but it's important to save a copy for lubrication requirements and brake service. Do a google search for " TM 9-2330-392-13&P " and you'll find a few websites that you can download the manual from (For Free).

2 - Grease your bearings, no one on earth knows how old that grease is or how many miles your trailer has been dragged around. I would also check the bearings while the trailer is up on a jack to make sure they spin freely. You can actually jack up both tires off the ground with the rear supports and front wheel if you don't have a jack handy.

3 - Make sure your tire pressure is set correctly, mine were set at 30 PSI when I bought the trailer; They should be at 17 PSI.
 

Contributor III

124
Raleigh, NC, USA
First Name
Kirk
Last Name
Main
@MutinyOffroadAdventures Howdy and welcome! I appreciate your praise on this project, I've been learning as I go and honestly it can be a bit tricky to find information pertaining to the M1101/M1102 trailer components.

I'm pretty limited on lift/tire/spring options on my WK2 so I started there and lifted the vehicle 2.5", pintle hook on a riser, and I'm working on fitting airbags into the rear coil springs. All of that to try and keep the 37" standard tires on the M1102, and it's still not level. Discount Tire won't touch the military rims which is a problem here in Arizona, because of that I am most likely going to reduce the tire to a 33-34". Allegedly Chevy Silverado 2500 rims will fit (8 lug on 6.5" Center) and I have been keeping an eye on my local classifieds for a set. I've made temporary peace with the thought of having different hole patterns on the Jeep and Trailer, considering the trailer has a spare and the Jeep is going to get a hitch mounted swing for a spare of it's own; But I get wanting to have both the same and that was my original thought. Hopefully relocating the military spare under the M1102 shifts the CG enough so I don't have to replace the rims/tires yet.

If you want to have both front/rear tires with the same hole pattern you are going to have to either machine an adapter, or purchase one if you can find it; Keep in mind you'll have to cut down the existing studs to fit the adapter which means no going back (Without replacing all of the studs).

My top tips for starting out:
1 - User Manual: Shutt won't give it to you directly, but it's important to save a copy for lubrication requirements and brake service. Do a google search for " TM 9-2330-392-13&P " and you'll find a few websites that you can download the manual from (For Free).

2 - Grease your bearings, no one on earth knows how old that grease is or how many miles your trailer has been dragged around. I would also check the bearings while the trailer is up on a jack to make sure they spin freely. You can actually jack up both tires off the ground with the rear supports and front wheel if you don't have a jack handy.

3 - Make sure your tire pressure is set correctly, mine were set at 30 PSI when I bought the trailer; They should be at 17 PSI.
Thank you sir! Very helpful. Can you give any more insight into your battery DIY design? On tires and wheels, yeah I get that. I'm going to go with some 8x6.5 wheels and put probably 33"s on it.
 

Phillysteak

Rank IV
Member
Adventure

Enthusiast III

1,116
Arizona
First Name
Philip
Last Name
Haasnoot
Member #

24385

@MutinyOffroadAdventures I did a build log on the portable Battery setup here if you want to see what is under the hood: Rugged Solar Generator 2.5kW

Once I get the spare tire winch finished this week I'm going to start on the trailer mounted electrical setup so I'll have some documentation on that part of the build in the next few weeks.
 

Phillysteak

Rank IV
Member
Adventure

Enthusiast III

1,116
Arizona
First Name
Philip
Last Name
Haasnoot
Member #

24385

Tried to make the most out of what could be the last 85 degree weekend for a while and remount the spare tire. I relocated the triplet rear indicator lights to give the spare some room on either side, I just didn't feel right about having the tire pressing on the wiring harness. Just had to grind off the heads of four rivets holding it on and transfer the hole pattern to the rear. I'm planning to add some D-rings for the Y-strap spare tire harness just as an added precaution and to keep the tire from shifting off-road.

20220517_191150.jpg

I have a cross member welded up to give the tire a second flat bar to rest against, it's quite stable for now but I can see the 1/4" thick L-Channel damaging the tire off road. Instead of purchasing the Lippert extension for the winch I ended up sourcing a 3/8" drive socket extension and modifying it to fit. Just plug a ratchet into the extension or a drill with an adapter and off you go:

20220517_185459.jpg

I took some dimensions and might have the space to mount a 15 gallon water tank underneath as well, finding a tank the correct size is proving difficult so I might have to break out the TIG welder and fab a custom aluminum tank. If I end up doing that I can at least add some internal baffles.
 

TahoePPV

Rank VI
Member

Influencer III

4,312
Buda, TX, USA
First Name
Rex
Last Name
Drake
Member #

19540

Ham Callsign
KI5GH
Service Branch
Air Force
Tried to make the most out of what could be the last 85 degree weekend for a while and remount the spare tire. I relocated the triplet rear indicator lights to give the spare some room on either side, I just didn't feel right about having the tire pressing on the wiring harness. Just had to grind off the heads of four rivets holding it on and transfer the hole pattern to the rear. I'm planning to add some D-rings for the Y-strap spare tire harness just as an added precaution and to keep the tire from shifting off-road.

View attachment 231239

I have a cross member welded up to give the tire a second flat bar to rest against, it's quite stable for now but I can see the 1/4" thick L-Channel damaging the tire off road. Instead of purchasing the Lippert extension for the winch I ended up sourcing a 3/8" drive socket extension and modifying it to fit. Just plug a ratchet into the extension or a drill with an adapter and off you go:

View attachment 231241

I took some dimensions and might have the space to mount a 15 gallon water tank underneath as well, finding a tank the correct size is proving difficult so I might have to break out the TIG welder and fab a custom aluminum tank. If I end up doing that I can at least add some internal baffles.
Have you looked into marine suppliers for a water tank. When I built my teardrop, I ended up with way more boat parts than anything else on it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Phillysteak