2005 Sequoia Build

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jcx03

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los angeles
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joseph
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c
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Hi everyone! I'll be posting my build log here. I have posted bits of it else where, but consolidating and archiving it would be great! The first couple of posts will have my archived items.

=====================================

I bought a used 05 Sequoia almost 2 years ago now; in May 2019, and after having worked it for so long, I've decided to make a build log on it.

This is my first vehicle that I have ever personally worked on, and my first time experiencing offroad type builds. If anything, this is an Adventure Vehicle. A lot of the trips I plan to go on will be slightly off-grid, but nothing towards the expedition level where I'd travel 50+ miles just off road/ off grid....for the time being.

Hope ya'll enjoy it as I try and find / create information for everyone to use! I'll try and document it as well as I can. A lot of these projects have been inspired by mods that are available for other platforms, and mods others have done on the TSOR Facebook group page.

Lastly, I'll put some thoughts on the decisions I've made, and why I went that way. A lot of the decisions was made for a functional purpose, for when and if I needed it. Some of it,

INITIAL PURCHASE DECISION MAKING.

I purchased this vehicle Mid 2019 with the intention of making it a vehicle for road trips / camping. At this time, I was only interested in using it as a family hauler, as my family had sold the minivan around 2010, so we only had sedans. In those 9 years, we went on less road trips and it's something that I wish I had more in my life, even if it was only a handful of times a year.

Initially, I was looking at a 3 row 4runner with v8, but learned that it was a very rare spec, and the trunk space was basically non-existent. After looking around for a few weeks, I found this 05 Limited Sequoia, and jumped on it. After initial inspection, it appeared to be in good condition and the main parts of it were in working order, including the ENGINE, 4X4, TRANNY, AC, FRAME, SOUND (aftermarket with backup camera & android/apple car play), and all of the buttons, except the rear window. All the initial inspection learning was done from Youtube via Chrisfix, and any other Sequoia focused videos.

The Good
1. Frame condition is good
2. Aftermarket headunit, sound system, and backup camera.
3. Engine had good compression
4. 4HI/LO + Center diff activated.

The Bad
1. Missing fender molding (Driver side).
2. Liftgate did not work, but also sensor and trunk light didn't work (later I learned that it was missing a computer unit, and the trunk was the main issues with this vehicle in terms of electrical work)
3. AC dial rarely registers
4. Liftgate lights did not work
5. Driver / Passenger seat was starting to rip.

May 2019, after purchase.

View attachment 2602635

May 2019, two days after purchase.

Initial researched informed me that if the timing belt snaps, the whole engine is toast. My first maintenance jobs on this was to change the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, oils, including diff / transfer case. This was my first time doing this difficulty of job. My only previous experience was changing brakes, a starter in a CRV, and oil change. It was very challenging and it took me 3 days to do as I was missing some tools to brake some bolts. I also did some other jobs that were done on the way to this job.

Good References on Timing Belt DIY
The OEM Repair Manual.

Products used:
Aisin Kit
Mobil1 Synthetic Oil
Redline Gear Oil
Toyota Pink Coolant

Jobs Performed
Brake Fluid Flush
Dash Cam Install
Coolant Flush + Cap Replacement
Serpentine Belt
Timing Belt
Water Pump
Front Diff Fluid Drain + Fill
Rear Diff Fluid Drain + Fill
Transfercase Fluid Drain + Fill

View attachment 2602636 View attachment 2602637

Late May 2019, I took it to Zion to camp with friends.


It was a great time and my first time driving on non-pavement. I've never been "off road" or really on any forest roads. It was a bumpy ride, and I didn't know the concept of airing down. I thought "if has 4WD = CAN OFF ROAD".

This was also the first trip that I didn't book a site for. It was all informal, and was a dispersed site in the Forest. Loved the freedom to move sites as it was windy / raining the 2nd night.

At this time, the Sequoia is still stock, but I've been lurking the TSOR page a lot and seeing where I could go with this.

View attachment 2602647

Late June 2019


I had a misfire in cyl #8. After inspecting the coil, it had a partial crack in it. Decided to go on a budget, and went to the junkyard for a few coils. Replaced the coil in cyl 8, and also bought new spark plugs.

Used Parts
NGK Sparkplug - IFR6A11 or you can go with the Denso Sparkplug - SK20R11 // Both are recommended in the manual, but I went with NGK.
- Electrode gap: 1.0 to 1.1 mm (0.039 to 0.043 in.)
Coil Pack - #90919-02259

I decided to clean the carpet in the Sequoia. Was nasty A F.

View attachment 2602656

August 2019

Took my family to Sequoia National. Was awesome! We did encounter a bear, so that was a tad scary.



Early August 2019

One of the biggest concerns about bringing more than 5 people on a trip was storage. On one hand, you don't need too much gear, if you need to abandon the vehicle, but you still need some essentials. The current consideration is not "expedition" type trips where I need a get home bag. Most of the places I'd travel to will likely have others around and will be somewhat popular / destination spots. I'd want to go to places where there are less crowds, where there are some physical limitations to where you can go. I'm not very into rock crawling and I just want a vehicle that I can depend on to get to places and back.

The Thule skybox was purchased used for $200, and is one of the larger ones. I also have a plano box I had, but in order to have it in the vehicle, I had to remove a chair in the 3rd row, which reduces 2 seats. I have to make some considerations on how to use part of the roof, but also maximize the rear cargo area. I don't think I need to have a lot of gear, but having to dig through it was quite cumbersome. At this point in time, I also discovered that people had drawer systems in their rigs. This would be a gamechanger, but I don't really have much experiencing wood working. On top of that, wood is very heavy, but going with aluminum is expensive, but has a good strength:weight ratio.



Mid August 2019

On my first trip, I had a big cooler attached to the rear hitch of the the Sequoia. I didn't know much about exhaust heat, and the exhaust was pointed directly at my cooler. It melted part of it so I decided to angle the exhaust. I went to a random muffler shop I found, and they did this for $20.

Thoughts in 2021, as I write this: regret doing this, and wish I had went a different direction. I think today I'd consider cutting the muffler, and then angling the piping so it aims down or to the side. Unsure how this would be achieved, but it's something I'd consider.




Sept-Oct 2019

At this point, I decided that I wanted to install ATW3's 33s (285 70 17) onto my Sequoia. I wanted it to be capable of going up roads with confidence, and also going snowboarding without the need of tire chains most of the time. We go snowboarding multiple times during the winter and chains were required at times. Safety was a huge factor in going towards this route as in my previous SUV (AWD 06 CRV), I slid on ice roads in Mammoth thinking "AWD = TRACTION". I also wanted to experience something new, learn more about working on cars, & have the ability to take on new challenges with the Sequoia.

I decided to go with a modes and economical lift kit, and also change the LBJs after reading the horrors of its failure.

Thoughts in 2021: I wish I went with something better for the front such as OME or DOBINSONS.

Parts Used

FRONT SUSPENSION

Bilstein 5100s on Bottom Notch with OME 2885 in the FRONT.
- Also had to use Energy Suspension Coil Isolator to seat the new coil for the front.
TOYOTA OEM LBJS.
SPIDERTRAX 1.25" WHEEL SPACERS.

REAR SUSPENSION

OME 60024L with OME 2865 in the REAR
- Purchased additional washers at Home Depot for the shock mount.
FREEDOM OFF ROAD UCA
- Fair price. Their CS is pretty good at responding, but I wish their information was more complete. The nut they use is non-standard and can't even be purchased at McCasterCarr.
- Part is IMPORTED.

 

jcx03

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Contributor III

289
los angeles
First Name
joseph
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c
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Oct 2019

Finally finished the suspension upgrades, and got the tires mounted. Looks awesome. However, the alignment couldn't be finished due bad LCA lower bushings.

I also installed a light bar + ditch lights + a rear diff breather. I decided to go all the way to the top of the engine bay. I realize it's a long route, but I had to purchase a long strip of fuel line anyways. The bumper cover was removed so I could drill through the actual bumper. then I spray painted it to try and protect it.

Lastly, I installed a random net I found on Amazon. Works fairly well, but the net isn't tight enough. It works fine for people under 5' 10".

Parts Used for Lights
Nilight Ditch Lights
Hood Brackets (Crappy), I suggest these instead.
- If you use the GSPOWER ones, make sure to install them with help. These bolt up to the hood hinge via 2 bolts each side and someone should hold the hood while it's being installed.
Switch / Wiring Harness for Lights
Some random brand Light Bar. I'd post the link, but it sucks.

Misc Parts
Net

Diff Breahter Relocation Parts
Fuel Line 5/16" ID
Axle Plug - 90404-51319
Breather - 90930-03136
Hose Clamps - 5/16" - 7/8" (get a kit from HF or go to a parts store for some good ones).

Thoughts in 2021: Wish I went with a diff breather kit as it looks janky, but it works and I saved a few bucks so not much regret.




Sept 2019

Nothing special, but I got an ARB awning, and went to Big Sur. It's about a 40 minute drive to this point from the highway and it was all "off road" per se. Was a great ride as I aired down and used the newly installed lights. Also installed WeatherTech window deflectors - they're great for cracking the window slightly open for some air flow. I had also started prototyping an aluminum roof rack.

Thoughts on the roof rack in 2021:While I was able to save $300 from the cost of what it was to get the roof rack from Sherpa, their roof rack is designed better and looks better. I definitely recommend checking them out during their BF sales as it's around $1000 USD shipped.

Airing down was something else with the ARB tire deflator. The instructions were a tad confusing, and I definitely recommend trying it out at home before using it in the field - this should really apply to any new piece of equipment.

The last piece of this whole thing was a tire inflator. I mistakenly opted for the Viair 85P, and should have gone with the 88P. It has a higher cycle time, and attaches directly to the battery, instead of the 12V plugs. The 85P was able to get me up to 25-28PSI, which isn't the best, but got me home for now.

While at Big Sur, I spotted an imported LandCruiser and was able to speak to the owners. They were from Sweden and the LC was imported from Saudi Arabia due to the specific spec they wanted. It was truly a sight to see. They were traveling the world in the LC and were here on a travel permit with the vehicle.

Big Sur was beautiful!

 

jcx03

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los angeles
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joseph
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c
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Sept 2019 Continued.

For some reason, I decided to make my own roof rack. I'd go more into this project, but I'll save you the trouble, and recommend that you get the Sherpa rack during Black Friday, and you'll save a bunch of trouble & money. I saved $300 DIY after coat, but I'm not 100% satisfied with it at the end. You can see more photos of it later.

8020 bars can be found at a great price via tnutz.com, but also 1/4"-20 carriage bolts do NOT fit the 1020 bars unless you grind off some of the carriage head.
Lastly, 1/4-20 is not compatible with M6-1.0 in terms of thread. The M6-1.0 has more threads and will make the 1/4-20 thread unusable after.

When selecting your own bars, make sure to just stay consistent with the thread. I prefer metric over standard as there are more lengths to cover, but unfortunately, the sized hardware for these things are more readily available in 1/4"-20, even from McMaster-Carr.

Look at the suggested hardware as I've done a lot of research on this.

Suggested Hardware to go into the Rails // All of these use 1/4"-20, so please use those bolts.
Drop in Nut with Stud via MCC // SAME PART VIA TNUTZ.COM
Drop in with Ball
Economy T-Nut

8020 Bars Hardware
tnutz.com

M6-1.0 x 25 for the side mounts.

Thoughts on the roof rack in 2021:While I was able to save $300 from the cost of what it was to get the roof rack from Sherpa, their roof rack is designed better and looks better. I definitely recommend checking them out during their BF sales as it's around $1000 USD shipped.



Oct 2019

At this time, my axle boots decided to start tearing up. There are two routes to go for this, and I opted to try the orange boots. In general, it's a very messy and dirty job. You need a vice, snap ring pliers, and a few other tools, but nothing special or specific. Link to some help via FB.

Also worked on the eBrakes. This was not fun, and it took forever to get adjusted and properly seated. A bunch of clamps are required.

Lastly, I installed poly bushings into the LCA I had and don't recommend them. They squeak way too much unless you install a zerk and keep greasing them.

Used Parts
Inner CV Axle Boots - Price has raised since I purchased in Oct 2019. Was $55each before shipping,
Mobil1 Synthetic Grease - Grease for the boots.
Worm Drives - They were used instead of the generic clamp ones that are used normally.

Alternative Parts
Inner CV Axle Boots- These are emphi.
Outer CV boots - BECK/ARNLEY 1032818 or go OEM



Early Jan 2020

For the longest time, I wanted the GOBI LADDER for the rear of my Sequoia. However, I disliked that I had to have the hatch closed in order to utilize it. I decided to go with a custom fab one on the side. It cost $350 after coat. It's fairly well made, but I wish I made the lower end (the first step that is flat bar) more outward of the vehicle so I have more space to step. I usually step on the tire first, and use the ladder to pull myself up, so it isn't a big deal.

Attached is also a photo of how the bottom of the ladder mounts. It's also drilled through the roof rack with lock nuts, etc.

We also went to Joshua Tree and went to the BLM land. It was OKAY. I'm not so sure how I feel about just open flatland.




May 2020

Well, I went on an international trip for about a month, and was focused on work so I didn't have time to do anything or go out on top of COVID and all those restrictions.

After some travel restrictions were lifted, I went out to Nevada for some camping / hiking. I borrowed the RTT and it was my first time ever using it. Really cool piece, but I didn't enjoy deploying it, or putting it away. Also used those traction boards to level the vehicle...perhaps this is the only use I'll ever get out of them, haha.

 

jcx03

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Contributor III

289
los angeles
First Name
joseph
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c
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23877

June 2020

Finally found a skid plate at the junkyard. Didn't spring for an aftermarket one yet unfortunately!



Also found this Ram laptop holder on Offerup for $30. I got the iPad mount for $33 separately, and it all worked out!

Tablet Holder Link // compatible with iPad Pro 11 inch. GPS module needed if WiFi only iPad, such as Garmin GLO 2



August 2020

The AC wasn't working optimally, and I found that the A/C Condenser Fan Assembly was not spinning at full speed. I decided to replace it and also change the radiator since I didn't know when it was last changed. I did do a coolant flush when I got it, but doing this extra maintenance gives peace of mind. Part of the peace of mind comes from the fact that the transmission oil passes through the bottom of the radiator and if it failed, there's potential for the famous toyota pink milkshake.

While doing this type of coolant maintenance, I decided to prevent some of the major failures of the cooling system the 2UZ-FE. The t-fitting corrodes over time and can break causing coolant to go all over the place. And the PVC valve can be jammed up with carbon.

Some notes on the PVC Valve - It's easy to replace. Just make sure it's hand tight. I couldn't find any torque spec on it, but you only have room for a wrench there. It has some red dry loctite material on it and it's attaching to aluminum, so don't go too tight - hand tight, and then a little bit more should be fine!

No photos, but I also greased the zerks on the joints and UCA with red moly.

Reference
A good tutorial for the PVC Valve.
How a PVC Valve/System Works

Parts Used
TYC AC Condenser Fan Assembly TYC 610790
DENSO 2210518
PVC Valve - #12204-50030
T Fitting for Heater Hose - 87248-60460




August 2020

After a lot of time with work from home, but also getting cabin fever, we made some time to go to Sequoia again, but this time we went to a dispersed site. I was also able to use my drawer system that I made in an afternoon (that I later took apart because I hated it, and it was too big / heavy).

Our site was alrite, because the better one was already taken (with the view and where the car is), but I didn't mind. Was great being surrounded by the great outdoors.

I also got a Whynter 45Quart for really cheap, and ran it off the rear 12V on the sequoia. It killed the battery since my battery was really low to begin with. Good thing I carry a Audew lithium battery jumper. The fridge was a game changer. No more ice, and having to dump water, etc.



\


Sept 2020

The battery finally gave out and would die when parked overnight. I decided to get a Duracell Group 31 from Sam's Club. They ran a special where you get the membership for free basically, so I went for it.

The first one died after 2 days, so I got a replacement after some hassle. Their policy / CS allowed me to return the battery instead of going for an exchange which I wanted.

It fits in the stock location with the stock bracket (thought it's being overworked). The battery basket has to be cut on one edge in order to fit it.



Mid Sept 2020

And now, I finally get to install my BFF bumpers & sliders. It's been something I've been wanting to try for a long time. I often reflect about how I grew up, and how I didn't grow up - things I didn't experience, and traditionally, I wouldn't have ever made this type of purchase or go down this road. But after saving my pennies, I decided to spring for it and get them.

For a long time, I was thinking about going the DIY path (Coastal Bumper) ,but after doing the math and hiring a welder, it was about the same for the front, and just didn't look as good. And for the rear - there was no other option on the market.

Billy and his team were amazing. They were really friendly and explained a bunch to me about how everything worked, and some metal working tips. I did this all in one day, and it was quite the adventure getting it done.

I don't have photos, but eventually I got the sliders powdercoated (bolt on option), and I spray painted the portion that was welded to the frame.

 

jcx03

Rank II
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Contributor III

289
los angeles
First Name
joseph
Last Name
c
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23877

Sept 2020 to Nov 2020

With the dual swingout, I wanted to increase the convenience of deploying camp, and have things mounted. The little table was going to help with this setup, but also, I had this big space on the left swingout to make something.

I'm not an engineer by trade, and never really worked with fabrication, but I decided to give it a try anyways. The considerations I made were with building a possible bike rack adapter, similar to the one that Summit Cruisers Jr made via expeditionportal.



I wanted a place to store a pelican box, and a cooler. Looking back, I wish I made some changes to how this was all constructed in order to save on cost, but also make the box mount better (everything is strapped down) & locked, but it felt rewarding making the part from start to finish, rather than buying it. Well, also there wasn't really an option for buying this either as BFF didn't offer it (to my knowledge).

At this time, I still didn't completely think about the mounting mechanism for the bike carrier as I had continued to use my Thule bike carrier.

Thoughts in 2021,if I could back, I should have designed a trailer hitch installed the cooler/pelican carrier. I also wish I didn't make the bottom part of the box, like a triangle. Also discovered Dissent Offroad and simply - WOW.

View attachment 2609147
 

jcx03

Rank II
Member

Contributor III

289
los angeles
First Name
joseph
Last Name
c
Member #

23877

Dash Mount System // ONGOING. NOT COMPLETE.

For a long time now, I've been wanting a way to mount my phone better on my dash. I purchased the windshield suction mount ram mount for my phone, and while it's good, it sometimes falls, and takes up a lot of space visually.

1620640722249.png
You can see the ram mount on the windshield here

There's a lot of support for popular / new vehicles, and for a long time, I decided to just settle and live with the current mount. Companies such as Rago make additional mounts that you can attach RAM attachments onto.

However, one of the bigger issues with the 1st gen tundra/sequoia is that the dash is one piece. On newer vehicles, they use multiple pieces to construct the dash, so if you break one piece, it's a lot more forgiving.

1620640739118.png

Initially, the idea was to make a complete 3D printed one with double sided adhesive. After some calculations, the print time, chance of failure, and also the amount of material would be too much - but also the appearance wouldn't be as good. Some people also showed me their DIY solutions on 1ST GEN TUNDRA group on FB. Link here, and I realized that it had to be drilled through in order to create a solid mount.

1620640746076.png 1620640751885.png

So I started working on a design. The first thing to do was to mock up a general idea. Then after that, we had to get data on the dash in order to create proper spacers.

I used a 3D scanner to get the dash. There are some spots that were hard to capture, but that's because of how the scanner captures data & the fact that the dash is one piece, and doesn't have features to help continue the scan.



Then I made a quick mock up based on a design I thought would be smart, but I ended up scrapping it. The right shows a general approach to how it would mount. Screws, custom spacer, dash, custom spacer, nylon lock nut. It will also mount 1mm above the dash with the spacers, so it doesn't sit on the dash itself.




Then after printing the initial, I had to increase the ram mount mounting surfaces after realizing mine was too small, and adding a radius so it doesn't stab the dash later.



Added additional holes for potential mods / add ons. Unsure if it's too close to the bending radius. I have to check with fab, but it probably is. Hole for ram mount was too precise, so I had to expand it in the next version.



Working version 1 - Too close to front lip. My initial measurement of the angle wasn't good, so I have to adjust the curve.



The floor was used as a reference of 0*, and then this was taken as a reference relative for the car dash so I can get a near to true 0* measurement for the top of the mount.



Next version, added more angle / material in the back of the part to lift it and adjusted the curves of so I can move it up more.



At this point, I think it's just about ready to go. Next thing to do is to make a template, and do a test install after I get one fab'd up.

I'll add dates later to this, as I'd like to archive that :)

4/8/21 UPDATE

Made some progress on the dash mount project.

Refined the curvature of the sides to have a better fitment with the dash.

Next, I need to adjust the spacers so that they're flush and have a strong mounting surface area with the dash itself to maximize clamping force with the nuts and such.

Currently, the goal is to make this out of 3.0mm or 1/8" mild steel. Can't wait to get the radio set up & the new phone mount!

Current Plan for Accessories
- RAM Mount phone mount
- Handheld radio holder
- GMRS Radio holder
- MAYBE, a custom phone holder (cup style) for the Passenger so they can just put their phone down, but it won't actually hold onto the phone.

1620640837952.png 1620640843734.png

4/15/21 UPDATE

1620640862554.png 1620640868095.png

1620640879285.png

I've also finished the dash mount and sent it for cutting in 3.0mm or 1/8" steel. Very excited for this as it's been a long time coming.

Going to have to get another dash to test it out or just go for it and pay for it later .

1620640886657.png 1620640893860.png

4/28/21 UPDATE

I made a template for install. It aligns to where the dash starts changing shape for the cluster. Then you just need to take it down after alignment to that corner, and tape it down to the dash because it will be a little flexible due to being 3D printed and trying to save on material x print time.

Here's a good production sample of the dash mount. Much excite!! Also made a 3D printed template for aligning.

1620640913225.png


This is where it'll go. Will be testing it this weekend!

 
Last edited:

jcx03

Rank II
Member

Contributor III

289
los angeles
First Name
joseph
Last Name
c
Member #

23877

Fire Extinguisher Bracket Project // COMPLETE MARCH 26 2021

As I dive more into this, the more I realize how important practicing safety is. I have never experienced anything near a dangerous fire but have seen a car on fire on the side of the road, and even saw a vehicle that caught on fire, that was extinguished at Home Depot. It was a sign for me to started on this project.




Initially, I tried to skip doing this project by buying a bracket that will hold the fire ext, but they were either too expensive, or it didn't exist via velcro. Most of the ones I found on Amazon were for SXSs and were bar mounted so the velcro straps horizontally. This would have worked, but if I get a cloth molle, I'd need a vertical strap. Another issue I found is that it had too many straps (3), or it didn't support the circumference of the fire extinguisher I was getting (12"). This is best cloth mount I found, but it didn't come with vertical straps, and I wanted the fire ext to be placed vertically so I have quick access to it. Then when I received the fire ext, I didn't realize it came with a wall mount bracket, and I just decided to make my own.



I was gifted a molle panel for the back of the seat, and it's made of a plastic polymer, so I had it scanned in. I only needed a portion of it, as this is the portion that covers the bracket that was included with the fire extinguisher. If the bracket isn't sufficient to hold the fire ext while the vehicle is moving, I also have long velcro ties to help strap it in that will easily go through the molle.






After remaking the molle, the bracket included with the fire ext was remade for reference to the mounting points.



As I write this, the part is being printed. After I make sure it's good to go, I'll be adjusting it for some visual appeal like rounding out the holes. for the nuts etc.

====

Just got it printed & went to HD for some bolts & nuts. Didn't have the ones I wanted to use, but no biggy, at least the size & style is similar.



Since the fire ext is about 5lbs total, it tilted a little & I need to secure it. I had a strap to add to the molle panel for the time being. I am getting some high-vis ones to replace the strap. I'm going to go with Wrap-It Orange cinch Straps. They have a SS buckle and are velcro.



Just reprinted it with some modifications. It's a bit taller now so that it covers the nut and has a better slot for the nut itself.

View attachment 2617709



Parts Lists
Molle Panel for Seat
Fire Extinguisher
- A special note on the fire extinguisher. This was the most affordable x most compact I could without multiplying how much it would cost.
- It is also ABC rated, and not just BC. Another I considered is KID21006287MTL.

Fixtures Used
94645A101
97654A211

PAINT FIXES // Mar 2021

Overtime, some rust has started to slowly accumulate on the driver side, rear passenger door, along the C pillar.
Not being a body repair specialist, I just got a dupli-color pen and went at it.

It was pretty easy. First I sprayed rust reformer on it. Then I went to the pen. The tip of the pen is an abrasive material like sandpaper. You scratch away the rust, and then use the brush to fill it. Then follow up with the clear coat.

The goal wasn't to make it look amazing - the rig has a lot of dings and such, but this will help the rust from spreading & covering the bare metal...for now.

BEFORE



AFTER



Misc Installs on the Roof Rack // Late March 2021

Some things I installed on the roof rack so far are:

Rigid Tool Boxes
Pelican BX85S (was on sale)
Waterport
ARB Awning (sold)
OVS 270 Awning Passenger Side.

I'll be updating the post with more information on how I mounted it and such, but this previous week, I just installed the OVS awning and I'm really happy with it. For the size x price + discount I got on it, I'm very happy. It took a little while to get the hardware / bolts worked out, but here are some specs if you need it.

Pelican BX85S with RFMT001SC
- SS 1/4-20" x 0.5 inch // For some reason, the ZINC PLATED ones are about 2x more expensive than SS.
- M7 Washers 7.4 mm ID, 14 mm OD // I decided to use M7 washers so there's a bigger surface area touching the plate. It was better than just the regular M6 washers.
- Economy Tnutz 1/4-20"
- The supplied hardware isn't deep enough to support the box in the 1020 bars, but also the just provide you nuts, and they're too big to be used with the 1020 bars.
- I believe the plate is 1/8inch thick.

To attach Roof Saddle by Pelican x Frontrunner to 1020 bars.
Ahf4gDF.jpg



WaterPort with WaterPort's Roof Rack Mount
- SS 1/4-20" x 0.5 inch // For some reason, the ZINC PLATED ones are about 2x more expensive than SS.
- M7 Washers 7.4 mm ID, 14 mm OD // I decided to use M7 washers so there's a bigger surface area touching the plate. It was better than just the regular M6 washers
- There is no supplied hardware for this.

In order to mount the WaterPort bracket to the Roof Rack Bracket / Mount, you need to attach the two brackets.
- SS 1/4-20" x 3/4 inch
- Zinc 1/4-20" Nylon Lock Nut // Enough depth for the two plates and for the nylon to lock. I also used the M7 Washers before the bolt.

To attach WaterPort Bracket to 1020 bars with Economy TNutz .
0wJOgmv.jpg



To attach WaterPort to WaterPort Bracket.
EMUQ5uF.jpg



OVS 270 Awning Passenger Side
- 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 5/8" Long
- M7 Washers 7.4 mm ID, 14 mm OD
- Economy Tnutz 1/4-20"

To attach OVS 270 awning to 1020 bars.
McZ0htr.jpg
 
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Custom Engine Bay Brackets for ARB Compressor + Electrical Panel // STARTED MARCH 17 2021

The short version is that no one makes an ARB compressor panel for the 1st gen. There's a lot of room in the engine bay, at the passenger side near the firewall / the airbox.
Some versions do not have the large ABS module so there's A LOT of room to work with. In that corner of the engine bay, many people put a 2nd battery there.

Richard Price in the 1stgen tundra group on FB was able to fab up a custom bracket that is compatible with the ABS module & also relocate the power steering res. I currently do not have plans to add a 2nd battery, so I'll be working on a bracket that will hover over the ABS module....if it fits there.

The 2nd part of this project, is that I need some room to put some electrical components and other things. Of course, no one makes / sells a bracket....but Sal Rosal came up with a really good one. Photos below by Sal via Sequoia Forum



For now, I've started to get a scan of the part of the engine bay that I need. I would have done more, but my laptop ran out of juice & it was getting cold.



3/28/21 UPDATE
Messaged Richard but didn't get a response unfortunately. I'll be pursuing this on my own then ‍♂. I don't think I would have been able to use his tray in any case because I have this additional module next to the PS res that the 1st gen tundra doesn't have (AFAIK). I realized this when I saw Geoffrey install it on his video (link to video, Blue Square in photo below indicates where the additional module is).

xj81WSb.png



For the time being, I'll be making a mock up that works, and then scanning that in to finalize the design and layout. I think this will be an easier path rather than scanning in, then reverse engineering the bay, then making a mount. If I have a mount that works, then I can have it placed inside the bay, and then make final adjustments with only having to reverse engineer some of the engine bay.
 
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This post contains misc finished projects / updates

Battery Update // 04.01.21

The factory L bolt is too short. It's about 8 inches long and it's barely fitting the group 31 with factory battery retention bracket. I decided to get a 10 inch one from McMaster-Carr. Link to part. I should have gotten a "J" hook such as this part.

This is after the bending of the L bolt.
a814c62e5401acef7bc4bd639ddf698e.jpg


I had to cut the factory tray in order to fit the group 31 Duracell battery on one edge. I found a tray from McMaster-Carr that fits in the engine bay, but it doesn't have the inserts that the original tray has in order to stay put. Even though the battery hold down is tight, the tray helps keep it in place with those stubs. Link to part. I ended up not using the metal tray I purchased. The new bolt also clears the hood just fine as well.

There's potential to chop this into a battery tray for the abs module area as it's roughly the size of a group 31 and thick / sturdy enough despite being stamped metal. Unfortunately, I can't do that as I have an extra module. I may be inclined to go with a group 24 for a 2nd battery, or exploring lithium batteries stored in the 3rd row plastic molding on the passenger side. But these are just thoughts that I'll have to consider as I build out more electrical. I think all that's left for this portion is to get a new battery terminal so it isn't a jumbled mess, but this is something I need to think about later.

QwpeywE.png


Door / Fender Replacement! // 04.01.21

ttPejqX.jpg


I've had damage on my fender where it lines up with the driver door. After 10+ months of searching, I found a gold replacement off an 01-04 gold sequoia. The part # for the door is the same, but the fender was different. I went ahead and went and bought it because it looks identical. Turns out it's only off by 2 extra bolts (pointed to in red arrows below). Nothing zip ties can't fix, of course.

Difference between the 01 to 04 and 05+ Fender
a44QBkk.jpg



The only things left to swap over is the exterior door molding, my original door lock (so my key works) the sticker with the VIN, my door check (that I replaced with a new one so I want that ) and the window assembly. The new used door has a weaker and more worn power window motor. I also had tint on my window so I'll be wanting that so I don't have to pay for it. This will have to wait for another day as it's basically taking all the parts from my old door and installing into the new used one.


uUMEjDL.png


The Headrest Nobody Wants // 04.08.21

Finally found a newer seat of 3rd chairs with the center headrest. Sometimes I have 8 people in the vehicle, and the center headrest is the rarest of the rare. I'm unsure if it came standard with the vehicle or if everyone just threw it away, but I haven't been able to find one at the junkyard, offerup, CL, or Marketplace for 1.5 years. I found one on Ebay for $70 but that's outrageous. I finally found it on Offerup, including the seats for $60, and went for it. The seats were in better condition than mine, and had some plastic bits that weren't broken.

AJZAG8q.jpg


PROJECT END LINK DISCONNECTS // 4.10.21

Made from 1/2-20 threaded rod at a B7 rating. Just need bushings, and we're good to go.

Here's the parts list & some info! MAKE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Bushings: ENERGY SUSPENSION 9.8103r
Washers: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/98023A033
Nuts: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/94895A825
HEIM JOINTS: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/2458K36
SS WING NUTS: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/92001A333
ROD: https://www.mcmaster.com/98957A158/
Quick Disconnects: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/R2460.html
RED LOCTITE.

Here's some last bit of info on every part.
  • BUILDING TIPS: Use red loctite on everything. There's no reason to cheap out! Tighten everything down with your longest wrench.
  • BUSHINGS will need to make bigger as well. ID is 3/8" & I built this all on 1/2".
  • WING NUTS are welded onto nuts to remove and tighten on trail. make sure to tighten it down. I may even use a lock washer for this actually.
  • SWAY BAR DRILLING: You'll have to also drill into the sway bar to make it bigger. It's about a 10mm ID hole for the sway bar, and you need 12.7mm (or 1/2").
  • ROD LENGTH: Add 6.5" to your lift amount & you'll have the length needed. The thread length of the heim joint is 1.5" so you have 7.5" left of rod to use for adjustment.
    • I believe the OEM rod is 6.5" and 6" center to center.
    • The rod length I chose is 9"
Yes, you can totally go with 3/8", but I was like "welp I only live once, so I might as well make sure I don't die from this and make it thicker".

l2tXB4E.jpg


Much hype. Just drilled the bushing ID to 1/2".

I also found Siberian Bushings, with 13mm ID (which is more than 1/2" by 0.3mm, so these are perfect.

7CJ66QN.jpg



SMALL UPDATE // 04.14.21

Lastly, I finally got a new bike rack. It's a Kuat system, . It will have to do until I modify the box on the left swing out to have a 2 inch receiver. This will help with clearance, but also help with the annoyance of trying to access the trunk and all.

xhwuPjd.jpg


Small Engine Bay Mod // 04.14.21

Added a Harbor Freight magnetic tray. Will help with projects when I need to put things down!.

Q0pkYnS.jpg



Kuat Bike Rack FTW // 04.15.21

This is how it all looks set up. Unfortunately, haven't had the chance to go out too much other than day trips with the family. My niece and mom enjoy biking so it'll have to be urban bike routes and such. But I am planning a West coast drive up to Oregon in May & will be borrowing a RTT.

I actually don't really bike - I use an electric longboard. It's just a lot easier to use when running / walking my dog during these trips.

If anyone is considering the kuat I'd spring for it over the Thule or Yakima systems. It's way more sturdy & thought out. There's also 1up bikes.

Ignore the white - it's developer spray that comes off.

3D2EWSp.jpg


Bug Deflector // 04.15.21

I was able to find a set of rear taillight guards & the bug deflector. Unfortunately, the bug deflector was missing a clip, so I had to remake it.

ZQGeOmN.png
5b642976f41c8166303a534b0dd8d079.png


gH6r979.jpg


Then I discovered that the OEM clip falls off easily (prob due to age) so I'm going to reprint a regular one.

If anyone is interested in looking at them attach / detach onto the hood -

OEM:

3D PRINTED:

Finally, this is it installed. Unsure how I feel about it. I'll have to see after I sell the hilift jack (I think it's too dangerous and prefer to use bottle).

cWLseMw.jpg



UPDATE ON ENGINE BRACKETS // 04.15.21

Mocking up locations for this right now. Currently, with the klein digital level (in place of the actual air port) , it clears the hood right above the ABS module.

I'm still considering if I should just put it above the intake manifold since there's so much room there....

24iR2gy.jpg
 

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Sunglasses 8 Gang Switch Holder Project // Ongoing

Sunglasses 8Gang Mount


Originally, I found on the T100 page, that someone had made a mount for a few rocker switches for the sunglasses holder in the Tundra 1st gen. This one looked like an older model, but I decided to try and create a similar one for mine.

I've hated the rocker switch panel that came stock with the Sequoia since day 1 of installing lights. It's out of reach, but also it sometimes gets pressed by random things.

Version 1 // Late January

I originally started this around early January, but didn't get to this stage until late January.

I decided to change this due to the cost of rockers + the size of it. The number of wires that I had to run was way too thick combined, so I decided against this.

LERCBdr.jpg


8emwUZL.jpg



Version 2 // Early March

Overall, the idea was there, but it had some fitment issues with latching onto the topside of the sunglasses mount. It worked, but was not perfect.

I decided to scan it in, and do it properly.


TfpE1Fu.jpg



Version 3


Finally had some time to work on the mount. Going to be 3D printing a prototype today, and then seeing how it fits up.

I wanted to make sure it mates perfectly with the top half of the sunglasses holding case (pictured in blue in 2nd image).

Finishing this up will be a bulk of the work now. Sanding it down to make sure that the texture is nice and smooth.

1619060014679.png
1619060028588.png



Update // 04.28.21

Printed out version 3, and it was good, but not perfect. Exterior edges needed some adjustment.

IpsAUEE.jpg
1zVkonQ.jpg



Here's a version 4 with some adjustment.

xylH8pu.png



It's good, but NOT good enough. These snaps indicated in blue (below), are horrifically weak when 3D printed. With a small amount of force, they pulled apart and snapped off the part - making a 14 hour print basically useless. Where the red arrow is above, I'll be adding a 3D printed clamp. This will help with holding it to the sunglasses holder.

1619673108775.png


Update // 05.04.21

Here is basically the finalized version of it. I decided to print it upside down, so that the mounting parts are pristine on top.

The bottom side of it is made on top of supports, so the the surface finish isn't great. I'll have to go at it with a die grinder & sand it down then spray paint it.

The fit is perfect. Only took 10 prototypes @ 14 hour prints & $40 worth of filament.

NKNYRKq.jpg
p2BFw3V.jpg


7kceAJF.jpg
rQvqWw6.jpg
 

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Compressor Mount Update // 05.09.21

Just got some parts mocked up & the scan data finalized.. Trying to finalize it ASAP. Just need to make some adjustments. Made of 1/8th steel. Also considering aluminum since steel is $$$ atm.

Ended up choosing to put it above the PS res, with a manifold above the ABS module.

1620549686358.png
1620549723685.png
 
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Skid Plate Update // 05.10.21

Spent the weekend scanning part of the undercarriage. Need to take some more time working on the cat side + the tranny support & sections of the oil pan.

Also did an oil change. But no photos of that since it isn't exciting .

1620642348978.png
 
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Compressor Mount Update // 05.11.21


  • Added a bigger hole for the side bracket.
  • Changed the rear bracket dimension so the bolt is easier to access
  • Increased viair bracket surface mating.
  • Changed the side bolt hole style to make it little easier to assemble.
8 Gang Switch Holder Update // 05.11.21


  • Reprinted with a slightly better finish
  • Using the new custom washers
It feels really firm now and doesn't feel like it will just fall apart.

Custom Electrical Fuse Panel Bracket Update // 05.11.21

 
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SO let me ask, do you want to sell any of the items your making? I sure could use some of them!
I'd love to recoup my costs, but unsure if I'd pursue this commercially but here are the quotes I got.

8gang sunglasses holder, as seen $45 + ship
8gang sunglasses holder, HP fusion $80+ship

Compressor mount, raw $150+ship
Electrical mount, raw $150+ship

Dash mount with 2 brackets, and 3d printed custom washers & install bracket, raw $100+ship

Would be plug & play, and everything has a moq of 10 .

Everything would be made in California.
 
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SO let me ask, do you want to sell any of the items your making? I sure could use some of them!
I'd love to recoup my costs, but unsure if I'd pursue this commercially but here are the quotes I got.

8gang sunglasses holder, as seen $45 + ship
8gang sunglasses holder, HP fusion $80+ship

Compressor mount, raw $150+ship
Electrical mount, raw $150+ship

Dash mount with 2 brackets, and 3d printed custom washers & install bracket, raw $100+ship

Would be plug & play, and everything has a moq of 10 .

Everything would be made in California.
To add to this, coating with bk01 (slight texture semi gloss blk), would be $10-20 each with a $150 job minimum.
 
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