Thanks Dave,Personally Im looking at good quality rotors, and ceramic pads next go round, which will be soon. Ive got 100 Series pads on now, but that just improves lifespan, not braking power.
I principle I agree here, however in practice, were talking about a truck which is several thousand pounds heavier than the average automobile, so it automatically qualifies as a heavier duty application, the primary cause of brake fade is heat build up. The slots and/or holes are indeed to enhance cooling, as well as ventilate built up gasses around the pad surface. Heat is heat, it doesnt matter if its generated by hi speed driving, or constant application of the brakes due to elevation changes (read as "descending"). The average user in city or suburban driving may never see fade conditions, but haul this big ol girl up and down some mountain passes, loaded with gear and you're pushing well into the "High performance driving" conditions such things were designed for. In the real world, I doubt the rotors make much difference honestly, but I believe Power Stop and some of the other reputable after market makers to be at least the same quality as OEM.Your best bet will be with the pads. Drilled and slotted rotors are for ventilating and cooling, they are more suited for high performance driving. You might look at the Wilwood MC or a Tacoma swap. Here is the link for a form Expedition Portal talking about the swap. http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/146423-FJ80-Brake-Master-vs-Tacoma-Brake-Master
Thanks for explaining :)Mellowdave - I can't argue your point when you talk about mountain passes at highway speeds. A slotted and drilled rotor could help reduce brake fade in those conditions, and they are the easy upgrade as long as they are quility parts. In town it's more about space management, keep three seconds between you and the car infront of you reguardless of speed. (Safety Manager/Driver trainger coming out in me)
Shoredreamer also brought up a good point about changing the break fluid. Especially on some of our more experianced vehicles. Break fluid is hydroscopic, which means it attacts water, and that will severly impact your braking performace. Brake systems are not sealed, they all have a vent in the master cylinder and the water is absorbed through the air. As the water percentage increases the boiling point on the brake fluid is reduces which causes the bubbles to develope in the system and you loose braking force.
Agreed, I am going with stainless on mine, but honestly, many times over its been proven that with well maintained rubber lines, the performance is the same. Im just showy like that.Oh I should have pointed out that the rubber brake lines should be one of the first things replaced on an older vehicle as well, because they will swell like a balloon and again cause a loss of braking force. It usually will show itself in pulling during breaking on the front axle but the rear brakes on a solid axle usually have the rubber line from the main line then it splits to each brake so you will just loose rear brakes.