So I made a couple videos, one is 2 minutes, one is 8 minutes, both are too large to upload here, I will work on it tho.
Testing the heater with the silicone flex ducting was a success. The heater came with two short aluminum duct pieces about a foot long each. I used one of these pieces to close off two of the four vent stubs on the face plate. I connected one 3 foot section of silicone duct to one open vent and a 12 foot section to the remaining vent. I connected the unit to one of my truck batteries via jumper cables and powered on the unit with the remote fob. I set the output to level 6, the highest setting. It took just a couple minutes to prime and startproducing heat from the open vent-ducts.
at 12 ft away from the heater, the laser thermometer read an average of about 110 F. The short 3 ft duct read about 130 F. The ducting near the vents averaged 140 F, and was too warm to touch with my bare hand for more than a few seconds. The ducting near the open ends of the two lengths could be easily held but were quite warm to the hand.
I ran the heater for about 20 minutes total this test. It had no issues. No smoke from the exhaust after initial start up. Ambient temp in the garage with the bay door open was about 60 F. So far all my testing has been using my truck batteries with my truck motor running. It’s a 2001 Silverado 2500 HD, diesel, so I ran the heater off my Aux battery, reading 13.9v in the cab dash battery gauge.
I will be ordering 2 sets of 4 x LiFePO4 (8 cells total) soon for my solar set up (will chat about that project in a different post). I anticipate powering this parking heater and a few other things off of that battery bank, with 2x 255KW residential panels mounted on the rig with charge controllers and a 12v inverter for 12v stuff like air compressor, lights, CPAP, etc. (anticipated Solar-thread for deets).
I only shot video, as mentioned, if I cannot figure how to load video here, I will take some still shots to upload.
I am almost ready to field test the heater in my Overlander XL roof tent. I plan to try to camp at Swan Falls, hopefully within the next week, so I will have pics and reports on how it does. I just need to sort out a temporary battery set up until my LiFePO4 cells arrive.
let me know if you guys have questions on things I can test. My plan is to heat three tent spaces when I go. The rtt /annex and an 8x8 ft awning tent.
My Son, who bought and set up a 2KW CDH in his full sized schooly /food truck up in Rexburg, ID thinks my 5KW All-in-one is gonna be too much heater for the tents. I don’t think so. My tents are not yet insulated and are probably too well ventilated to keep too much heat in. I’m betting the smaller (1.5 in) ducting will be enough to make 4-season camping comfortable.
If it isn’t up to the task, I’ve been thinking of ways to augment the tents... looking at a thermal liner for the rtt and/or lining the walls with some sort of reflectix type material to keep the heat in? I am hoping all that won’t be necessary, but it’s fun to play and experiment...
Im kind of wondering if heat rises, then heating the annex might also heat the tent above? That would be “cool” er...”warm”?You'd be surprised how much heat some tents can hold. My iKamper tends to hold just my body heat quite well, it's just cold when I get into my bag . The reason for me to get the heater would be for the annex room mostly... well and when I do sub 20F camping. To date I've been through one night under zero, but it required me to use the insulation quilt that my iKamper uses for the main tent. The annex room was an icebox without the little buddy though..
Is there a link to your videos yet?I was able to do some more testing/playing with the All-In-One Walmart heater. It is running well. I am still learning the control panel and programming. It is NOT intuitive. Thankfully, the FB group is SUPER helpful!
Based upon some good advice, I am ordering a few extra components to help keep the heater in good working order. From what I am reading and based on the experiences of others it’s good to have some extra fuel line, an extra temperature sensor, a fuel pump and a glow plug and removal tool for the glow plug on hand. None of these components are /appear to be prone to failure, but when they do fail the heater won’t work. In spirit of the old Military adage, “it’s better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it...”. I try to carry a few supplies to keep my lanterns and cook stoves in good working order as well, so this makes sense too.