Big Tuna Presents: Pegasus Rising | OVERLAND BOUND COMMUNITY

Big Tuna Presents: Pegasus Rising

  • Hi Guest, you may choose a LIGHT or DARK theme that works best for you with the "Style Chooser" button at the bottom left on this page!
  • HTML tutorial

adventure_is_necessary

Rocky Mountain Region Member Rep Kansas
Member

Member III

3,913
Emporia, KS
First Name
Lucas
Last Name
Antes
Member #

7082

Ham Callsign
KE0ZXA
Well, I finally got the IRO A-Arm I bought LAST FREAKIN' YEAR installed. I managed to also install the flex joint upgrade on it, so the A-Arm is completely rebuildable, and rubber bushing free! On a side note, trying to remove the old A-Arm ball joint with a box end wrench and brute strength, I managed to pop my back (which has been out for the last week). Sometimes you fix the Jeep, sometimes the Jeep fixes you! :tearsofjoy:



The old A-Arm bushings and ball joint were completely trashed. The bushings were wallowed out to the point that it had actually developed slop when braking or accelerating. The entire axle would not only shift, but also cause the entire rear end to slightly walk all over the road. I stopped driving the Jeep for a while, I waited for the weather to cool down enough to work on. I took on the task of adding a cooling fan to my Joying android headunit. Being an older model, it is based on the Rockchip PX5 CPU, which is notorious for overheating issues. A simple mod that can be done mostly in the shade of the garage! The saving grace is Joying's custom main board design, which has a decent cooling solution built in, just needs some air on it, especially in our summer.



Overall, the Jeep is driving much better with the new A-Arm in place. Now that the entire suspension has been effectively replaced, all clunks and noise has been eliminated. First time in a long time.

Now I can focus on what is wrong with the A/C again...
Before I sold my WJ, I was having the same symptoms you mention of the rear end slop. Ball joint was toast and the bushings on the A arm we're dry rotted and barely doing anything. Unfortunately I could not salvage the original A arm and replace the bushings like I originally planned and bought bushings for. Ended up getting an OEM replacement A arm and ball joint. Had to get out the cut wheel and hack off one end of the arm to get it to spin to hit the ball joint bolts with an impact. Talk about a PITA! Glad you got it sorted out! Makes all the difference and is more confident in turns and braking. Kinda scary bombing down the highway fully loaded and braking causes the shimmy or walking effect.
 

JimBill

Rank V
Member

Member III

1,963
San Benito County, CA, USA
First Name
James
Last Name
Madison
Member #

18747

I'll add to the WJ cooling drama.

I have a 03 WJ and converted the hydraulic fan setup to the dual fan 99 setup, and eventually running the ebay special 2 row radiator as well. I experienced all the install fun you did.
To not be long winded here is my present result:
-Using factory 5 blade and clutch fan as primary. It moves plenty of air, the issue is the fan clutch activation temps. If only we had heavy duty and severe duty fan clutch options like everyone else. Only the standard duty is offered. I bent the end of the spring in such a way to lengthen the overall spring, this forces clutch engagement to happen sooner by activating the valve sooner. Works like a champ. The Ford system works more due to the fan clutch activating sooner and moving air sooner, rather than more CFM.
- The electric fan is now secondary. When it is on it moves just enough air to be blowing cooler air on the fan clutch, messing with the signal. My needle would bounce all over when I ran this in auto and as the primary cooling, and I would see 210 often and under load fight to not climb higher. I have a switch with auto/on/off. I have run all summer with it off, and now it sits just for backup if the fan clutch fails (again).
-Agreed- the 99 transmission cooler is completely inadequate. The only time this summer I got freaked out on temp rise was waiting for a TJ to get unstuck on the rocks in front of me on a very very steep incline. I was holding it in gear just a little too much and the high load spiked the temp fast and high. I backed it out to flat, spun up a little RPM and mechanical fan flow, and cooled it down to normal. It held for the rest of the climb. I completely blame this heat spike on the transmission cooler.
-I blew it. When I first did the cooling mod I reused the hydraulic fan cooler for the transmission. It is much larger than the 99 trans cooler. I did not like using so much soft line so when I spotted a fairly clean 99 system at the pick and pull, I grabbed it and the hard lines. No leaks, no worries, nice and tight and clean factory looking setup, but went backwards in trans cooling capacity. I will be going back to the bigger cooler at some point.