Electric Winch vs Hi-Lift Winching Kit?

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Lindenwood

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I posted this in an old thread of mine, but I thought I'd make it into its own thread.

First, I think it is fair to articulate some of the pros and cons of the hi-lift winching kit vs an electric winch:

Hi-lift
-Pros:
1) If you already have a hi-lift, it only takes a modest amount of extra gear (as little as perhaps 25 pounds) to make it winch capable.
2) Requires only $75-200 to buy or build a kit.
3) Easier to winch in multiple directions (including backwards) with the hi-lift.
4) Doesnt have to stay on the vehicle for daily drivers who dont want an extra 100+ lbs on their vehicle.

Cons:
1) It can be physically demanding.
2) It is much slower than an electric winch.
3) It is arguably less safe--or, perhaps, less dummy-proof--than an electric winch.
4) You'll spend an extra several minutes setting a land anchor, if you need to go that route.

Electric Winch:
Pros:
1) Convenient and quick for casual recoveries without requiring another capable vehicle.
2) Provides an opportunity to apply a large amount of force without some arguable dangers of using the kinetic energy of another vehicle + snatch strap.

Cons:
1) Can be expensive (especially if it is the sole reason for an aftermarket bumper).
2) Difficult to pull other than from the front.



Anyways,

I got a chance to do a basic comparison test between winching with the hi-lift and winching with an actual winch.

Bottom Line Up Front:
Including setup and tear-down, I spent 13 minutes with the hi-lift recovery versus about 4.5-5 minutes with the winch

I backed my vehicle over the steep side of a creek to simulate being stuck (though, I am honestly not sure Id have been able to climb out on my own with my current open diffs, heh). Then, I winched myself out both with my hi-lift, and with a single-line pull from my Smitty.

It took two complete runs of the hi-lift mechanism up the beam to ensure I was fully out of the creek.

Finding 1: The setup and tear-down of the jack winching kit adds about 3 or 4 total minutes to the actual recovery process (removing the jack and chains, assembling the kit, then putting it all back in place), versus about 60-90 seconds to pull out the winch remote and unspool the cable. This does not count setting up the anchor end.

Finding 2: The actual winching process took less than 1 minute for the Smitty, vs about 6 for the hi-lift. This checks with an estimated 12-14 FPM for the winch with a middle-weight load, and about 1.5-2fpm for the hi-lift.

Finding 3: Yes, winching with a hi-lift is pretty hard work! I do have a 25'x3/8 synthetic winch extension line coming tomorrow so that I could use it with my snatch block and the jack. This would theoretically allow me to winch up to 12 ft with half the bodily strain, but would require a good bit of care in rigging to put everything in the right place. Of note, understanding how the jack works, I did not need to be or feel like I was in a position where I could have been hurt by the handle (I find it much easier to get into such a potentially-dangerous position while vertically lifting a vehicle).

Conclusion: Inconclusive, for me at least. For just goin' out a'wheelin', the winch seems to add a lot of convenience when you are deliberately attacking obstacles. However, I will say, every time I have used it in the last couple weeks since the install, (twice to rescue a friend and once to drag a fallen tree off the trail), I could have just as easily, [more] quickly, and safely used my snatch straps and winch extensions. Thus, if one is conservative enough when wheeling to not do hard obstacles alone, then I still think one could get by with a decent set of recovery straps and a hi-lift winching kit.

I guess, really, now owning and having compared the two options, I still wouldnt place the electric winch any higher on my list of priorities. And, honestly, I am still debating whether to keep it on there at all (mostly because the line got a nice kink on the 2nd wrap during its 2nd recovery, which means I need to replace the line). Part of me is honestly interested in selling it to put toward a Pull-Pal.

Also of note, I really wish Id have used 5/16 chain instead of 3/8 chain. It is a joke how much people stress about working load limit on shackles and chains, but then use a 5/16 steel cable with a real WLL of about 2500lbs just because its breaking strength is usually around 10k (and thus technically higher than the winch motor!...). Anyways, 5/16 G70 chain has a WLL of over 4500lb, and a minimum breaking strength of almost 19,000 lbs. So yeah, Id have been totally fine with 5/16 chain, especially since I dont use it for vehicle-to-vehicle recoveries. It would then take up a bit less storage space and weigh 15lbs less than my current 3/8 chain (a bigger deal when hailing it out of a stuck vehicle).

Picture is about half way through the hi-lift recovery. Both times, I started with the gas tank skid touching the edge of the bank and the rear bumper partially submerged.
20180315_101652-800x600.jpg
 
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Captain Chaos

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Back in the days before I could afford a winch, I used a Hi-Lift to get out of many mishaps. I’m talking rerigging the jack multiple times to get out. Some of those pulls would take hours to get out. I carry a Hi-Lift still, but I have a Warn on the front bumper.
Now, winch prices are considerably more reasonable, a Smittybilt can be had for under $300 new. I have seen those winches on Craigslist for $150 in like new condition. A Hi-Lift is around $75 for the jack, and $70 for the winch kit.
 

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Of course. I have a Smitty, and it works well enough. Most folks, however, require an aftermarket front bumper, as well.

Back in the day, wheeling around with my Samurai, it was a couple months of saving before I could afford to splurge $60 (with a coupon) for a 3000lb Winch from HF, and then a couple months more before I could get a snatch block and a recovery strap. Needless to say, I got pretty used to sitting around waiting for help, or digging myself out with a shovel. Funny enough, even then, I never successfully self-recovered with just the winch, heh.
 
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Lindenwood

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FWIW, I thought about it some more, and I'm keeping the winch. My back is still a little sore from that day :P .

I am about to order a synthetic line to replaced my kinked cable. I am also seriously considering moving to 1/4" Grade 70 chain, as it is still stronger (12,600lb breaking strength) than the winch line most of us have, and would both save a lot of space and save about 30lbs. I wouldnt consider it as a primary recovery option, or for any vehicle-to-vehicle pulls. But, as a backup winching / tensioning option I think it makes a lot of sense to go 1/4".
 
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I have always had both and have used both and will continue to cary both. I like how you did this do you mind if I use this information for similar discussions during meet ups?
 

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I have always had both and have used both and will continue to cary both. I like how you did this do you mind if I use this information for similar discussions during meet ups?
Good sir, of course you may use or reference it as you desire! I am pleased the information is useful enough for someone to want to cite it at all :) .
 
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... I am also seriously considering moving to 1/4" Grade 70 chain, as it is still stronger (12,600lb breaking strength) than the winch line most of us have, and would both save a lot of space and save about 30lbs. I wouldnt consider it as a primary recovery option, or for any vehicle-to-vehicle pulls. But, as a backup winching / tensioning option I think it makes a lot of sense to go 1/4".
That looks like a fun test you performed! I'd always opt for the electric winch over the Hi-Lift unless it's to do a reverse out winching operation.

Some of your numbers for the Hi-Lift are a little off.

When lifting/lowering a load, the jack's WLL is 4,660 lbs.
If you have a 60", the last 12" at the top are reduced to 2,660 lbs.
When winching, the WLL is 5,000 lbs.
The shear bolt is rated to 7,000 lbs. and designed to break at that point.

I am concerned about your comment of wanting to switch to 1/4" chain because of its breaking strength being higher than the rating of the winch. This is not how you calculate the size of equipment you should purchase. The MBS (Minimum Breaking Strength) of any piece of equipment is when it will totally fail. Leading up to that point, there is degradation in limit capacities and why you also need to know the Design or Safety Factor rating. This is expressed as a ratio (example 5:1), and needs to be known if you're going by the MBS.

WLL = MBS / Design Factor

The Design Factor for chain is 4:1. So your 1/4" works out to this.

3,150 (WLL) = 12,600 (MBS) / 4 (Design Factor)

That's almost 1/3 (1,510 lbs.) less than the Hi-Lift's capacity and your chain is now the weakest link in your setup.

Working up to the WLL on any piece of equipment means it is designed to handle the task without any risk of losing capacity, deforming or breaking. While the Hi-Lift may not put that much load on your chain or line, your winch can. Why carry chain if it can only safely be used with the Hi-Lift? Stick with 3/8" G70 transit chain and you'll be fine.

For winchlines, I don't recommend 5/16" steel cable for any winch, 3/8" should be the standard. When it comes to synthetic, 5/16" is stronger than 3/8" steel. But for the money you're spending on Dyneema, you might as well just bump it up to 3/8" for that extra capacity. You can get a little more wear on a 3/8" rope than 5/16" and hopefully keep it in service longer.
 
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Lindenwood

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That looks like a fun test you performed! I'd always opt for the electric winch over the Hi-Lift unless it's to do a reverse out winching operation.

Some of your numbers for the Hi-Lift are a little off.

When lifting/lowering a load, the jack's WLL is 4,660 lbs.
If you have a 60", the last 12" at the top are reduced to 2,660 lbs.
When winching, the WLL is 5,000 lbs.
The shear bolt is rated to 7,000 lbs. and designed to break at that point.

I am concerned about your comment of wanting to switch to 1/4" chain because of its breaking strength being higher than the rating of the winch. This is not how you calculate the size of equipment you should purchase. The MBS (Minimum Breaking Strength) of any piece of equipment is when it will totally fail. Leading up to that point, there is degradation in limit capacities and why you also need to know the Design or Safety Factor rating. This is expressed as a ratio (example 5:1), and needs to be known if you're going by the MBS.

WLL = MBS / Design Factor

The Design Factor for chain is 4:1. So your 1/4" works out to this.

3,150 (WLL) = 12,600 (MBS) / 4 (Design Factor)

That's almost 1/3 (1,510 lbs.) less than the Hi-Lift's capacity and your chain is now the weakest link in your setup.

Working up to the WLL on any piece of equipment means it is designed to handle the task without any risk of losing capacity, deforming or breaking. While the Hi-Lift may not put that much load on your chain or line, your winch can. Why carry chain if it can only safely be used with the Hi-Lift? Stick with 3/8" G70 transit chain and you'll be fine.

For winchlines, I don't recommend 5/16" steel cable for any winch, 3/8" should be the standard. When it comes to synthetic, 5/16" is stronger than 3/8" steel. But for the money you're spending on Dyneema, you might as well just bump it up to 3/8" for that extra capacity. You can get a little more wear on a 3/8" rope than 5/16" and hopefully keep it in service longer.
Thanks for the correction on the shear bolt strength! As to the weight limit of the last 12", that refers to lifting loads that apply compression to the main beam in its entirety. Winching does not apply this compressive load, and thus there is no reason that limitation for the last foot applies to winching.

I do understand the safety factors built into these types of equipment. However, the WLL is technically arbitrary, and not actually indicative of any specific level of stress or fatigue. Still, you are right that 1/4" chain is maybe cutting things a bit close for a lot of folks (and I wouldnt consider it if I wasnt keeping my winch). Grade 70 chain is made of heat-treated 1022 steel, which should have a yield strength (the point where it just starts to deform) of about 60% of its ultimate tensile strength. Being rated at 12,600 lbs MBS, that gives about 7,560lbs before any permanent deformation starts to occur (and still 12,600 before it actually breaks). That does make it potentially tougher than the hi-lift itself, but only marginally. That said, the hi-lift manual states that it takes 177lbs of force on the handle to generate 4660lbs through the mechanism. Thus, it would actually take 285lbs of force on the handle to approach this yield strength of the chain. While there was a time where I was lifting that much on a regular basis, I am certain I couldnt get close now :P .

More realistically, for any really hard hi-lift pulls, I'd use the snatch block to limit the strain on the entire system past the tree strap. The main risk, really, is that during a really hard pull I could potentially have the vehicle shift, placing a large shock load on the entire rigging. Though, not only does that risk apply, and must be mitigated, no matter what the recovery mechanism, but there is still a greater safety factor with the 1/4 chain than with the standard 5/16 winch cables.

As to using it as an eextension or directly between vehicles, I would be totally fine not using my 20' of chain when I already carry 130 ft of synthetic recovery straps that are not only stronger, but safer.

Lastly, while I don't necessarily disagree with you about winches probably needing 3/8 cable, most winches do in fact come with 5/16 cable. And, like I said, it has a WLL far, far less than the safety factor most folks like to tout for the rest of their equipment.

Good discussion :) .
 
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Thanks for the correction on the shear bolt strength! As to the weight limit of the last 12", that refers to lifting loads that apply compression to the main beam in its entirety. Winching does not apply this compressive load, and thus there is no reason that limitation for the last foot applies to winching.

I do understand the safety factors built into these types of equipment. However, the WLL is technically arbitrary, and not actually indicative of any specific level of stress or fatigue. Still, you are right that 1/4" chain is maybe cutting things a bit close for a lot of folks (and I wouldnt consider it if I wasnt keeping my winch). Grade 70 chain is made of heat-treated 1022 steel, which should have a yield strength (the point where it just starts to deform) of about 60% of its ultimate tensile strength. Being rated at 12,600 lbs MBS, that gives about 7,560lbs before any permanent deformation starts to occur (and still 12,600 before it actually breaks). That does make it potentially tougher than the hi-lift itself, but only marginally. That said, the hi-lift manual states that it takes 177lbs of force on the handle to generate 4660lbs through the mechanism. Thus, it would actually take 285lbs of force on the handle to approach this yield strength of the chain. While there was a time where I was lifting that much on a regular basis, I am certain I couldnt get close now :P .

More realistically, for any really hard hi-lift pulls, I'd use the snatch block to limit the strain on the entire system past the tree strap. The main risk, really, is that during a really hard pull I could potentially have the vehicle shift, placing a large shock load on the entire rigging. Though, not only does that risk apply, and must be mitigated, no matter what the recovery mechanism, but there is still a greater safety factor with the 1/4 chain than with the standard 5/16 winch cables.

As to using it as an eextension or directly between vehicles, I would be totally fine not using my 20' of chain when I already carry 110 ft of synthetic recovery straps that are not only stronger, but safer.

Lastly, while I don't necessarily disagree with you about winches probably needing 3/8 cable, most winches do in fact come with 5/16 cable. And, like I said, it has a WLL far, far less than the safety factor most folks like to tout for the rest of their equipment.

Good discussion :) .
Yeah the 12" on the HiLift was referring to lifting, not winching.

Most winch manufacturers just slap on the cheapest cable they can, that will still technically do the job. And these days they probably expect a good portion of the buyers to replace it with synthetic anyways. Still, anyone buying a winch should know what they're actually getting in terms of the equipment's capability. Be it the winch itself or the cable.
 
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Yeah the 12" on the HiLift was referring to lifting, not winching.

Most winch manufacturers just slap on the cheapest cable they can, that will still technically do the job. And these days they probably expect a good portion of the buyers to replace it with synthetic anyways. Still, anyone buying a winch should know what they're actually getting in terms of the equipment's capability. Be it the winch itself or the cable.
Oh, I absolutely can't argue with you there!
 

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I will probably be moving to Cannon AFB in the not-too-distant future, so we'll definitely have to make some weekend plans!
 

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Oh, I have been doing some more material calculations for the nose of the jack, and I am actually going to just drill a hole in the web very near its base. I will post pics and numbers once I get the exact locations figured out and drilled. But, big picture, it should allow the actual pulling chain to remain much closer to the jack beam, which should greatly minimize angular stresses.
 

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I will probably be moving to Cannon AFB in the not-too-distant future, so we'll definitely have to make some weekend plans!
Ha! Cool. You should really touch base with Walt Wagner at TAV LLC in Albuquerque. He does training at Kirtland. They did the build-out on my ZR2. https://www.tavllc.com/
Let me know when you get in-state. We won't exactly be next door, but some cool places to visit in between. Check out Mills Canyon. I'm going to try to get over there in the next few weeks. And if you've never been to Taos, you're in for a treat.
 
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I will never say, that a Hi-Lift jack won’t get you out of a jam, because it can. But when you are sliding to the edge of a off camber road, with your family in it. Or snowing hard and miles from home, or even stuck in a mud pit and miles from home you will wish for a winch. Hopefully you will never wheel like that by yourself! But let me ask this, you have your rig that is worth lots of money, you have $1500-2000. in tires on it and many other off-road in assessories. Why would you not spend the money for a winch, and the assurance it brings? I have never really understood the logic behind this kind of thinking? Benz.
 

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There are "how often do you use your winch" threads all over the internet filled with anecdotes supporting the logic behind going winchless :) . If I had a stock rig and $1500 to spend on mods, a winch wouldn't even cross my mind if it required a commercial aftermarket bumper to mount it.

I have the 1/4" chain now, but havent finished remaking the kit yet (my baby was born like 13 hours ago so it might be a few more days heh).
 
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Terex

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Keeping with the "all things winch" theme, I took my new Hi-lift off my truck today to see if it would store in the small drawer of my Decked system. With a mid-size Chevy Colorado and a short bed, the Decked system comes with one regular size Decked drawer and one narrow one. The narrow one is exactly the right length if you give the Hi-lift a little push. Keeping it in the drawer when I'm not in full overland mode keeps it out of the elements and corrosion free. 4TBYUuY4Qx+DOaGOduf0QA.jpg XRltdisnSd6wKcFjpEgbQQ.jpg ARWl9AMNSwa9TpF8nIScSg.jpg
 
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That's awesome! I am having to trust my neoprene cover to essentially protect the lubricant against dust and the sun, so the lube can protect the jack.
 

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I call my Hi-lift my diesel jack, keep it working with diesel! I’m on my 4 th. jack now, gave one to my brother, the other Two have been stolen. Both inside my rig, when stolen. Glad I have both the Hi- lift and my Warn winch. Each have there use! Benz.